Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik
- Trevor Lawrence
- Aug 29
- 15 min read
Updated: Sep 16
Whether you come for history or fantasy, how you meet Dubrovnik is up to you. It’s the rare destination that feels borrowed from another time—a medieval, storybook time capsule that won’t stop tugging at your inner child’s sleeve.
I spent the bus ride from Split to Dubrovnik feeling smug. I wasn’t about to go swoony over a city just because it starred in the most-watched fantasy show on earth. Not me. No sir. Meanwhile, the real Dubrovnik—dripping with history—sat at the hinge of the realest of real empires: Byzantine, Venetian, Ottoman, and the hugely-chinned Habsburgs!
It hosted Napoleon, weathered Rome’s shadow, had the third-biggest navy in Europe (!), and grew into a merchant republic carved from awesome arrogance out of sea-beaten cliffs. History! Yes, please! Then we arrived. That damned theme music began tinkling in the back of my mind. My first thought: If I don’t immediately find the spot where Prince Oberyn fought the Mountain, I’m throwing myself over these walls and into the Adriatic.
Sigh.
Ugh. I’ll just say it. I’m a sucker for anything that looks remotely like a castle. Heck, just give me a few ramparts and I’m g2g. Alas, thank God for my wife. She’s the perfect counter-balance. She works fiber and leafy greens into our flavor-questing and museum tickets into our urban wanderings. Ah, but the plot twist. A week earlier, wedged in an Honest Greens bathroom in Portugal, we found ourselves staring down at the blue plus sign on a pregnancy test. We hugged. We celebrated. We hit the road again, overwhelmed but bursting with excitement.
To Southern Croatia for the perfect Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik… where morning sickness promptly tracked us down.
Now, look. When your normally steadfast Travel Rock stumbles, you circle the wagons and defend the nest. (What even are those words?) The last thing you do is load her up with a bulk purchase of ramen noodles (because that’s the only thing she can stomach) and sneak off to stalk the city walls with your arms spread, whispering “Draaacarrrysss!”
Sooo, I’m stalking Old Town from high above on the city walls and…Okay, my wife is telling me I need to get on with our Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik, so here goes.
FLASH TRIP : 3 FANTASTICAL DAYS IN DUBROVNIK INDEX
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Your Fantastical 3-Day Itinerary
When to go to Dubrovnik
It gets hot in Dubrovnik. Downright steamy. We’re advising lots of sunblock and solid headwear, breathable clothes, and preferably a breeze. When cruise ships are running, Dubrovnik is a mob scene. That’s why, if you can visit during whatever resembles an off-season these days, that’s what we recommend. Unless you’re one of those people on that cruise, in which case, uh, hello! Now, post-cruise season can raise another concern: weather.
The wind known as the bora starts up in November. For folks who hope to explore the islands along Croatia’s coast, this is a pain in tail because the choppy seas interrupt ferry traffic. We went just before the start of the bora, which proved magical. If you don’t mind the occasional storm, it’s completely worth it. Old Town is… less busy and the sites are considerably easier to access.
If you’d like to add some sunbathing, swimming, and beach time while you’re visiting – and still want to avoid the peak of tourist season – aim for Late May to mid-June when sea temperatures just start becoming comfortable, or Mid-September to early October. The Adriatic stays fairly warm into early fall.
Arriving in Dubrovnik
By Plane: Dubrovnik’s airport (DBV) is about 12 miles (20km) south of the city. It takes on average, about 30 minute to get to and from. Shuttle service is timed to the arrival of flights and typically head toward Dubrovnik 30-45 minutes after a plane touches down. Even better, they operate 24/7.
You can grab a ticket at the Platanus counter near baggage claim. If you’re going straight to Old Town, the shuttle is a direct shot. If you’re lodging in Gruž or need to go downtown with your bags, the transfer is straightforward (right after the Gruž stop). A ticket runs approximately 10 Euros.
By Vehicle: You can utilize Uber or Bolt, but the airport taxis are super dependable with a fixed rate of approx. €30 E. Of course, always double-check before hopping in a cab.
We’ve taken local bus as well. It’s slower, but not difficult. The D8 route is the one you want. You can catch it right outside the airport for around €2.50.
Rental Cars: Old Town is completely car free. Finding parking outside is challenging, especially in high season. The streets are pretty narrow and they’re reeeally steep in most places. You can certainly find street parking, especially if you brave the hillside, but it’s not a breeze. We liked saving the car rental for after Dubrovnik, because getting around on foot or by bus is very low-stress.
If you having that rental is non-negotiable, but you’d like to save some money on long-term parking, there are options in Gruž. It’s about a 10-15 min bus/taxi into Old Town, but some of the longer-term public parking runs is approximately €20-30/day.
International Driver License/Permit (IDP): Not required in Croatia, but in some of the surrounding countries, so if you’re planning to do some road-tripping, it’s best you nab this document before you even start your trip. Getting an IDP by mail takes a long time. Best to stop into a AAA office near you and have one printed up in the time it takes to make scrambled eggs.
Dubrovnik is eminently walkable. You won’t even tax your step counter like you might in a place like Prague. That doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of alleys to stroll and get lost in.
Special Note for Parents Traveling with Small Children
Dubrovnik is the perfect place to see everything in a day or spend a little time. Everything you really need/want to see sits within a compact area. You can pace yourself with kids, build in a little down-time, and take care of most of your needs within walking distance.
Naturally, there are plenty of cobblestones and uneven surfaces. Trekking strollers won’t have too much trouble. The hills are a different story. They’re steep. We do like baby-wearing for situations like these. The rampart walk is, far and away, the most popular thing to do with kids. But be advised, while the walls are mostly high enough on either side of the pedestrian walkway, there are places (especially near the cannonades overlooking the Adriatic) where you’ll want to use extra caution. Some of the walls are a little too high for most kids to see over, so lifting might be necessary. Mind the drop!
Where to Stay in Dubrovnik
You have a decision to make. Stay inside Old Town or outside. During peak season, getting a spot within the ramparts is a tougher prospect. But fortunately, there are numerous options for lodging both inside and out. We stayed in a mix of hotel and AirBnb, specifically because we lingered so E could convalesce a bit (morning sickness) instead of pounding the pavement like we normally prefer.
Prices drop off pretty decently toward the end of the season (and before things ramp up), so bargain hunters can have good luck if you’re looking for that good deal.
By and large, Old Town is beautifully maintained with very modern accommodations, featuring everything you might expect in a big, cosmopolitan city. If you're looking for an Air BnB with a spot to cook, you've got plenty of options. The city has enjoyed a measure of wealth throughout its history, and while it’s tragic that over half didn’t survive the shelling of Dubrovnik in 1991/92 (more on that later), the city has been restored to a magnificence that is breathtaking – particularly to someone from ye New World with its relatively “new” architecture.
WS&T Travel Tip: Steps are a way of life on the side of a mountain. We highly recommend you try to use Google Street View (outside Old Town) or read the reviews. If steps are something that concerns you, do your homework.
Rilati Old Town Palace (Inside Old Town) is a great low key spot with nice amenities, kitchenette options, and plenty of room for up to a family of four.
B&B Villa Dubrovnik Garden (Outside Old Town) is a great place for restful accommodations and an amazing breakfast. Not the most lavish lodging, but if you're like us and you want to start the day without having to forage, these is an excellent option.
Amoret Apartments (Inside Old Town) has awesome a/c and a great breakfast. Tucked into the south end, opposite the port the apartments have some steps, but nowhere near as many as some places. There are lodging options with well-appointed rooms, including kitchenette and space to sprawl, which is often a luxury in such a compact part of Dubrovnik.
Where to Eat in Dubrovnik
Hopefully, you’ve been with me since the beginning of this article so I can make the joke that there’s more than ramen to satisfy your cravings in Dubrovnik. If you’re just joining us, sorry for the curveball.
Anyway, T did most of the eating, except for the infrequent moments when E had some relief from morning sickness. When she did feel well enough, we more than made up for lost time. Dubrovnik has a decidedly Venetian vibe when it comes to cuisine, so lovers of seafood and Italian fare will be amply cared for.
Since there are no cars inside the walls of Old Town, “street-side” patio seating makes for a wonderful treat. By the night, the thoroughfares are completely covered in attractive white tablecloth spots. Music is everywhere and if you look up you might even spot the occasional dragon… sorry. I’m seeing a professional for the runaway imagination.
Oh! Pastries are also big business on the main thoroughfares. It was rainy when we were there, which always sends my hankering for fresh baked goodies into full tilt mode. Try the classic Balkan savory pastry Burek at Holy Burek! Grab a coffee at Cogito (seasonal) or Life According to Kawa.
Trattoria Carmen: Intimate, fresh, “sea-to-table” Italian-inspired cuisine that’s light and most delicious. They don’t take reservations and they’re quite popular, so arrive early and be ready to grab a glass of wine and wait, especially during high season.
Nautika Arsenal: Lovely Croatian food in the heart of the city. Staff is lovely; seafood for days. Book ahead during busy periods.
Taj Mahal: The improbably named restaurant actually serves hearty, classic Bosnian cuisine. What is Bosnian cuisine, you ask? Classic Balkan food overviewed in our Essential Guide to Slovenia. Good idea to make a rez.
Restaurant Dubrovnik: Serving up that classic white tablecloth Dalmatian high-end cuisine you might be craving – at least for one meal. It’s splurgey but actually quite reasonable for the experience. Try to go on a good-weather day so you can sit on the terrace.
Stara Loza: Casually inside a 15th century palace, this is another white tablecloth dining experience with a gorgeous rooftop, with a bit of a more modern twist. Splurge: worth it. Book ahead.
Mea Culpa: Mea delicious Italian meal, amirite?
For an easy lunch, try the smash burgers at Kiba or the sammies at Yes Yes. We’ve also heard rave reviews of the burgers with calamari at Burger House Republic.
Tabasco Pizzeria: Typical of a popular tourist destination, there’s a lot of pizza in town. This isn’t the most charming environment, but it’s well priced and the pizza is delish. They also do take-out if you’re ready for a night in.
Preša: Not quite fast food, but definitely more casual, grab-and-go than the other recommendations. Punches above its weight in taste for the low prices. Burgers, giant fries, etc.
For dessert, try a gourmet pastry at Gianni or (who am I kidding, and) an ice cream at Peppinos.
WS&T Healthy Food Recommendation: Croatian food tends to be pretty fresh and health-some, but if you’ve been knocking back burgers and pasta, try Soul Kitchen or the so-good-you-can’t-believe-it’s-vegan Nishta.
Okay, itinerary time up next!
Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik
Day 1: Old Town
Welcome to Old Town Dubrovnik! Let’s grab a pastry, a cup of coffee, and get an early start. Depending on the time of year, the City Walls encircling Old Town are not only busy but really, really hot up there as the day progresses. There’s a ticket office – yeah, even the wall exacts its price – near the Pile Gate at the northwest end of Old Town. She ain’t cheap, folks (about €35), leading some to wonder if it’s worth it. But oh man, the answer is a resounding 1.25-mile YES!
What’s more, your ticket is good for access to the massive fortress Fort of St. Lawrence that juts out over the cliffs at the northwestern end of Old Town and which helped protect the city during its prominence.
The City Wall walk offers a sweeping vantage of the red-tiled roofs that inspired King’s Landing, a bird’s-eye view of white froth and blue Adriatic waves pounding the fortifications, a glimpse into the maze of alleyways you’ll explore later, and a panoramic look at a once-powerful, ultra-wealthy medieval fortress. From here, it’s easy to imagine yourself back in time, watching the Greyjoy fleet merchant ships under sail glide into the city’s well-protected southern Old Port harbor.
When you get a chance to drop down off the city walls (once you leave you can’t go back up without purchasing another ticket), you owe it to yourself to find a bench in the shadow in the harbor… and just watch. The waters are crystal clear and the tourist ferrying trade is brisk. So much life in this compact space, it’s hard not to try to imagine it in all its Medieval glory.
One of the things that made the biggest impression on us during this walk “above” Old Town was being able to look down and see some of the stone ruins of homes destroyed during the 1991 siege – yes, a 20th century siege. The intentionally-left ruins can be spotted if you look carefully near the southeastern edge of the city between the sea fortifications and Old Port.
Along the northern end of Old Town, as you walk along some of the highest portion of the city walls, you’ll notice an incredible basketball court tucked in between the buildings. This spot is open to all, if you want to bring the kids and a ball.
Let’s talk museums. Second only to Europe’s oldest synagogue located in Prague, Dubrovnik hosts a fascinating former ghetto and synagogue, with museum. Dubrovnik doesn’t have an extensively well-provisioned museum scene, but there are a few great stop-ins to get some quieter culture and respite. We enjoyed the very lowkey Foundry Museum, the Franciscan Monastery Museum – where you can see one of the world’s oldest continually operating pharmacies (definitely read up on its history) – the Dominican Monastery Museum, and the Maritime Museum.
If you’re into treasuries, stroll through the Roman-style Baroque Dubrovnik Cathedral. The cathedral itself isn’t as grand as some, but the treasury is filled with… items of note. (That was me trying to avoid saying treasure twice).
Once you’ve gotten off the wall, spend some time hitting up the attractions you spotted from on-high, then be sure to get the remaining benefit from your City Wall tickets. Head out of Old Town and hike up the coast through tight little alleys and check out Fort of St. Lawrence. And if you dig forts, you can take the kids over to St. John’s Fort where there’s a splendid old aquarium with a few dozen tanks featuring all sorts of local marine fauna.
Outside Old Town, you probably noticed the looming presence of Mount Srd, especially if you walked any of the streets at its base. Napoleon built a fortress up here in the 19th century, connected by a cable car that’s a total blast to take up and down the mountain. The cable car doesn’t run in high winds, and especially during the persistent winter bora, it’s virtually shut down. But if you get the chance, spend the €27 to climb the mountain for spectacular vistas (wait for the best one below).
Within Napoleon’s fort, it’s worth checking out the Homeland War Museum, especially if you’re interested in learning about the various defenses of Dubrovnik during WWII and regional conflicts. It’s well worth the €4 admission price, even if you’re not a war history buff, because you can reach the fort’s roof for truly the best views from Mount Srd. From the top, you can see Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and out to sea it’s possible to spot the Dalmatians.
Day 2: Music & Lokrum Island
If you’ve walked the city walls to the south end of Old Town, you’ve no doubt noticed the once-fortified island just off the coast. That’s Lokrum Island. It’s well worth catching one of the frequent boats in the Old Town harbor that goes to the densely wooded isle, designated in its entirety as a nature reserve. Give yourself a solid five hours to do the island and enjoy it at a leisurely pace.
There’s a number of great, shaded walks and excellent swimming spots. These are especially tasty if you are looking for a place to swim and sunbathe that’s less crowded than nearby Banje Beach, directly outside the south end of Old Town. The other beach, farther to the south is St. Jakob Beach. Tender-footed: be sure to bring your water shoes. They’re all pebble beaches to some degree.
Kayaking around the city walls is a great adventure. You get some idea of how majestic Dubrovnik must have seemed while walking above it. But it’s something else entirely to navigate a small watercraft through the churning Adriatic in sight of those fearsome walls jutting out into the water. X-Adventures is the major tour provider (approx. €30), but there are plenty of options for rentals, either self-guided or with a group.
If the seas are cooperating and you’re feeling up for it, kayaking to Lokrum Island is a blast. Or you can take the ferries that leave a couple times an hour (€5). Everything, including your kayaking tours, leave from Old Port. So, you can arrange ticketing there at the well-advertised kiosks.
Lokrum features the ruins of a basilica dating back to the 12th century, a beautiful Benedictine Monastery and Abbey from the 900s AD that is said to be haunted by a Benedictine curse (and so, so, so many peacocks), and the summer “home” of an ill-fated Habsburg who would find himself facing down a firing squad in Mexico of all places just three years after erecting his residence on the island.
The island is completely gorgeous. Game of Thrones fans will recognize some of the exteriors as those from the city of Qarth across the narrow sea, and indeed there’s a small museum dedicated to that fact.
Before his dalliance as Emperor of Mexico, Maximillian laid the groundwork for what is a lovely botanical garden. And while you can’t stay overnight on the island, Lokrum does boast a number of fun bars near the water. Have a delicious cocktail and cast your mind asea before heading back to Dubrovnik before the last ferry ride at 7pm.
If you’ve arrived in Dubrovnik any time between late July and mid-September, you will have two opportunities to enjoy some of Europe’s best symphonies, chamber orchestras, recitals, and concerts all hosted in cozy Old Town. Festival culture is so important in Dubrovnik that they do not one but two summer festivals, back-to-back.
A lot like Prague, it felt like every block, every church, and every concert venue was hosting a musical event 24/7. Shows run the gamut from intimate to grandiose, so if you’re an afficionado, there’s always something to drop in and see.
Day 3: Dubrovnik, the Perfect Jumping-Off Point
Day Trips from Dubrovnik
An additionally awesome advantage about home-basing in Dubrovnik (holy unintentional alliteration) – which, as mentioned, is very compact – is the fun/convenience of numerous potential day trips a short distance from the city. You can feasibly see all of Old Town and a bit of greater Dubrovnik in two days. If you want to linger and stroll, there’s no shortage of Day 3 stuff to do and see and eat.
But whether you’re interested in island hopping or prefer to check out some of the very cool sites within the region, you’ve got a number of choices.
The big draw for those wanting a little dose of Mediterranean-style escape with their Croatian adventuring, is to make the short trip up the coast via the inexpensive public Jadrolinija Ferry or book a tour boat to see and experience the Elaphiti Island chain.
Starting with Koločep, situated within sight of Dubrovnik, the island is a great place to escape the crowds for the day or a night’s stopover. The sandy beaches and crystalline water are breathtakingly reminiscent of Greece. You can explore and swim the Blue Cave, formed by a natural limestone erosion. And for history buffs like us, 9th-12th century churches dot the island, each wonderfully unique and well worth a peek.
Lopud Island offers some of the same beachy vibes as Koločep—including a real treasure in Sunj Beach, which is accessed via a gorgeous forest walk—along with your ubiquitous Franciscan Monastery. But the island’s main attraction, in addition to being completely car free, is the "hidden" beach.
If you’re traveling with small children, the beach is outstanding. You don’t need to make the trek by foot. You can hire a golf cart or reach it by boat. But wonderfully, the water is nice and shallow, tucked in a protected bay from most big wave events, and a blast to bring the tender footed.
Want to experience Croatia’s deliciously inviting wine culture? 30 miles north of Dubrovnik lies the Pelješac Peninsula, jutting at a northwesterly angle into the Adriatic Sea and just off the vineyard-ruled island of Korčula. Home to idyllic towns that have managed to fly under the cruise ship radar, you can do the whole island in a day without missing out on some of the best seafood and wine on this side of the Adriatic.
About 20km south of Dubrovnik, Cavtat is a must if you’re into art, architecture, and historical artifacts. In addition to featuring a picturesque Old Town promenade almost as charming as Dubrovnik’s, the Bukovac Museum and Racic Family Mausoleum in a hauntingly beautiful hilltop cemetery are alone worth the day trip.
Between the music, the seafood, the beautiful beaches, culture, history, and fantasy, there's something for every member of the troupe along Croatia's storied Adriatic coast. Treating Dubrovnik as a home base is a great way to see just about everything south of Split. For more incredible trips around this region, check out our Slovenian guides to extend your adventure.
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