The Absolutely Everything Guide to Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
- Trevor Lawrence
- Jul 17
- 48 min read
Updated: Jul 30
How do you buy a ticket for the ferry boats? What villages should I visit on Lago Atitlán? What sites should I see? Read on...
We're crouched at the midpoint of the Santa Cruz–San Marcos trail, a few hundred feet above the deepest Lake in Central America, catching our breath and gawping as the water below shifts from deep green to ocean blue. Beneath a sky thick with anvil-headed thunderclouds, I can't shake the feeling that I'm being watched – three giants always in view: Tolimán, San Pedro, and Atitlán.
These volcanoes stand sentinel over the Guatemalan Highlands and the 11-mile-long caldera Lake, where the culture of the Maya endures – circling the shores, and even lingering in the ruins hidden beneath the lake surface.
Break out your AllTrails app, leave those resort fantasies behind, abandon your roller bag in favor of a backpack, and get ready for your Lago Atitlán adventure.
The Spanish conquest of the 16th century brought Catholicism to every corner it touched – and where its zealotry went, local observances were often absorbed or erased. But in Guatemala, and around Lake Atitlán in particular, the Maya hung on through a remarkable process of syncretism. When resistance to colonial power proved impossible, the Indigenous peoples did what they had to do, weaving and fusing their customs and beliefs into this new alien framework.
Today, the towns that ring this deeply spiritual Lake are steeped in a wild hybrid mythology. Ancient Maya traditions coexist with Catholic and Christian symbolism.
We saw evidence of this bubbling mixing pot everywhere, especially in the prominent effigies of folk saints who preside over everything from crops and marriage to health… and even vengeance.
EVERYTHING GUIDE TO LAKE ATITLÁN INDEX
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GETTING TO ATITLÁN
Flying into Guatemala City is the most common approach vector for visitors heading to the Highlands and Lake Atitlán from abroad. The approximately four hours it takes to reach the Lake's primary hub Panajachel (Pana) from La Aurora International (GUA) is easily done by shuttle. I recommend starting your drive as early in the day as feasible. Guatemala City traffic is incredibly jammed during rush hours.
Almost everywhere in the country, the Tuk Tuk (mototaxi) is abundant. These are the perfect in-betweener for treks that are too far to walk, but not quite far enough to hop a chicken bus. Don't be afraid to pre-negotiate rates. Most short trips shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks (or 5-8Q).
For those travelers coming from Antigua, all you have to do is stop into literally any shuttle agency in town. They are virtually all working together in some fashion to pile passengers into colectivos and get them on the road. The drive is 2.5 to 3 hours.
Locals who do not drive their own cars rely on chicken buses, the other ubiquitous mode of transport throughout the country. The ornately decorated buses are among the cheapest mode of travel. If you grew up in the US and rode the school bus as a kid, you'll find something oddly nostalgic about a chicken bus – with good reason: they are old American school buses. Trips on chicken buses are invariably longer due to many stops. And over longer distances, a few transfers may be needed to get to your ultimate destination. We'll talk more about chicken buses for commuting, but let's start with a direct connection to Atitlán.
Shuttle Companies (Colectivos)
These providers usually make three drives a day with 6-10 people per bus, each charging between $30-45 per person (compared to <$10 for a chicken bus). Some of the larger hotels near Atitlán may facilitate a shuttle trip as part of your stay. You can try bundling to make things easier. We prefer directly contact with one of the established companies offering standalone shuttle services from the Guatemala City airport.
Book your shuttle at least 48 hours in advance. Don't feel squeamish about paying at the time of booking. These companies have been around a while so they're generally pretty trustworthy. If your hotel is near Panajachel's city center, shuttles are good about dropping you off at your hotel. Otherwise, they'll drop you either at their office, near the city center, or at the pier (Tzanjuyu). Unless we're arriving late to Pana, we don't spend the night there. I'll explain in a moment. Instead, we'll exit the colectivo in the city center and walk to the dock for the next available boat to the town where we've booked lodgings.
I should pause a moment to stress the importance of not booking a shuttle (colectivo) from GUA to Lake Atitlán too close to your flight's arrival time.
Even if it means a bit of standing around, the risk of missing your scheduled shuttle is 50-50. Shuttle companies generally keep a no exceptions, no refund policy if you miss the shuttle.
Lastly, I've never known one of these shuttles to be on time. Traffic on the road to Atitlán can be slow, Pana can be snarled with traffic, and any number of additional issues can cause delays. Be prepared to wait up 30 minutes. That doesn't mean you should be late. On the colectivo shuttles, there are other travelers waiting to go. If you're not present, they will leave without you.
If you prefer, there are exclusive solo shuttles that will wait, but expect to pay a premium for the service. Here are some good shuttle companies:
Atitrans: Super convenient provider offering shuttle rides from GUA to various destinations, including Antigua, Chichicastenango, Atitlán, and more. Booking is pretty straightforward via their website. They offer several pickup locations at the airport, or from select hotels near the airport.
Adrenalina: Super convenient provider offering a similar suite of shuttles from GUA to various destinations in Guatemala. Visit their website to book. Pickup locations around GUA airport, or from select hotels nearby.
Magic Travel: Provides competitively priced shuttles to destinations around Guatemala, including Atitlán. Contact them via WhatsApp by visiting their website.
You can get to Lake Atitlán by driving along the Pan-American Highway 1. While you won't end up needing a vehicle for a few days as you explore the Lake, there are several long-term parking lots in Panajachel. Be sure to pick something that offers a modicum of security—staffing, lockable gates, etc.
Special Notes for Parents Traveling with Kids
Lake Atitlán and its surrounding villages feel collectively like a world removed. The little kid in me certainly felt a genuine sense of magic, of total escape, and of wonder the first time I visited this Guatemalan Highlands region. Towns and villages, by and large, are safe. Latin America goes out of its way to welcome kids, possibly more than adults (ha!). Children will encounter an abundance of places to swim, with plenty of spots to rent inexpensive water toys.
Strollers are almost totally a no-go, given the uneven terrain and piers. Ferry docks have been cobbled together over the years to accommodate the rise and fall of the lake and the different sizes of boats. As a result, they are multi-level with steps upon steps upon steps. Since you will be getting on and off small boats, you will want to have your hands free. This goes for baby-wearing as well. Fortunately, people will always want to assist. If you didn't grow up at sea, take advantage of helping hands until your landlubber boat balance is dialed in.
Hiking trails run the gamut from easy to hard. We swear by the community on the AllTrails app. People write detailed accounts of routes, and nothing is better for getting a sense of how rugged and/or rural your trek will be. Many of the lower shoreline walks hugging the lake are recommended for those traveling with little ones, especially because the higher hillside hikes that wend through canyons and rocky crags, often feature stretches of thin trail that drop straight off a steep slope. Sure-footed, mountain goat children will be okay, but be forewarned. These can be dangerous treks along the higher trails.
The standard warning applies to children under 1year old. It is inadvisable to bring them on a boat because life vests are rarely made to fit safely at this age. Babies also lack the neck strength to keep their heads upright if they tip over in water.
You can, of course, bring an approved vest, but ensure that it fits securely before traveling. It's also fairly likely that most boats won't have (or have in short supply) life vests for children under 5, so plan accordingly.
You're not required to wear vests on boats around Atitlán, but knowing it's available or planning to bring something compact for swimming could be very helpful.
FERRIES & LAY OF THE LAKE
WSAT Travel Tip: You can use Google Street View to check out some of the road around the Lake. This will give you a sense of driving conditions. Even more cool, there's a Google Street View of one of the direct routes around the Lake. If you'd like to know what the view feels like from one of the boats, visit Google Maps, toggle Street View in layers and click the blue lines circuiting Lago Atitlán. Using the arrow buttons on your keyboard, you can navigate the Lake.
Before we lay it out in more detail in this everything guide to Lake Atitlán, let's keep it simple. Buying a ticket to transit the Lake is really as straightforward as showing up, hopping on, and having correct change (or close to it) when you're ready to get off.
As alluded to above, the town where you'll most likely start your Lago Atitlán journey is Panajachel, or simply Pana. Don't let this town put you off. On a surface level, it's admittedly got the charm of a border town. Overly solicitous vendors, touristy nicknacks, unremarkable food, and divey hotels near the city center and the docks. But Pana functions largely as a transit hub, so it's to be expected. That said, the town is still interesting and the outskirts of Pana feature worthy sites and accommodations.
Moving around the Lake is done mostly by boat (lancha), operating from two ferry terminals (muelles): Tzanjuyu (approximately "san-hoo-yoo") or Puerto Panajachel AKA Public Beach Dock (Calle del Río).
Calling them terminals or ferries is a bit misleading. You will find yourself looking out on an array of small boats moored to one of two main docks. Tzanjuyu, residing at the terminus of Calle Santander/del Embarcadero. Puerto Panajachel, standing at the mouth of the Panajachel River. The two launches are within walking distance of each other.
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Dock Name | AKA | Destinations Served | Departures | Ave Cost | Notes |
Tzanjuyú | Embarcadero Tzanjuyú | Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, Tzununá, San Marcos, San Juan, San Pedro La Laguna | Every 20–30 min (6:30–17:30) | 10-25Q for public / 40 to 70Q for private | Most popular dock for tourists; fast lanchas connect to major lake towns |
Puerto Panajachel | Muelle Público / Playa Pública | Santiago Atitlán, San Lucas Tolimán | Every 60–90 min (varies) | same | Longer crossings; fewer tourists; boats less frequent |
Most visitors will transit the Lake via Tzanjuyu, which is considered the main ferry terminal, and offers more frequent direct service to the most visited locations. This port not only operates in service of commuters, but goods. It's not unusual to share a boat with building supplies, fruits and veggies heading to market. Even the occasional dog may be taking his return commute. (Don't worry, they generally keep to themselves).
Want to skip the dock hassle? Try the relativey new Ripple app, developed by folks living on Lake Atitlán. Reasonable rates and low stress. So I'm told...
NAVIGATING THE DOCKS (TICKETING)
You've arrived at the dock. If you haven't prepared yourself, it might seem a touch bewildering. Dozens of boats and a handful of uniformed and non-uniformed fellows waiting.
What's it Like to Buy a Ticket?
Let's travel like a local and opt for the public lancha with a direct route, which means 3 stops or fewer. If you're headed to one of the major stops, direct service is available. If not, you'll just have to enjoy the beauty of the Lake as the boat putters along making dockside stops.
No advanced booking is required (or available). Boat captains and crew will handle ticketing. They're usually – though not always – in uniform. You'll find these fellows loitering the docks waiting for passengers and often calling out destinations around the Lake.
Note: The private boat folks will generally come on the strongest, since they're trying to sell you on a premium service – faster, exclusive, etc. A private ride could cost in the neighborhood of $20-$50 compared to a rough max of about Q25 or $3.25 for public.
What to Say to Book Passage?
You can honestly get away with just saying the name of your destination. But to make your life easier: For example: "[Town Name], solo ida (one-way) por favor". Some travelers might argue that the last bit is unnecessary since one-way is standard. But it's been my experience that some fellows frequently try selling foreigners a roundtrip ticket.
Politely decline any suggestion that you get a roundtrip ticket. Public transit lanchas are ticketed one-way, so that's a pretty good tip-off that someone is trying to get you a pricier boat. Then again, feel free to comparison shop if you're trying to travel in style.
Once you've made it clear to someone on the dock where you're headed and you've been ushered toward a boat, feel free to ask the fare price to ensure you're not being led toward a private boat. "Cuanto cuesta a [Town Name]?" If the price is weirdly high, ask someone else where to find the right boat.
After that's settled, they may hustle you and your luggage on board in a hurry. The sudden rush is mostly performative. Captains want to see their sardines packed into the can so they can do a headcount and avoid stragglers. Ultimately, all that rushing can suddenly turn into hurry up and wait.
How (and importantly) WHEN Do You Pay?
As you're closing in on your destination or about to get off, this is the time to get your money ready. You shouldn't be asked to pay in advance. Instead, you'll pay as you're exiting the boat at your destination. Getting close to exact change is not just appreciated, consider it mandatory.
Boat transit fares will range roughly from Q10 to Q25 ($1.30 - $3.25) depending on destination distance. For Q25, you'll likely reach the farthest towns on the Lake. For example: Pana to San Pedo or Pana to Santiago Atitlán. If you get charged Q25 for a short trip (because you're a foreigner), you could haggle… or carry on living your life.
How Long Does It Take?
A direct route to San Pedro from Pana, for example, takes approximately 30-45 minutes. Let's say you've found yourself on a boat making stops around the Lake. I've made a visual that imagines Lake Atitlán as a clock face. Tzanjuyu boats typically transit the Lake counter-clockwise, while public beach boats go the opposite way. If you look at this map and listen to the boat crew calling out stops, you'll be able orient yourself and see how many stops to your destination.
Do You Get Seasick?
Lake conditions vary! Before 1pm on a sunny day, the waters are placid. As the day progresses and hot and cool air begin to duel over the Lake, it gets a little choppy. Most of the public boats are blue and white fiberglass skiffs with a canopy roof and open sides. They sit very low on the water, which is generally supposed to help with motion sickness. Ha! Afternoons generally mean a bumpier ride. If you get seasick, this is a great time to preemptively take your Dramamine or plan for an earlier, smoother transit.
Splish-Splash Conditions
Another incentive for taking an earlier boat. As mentioned, the boat sides are pretty open. While your luggage may not get splashed, you have a 50-50 chance of catching a nice spritz. If you're not a fan of getting splashed, try for a middle seat. But be aware, while the boats are operated within their safe limits, you may be transiting with 10-20 fellow commuters. Life jackets should be visible. You can ask for one if you want.
How Do You Get Back to Pana?
Just as you did originally, you'll approach the town's public dock and ask for Pana. Someone will point you in the right direction. If you're in a smaller town, there may not be a soul in sight. Be sure to hang out on the dock if you wish to board the next boat.
Often, if there's no one on the dock, eagle-eyed captains will peel off from their approach and go to the next town to save time. Typically, if you're standing there, they will spot you and stop to pick you up. But you can feel free to give a little wave in their direction if you're worried about being confused for someone taking in the view.
Remember, boats run from approximately sunrise to sunset. But may stop running as early as 5:00pm. Later in the day service becomes less frequent. If it's starting to get late, odds of a guaranteed return begin to dwindle. You can always check with a hotel or restaurant near the dock to verify when the last boat comes through. If you miss the last boat, you may also be able to hail a tuk tuk driver for a ride to the nearest town.
WS&T Money Tip: You will be charged more than locals to get around. This is customary. You're not being ripped off. Try to remember the power of your currency vs. the Quetzal. Prices are still very reasonable.
THE TOWNS OF LAKE ATITLÁN
We'll take a counter-clockwise tour around Lago Atitlán, which is typically the route followed by boats making their stops once every 30-45 minutes. These details are the result of exhaustive visiting and trekking, numerous 10-mile hikes, zippy tuk-tuk rides through mountainside passes, and enough boat rides even Magellan would need a siesta. If we've forgotten any specific details, please let us know in the comments.
Atitlán Safety
Generally speaking, the Guatemalan Highlands are pretty safe, especially with kids. The practical rules of the road should always be observed. We've written plenty about this. Atitlán, like most heavily touristed areas, can attract a shadier, opportunist element. (You can be mugged anywhere in the world.) But for the most part, we felt great strolling about and even taking night walks.
Which reminds me, bring a flashlight or make sure your phone (with light) is fully charged. Some of the more remote towns don't have much for streetlight, and that's part of the charm.
if you're going from May to October, plan accordingly to keep those kiddos happy and dry.
Mosquitoes are ever-present during the warmer months and closer to the lakeside. For parents traveling with children, it's a good idea to keep a few insect repellant options. Check out our article on the subject of DEET and kids. The science still suggests no better repellant and more than half a century of research attests to its safety when properly used. Mosquito nets are also easy to travel with. During warmer months, we highly recommend one or two travel-sized fans as some lodging does not come with air conditioning.
Lake Atitlán Village Map
PANA (PANAJACHEL)
The traveler's main hub with a quick-commerce-border-town vibe. Worthy sites include the Riserva Natural Atitlán featuring hanging bridges, lake views, animals, and water sports, ziplines, and viewpoint strolls. Pana is one of the better places on the lake to reserve your fun on the water. Prices are best here for paragliding, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and limited water skiing. Swimming, however, is not recommended from this part of the lake.
Not far from the Riserva is one of the most popular horseback riding tours on the lake. Trev comes from an equestrian family, long ago raising and racing mostly Quarter Horses and Thoroughbreds, so this was the first time he'd seen a stable almost entirely comprised of handsome Friesians, a smaller draught horse brought from the Netherlands. Check out the fabulously-rated Fabulas Atitlán to book a trail ride around the lake.
Pana actually has a pretty compelling museum, catering specifically to the underwater Maya finds. Through the history of human settlement, the Lake level has risen and fallen quite dramatically. As such, there are some fairly well preserved ruins beneath the Lake's surface.
Museo Lacustre in Panajachel is dedicated to the Maya culture at Atitlán and the site of ancient Samabaj, sometimes called the Mayan Atlantis. (Once a historical island shrine and pilgrimage site, Samabaj was submerged during a massive eruption around 250 and 300 CE. The lake's drainage was blocked, filling the caldera and the valley. Entire temples were swallowed.) Also from Pana, Thursdays and Sundays, there is a shuttle that goes to famous Chichicastenango for the largest market in Guatemala. The experience is bucket list-worthy.
Where to Stay in Pana
Hotel Utz Jay: A beloved budget hotel tucked a couple of blocks from the Lake. Set in lush gardens with fruit trees, it offers clean, spacious rooms and even a Mayan-style sauna and hot tub. Guests love the friendly staff and quiet location close to the action but not on the noisy main street.
Selina Atitlán: A trendy hostel-hotel with a social vibe and co-working space. It sits right by the Lake with a pool and dock. Great for meeting other travelers, Selina offers both dorms and private rooms, an on-site restaurant/bar, and frequent events. (Listed among the most popular hostels at the Lake.
Hotel Atitlán: Upscale Spanish-colonial style hotel boasting extensive botanical gardens and an infinity pool overlooking the Lake. Its elegant rooms and lakeside restaurant make it a top pick for those seeking tranquility and volcano views right on the outskirts of town. The gardens and vistas here are often praised as spectacular.
Porta Hotel Del Lago: A long-established 4-star hotel on the lakefront with modern amenities. It features a large pool, panoramic restaurant, and balconies facing the water. While a bit dated in design, its comfort, central location, and unobstructed Lake views keep it a favorite. Families appreciate the reliable service and lakeside grounds.
SANTA CRUZ LA LAGUNA
Getting to (and around) Santa Cruz la Laguna
Approx 10 minutes by boat from Pana. Hiking trails and rural walking paths are numerous around the Lake. You can walk to neighboring villages but be prepared for a workout.
Thoughts on Santa Cruz La Laguna
This small, Kaqchikel village is nestled (squished?) onto the side of steep hillside along the northern end of the Lake. Volcanic vantages are phenomenal from Santa Cruz. Once upon a time, there were no roads to Santa Cruz. It used to be the only way to get there was by boat. One of the reasons we love it there is the immediate feeling of seclusion. While the majority of town remains rural, ecolodges dot the water and hillside.
What you won't find in Santa Cruz are the wild nights of San Pedro or Santiago Atitlán. If you're the kind of traveler looking for quiet cultural immersion, this is a great village to spend some time in. Walking the steep streets and footpaths, taking in the best views of the volcanoes, and just generally taking it slow – that's the way to go.
What to do in Santa Cruz la Laguna
Other than just taking it easy, Lake-and-volcano watching, and hiking, there's a dive shop where you can take courses to tour underwater volcanic formations and ruins, all in the highest elevation, deepest Lake in Central America. Check out ATI Dive Shop. They also have a lodge and restaurant.
Where to Stay in Santa Cruz La Laguna
A room with a view… there's something special about waking up and looking out your window at breathtaking Lago Atitlán and its trio of volcanoes. If you're able to check out pictures, look for accommodations with a view. There are plenty to be had at reasonable rates. Some recs:
La Iguana Perdida: A legendary backpacker hostel right by the dock, famous for its welcoming social vibe. Offers affordable dorms and private rooms amid tropical gardens. Known for its on-site dive shop and weekly BBQ & party nights, it's a hub for meeting other travelers (but quiets down by late evening). No Lake view from some rooms, but the common areas are lakefront.
Free Cerveza: A unique glamping hostel featuring upscale tents and cabanas on the lakeshore. It's popular for its nightly "all you can eat tacos and free beer" dinners (hence the name) which create a communal atmosphere. Lounge in hammocks by day, enjoy the small plunge pool, and watch volcanoes from the waterfront deck. A fun budget choice with a bit of party spirit.
Isla Verde Eco-Lodge: A mid-range boutique hotel composed of charming cabins on a lush hillside. Emphasizing sustainability, it has solar power and organic gardens. Lake views from the rooms' decks and the open-air restaurant are fantastic. Guests love the yoga studio, the farm-to-table vegetarian-friendly menu, and the tranquil ambiance blending into nature.
Laguna Lodge Eco-Resort & Nature Reserve: An intimate luxury eco-resort accessible only by boat, offering six exquisite suites with indigenous décor and balconies overlooking the Lake. Expect gourmet dining, a cliffside infinity pool, and on-site hiking trails in the private reserve. Laguna Lodge is pricey but frequently cited as a top romantic and wellness retreat (massages, a yoga pavilion, and those sunrise views over the water.
JAIBALITO
Getting to (and around) Jaibalito
5 minutes from Santa Cruz by boat, 15 minutes from Pana by boat. Hiking trails offer access to Santa Cruz (approx. 45 min walk).
Thoughts on Jaibalito
Tucked between Santa Cruz and Tzununa, Jaibalito is super isolated with virtually no access apart from boat and footpath. The Tz'utujil Maya hamlet was without electric until the 1990s, which should give you some sense of how off-the-grid it is. No ATMs, no shopping, light on the internet.
What to do in Jaibalito
There's a fantastic, long shoreline trail here that takes you west to Tzununa. Expect about an hour walk and lovely, rural scenery. Some of the trail is a little challenging as with many of the Lake trails, due to volcanic outcropping over and around which you'll need to climb.
Swimming is very refreshing from this point of the Lake. The few lodges/hotels rent kayaks, and a mid-afternoon snooze might just be the best you've ever had.
The most well-known thing to do in Jaibalito also happens to be one of the most popular attractions on the entire Lake. La Casa del Mundo is a cliffside hotel (and so much more), offering gorgeous views of Lake and volcanoes. There's a day pass that gains you access to their amenities, so you don't have to be a guest. We'll discuss below. Our favorite way to access La Casa del Mundo is by the high trail, but you can get there directly by boat as they've got their own dock. Swimming here is a total must after a long hike.
Where to Stay in Jaibalito
Posada de Jaibalito (Hans's Place): The quintessential budget choice, this hostel/guesthouse run by a colorful expat (Hans) offers clean, super-cheap rooms and dorms (some beds for just a few dollars). It's set in a garden courtyard and also serves as the village café, dishing up hearty family-style meals (including famed German specials). The vibe is backpacker-friendly and communal – a great place to meet the handful of other travelers in town. No Lake views here, but the Posada is a stone's throw from the dock.
Vulcano Lodge: A charming boutique hotel set in lush gardens just outside the village. It features a handful of cozy rooms and bungalows, each with artistic touches, set amid coffee trees and flowers. There are hammocks for relaxing, and a highly regarded restaurant on-site serving farm-fresh dishes. Vulcano (sometimes called "El Jabalito" Lodge) is praised for its hospitality and the peaceful, nature-filled setting – an ideal mid-range retreat. Some rooms have partial Lake views through the foliage.
La Casa del Mundo: "Guatemala's most magical hotel," Casa del Mundo is perched on a cliffside a short walk from Jaibalito. It has breathtaking panoramic views from every room and terrace – each of its uniquely decorated stone rooms has a balcony overlooking the Lake. Guests rave about the family-style dinners by candlelight, the cliffside hot tub, and the ability to dive straight into the lake from the property. Though not the cheapest, it's a must-stay for many (accessible via a 10-minute walk on a footpath from Jaibalito dock or by request boat). Book early. They only have 19 rooms available.
Hotel y Restaurant Isla de los Sueños: A newer intimate guesthouse right in Jaibalito (name means "Island of Dreams"). With just a couple of rooms, it offers simplicity and a friendly local host. What makes it special is the rooftop terrace where you can lounge and gaze at the volcanoes. It's a budget-friendly alternative if Posada is full, providing a quiet night's sleep and home-cooked meals on request.
TZUNUNA
Getting to (and around) Tzununa
Very limited road access, apart from the rough and steep routes leading up to the top of the caldera and the larger town of Santa Clara. Lanchas (ferries) are 5 minutes east from San Marcos, 20 minutes from Pana. Hiking trails offer access to Santa Cruz (approx. 45 min walk). Headed to a retreat? You may be in for a hike.
Thoughts on Tzununa
Low-key Tzununa's tiny community sprawls lazily between San Marcos and Jaibalito. The name means hummingbird, and if high above the Lake hiking from San Marcos, you'll know you've reached Tzununa when you're passing through mountainside coffee trees. In recent years, the area's farming culture and crop varieties have exploded in diversity. Tzununa is also becoming a junior San Marcos, dotted with retreats – yoga and ecolodges – but without quite the intensity of hippie vibe.
The town itself is little more a collection of dense little neighborhoods, so there's not a ton to stroll and shop, aside from a few scattered eateries. But the secluded nature of Tzununa makes it a great spot to hole up at a retreat and commune with nature.
Lots of emphasis on living sustainably and holistic vibes. Incidentally, Tzununa feels like the best example (on Lake Atitlán) of a community meld between locals and newer arrivals.
What to do in Tzununa
If you are into farming, this is a great place to take a course on permaculture and to experience a wonderful organic farming operation at Atitlán Organics. Hiking trails are among the best (and some of the steepest) on this part of the Lake with sensational panoramas and long, circuitous routes climbing and dropping through all kinds of ecological zones. For mycophiles, the Fungi Academy offers comprehensive research and residency courses in the cultivation and importance of gourmet, medicinal, and psychedelic mushrooms. The retreats here are magical without being densely packed into the mountainside. Be aware that the terrain is steep. If you're coming by boat with a lot of luggage, there are a few people offering rides with pickup trucks, but tuk-tuks are limited.
Cascada Tzununa is a quaint, rock-face waterfall hike at the back of a canyon. A rough road higher up the canyon winds its way to a deeper, more secluded section of Tzununa where many dozens of hillside farms cover the canyon walls. Check out Atitlán Organics to learn about sustainable farming and volunteer. Take part in a temazcal "house of heat" indigenous sweat lodge ceremony. Experience workshops in a range of phytomedicine and natural healing techniques.
The lakeside is among the quietest on Lago Atitlán, great for a paddle or swim. Some of the lakeside lodges will offer water equipment for a fee to non-guests. And like many of the other villages on the Lake, shoreline trails connect the next towns over – east to Jaibalito or west to San Marcos. In the smaller towns, the trails can be quite challenging or less frequented, so you can always inquire about passability.
Where to Stay in Tzununa
We've tried to include a mix of easy-to-reach and remote, but the name of the game for most lodging in Tzununa is climb. Lots of steeps hills, but worthy views!
Granja Tz'ikin: A rustic permaculture farmstay hostel offering budget dorms and private huts amid gardens. Run by an Argentinian-Guatemalan family, it embodies eco-living – compost toilets, solar showers, and farm-to-table vegetarian meals. Guests can help in the garden or learn about the farm animals. It's basic but full of heart, perfect for backpackers or volunteers seeking a cultural exchange and an ultra-budget bed.
El Picnic Atitlán: A boutique glamping spot known for its geodesic domes and luxury tents perched on a hillside. Each dome/tent has a deck facing the Lake for glorious sunrise views. Bathrooms are shared but upscale, and a homemade breakfast "picnic" basket is included. El Picnic's secluded setting and Instagram-worthy design make it a favorite for glampers and couples who want nature with comfort. (Access requires a short but steep walk up from the main road, adding to the sense of retreat.)
Maya Moon Lodge: A lakeside eco-lodge with a relaxed, creative vibe. It features a range of options from thatched-roof bungalows to treehouse-like rooms, all with artistic touches. The lodge's open-air restaurant and bar is a community gathering spot, serving organic meals and hosting occasional live music. Volcano and Lake vistas from the dock and yoga platform are sublime. Maya Moon offers yoga classes and easy Lake access – you can paddle-board straight from their small beach. (Listed as a popular stay in Tzununa.)
Lomas de Tzununá: A well-established hillside hotel & retreat center known for its panoramic views. Guests climb 350+ steps to reach it but are rewarded with one of the most spectacular outlooks on the Lake. The rooms are airy with wooden furnishings and private balconies overlooking Volcán Tolimán. There's a pool and hot tub on-site, as well as yoga and meditation spaces. Lomas offers packages for wellness retreats, and its restaurant uses produce from their garden. It's an ideal upscale choice for tranquility.
SAN MARCOS LA LAGUNA
Getting to (and around) San Marcos La Laguna
By lancha (boat), San Marcos La Laguna is about 25 minutes from Pana. All westbound boats stop at the dock. Since travelers frequently come to San Marcos directly by way Antigua, there is a reliable mountain road used by shuttles (colectivos) that works well. But bear in mind, the village is compact.
So, if you're traveling with luggage, you may have to prepare for some walking navigation.
Getting to the villages east and west of San Marcos (San Pablo and Tzununa) can easily be done by tuk-tuk (clustered at the edge of town) over (mostly) dirt roads above the shoreline. Hiking to Tzununa over the mountain is challenging, but wonderful.
Thoughts on San Marcos La Laguna
No town on Lake Atitlán has perhaps more fully adopted the spiritual vibe than the hippie quarter in San Marcos. Nestled between San Pablo and Tzununa, and once a quiet farming village in the 60s and 70s, portions of the town near the Lake have been transformed from the dock inward. From the moment you get off the boat, you'll feel like you couldn't be farther from towns like San Pedro or Pana. Where some of the larger towns have morphed by the demands of tourism and its associated necessities, this part of San Marcos feels highly intentional.
For better or worse, the feeling of external investment is also readily apparent. New Age retreats and associated shopping dominate a dock area corralled by vine-covered walkways.
That's not to say San Marcos hasn't been intentional about preservation and sustainability as well. Building codes have been carefully written to keep towering resorts out and eco-conscious construction in. Noise curfews preserve the mellow vibe at night. Streets are a healthy mix of paved and unpaved, and the jungle village ambiance is ever-present. The town is a joy to walk through with lush garden walkways.
When you reach the interior of San Marcos, you'll get a sense of the real Guatemalan Highlands, especially in the neighborhoods around its central park. Cars are almost non-existent and tuk-tuks are few until you reach the edge of the touristed areas.
In many ways, the town is a melting pot. The New Age and Maya cultures are compatible here. That means no loud bars and nightclubs, but lots of communal spaces. Visitors and part-time residents hail from every corner of the globe. We heard numerous languages being spoken, and the cuisine offerings are diverse as well.
What to do in San Marcos La Laguna
Mornings are always high on my list of times to explore, but in San Marcos they're a special treat. The town's easy-going vibe means you'll have the streets, narrow pathways, and trails almost totally to yourself for a few hours after sunrise.
If you've come for body, mind, and spirit, you can't miss every type of business offering release and healing practices. From Reiki, cacao ceremonies, massage, sound baths, and yoga to numerous other disciplines, you can easily fill your days with classes or decompression activities and your evenings with drum circles, music, special performances, and dance.
The lakeside Tzankujil Nature Reserve is about a short walk from the main docks. Less about actual nature and more about walks, sacred Maya altars, bench viewpoints, and hiking. You'll do well to remember your bathing suit, small change for an entry fee (20Q), and plenty of sunscreen.
Swimmers and water bugs will enjoy plenty of places to access the lake, including a pretty sensational 12m (40f) high diving/jumping platform! If you're going for kayaking or paddle boarding, be sure to get there early to take advantage of the placid waters. Some of the rentals will cease as the wind picks up.
La Nariz del Indio (Indian Nose) is a popular, semi-challenging and fairly quick sunrise hike to the top of the mountain rock outcropping. There is a longer version (2 hours) that takes you around the high shoreline. We used the All Trails app nonstop when trekking around this area. Bear in mind, portions of the trail run through different parcels of private land.
Depending on the time of day, landowners keep sections of the trail staffed and charge a small use fee.
This is one of the only trails we took that required a fee, but it's so worth it.
Where to Eat in San Marcos La Laguna
Fresh fruit and vegetables are plentiful owing to the farms dotting the hillside, including the vast growing areas in neighboring Tzununa, which ply their bounty on and around the streets of San Marcos. Along with San Pedro, this town features probably the most comprehensive selection of eateries, from breakfast, pastry, snacks, lunch & dinner. We've tried to hit a little of everything over our time at Atitlán, but we've also tried some of the more popular spots, too.
Giardino: (We go for breakfast) Vibe is garden oasis with hammocks and sunshine. Hearty breakfast sets, omelets, fresh-squeezed juices, herbal teas. A tranquil space to ease into your day, with consistently solid food.
Café Florest: (We go for breakfast) Vibe is jungle hut meets Euro café. Avocado toast, muesli bowls, sourdough, and espresso drinks. Cozy, lush setting and strong coffee.
Shambhala Café: (We go for breakfast and tea) Vibe is spiritual and artsy. Vegan breakfasts, smoothie bowls, Ayurvedic teas. Attached to a meditation and retreat center.
Circles Café & Bakery: (We go for baked yums) Vibe is welcoming and earthy, a San Marcos institution. Wood-fired baked goods, cinnamon rolls, vegan pastries, excellent coffee. Fresh, natural, and always buzzing with travelers and locals.
Moonfish Café: (We go for snacks) Vibe is minimalist, typically quiet. Iced coffees, shakshuka, sourdough grilled cheese, gluten-free options. Low-key place to work or relax, with lake views from the back.
Cafe Kula Maya: (We go for drip coffee and chocolate) Vibe is eclectic, artistic energy with jungle views. Guatemalan beans, specialty lattes, chocolate drinks. Ethically sourced ingredients and a handmade feel.
Comedor Konojel: (We go for inexpensive lunch) Vibe is simple, local-run project supporting nutrition in the community. Nutritious vegetarian lunches, Guatemalan dishes with a healthy twist. Proceeds go toward local families.
Sababa San Marcos: (We go for lunch and snacks) Vibe is fun, Middle Eastern-inspired with colorful décor. The original location is on San Pedro, but this spot is a bit more chill. Same falafel wraps, hummus, big mezze plates, smoothies.
Blind Lemon’s: (We go for a higher-end dinner treat) Vibe is classic bohemian with live music and fire pits. Grilled meats, burgers, pastas, and creative cocktails. Atmospheric courtyard and often hosts music or poetry nights.
Restaurant at Lush Atitlán: (We go for fancy pantsing dinner) Vibe is upscale, eco-luxury (is that an oxymoron?) with views. Gourmet vegetarian and pescatarian dishes, tasting menus, local wines. Artisanally prepared meals in a serene garden lodge setting.
Where to Stay in San Marcos La Laguna
Hostels and solo-room studios abound for ultra-inexpensive stays. Beware the accommodations that bill themselves as ecolodges and end up being high-priced gimmicks. There are plenty of ways and place to stay in San Marcos, to be both part of the action or away from the maddening crowds.
The tourist quarter is pretty tightly connected to the dock area, with additional hotels/lodges scattered throughout the area. As you've probably guessed from the write-up so far, walking is the name of the game so you might want to ditch the roller bag in favor of a backpack.
ATI Hostel & Beach Club (formerly Hostel del Lago): Budget travelers' top choice, recently revamped. This hostel sits right on the Lake with its own little beach area and dock. It offers dorms and private rooms, free breakfast, and daily yoga classes for guests. The communal spaces – a garden, firepit, and waterfront lounge – encourage meeting others. With beautiful views of Volcán San Pedro across the water, ATI Hostel captures the quintessential San Marcos backpacker vibe (and quiets down at night for good sleep).
Casa Ahua: A serene budget hostel up the hill, nestled in the forest. Staying here feels like being in a treehouse oasis. Dorm beds are single mattresses (not bunks) and there are airy private rooms, all surrounded by greenery. It's a bit removed from the Lake (no Lake views) but offers tranquility and plenty of hammocks to chill. Guests love the free hearty breakfast and the fact that it's away from the main footpaths – a quiet retreat after a day of workshops.
Lush Atitlán: An artistic mid-range boutique hotel highly popular for its design and comfort. True to its name, Lush is set in a lush garden, and each room is uniquely decorated with natural materials and vibrant mosaics. Many rooms have views over the Lake and balconies. It's located just above the Lake shore, giving it a peaceful ambiance yet it's only a minute from cafes. Couples and solo travelers alike praise Lush's attention to detail, from comfortable beds to the complimentary coffee delivered each morning on your patio.
Kula Maya Boutique Hotel & Spa: A newer upscale option right on the waterfront. Kula Maya offers chic, modern suites with huge windows facing the volcanoes, plus a spa that offers massages and temazcal (Maya sauna). The property has an infinity plunge pool and is only a short walk to the town center/dock. With stylish decor and on-site fine dining, it's bringing a touch of luxury to San Marcos while still blending with the village's laid-back feel.
SAN PABLO LA LAGUNA
Not a tourist town, San Pablo is a locals-only hamlet through which chicken buses and tuk-tuks coming from Santa Clara above pass on their way to San Marcos and San Juan. Lots of working class and farming.
Well worth a stroll, and you can make the shoreline hike from San Marcos to San Juan, passing through San Pablo, a gorgeous trek of about 7km.
SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA
Getting to (and around) in San Juan La Laguna
Just under 2km from San Pedro, connected by paved road, most travelers reach San Juan via the docks at San Pedro, before taking a tuk-tuk (5-10 min). You can reach San Juan by boat, but the stops here are less frequent and become even more infrequent as the day progresses.
It's worth noting, if you're trying to get to one of these smaller towns, you may have to request them specifically. In most cases, if they're very near to larger stops, you'll have to content yourself with a trek along the shore or short tuk-tuk ride, especially if you're carrying luggage or traveling around dusk.
Thoughts on San Juan La Laguna
Adjacent to lovably seedy backpacker haven of San Pedro, Tz'utujil heritage is strongly represented in San Juan. The hamlet features grassy shores and market-lined walking areas. While fairly small, the town makes up for its diminutive footprint by being a lovely cultural stop. Streets are adorned with ornate decorations, from dangling ornamental clay pots and colorful umbrellas to painted sidewalks, murals, and handsome tile work throughout the city center.
Residing in a box canyon carved into the westernmost end of the Lake, San Juan is relatively sleepy compared to its noisy-nighted nearby neighbor. And perhaps it's due to its San Pedro proximity that the community has tried to control its brand of tourism. Here, rather than nightspots, you'll find organic communal coffee production and a fantastic women's weaving cooperative.
Nowhere on the Lake is the syncretism of Maya-Christian religious history perhaps more well-preserved than here in San Juan. The town features an impressive array of churches. If you're there on my birthday (June 24), there are lovely events celebrating… no, not me, but Saint Juan Batista, the town's patron saint and namesake.
What to do in San Juan La Laguna
If you've hiked into San Juan from the east as we initially did, you'll see a sudden onslaught of pedestrians heading toward you along the outskirts of town, before veering toward a steep ascent. The colorful Mirador Kaqasiiwaan offers a fantastic view overlooking the Lake. You can even see a sliver of San Pedro from here. There's plenty of artwork – sculptures, murals, painted woodwork – along a vibrant deck.
Plenty of intrepid folks make their way up here for sunrise and sunset and it's a great place to meet fellow travelers or catch the occasional art installation. Tuk-Tuk rides are also available, so fret not if you're on weary legs.
As mentioned, weaving and textiles are an important part of the area's Maya heritage. Workshops provide the opportunity to get a hands-on experience with growing cotton, natural dyeing, and weaving on looms that have furnished the fabrics of several generations of Tz'utujil people.
Coffee cultivation tours are also popular in the area. One of the best in Lake Atitlán is pretty immersive. La Voz Que Clama en el Desierto offers a tour of bee-keeping and textiles-weaving culture, in addition to the coffee harvesting and roasting experience. The tour can be accessed from San Pedro. Tour operators will arrange to pick you up at the dock, where you'll take a short jaunt by boat to San Juan. The tour is especially cool because you get a little history of colorful San Juan La Laguna while walking the streets and learning about the communal farms of the indigenous Mayan Tz'utujiles. It's highly recommended to go during coffee harvest season December through March to get the full experience. Tours are about 100-150Q.
If you prefer a more intimate, family coffee operation check out Café Las Marias here in San Juan. A much smaller operation, there's a decidedly chiller vibe. If you request it, there's also a chocolate-making process that's fascinating.
Once you've begun seeing (and tasting) San Juan honey throughout town, you'll be inclined to visit the stingless Maya bees and their keepers at the Mundo de Abejas. I used to keep bees myself, and of all the honey varietals I've sampled, I've never tasted honey quite like this.
Speaking of tastes, Guatemalan chocolate is divine. Bean to bar operations like the one in San Juan at the women-owned Licor Marron are a treat. And for about $5, you can learn to roast locally-grown cacao and be involved in the chocolate-making process.
The Indian Nose hike is reachable from San Juan's side of the rocky outcropping. The trailhead is above the town of Santa Clara at the top of the Lake's caldera, but tour operators service San Juan if you're interested in making the pre-sunrise pilgrimage. Like many other spots on the lake, this is also a great place to swim and partake in sports-of-the-water.
Where to Stay in San Juan La Laguna
Eco-Hotel Mayachik': A rustic eco-lodge/hostel on the hillside above town, popular with backpackers and volunteers. It features adobe bungalows and dorms in a garden setting, with compost toilets, a yoga studio, and a vegetarian café on site. MayAchik' is run collectively and offers a temazcal (herbal sauna) and activities like weaving classes. It's very affordable and gives a taste of permaculture living – expect friendly vibes and basic comforts.
Eco Hotel Uxlabil Atitlán: A lakeside eco-hotel with outstanding San Pedro volcano views. Built with traditional design in mind, Uxlabil has cozy rooms decorated with local textiles; each has a balcony or porch. The hotel is set right by the water in the quieter part of San Juan, so you can hear the waves. Guests love the included breakfasts on the terrace and the hotel's small dock – perfect for a morning swim or kayak. It's "eco-chic" yet unpretentious and employs solar power and sustainable practices. Great mid-range choice for tranquility and authenticity.
Hotel Taa' Tiin: A family-run hotel a short walk uphill from the center, offering simple but comfortable rooms and a touch of local flavor. It's known for its warm hospitality – the staff often help arrange tours or a traditional Maya sauna (temazcal) for guests. Rooms are clean with hot showers, and there's a garden and rooftop with views of town. The hotel is also praised for feeling "authentically Guatemalan" and even has its own small steam room for guests, making it a unique stay in San Juan.
Hotel Pa Muelle: This quaint hotel (whose name means "By the Dock") sits on the hillside just above the boat pier. It boasts well-kept gardens and several terraces with hammocks, all overlooking the Lake. Rooms are basic but very clean, and many have Lake-facing balconies. What sets Pa Muelle apart is the friendly local owners and the convenient location – steps from where you arrive by boat though elevated enough for views. It's also known for a good cup of local coffee in the morning with a vista. A solid, affordable option with a great location in town.
SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA
Getting to (and around) San Pedro La Laguna
Though among the farthest towns from Pana, many boats make frequent, direct trips to San Pedro due to its popularity and size (13,000 people). Rides from Pana take about 45 minutes, or 20-30 minutes from Atitlán's largest lakeside town, Santiago Atitlán. The town is also easily reachable by road. If it's your ultimate destination, you can arrange to have your shuttle take you straight here via Antigua or Guatemala City. There's even a small bus terminal.
Thoughts on San Pedro La Laguna
At the foot of the 3,020 m volcano bearing its name, San Pedro is a backpacker's hub for expats and wannabes alike.
Near the water, the lakeshore "Gringo trail" features two main sections – one near the docks and one along the bay looking toward San Juan – with plenty of grubby-to-good eateries, hostels, cafes, and bars, bars, bars.
Little of the town's history is evident in the more touristed quarters, but if you're young, looking for a lakeside party, and eager to meet people from all over the world (especially Europe and Israel), this is the spot on Lago Atitlán. One of the other perks of San Pedro is access to more of the western amenities than at almost any other destination on the Lake. Do your laundry, get a decent international meal, and learn Spanish!
San Pedro's lower town charm is a hotly debated topic. It has definitely taken a turn for the seedy over the years, but maybe that is part of its allure. Fairly safe – maybe avoid a drunkenly stagger through some of the more poorly lit alleys in the wee hours – San Pedro is at its most fun after sunset. There is always something going on, from dancing to karaoke… and more.
While I appreciate the tourist quarters for what they are, there's little sense of community investment in beautification.
With a few notable exceptions, nightlife areas are like the room in a house that's been fully child-proofed and where the toddlers have taken over the asylum.
Along particularly narrow alleyways, you may spend a healthy portion of your walk dodging robust piles of dog poop. The power went out in town during our most recent visit, and the city walks were alight in candles with folks making the best of it.
The moment you get outside of the lower town into the outer edges and especially higher in San Pedro La Laguna where locals live, all that Guatemalan Highland charm is visible in abundance.
What to do in San Pedro La Laguna
Want to know the best way to meet people and make lifelong friends in San Pedro La Laguna (and greater Atitlán)? Book yourself into a cooking class with Anita. Around the corner from the main docks, Anita's Mayan Kitchen Cooking Class is a complete blast.
Hiking Volcán San Pedro is a great challenge (3-4 hours w/ guide) through levels and levels of coffee plantations and cloud forest. As you can imagine, the views from the summit are [fill-in-your-superlative]-taking. If you're going to do it, the hike generally gets underway around 4am.
Coffee cultivation tours are also popular in the area. One of the best in Lake Atitlán is pretty immersive. La Voz Que Clama en el Desierto offers a tour of bee-keeping and textiles-weaving culture, in addition to the coffee harvesting and roasting experience. The tour can be accessed from San Pedro. Tour operators will arrange to pick you up at the dock, where you'll take a short jaunt by boat to San Juan. The tour is especially cool because you get a little history of colorful San Juan La Laguna while walking the streets and learning about the communal farms of the indigenous Mayan Tz'utujiles. It's highly recommended to go during coffee harvest season December through March to get the full experience.
There's plenty of stand-up paddleboarding and kayak rentals along the shore or possibly included as part of your lodging. Because this is an extremely busy area on the water, be extra cautious about where you swim. The smaller boats come in hot and it's hard to see a head bobbing in deep blue waters. Also, don't be alarmed if you're sharing the waterside with locals who've come down to gossip and wash their clothes.
For a more chill experience, check out Rancho Moises. We stumbled upon this horseback tour when several riders suddenly appeared on a street just outside San Pedro's tourist quarter.
And now… because serenity is not a notable element – except for the outer fringes where there are some great, chill hangs – San Pedro nightlife is the principal attraction we'll discuss below via some recs.
Where to Hang & Meet People in San Pedro La Laguna
Sublime Bar: Vibe is lively, friendly, and sociable. It's probably the most popular bar in town right now. Located right on the lakeshore, Sublime hosts regular events like open mic nights, karaoke, and DJ parties. There's a dance floor, cheap cocktails, and a super social atmosphere—great for meeting fellow travelers. Fire shows, wild theme nights, and staying open late.
Zoola San Pedro: Vibe is laid-back by day, party by night. This hostel/bar/restaurant has cozy floor seating, hookahs, Middle Eastern food, and a chill vibe that turns upbeat as the night wears on. Often hosts drum circles, fire dancing, and impromptu dance sessions. A slightly bohemian crowd and great shisha.
Mr. Mullet's Hostel Bar: Vibe is backpacker party HQ. Even if you're not staying here, their bar is open to all and famous for its beer pong, pub quizzes, and happy hour deals. It's often the pregame spot before heading to Sublime or Zoola. Themed nights, free shots, and rowdy fun. Expect lots of Aussies, Brits, and solo travelers.
Bar Mikaso (at Mikaso Hotel): Vibe is relaxed, scenic, mature crowd. If you want a drink without a hangover, Mikaso's rooftop bar is perfect. It's ideal for catching sunset over the Lake with a cocktail or glass of wine. Low-key atmosphere, great views, French crepes, and quiet company.
The Alegre Pub: Vibe is cozy and casual. Tucked away off the tourist strip, this Irish-style pub has pool tables, foosball, and strong drinks. It's quieter than Sublime but still social—great for chatting with locals and long-term expats. Craft beer (rare in San Pedro!), good jukebox music, and pub quizzes.
Where to Eat in San Pedro La Laguna
This is one of the more happening towns, so there are many, many options for food and café. Some are downright terrible with excellent marketing. Some are downright delicious with terrible marketing. Some are easily overlooked. Some look great when you show up but you're unsure.
Good news! We've done the sorting to make things a bit easier. Bonus for good Israeli food, since we don't often find it. And don't worry. These aren't just our picks, even though we've got excellent taste
Idea Connection: (We Go For: Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner)
Chill garden café, hot spot for digi-nomad types. Big healthy breakfasts (smoothie bowls, omelets, avocado toast), French press coffee, and peaceful vibes. Gorgeous courtyard, Wi-Fi, vegan/vegetarian options. Cozy, creative dishes on a budget. Falafel burger, veggie curries, large smoothies. Affordable, well-portioned, flavorful meals in a decent atmosphere.
The Fifth Dimension: (We Go For: Breakfast):
Peaceful, tucked-away vegetarian spot. Banana pancakes, creative egg dishes, fresh juice blends. Holistic vibe, kind staff, and spiritual touches like crystal water and chill music.
El Barrio: (We go For: Sunday Brunch/Special Event)
Social and festive. Huge portions, bottomless coffee, American-style breakfast (eggs, hashbrowns, bacon, funky pancakes). Affordable and tasty with a fun, community brunch vibe. If you're in town on Sunday, this place will put the tiger back in your tank. I'm still not 100% sure what that means. But my dad used to say it, so I think it applies.
Café Cristalinas: (We go For: Drip Coffee)
For the adventurous, a tranquil roastery café in the local part of town. Locally grown and roasted coffee, hand-poured brews, cold brew, and chocolate drinks. Family-run, educational about the coffee process, often includes a mini coffee tasting or farm connection. Hard to dispute the claims of "best coffee in town".
Sublime Café: (We go for: Everything)
Lakefront with comfy seating and blazin' Wi-Fi. Cappuccinos, fresh bakery items, chocolate banana bread. A great place to stare right down into the Lake with your java in hand. Kind of a see-and-be-seen sort of place.
Café Atitlán: (We go For: Coffee/Snack)
Hidden gem with a nice view. Guatemalan beans, espresso drinks, grilled sandwiches. Sometimes quiet, artsy feel and decent value.
Comedor Elenita (We Go For: Breakfast/Lunch)
No-frills, local favorite for Guatemalan food. Essentially a set menu (desayuno típico, almuerzo), soup and main dish for under Q25 ($3). Authentic, hearty portions, family-run spot. Sometimes a line but fast-moving.
Sababa Restaurant: (We go For: All Day)
Stylish and modern with a lakeside view. Middle Eastern–inspired fare, epic shakshuka, cocktails and craft beer. Nice setting, elevated flavors, rooftop tables. But also, eerily fun to spot contenders for worst hangover.
Zoola Restaurant: (We go For: All Day)
Cozy lounge with low tables and cushions, Israeli/vegetarian menu. Shakshuka, hummus platters, curries, soups, big mezze spreads. Unique ambiance, firepits, and excellent food for sharing.
Where to Stay in San Pedro La Laguna
We'll divide these into two classes: For those who can sleep through the noise and for those who need solitude and quiet time.
Mr. Mullet's Hostel: Arguably the most famous party hostel on Lake Atitlán. Mr. Mullet's has become an institution for backpackers. It offers dorms and a few privates at rock-bottom prices, free breakfast, and an on-site bar that hosts themed parties (the legendary Pub Quiz and Beer Pong nights). Socializing is guaranteed – it's loud and lively, not for light sleepers. However, many solo travelers love it for its friendly atmosphere and easy ability to make friends. The location is central in the action (just off the main strip). If you're up for fun, this is your spot.
Mikaso Hotel: A pleasant budget hotel at the quieter end of town (by the Santiago dock). Mikaso is set right on the water and features a rooftop terrace with panoramic views and even a couple of Jacuzzi tubs for guests. Rooms range from dorms to private studios with kitchens, all clean and simple. It's known for strong Wi-Fi (fiber optic) and being digital-nomad friendly. The on-site French café serves tasty crepes and coffee. Mikaso is perfect for those who want a peaceful stay in San Pedro – you can sleep well but still be 10 minutes' walk from the nightlife.
Plus, you can swim or kayak directly from their small dock (and watch stunning sunsets).
Sababa Resort – A popular mid-range hotel and hostel hybrid, Sababa stands out for its gorgeous design and amenities. It's 5 minutes from the main dock yet tucked into a lakeside hill, giving it sweeping views of town and Lake. Sababa's signature feature is its fabulous pool with a rope swing and sun beds, framed by boho-chic décor – extremely photogenic and fun.
They have dorms (in stylish minimal design, around $30) and private rooms, plus include a big breakfast. Morning yoga sessions, lakeside hammocks, and an on-site restaurant make it a place you may not want to leave. Sababa manages to cater to backpackers and couples alike, and it consistently ranks as one of San Pedro's best stays (it's often fully booked due to high demand).
Casa Lobo Bungalows: A boutique eco-property offering a tranquil escape from the bustle. Located on the outskirts (in the coffee hills about 10–15 min walk or short tuk-tuk from center), Casa Lobo features just three luxurious bungalows and a couple of apartments, all hand-painted and uniquely furnished. Each bungalow has a king or queen bed, kitchenette, and private patio – ideal for couples or families seeking comfort and privacy. The property boasts an inviting pool with panoramic views and even a sauna in the lush garden. Guests report that waking up to birds and picking fruit in the garden feels a world away from downtown. Casa
Lobo is perfect if you want San Pedro's convenience but a peaceful haven at day's end.
Hotel Casa Don Pedro: Great value with a turquoise pool and jacuzzi near the Santiago docks.
Hotel Sak'cari El Amanecer: Lakeside mid-range hotel known for lovely gardens and views, plus a lakeside hot tub.
SANTIAGO ATITLÁN
Getting to (and around) Santiago Atitlán
You can get here by boat or road. If you're coming from Guatemala City and/or Antigua, road is fastest (3.5 hours). Because of that, boats from Pana are actually less frequent than one might imagine. It's far more convenient to access the city via it's connection to the main highway.
The city is very hilly, and roads are narrow, so once you're there, you'll see more tuk-tuks than anything. Negotiate the fare in advance.
Our Thoughts on Santiago Atitlán
Really cool, bustling, working-class town. This is the biggest (city) on the Lake, with its population of 50k mas o menos. Super compact, and while not especially touristy, there are numerous sites of interest if you're keen on Guatemalan culture, especially that of Maya history and its often fraught relationship with what came after.
For orienting yourself on the Lake, Santiago Atitlán located on the far southern shore, tucked halfway into a deep bay between the San Pedro and Tolimán volcanoes.
The town is mostly Tz'utujil Maya with a wild history. In fact, pre-colonially this area was the capital of the Tz'utujil kingdom.
Some serious battles have been fought here, not just during the Spanish conquest, but with Kaqchikel forces as well. Right up to 1990, the area has seen its share of strife.
This is the site of the Santiago Atitlán massacre occurred here, marking a huge turning point (and unlikely expulsion of the army garrison) with respect to the military's role in Guatemala and its relationship with the indigenous people.
What to do in Santiago Atitlán
This is a great place to visit if you want to find great Guatemala-Maya artisan crafts. Way better than the touristy mass-produced stuff you can find in more heavily touristed areas. The woodwork and textiles are varied and incredibly worth the chaos of the tight little city to stop in and see.
Fridays and Saturdays are the best day to visit SA's market. It's not on the level of the Chichi market but is a great alternative when you're staying on the Lake. Tons of fruits, vegetables, meats… tons of beautiful flowers everywhere… vibrant huipiles ("wee-peel") – the traditional tunic worn by indigenous women, along with their purple-striped skirts.
Santiago Atitlán is also the (current) home of Maximón, the folk saint shrine revered by the local Maya. I say current because, per custom, his location will rotate with different regional caretakers.
Naturally, given the historical importance of the area to the Maya, it just had to be given special import by the Spanish. As such, you will find one of the oldest Catholic churches around (1547) Iglesia Parroquial Santiago. Little known fact, there's a tomb of an American priest who was beloved in the community and martyred in 1981.
With its close proximity to two volcanoes, the super ambitious can arrange summit hikes with guides. For the birder in your life – we all have them or become them – the Posada de Santiago hotel organizes birding walks. The area is replete with hummingbird species.
The traditional textile manufacturing is a special treat, which I've saved for last. There are many cooperatives popping up around the country, and the Atitlán chapter is wonderful. Check out Cooperativa Mujeres de la Tierra if you'd like to arrange a viewing and tour, demonstration or classes. The handmade fabrics are becoming increasingly subsumed by machine work, so it's well worth your time to get a look at the real thing.
What to Eat in Santiago Atitlán
A good question and worthy quest if you're looking for authentic Guatemalan Highland street fare. And where there's a market, there's awesome street food. Pescaíto Frito (fried fish) and atol (hot corn smoothie) can be found in and around the market. Fresh fruit is everywhere. Massive, stuffed chuchitos (think tamales) and rellenitos are among my personal favorites, washed down with an elote atol.
Where to Stay in Santiago Atitlán
While most travelers will do the day-trip thing to Santiago, if you're planning a stay-over to get your culture on, there are a couple of decent places to stay conveniently.
Posada de Santiago: A semi-renowned boutique hotel featuring stone cottages on the Lake's edge. This posada is frequently highlighted by guidebooks for its charm and comfort. The cottages have fireplaces, tasteful rustic décor, and volcano or garden views. The lush grounds include a pool, hot tub, and lakeside gazebo. The on-site restaurant is excellent, serving both local and international dishes (and famous pies). It's slightly out of the town center (about 1 km), which affords tranquility. Many guests call this their favorite stay on the Lake for its peaceful ambiance and hospitality. (It's also where you can learn a lot about local culture – the American owner is deeply involved in the community.)
Hotel & Restaurante Bambu: A beautiful lakefront hotel set in tropical gardens on the outskirts of town (near Panabaj). Often just called Hotel Bambu, it offers thatched-roof bungalows and rooms with traditional art and private patios. The property has a swimming pool with volcano views and a lakeside pier. Guests love the serene setting away from the busy center (it's about 5 minutes by tuk-tuk), the lakefront hammocks, and the on-site crafts shop. The restaurant specializes in local fish and organic veggies from their garden. It's a top choice for those who want comfort and nature – as one reviewer said, "a piece of paradise...with outstanding views."
Hotel Tiosh Abaj: A larger local hotel resort located along the lakeshore just east of town. Tiosh Abaj has a range of rooms from standard to suites, many with Lake views, set amid landscaped grounds. It features an expansive outdoor pool (with a waterslide popular with kids), a sauna/steam room and a small private beach area. The architecture incorporates hand-crafted stone and wood, giving it character. While it's a bit dated in parts, it's very family-friendly and even hosts events like weddings. The on-site restaurant and bar make it a convenient all-in-one option. "Relaxing retreat with Lake Atitlán views" aptly describes it – a place to unwind with modern comforts and still be a quick tuk-tuk ride from the town's sights.
SAN LUCAS TOLIMÁN
Getting to (and around) San Lucas Tolimán
Roads are the best way in and out of San Lucas Tolimán. The Pacific highway (CA-2) has a turn-off that goes directly toward the Lake and the town. It's less than 3 hours drive from Guatemala City. Daily chicken buses travel via Escuintla to San Lucas out of the city and/or Antigua.
If you're coming from another destination on the Lake, there isn't a regular schedule from Pana or elsewhere. Hiring a private boat to get there is straightforward and not too expensive. Tuk-tuks can be found in San Lucas but are not nearly as common as elsewhere. But you won't necessarily need one. The place is perfect for a walk-about. However, if you're planning to visit one of the local fincas that offer coffee tours, you will have to arrange a ride. Some of the fincas offer pickups, so inquire when you book.
Our Thoughts on San Lucas Tolimán
We've come all the way around to the far southeast corner of Lago Atitlán. This side of the Lake gets skipped in favor of the more popular destinations on the opposite side of the Lake, but at the base of Tolimán volcano, San Lucas is unique.
Since it lies on a flatter plain, it was something of an agricultural hub. Unfortunately, much of the coffee growing and roasting has moved on, but there are still some estates and old re-purposed processing plants in town.
In addition to be predominately Kaqchikel, there is a non-indigenous ladino minority who call San Lucas home. The town is largely quiet, with an undeveloped waterfront. Lots of folks tending fields of corn and onions.
What's unique about San Lucas is that people are especially friendly, even for Lake Atitlán. That really saying something in super-hospitable Guatemala.
What to do in San Lucas Tolimán
Bring your small denominations because we're leaving the world of ATMs and Tap-to-Pay behind. There is a lovely natural hike located a few kilometers outside the town proper. Tzantizotz Nature Reserve is supervised by Laguna Lodge Eco-Boutique Resort. The reserve's trails are well-tended.
You may not see any of the bats for which the place is named, but there are really neat rock formations, a host of interesting ecological zones and mini-forests unlike anywhere else on the Lake, and as always, some spectacular viewpoints. Mirador Rey Tepepul is one of the better viewpoints, giving you a wide panorama of the southern side of the Llake.
Finca Coffee Tours are few, but among the best on the Lake. Check out Finca Tolimán, among others.
One of the biggest treats if you just so happen to be visiting in October is San Lucas's celebration of Festival Patronal. There are traditional dances and fairs, and you might get to see a Maya folk performance of Dance of the Conquest. There is hardly any better way to find yourself immersed fully in the well-preserved and beautiful cultural history of the Guatemalan Highlands. Gorgeous outfits and lots of happy, friendly folks.
Several of Lago Atitlán's villages are known for organic, sustainable farming cooperatives but only one hosts a school dedicated to Highlands permaculture. The school, the Mesoamerican Institute of Permaculture, is open to the public for tours and exploration. Its mission is devoted to promoting food security (the awesome term is food sovereignty) and cultivation independence for local Guatemalans. I can hardly think of a concern more worthy of a special visit to San Lucas Tolimán.
Where to Stay in San Lucas Tolimán
Hotel Tolimán: The principal hotel in town, this family-run hotel is set on what used to be an old coffee finca's grounds. Rooms are rustic yet comfortable, some in the converted historic buildings (with high ceilings and wooden beams). The hotel's standout features are its extensive gardens and lake-view pool – a serene environment often mentioned by guests.
They grow organic vegetables used in their restaurant, which serves excellent local and international fare. There's a small dock and free kayaks for guests to explore the calm end of the Lake. Hotel Tolimán also actively supports local community projects, which enhances its warm reputation. It's often praised as a "hidden gem" where you can truly unwind, enjoy volcano vistas, and savor freshly brewed local coffee on the terrace.
Hotel y Restaurante Tz'utujil: A simple lakeside hotel right in town (near the main dock). It offers basic but clean rooms, some with balconies peeking at the Lake. The attached restaurant is one of the few in town catering somewhat to visitors – it serves tasty grilled fish and has cold beers, popular with passing NGO workers or travelers. While not luxurious, it's convenient and friendly. Notably, it's listed on Expedia as a popular option alongside Hotel Tolimán and Hotel Iquitiu. Choose this if you want an economical stay in the center, walking distance to everything.
Hotel Iquitiu: A newer small hotel (opened in recent years) that has become a top pick in San Lucas for those who find it. Rooms are modern and well-furnished by local standards, some with A/C and TVs which is uncommon around the Lake. The hotel is a couple of blocks from the park, offering quiet at night. What sets Iquitiu apart is the service – reviews note the staff go above and beyond (arranging coffee tours, accommodating late check-ins).
There's also a temazcal available for guests (they advertise aromatherapy steam baths). It's considered "the best service in San Lucas Tolimán" by some. This is a great mid-range choice with local flavor and comfort.
Casa Qatzij Guest House: A budget guesthouse/hostel catering to backpackers or volunteers. Casa Qatzij is essentially a large house near the center that offers private rooms and dorm beds at very low cost. It has a communal kitchen, a garden with hammocks, and a rooftop terrace with volcano views. The vibe is homely – travelers might stay here while working on projects in town.
Don't expect hotel amenities, but you can expect a communal feel and helpful hosts (the project was founded in 2020 to support various types of travelers, including families and digital nomads). If you're traveling on a shoestring and want to meet locals or missionaries, this is the place. Plus, its terrace is a wonderful spot to watch Volcán Atitlán's cone in the sunrise.
Oh my god, we did it. We covered the Lake. We've properly experienced the Guatemalan Highlands at Lake Atitlán. The great thing about this guide is that you can take a few weeks and conquer it, or even better, revisit the region again and again. There is so much to see and do; the cultural immersion is outstanding; the tourist vibe is warm and inviting; the geography is otherworldly!
Naturally, if we've overlooked something or if you want to share one of your favorite spots on the Lake, please do. All you have to do is mention Atitlán in conversation and eyes mist over with fondness. There's no place like it.
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