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- Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik
Whether you come for history or fantasy, how you meet Dubrovnik is up to you. It’s the rare destination that feels borrowed from another time—a medieval, storybook time capsule that won’t stop tugging at your inner child’s sleeve. I spent the bus ride from Split to Dubrovnik feeling smug. I wasn’t about to go swoony over a city just because it starred in the most-watched fantasy show on earth. Not me. No sir. Meanwhile, the real Dubrovnik—dripping with history—sat at the hinge of the realest of real empires: Byzantine, Venetian, Ottoman, and the hugely-chinned Habsburgs! It hosted Napoleon, weathered Rome’s shadow, had the third-biggest navy in Europe (!), and grew into a merchant republic carved from awesome arrogance out of sea-beaten cliffs. History! Yes, please! Then we arrived. That damned theme music began tinkling in the back of my mind. My first thought: If I don’t immediately find the spot where Prince Oberyn fought the Mountain, I’m throwing myself over these walls and into the Adriatic. Sigh. Ugh. I’ll just say it. I’m a sucker for anything that looks remotely like a castle. Heck, just give me a few ramparts and I’m g2g. Alas, thank God for my wife. She’s the perfect counter-balance. She works fiber and leafy greens into our flavor-questing and museum tickets into our urban wanderings. Ah, but the plot twist. A week earlier, wedged in an Honest Greens bathroom in Portugal, we found ourselves staring down at the blue plus sign on a pregnancy test. We hugged. We celebrated. We hit the road again, overwhelmed but bursting with excitement. To Southern Croatia for the perfect Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik … where morning sickness promptly tracked us down. Now, look. When your normally steadfast Travel Rock stumbles, you circle the wagons and defend the nest. (What even are those words?) The last thing you do is load her up with a bulk purchase of ramen noodles (because that’s the only thing she can stomach) and sneak off to stalk the city walls with your arms spread, whispering “Draaacarrrysss!” Sooo, I’m stalking Old Town from high above on the city walls and…Okay, my wife is telling me I need to get on with our Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik, so here goes. FLASH TRIP : 3 FANTASTICAL DAYS IN DUBROVNIK INDEX Jump To: When to Go to Dubrovnik Arrival Information & Getting Around Special Note for Parents Traveling with Kids Where to Stay in Dubrovnik Where to Eat in Dubrovnik Your Fantastical 3-Day Itinerary · Day 1: Dubrovnik’s Old Town · Day 2: Getting Outside the Walls · Day 3: Day Trips From Dubrovnik When to go to Dubrovnik It gets hot in Dubrovnik. Downright steamy. We’re advising lots of sunblock and solid headwear, breathable clothes, and preferably a breeze. When cruise ships are running, Dubrovnik is a mob scene. That’s why, if you can visit during whatever resembles an off-season these days, that’s what we recommend. Unless you’re one of those people on that cruise, in which case, uh, hello! Now, post-cruise season can raise another concern: weather. The wind known as the bora starts up in November. For folks who hope to explore the islands along Croatia’s coast, this is a pain in tail because the choppy seas interrupt ferry traffic. We went just before the start of the bora, which proved magical. If you don’t mind the occasional storm, it’s completely worth it. Old Town is… less busy and the sites are considerably easier to access. If you’d like to add some sunbathing, swimming, and beach time while you’re visiting – and still want to avoid the peak of tourist season – aim for Late May to mid-June when sea temperatures just start becoming comfortable, or Mid-September to early October. The Adriatic stays fairly warm into early fall. Arriving in Dubrovnik By Plane: Dubrovnik’s airport (DBV) is about 12 miles (20km) south of the city. It takes on average, about 30 minute to get to and from. Shuttle service is timed to the arrival of flights and typically head toward Dubrovnik 30-45 minutes after a plane touches down. Even better, they operate 24/7. You can grab a ticket at the Platanus counter near baggage claim. If you’re going straight to Old Town, the shuttle is a direct shot. If you’re lodging in Gruž or need to go downtown with your bags, the transfer is straightforward (right after the Gruž stop). A ticket runs approximately 10 Euros. By Vehicle: You can utilize Uber or Bolt, but the airport taxis are super dependable with a fixed rate of approx. €30 E . Of course, always double-check before hopping in a cab. We’ve taken local bus as well. It’s slower, but not difficult. The D8 route is the one you want. You can catch it right outside the airport for around €2.50. Rental Cars: Old Town is completely car free. Finding parking outside is challenging, especially in high season. The streets are pretty narrow and they’re reeeally steep in most places. You can certainly find street parking, especially if you brave the hillside, but it’s not a breeze. We liked saving the car rental for after Dubrovnik, because getting around on foot or by bus is very low-stress. If you having that rental is non-negotiable, but you’d like to save some money on long-term parking, there are options in Gruž. It’s about a 10-15 min bus/taxi into Old Town, but some of the longer-term public parking runs is approximately €20-30/day. International Driver License/Permit (IDP): Not required in Croatia, but in some of the surrounding countries, so if you’re planning to do some road-tripping, it’s best you nab this document before you even start your trip. Getting an IDP by mail takes a long time. Best to stop into a AAA office near you and have one printed up in the time it takes to make scrambled eggs. Dubrovnik is eminently walkable. You won’t even tax your step counter like you might in a place like Prague. That doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of alleys to stroll and get lost in. Special Note for Parents Traveling with Small Children Dubrovnik is the perfect place to see everything in a day or spend a little time. Everything you really need/want to see sits within a compact area. You can pace yourself with kids, build in a little down-time, and take care of most of your needs within walking distance. Naturally, there are plenty of cobblestones and uneven surfaces. Trekking strollers won’t have too much trouble. The hills are a different story. They’re steep. We do like baby-wearing for situations like these. The rampart walk is, far and away, the most popular thing to do with kids. But be advised, while the walls are mostly high enough on either side of the pedestrian walkway, there are places (especially near the cannonades overlooking the Adriatic) where you’ll want to use extra caution. Some of the walls are a little too high for most kids to see over, so lifting might be necessary. Mind the drop! Where to Stay in Dubrovnik You have a decision to make. Stay inside Old Town or outside. During peak season, getting a spot within the ramparts is a tougher prospect. But fortunately, there are numerous options for lodging both inside and out. We stayed in a mix of hotel and AirBnb, specifically because we lingered so E could convalesce a bit (morning sickness) instead of pounding the pavement like we normally prefer. Prices drop off pretty decently toward the end of the season (and before things ramp up), so bargain hunters can have good luck if you’re looking for that good deal. By and large, Old Town is beautifully maintained with very modern accommodations, featuring everything you might expect in a big, cosmopolitan city. If you're looking for an Air BnB with a spot to cook, you've got plenty of options. The city has enjoyed a measure of wealth throughout its history, and while it’s tragic that over half didn’t survive the shelling of Dubrovnik in 1991/92 (more on that later), the city has been restored to a magnificence that is breathtaking – particularly to someone from ye New World with its relatively “new” architecture. WS&T Travel Tip: Steps are a way of life on the side of a mountain. We highly recommend you try to use Google Street View (outside Old Town) or read the reviews. If steps are something that concerns you, do your homework. Rilati Old Town Palace (Inside Old Town) is a great low key spot with nice amenities, kitchenette options, and plenty of room for up to a family of four. B&B Villa Dubrovnik Garden (Outside Old Town) is a great place for restful accommodations and an amazing breakfast. Not the most lavish lodging, but if you're like us and you want to start the day without having to forage, these is an excellent option. Amoret Apartments (Inside Old Town) has awesome a/c and a great breakfast. Tucked into the south end, opposite the port the apartments have some steps, but nowhere near as many as some places. There are lodging options with well-appointed rooms, including kitchenette and space to sprawl, which is often a luxury in such a compact part of Dubrovnik. Where to Eat in Dubrovnik Hopefully, you’ve been with me since the beginning of this article so I can make the joke that there’s more than ramen to satisfy your cravings in Dubrovnik. If you’re just joining us, sorry for the curveball. Anyway, T did most of the eating, except for the infrequent moments when E had some relief from morning sickness. When she did feel well enough, we more than made up for lost time. Dubrovnik has a decidedly Venetian vibe when it comes to cuisine, so lovers of seafood and Italian fare will be amply cared for. Since there are no cars inside the walls of Old Town, “street-side” patio seating makes for a wonderful treat. By the night, the thoroughfares are completely covered in attractive white tablecloth spots. Music is everywhere and if you look up you might even spot the occasional dragon… sorry. I’m seeing a professional for the runaway imagination. Oh! Pastries are also big business on the main thoroughfares. It was rainy when we were there, which always sends my hankering for fresh baked goodies into full tilt mode. Try the classic Balkan savory pastry Burek at Holy Burek! Grab a coffee at Cogito (seasonal) or Life According to Kawa . Trattoria Carmen: Intimate, fresh, “sea-to-table” Italian-inspired cuisine that’s light and most delicious. They don’t take reservations and they’re quite popular, so arrive early and be ready to grab a glass of wine and wait, especially during high season. Nautika Arsenal: Lovely Croatian food in the heart of the city. Staff is lovely; seafood for days. Book ahead during busy periods. Taj Mahal: The improbably named restaurant actually serves hearty, classic Bosnian cuisine. What is Bosnian cuisine, you ask? Classic Balkan food overviewed in our Essential Guide to Slovenia. Good idea to make a rez. Restaurant Dubrovnik: Serving up that classic white tablecloth Dalmatian high-end cuisine you might be craving – at least for one meal. It’s splurgey but actually quite reasonable for the experience. Try to go on a good-weather day so you can sit on the terrace. Stara Loza: Casually inside a 15 th century palace, this is another white tablecloth dining experience with a gorgeous rooftop, with a bit of a more modern twist. Splurge: worth it. Book ahead. Mea Culpa: Mea delicious Italian meal, amirite? For an easy lunch, try the smash burgers at Kiba or the sammies at Yes Yes. We’ve also heard rave reviews of the burgers with calamari at Burger House Republic. Tabasco Pizzeria: Typical of a popular tourist destination, there’s a lot of pizza in town. This isn’t the most charming environment, but it’s well priced and the pizza is delish. They also do take-out if you’re ready for a night in. Preša: Not quite fast food, but definitely more casual, grab-and-go than the other recommendations. Punches above its weight in taste for the low prices. Burgers, giant fries, etc. For dessert, try a gourmet pastry at Gianni or (who am I kidding, and ) an ice cream at Peppinos. WS&T Healthy Food Recommendation : Croatian food tends to be pretty fresh and health-some, but if you’ve been knocking back burgers and pasta, try Soul Kitchen or the so-good-you-can’t-believe-it’s-vegan Nishta. Okay, itinerary time up next! Flash Trip: 3 Fantastical Days in Dubrovnik Day 1: Old Town Welcome to Old Town Dubrovnik! Let’s grab a pastry, a cup of coffee, and get an early start. Depending on the time of year, the City Walls encircling Old Town are not only busy but really, really hot up there as the day progresses. There’s a ticket office – yeah, even the wall exacts its price – near the Pile Gate at the northwest end of Old Town. She ain’t cheap, folks (about €35), leading some to wonder if it’s worth it. But oh man, the answer is a resounding 1.25-mile YES! What’s more, your ticket is good for access to the massive fortress Fort of St. Lawrence that juts out over the cliffs at the northwestern end of Old Town and which helped protect the city during its prominence. The City Wall walk offers a sweeping vantage of the red-tiled roofs that inspired King’s Landing, a bird’s-eye view of white froth and blue Adriatic waves pounding the fortifications, a glimpse into the maze of alleyways you’ll explore later, and a panoramic look at a once-powerful, ultra-wealthy medieval fortress. From here, it’s easy to imagine yourself back in time, watching the Greyjoy fleet merchant ships under sail glide into the city’s well-protected southern Old Port harbor. When you get a chance to drop down off the city walls (once you leave you can’t go back up without purchasing another ticket), you owe it to yourself to find a bench in the shadow in the harbor… and just watch. The waters are crystal clear and the tourist ferrying trade is brisk. So much life in this compact space, it’s hard not to try to imagine it in all its Medieval glory. One of the things that made the biggest impression on us during this walk “above” Old Town was being able to look down and see some of the stone ruins of homes destroyed during the 1991 siege – yes, a 20 th century siege. The intentionally-left ruins can be spotted if you look carefully near the southeastern edge of the city between the sea fortifications and Old Port. Along the northern end of Old Town, as you walk along some of the highest portion of the city walls, you’ll notice an incredible basketball court tucked in between the buildings. This spot is open to all, if you want to bring the kids and a ball. Let’s talk museums. Second only to Europe’s oldest synagogue located in Prague, Dubrovnik hosts a fascinating former ghetto and synagogue , with museum. Dubrovnik doesn’t have an extensively well-provisioned museum scene, but there are a few great stop-ins to get some quieter culture and respite. We enjoyed the very lowkey Foundry Museum , the Franciscan Monastery Museum – where you can see one of the world’s oldest continually operating pharmacies (definitely read up on its history) – the Dominican Monastery Museum, and the Maritime Museum . If you’re into treasuries, stroll through the Roman-style Baroque Dubrovnik Cathedral . The cathedral itself isn’t as grand as some, but the treasury is filled with… items of note. (That was me trying to avoid saying treasure twice ). Once you’ve gotten off the wall, spend some time hitting up the attractions you spotted from on-high, then be sure to get the remaining benefit from your City Wall tickets. Head out of Old Town and hike up the coast through tight little alleys and check out Fort of St. Lawrence. And if you dig forts, you can take the kids over to St. John’s Fort where there’s a splendid old aquarium with a few dozen tanks featuring all sorts of local marine fauna. Outside Old Town, you probably noticed the looming presence of Mount Srd, especially if you walked any of the streets at its base. Napoleon built a fortress up here in the 19 th century, connected by a cable car that’s a total blast to take up and down the mountain. The cable car doesn’t run in high winds, and especially during the persistent winter bora, it’s virtually shut down. But if you get the chance, spend the €27 to climb the mountain for spectacular vistas (wait for the best one below). Within Napoleon’s fort, it’s worth checking out the Homeland War Museum , especially if you’re interested in learning about the various defenses of Dubrovnik during WWII and regional conflicts. It’s well worth the €4 admission price, even if you’re not a war history buff, because you can reach the fort’s roof for truly the best views from Mount Srd. From the top, you can see Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and out to sea it’s possible to spot the Dalmatians. Day 2: Music & Lokrum Island If you’ve walked the city walls to the south end of Old Town, you’ve no doubt noticed the once-fortified island just off the coast. That’s Lokrum Island. It’s well worth catching one of the frequent boats in the Old Town harbor that goes to the densely wooded isle, designated in its entirety as a nature reserve. Give yourself a solid five hours to do the island and enjoy it at a leisurely pace. There’s a number of great, shaded walks and excellent swimming spots. These are especially tasty if you are looking for a place to swim and sunbathe that’s less crowded than nearby Banje Beach, directly outside the south end of Old Town. The other beach, farther to the south is St. Jakob Beach . Tender-footed: be sure to bring your water shoes. They’re all pebble beaches to some degree. Kayaking around the city walls is a great adventure. You get some idea of how majestic Dubrovnik must have seemed while walking above it. But it’s something else entirely to navigate a small watercraft through the churning Adriatic in sight of those fearsome walls jutting out into the water. X-Adventures is the major tour provider (approx. €30), but there are plenty of options for rentals, either self-guided or with a group. If the seas are cooperating and you’re feeling up for it, kayaking to Lokrum Island is a blast. Or you can take the ferries that leave a couple times an hour (€5). Everything, including your kayaking tours, leave from Old Port. So, you can arrange ticketing there at the well-advertised kiosks. Lokrum features the ruins of a basilica dating back to the 12 th century, a beautiful Benedictine Monastery and Abbey from the 900s AD that is said to be haunted by a Benedictine curse (and so, so, so many peacocks), and the summer “home” of an ill-fated Habsburg who would find himself facing down a firing squad in Mexico of all places just three years after erecting his residence on the island. The island is completely gorgeous. Game of Thrones fans will recognize some of the exteriors as those from the city of Qarth across the narrow sea, and indeed there’s a small museum dedicated to that fact. Before his dalliance as Emperor of Mexico, Maximillian laid the groundwork for what is a lovely botanical garden . And while you can’t stay overnight on the island, Lokrum does boast a number of fun bars near the water. Have a delicious cocktail and cast your mind asea before heading back to Dubrovnik before the last ferry ride at 7pm. If you’ve arrived in Dubrovnik any time between late July and mid-September, you will have two opportunities to enjoy some of Europe’s best symphonies, chamber orchestras, recitals , and concerts all hosted in cozy Old Town. Festival culture is so important in Dubrovnik that they do not one but two summer festivals, back-to-back. A lot like Prague, it felt like every block, every church, and every concert venue was hosting a musical event 24/7. Shows run the gamut from intimate to grandiose, so if you’re an afficionado, there’s always something to drop in and see. Day 3: Dubrovnik, the Perfect Jumping-Off Point Day Trips from Dubrovnik An additionally awesome advantage about home-basing in Dubrovnik (holy unintentional alliteration) – which, as mentioned, is very compact – is the fun/convenience of numerous potential day trips a short distance from the city. You can feasibly see all of Old Town and a bit of greater Dubrovnik in two days. If you want to linger and stroll, there’s no shortage of Day 3 stuff to do and see and eat. But whether you’re interested in island hopping or prefer to check out some of the very cool sites within the region, you’ve got a number of choices. The big draw for those wanting a little dose of Mediterranean-style escape with their Croatian adventuring, is to make the short trip up the coast via the inexpensive public Jadrolinija Ferry or book a tour boat to see and experience the Elaphiti Island chain. Starting with Koločep , situated within sight of Dubrovnik, the island is a great place to escape the crowds for the day or a night’s stopover. The sandy beaches and crystalline water are breathtakingly reminiscent of Greece. You can explore and swim the Blue Cave , formed by a natural limestone erosion. And for history buffs like us, 9 th -12 th century churches dot the island, each wonderfully unique and well worth a peek. Lopud Island offers some of the same beachy vibes as Koločep—including a real treasure in Sunj Beach , which is accessed via a gorgeous forest walk—along with your ubiquitous Franciscan Monastery. But the island’s main attraction, in addition to being completely car free, is the "hidden" beach. If you’re traveling with small children, the beach is outstanding. You don’t need to make the trek by foot. You can hire a golf cart or reach it by boat. But wonderfully, the water is nice and shallow, tucked in a protected bay from most big wave events, and a blast to bring the tender footed. Want to experience Croatia’s deliciously inviting wine culture? 30 miles north of Dubrovnik lies the Pelješac Peninsula , jutting at a northwesterly angle into the Adriatic Sea and just off the vineyard-ruled island of Korčula . Home to idyllic towns that have managed to fly under the cruise ship radar, you can do the whole island in a day without missing out on some of the best seafood and wine on this side of the Adriatic. About 20km south of Dubrovnik, Cavtat is a must if you’re into art, architecture, and historical artifacts. In addition to featuring a picturesque Old Town promenade almost as charming as Dubrovnik’s, the Bukovac Museum and Racic Family Mausoleum in a hauntingly beautiful hilltop cemetery are alone worth the day trip. Between the music, the seafood, the beautiful beaches, culture, history, and fantasy, there's something for every member of the troupe along Croatia's storied Adriatic coast. Treating Dubrovnik as a home base is a great way to see just about everything south of Split. For more incredible trips around this region, check out our Slovenian guid es to extend your adventure. Wanna Make 3 Days Go Even More Smoothly? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- 8 Day Hikes That Changed My Life!
No, these aren’t the cross-country treks that spawn memoirs. They're the kinds of hikes that make you feel like you've been transported to another realm. We're talking manageable day hikes offering everything from the exotic and unexpected to the breathtaking and even claustrophobic. What's more, two of them I did while sick and even one with a spinal cord injury. In spite of that (or maybe because of it?), they still made the list. Here they are: the eight doable day hikes that changed my life. Škocjan Caves (Slovenia) Inside photos are verboten. Oh well, close. I have this recurring nightmare that I’m going to be trapped underground and crushed under a mountain of rock. So, why do I keep doing these types of tours? Because without fail, I walk away both awed and totally humbled. Škocjan is part of an underground river spanning 18 miles (!). After almost 2 miles and nearly 2 hours of marching up and down some 1,000 steps, you begin to appreciate the sheer scale of this incredible subterranean marvel. Just getting into the cavern is spooky—a slow walk down an interminable pedestrian shaft that descends down, down, down into the bowels of the Earth. Let me just say, when you’re walking for half an hour through a cavern big enough to contain a city—over bridges peering down into the Reka River that still seems miles below—you can’t help but feel like you’re on another planet. Or under it. Bahia Drake Public Trail (Costa Rica) A very special hike—not just for the views, but because it quite literally saved my life. This 10-mile coastal out-and-back winds through jungle and along hidden (empty!) beaches, offering secluded ocean vistas and a few unexpected encounters. Few beachside hikes pack in this much: stunning scenery, wildlife, and—for me—a serious medical discovery. At one point, we were stopped in our tracks by a capuchin monkey blockade. A dozen of them commandeered the trail, noshing mangoes and gossiping. Later, we paused for a siesta. I went bodysurfing in six-foot waves while my wife napped on the sand—until a sweet pit bull snuck up and licked her directly up the nose. While she was getting friendly with the pup, a wave slammed me in the chest, and I felt painful electricity shoot through my fingertips like I was Zeus hurling bolts of lightning. My water shoes were yanked off and lost to the surf. Annnd I hiked the long trail back barefoot, buzzing with current. Incidentally, that jolt led to the discovery of dangerous spinal cord compression and the emergency surgery that followed. Suffice to say, this hike holds a very special place in my heart... and neck. The Devil’s Throat (Argentina/Brazil) Technically, I’m referring to the entire Iguazu Falls experience , but what better way to designate the hike than by its most famously well-named branch? Just imagine the construction of miles of metal boardwalk that sits just a foot over a raging torrent of river, stretching right up to the edge (and sometimes over) hundreds of towering waterfalls. What a feat of engineering! We’re talking Niagara-sized cascades. Much of this hike is stroll-worthy, but there’s no doubt it features its share of adrenaline-pumping spectacle. This place ranks high for utterly jaw-dropping 360-degree picture potential. It's also hard to put sheer scale to this experience. You're not showing up and staring over a viewing platform. You're walking miles of catwalks over white water and hundreds of waterfalls. People constantly debate about which side to check out: Brazil vs Argentina. I say, "Porque no los dos?" Salto do Prego Waterfall (Azores) Give me a jungle hike on a rock in the middle of the ocean and it turns out I’m in utter paradise. Throw in a waterfall at the end of said hike and I’ll dream about the place til the end of my days, or at least so far. Located on the Azorean island of Sao Miguel, this hike begins at the edge of a lovely hamlet community. We shared the trail with more chickens than people. Some of the chickens are a little gatekeepery, but they mostly just want to hit you up for a snack. Don't let them give you too much grief. switchback nausea Okay, not the most spectacular waterfall you’ve ever seen. But just being here kicks the whole secluded magic of the Azores into another gear. Bring your swimsuit to round out a genuine bucket list experience. San Marcos to Santa Cruz la Laguna (Guatemala) We're crouched at the midpoint of the Santa Cruz–San Marcos trail , a few hundred feet above the deepest Lake in Central America, catching our breath and gawping as the water below shifts from deep green to ocean blue. Beneath a sky thick with anvil-headed thunderclouds, I can't shake the feeling that I'm being watched by the three giants always in view: Tolimán, San Pedro, and Atitlán . These volcanoes stand sentinel over the Guatemalan Highlands and the caldera lake, where the culture of the Maya endures. This is categorized as an out-and-back hike, but it doesn’t have to be. The great thing about Lake Atitlán is hiking from one spot on the lake, dropping down to a public pier, and boating back. This one’s not for the faint of heart, mostly due to the elevation gains and descents—I did it with the lingering effects of the flu… so, you can tell I loved it. Give yourself about 5-6 hours, plenty of sunblock, and water. It’s a once-in-a-life-timer. Cocora Valley – Acaime (Colombia) Sweet ladies, hot chocolate con queso and hummingbirds. What else do you need? I've hiked Nankoweap on Grand Canyon's North Rim, and this is still the hardest hike I’ve done. I wasn’t even the one who had to carry the baby for 95% of our 7.7-mile loop. The morning after a vicious battle with self-inflicted food poisoning, I rallied, lumbered, gasped, and stared at my wife's heels, counting steps while she toted our 18-lb kettlebell-shaped six-month-old. Now, to ease back from the hyperbole, this isn't really a super tough hike. It does start off in high altitude and gain considerably more elevation, capping out around 9200 feet, but the climbs aren't too bad if you're not fighting nausea and a bad stomach. Situated in and above the mystical valley that inspired the Disney movie El Encanto , with stick-like towering wax palms and endless green vistas, it’s easily one of the most breathtaking places on planet Earth. Honestly, it was sheer beauty that kept me putting one foot in front of the other. (Well, that, and not wanting to let my wife down.) There are shorter routes, but the counterclockwise circuit up the valley and into the mountains to reach a hummingbird sanctuary and bubbling pots of hot chocolate con queso makes it well worth the longer excursion. This is also one of those rare hikes that somehow manages to get prettier with every step, all the way to the very end. Crater Lake Rim Hike (Oregon) When people say you don't know blue until you've been to exotic places like the Bahamas, Greece, French Polynesia, I say add Crater Lake to that list . And unlike those other gorgeous spots, the deepest lake in the United States keeps all its blue locked in almost untouched seclusion and whisper-quiet alpine serenity. I'm hard-pressed not to oversell it, given that Oregon is far from the exotic for most people. But there is a great reason it's one of Earth's Natural Wonders. The hiking, whether to the summit of Mt. Scott for a bird's eye view, a circuit of Rim Trail and Discovery Point, or down the switchbacks to Cleetwood Cove and around Wizard Island, this is a world apart and sincerely life-altering. Montaña de Oro Bluff Trail (California) Easy and unforgettable, the trail along the granite bluffs is all about peace, reflection, and the awe-inspiring power of coastal geology. Not to mention the power of the Pacific! Whether you're there during a whale migration, a spring super bloom, or in the middle of a rainstorm, Montaña de Oro is a place to revisit over and over. You simply cannot see all it has to offer, and with every change in season (well, California's version of seasons), the bluffs seem to transform. Visit during a sunset—they are among the best in the world from here—and you'll instantly understand how Montaña de Oro got its name. I have been here hundreds of times in my life and each time I visit, I spot something new. No square inch of rocky coastline (and secret beaches) is the same. The hike is only a couple miles long, but you'll want to spend the whole day exploring. I can't speak highly enough of this tiny sampling of spots that sit very near my heart. Each one reflects a small triumph over stomach bug or personal adversity, a moment alone with nature, or surrounded by a few dozen other jaws-on-the-ground tourists. They just go to show, you don't have to high the Pacific Crest Trail to find out a little something about yourself. Then it again, if you've got the time, go for it. Our Favorite Gear for a sweet hike? Check out curated picks to make life easier when traveling with children. Visit PACKING For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- The Absolutely Everything Guide to Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
How do you buy a ticket for the ferry boats? What villages should I visit on Lago Atitlán? What sites should I see? Read on... We're crouched at the midpoint of the Santa Cruz–San Marcos trail, a few hundred feet above the deepest Lake in Central America, catching our breath and gawping as the water below shifts from deep green to ocean blue. Beneath a sky thick with anvil-headed thunderclouds, I can't shake the feeling that I'm being watched – three giants always in view: Tolimán, San Pedro, and Atitlán . These volcanoes stand sentinel over the Guatemalan Highlands and the 11-mile-long caldera Lake, where the culture of the Maya endures – circling the shores, and even lingering in the ruins hidden beneath the lake surface. Break out your AllTrails app, leave those resort fantasies behind, abandon your roller bag in favor of a backpack, and get ready for your Lago Atitlán adventure. A wee shorthand for village vibes The Spanish conquest of the 16th century brought Catholicism to every corner it touched – and where its zealotry went, local observances were often absorbed or erased. But in Guatemala, and around Lake Atitlán in particular, the Maya hung on through a remarkable process of syncretism. When resistance to colonial power proved impossible, the Indigenous peoples did what they had to do, weaving and fusing their customs and beliefs into this new alien framework. Today, the towns that ring this deeply spiritual Lake are steeped in a wild hybrid mythology. Ancient Maya traditions coexist with Catholic and Christian symbolism. We saw evidence of this bubbling mixing pot everywhere, especially in the prominent effigies of folk saints who preside over everything from crops and marriage to health… and even vengeance. EVERYTHING GUIDE TO LAKE ATITLÁN INDEX Jump To: Getting to Lake Atitlán Village Map of the Lake Parents Traveling with Kids Understanding the Ferries (Lanchas) Using the Ferries Exploring the Towns Panajachel (Pana) Where to Stay Santa Cruz What to Do Jaibalito What to Do Tzununa What to Do San Marcos What to Do What to Eat Where to Stay San Pablo San Juan What to Do San Pedro What to Do What to Eat Where to Stay Santiago Atitlán What to Do San Lucas Tolimán What to Do GETTING TO ATITLÁN Flying into Guatemala City is the most common approach vector for visitors heading to the Highlands and Lake Atitlán from abroad. The approximately four hours it takes to reach the Lake's primary hub Panajachel (Pana) from La Aurora International (GUA) is easily done by shuttle. I recommend starting your drive as early in the day as feasible. Guatemala City traffic is incredibly jammed during rush hours. Even the engine goes: tuktuktuktuktuktuk Almost everywhere in the country, the Tuk Tuk (mototaxi) is abundant. These are the perfect in-betweener for treks that are too far to walk, but not quite far enough to hop a chicken bus. Don't be afraid to pre-negotiate rates. Most short trips shouldn't cost more than a couple bucks (or 5-8Q). For those travelers coming from Antigua, all you have to do is stop into literally any shuttle agency in town. They are virtually all working together in some fashion to pile passengers into colectivos and get them on the road. The drive is 2.5 to 3 hours. Inagine if US public schools "pimped" their rides. Locals who do not drive their own cars rely on chicken buses, the other ubiquitous mode of transport throughout the country. The ornately decorated buses are among the cheapest mode of travel. If you grew up in the US and rode the school bus as a kid, you'll find something oddly nostalgic about a chicken bus – with good reason: they are old American school buses. Trips on chicken buses are invariably longer due to many stops. And over longer distances, a few transfers may be needed to get to your ultimate destination. We'll talk more about chicken buses for commuting, but let's start with a direct connection to Atitlán. Shuttle Companies (Colectivos) These providers usually make three drives a day with 6-10 people per bus, each charging between $30-45 per person (compared to <$10 for a chicken bus). Some of the larger hotels near Atitlán may facilitate a shuttle trip as part of your stay. You can try bundling to make things easier. We prefer directly contact with one of the established companies offering standalone shuttle services from the Guatemala City airport. Today's lucky color is YELLOW Book your shuttle at least 48 hours in advance. Don't feel squeamish about paying at the time of booking. These companies have been around a while so they're generally pretty trustworthy. If your hotel is near Panajachel's city center, shuttles are good about dropping you off at your hotel. Otherwise, they'll drop you either at their office, near the city center, or at the pier (Tzanjuyu). Unless we're arriving late to Pana, we don't spend the night there. I'll explain in a moment. Instead, we'll exit the colectivo in the city center and walk to the dock for the next available boat to the town where we've booked lodgings. I should pause a moment to stress the importance of not booking a shuttle (colectivo) from GUA to Lake Atitlán too close to your flight's arrival time. Even if it means a bit of standing around, the risk of missing your scheduled shuttle is 50-50. Shuttle companies generally keep a no exceptions, no refund policy if you miss the shuttle. Lastly, I've never known one of these shuttles to be on time. Traffic on the road to Atitlán can be slow, Pana can be snarled with traffic, and any number of additional issues can cause delays. Be prepared to wait up 30 minutes. That doesn't mean you should be late. On the colectivo shuttles, there are other travelers waiting to go. If you're not present, they will leave without you. If you prefer, there are exclusive solo shuttles that will wait, but expect to pay a premium for the service. Here are some good shuttle companies: Atitrans : Super convenient provider offering shuttle rides from GUA to various destinations, including Antigua, Chichicastenango, Atitlán, and more. Booking is pretty straightforward via their website. They offer several pickup locations at the airport, or from select hotels near the airport. Adrenalina : Super convenient provider offering a similar suite of shuttles from GUA to various destinations in Guatemala. Visit their website to book. Pickup locations around GUA airport, or from select hotels nearby. Magic Travel : Provides competitively priced shuttles to destinations around Guatemala, including Atitlán. Contact them via WhatsApp by visiting their website. You can get to Lake Atitlán by driving along the Pan-American Highway 1. While you won't end up needing a vehicle for a few days as you explore the Lake, there are several long-term parking lots in Panajachel. Be sure to pick something that offers a modicum of security—staffing, lockable gates, etc. Special Notes for Parents Traveling with Kids Lake Atitlán and its surrounding villages feel collectively like a world removed. The little kid in me certainly felt a genuine sense of magic, of total escape, and of wonder the first time I visited this Guatemalan Highlands region. Towns and villages, by and large, are safe. Latin America goes out of its way to welcome kids, possibly more than adults (ha!). Children will encounter an abundance of places to swim, with plenty of spots to rent inexpensive water toys. Strollers are almost totally a no-go, given the uneven terrain and piers. Ferry docks have been cobbled together over the years to accommodate the rise and fall of the lake and the different sizes of boats. As a result, they are multi-level with steps upon steps upon steps. Since you will be getting on and off small boats, you will want to have your hands free. This goes for baby-wearing as well. Fortunately, people will always want to assist. If you didn't grow up at sea, take advantage of helping hands until your landlubber boat balance is dialed in. Hiking trails run the gamut from easy to hard. We swear by the community on the AllTrails app. People write detailed accounts of routes, and nothing is better for getting a sense of how rugged and/or rural your trek will be. Many of the lower shoreline walks hugging the lake are recommended for those traveling with little ones, especially because the higher hillside hikes that wend through canyons and rocky crags, often feature stretches of thin trail that drop straight off a steep slope. Sure-footed, mountain goat children will be okay, but be forewarned. These can be dangerous treks along the higher trails. The standard warning applies to children un der 1year old. It i s inadvisable to bring them on a boat because life vests are rarely made to fit safely at this age. Babies also lack the neck strength to keep their heads upright if they tip over in water. You can, of course, bring an approved vest, but ensure that it fits securely before traveling. It's also fairly likely that most boats won't have (or have in short supply) life vests for children under 5, so plan accordingly. You're not required to wear vests on boats around Atitlán, but knowing it's available or planning to bring something compact for swimming could be very helpful. FERRIES & LAY OF THE LAKE WSAT Travel Tip: You can use Google Street View to check out some of the road around the Lake. This will give you a sense of driving conditions. Even more cool, there's a Google Street View of one of the direct routes around the Lake. If you'd like to know what the view feels like from one of the boats, visit Google Maps, toggle Street View in layers and click the blue lines circuiting Lago Atitlán. Using the arrow buttons on your keyboard, you can navigate the Lake. Before we lay it out in more detail in this everything guide to Lake Atitlán, let's keep it simple. Buying a ticket to transit the Lake is really as straightforward as showing up, hopping on, and having correct change (or close to it) when you're ready to get off. As alluded to above, the town where you'll most likely start your Lago Atitlán journey is Panajachel, or simply Pana. Don't let this town put you off. On a surface level, it's admittedly got the charm of a border town. Overly solicitous vendors, touristy nicknacks, unremarkable food, and divey hotels near the city center and the docks. But Pana functions largely as a transit hub, so it's to be expected. That said, the town is still interesting and the outskirts of Pana feature worthy sites and accommodations. Moving around the Lake is done mostly by boat (lancha), operating from two ferry terminals (muelles): Tzanjuyu (approximately "san-hoo-yoo") or Puerto Panajachel AKA Public Beach Dock (Calle del Río). Calling them terminals or ferries is a bit misleading. You will find yourself looking out on an array of small boats moored to one of two main docks. Tzanjuyu, residing at the terminus of Calle Santander/del Embarcadero. Puerto Panajachel, standing at the mouth of the Panajachel River. The two launches are within walking distance of each other. Mobile Users, Scroll ---> Dock Name AKA Destinations Served Departures Ave Cost Notes Tzanjuyú Embarcadero Tzanjuyú Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, Tzununá, San Marcos, San Juan, San Pedro La Laguna Every 20–30 min (6:30–17:30) 10-25Q for public / 40 to 70Q for private Most popular dock for tourists; fast lanchas connect to major lake towns Puerto Panajachel Muelle Público / Playa Pública Santiago Atitlán, San Lucas Tolimán Every 60–90 min (varies) same Longer crossings; fewer tourists; boats less frequent Most visitors will transit the Lake via Tzanjuyu, which is considered the main ferry terminal, and offers more frequent direct service to the most visited locations. This port not only operates in service of commuters, but goods. It's not unusual to share a boat with building supplies, fruits and veggies heading to market. Even the occasional dog may be taking his return commute. (Don't worry, they generally keep to themselves). Want to skip the dock hassle? Try the relativey new Ripple app , developed by folks living on Lake Atitlán. Reasonable rates and low stress. So I'm told... NAVIGATING THE DOCKS (TICKETING) You've arrived at the dock. If you haven't prepared yourself, it might seem a touch bewildering. Dozens of boats and a handful of uniformed and non-uniformed fellows waiting. It feels less claustrophobic than my super-wide lens makes it look What's it Like to Buy a Ticket? Let's travel like a local and opt for the public lancha with a direct route, which means 3 stops or fewer. If you're headed to one of the major stops, direct service is available. If not, you'll just have to enjoy the beauty of the Lake as the boat putters along making dockside stops. No advanced booking is required (or available). Boat captains and crew will handle ticketing. They're usually – though not always – in uniform. You'll find these fellows loitering the docks waiting for passengers and often calling out destinations around the Lake. Note: The private boat folks will generally come on the strongest, since they're trying to sell you on a premium service – faster, exclusive, etc. A private ride could cost in the neighborhood of $20-$50 compared to a rough max of about Q25 or $3.25 for public. What to Say to Book Passage? You can honestly get away with just saying the name of your destination. But to make your life easier: For example: "[Town Name], solo ida (one-way) por favor". Some travelers might argue that the last bit is unnecessary since one-way is standard. But it's been my experience that some fellows frequently try selling foreigners a roundtrip ticket. Politely decline any suggestion that you get a roundtrip ticket. Public transit lanchas are ticketed one-way, so that's a pretty good tip-off that someone is trying to get you a pricier boat. Then again, feel free to comparison shop if you're trying to travel in style. Once you've made it clear to someone on the dock where you're headed and you've been ushered toward a boat, feel free to ask the fare price to ensure you're not being led toward a private boat. "Cuanto cuesta a [Town Name]?" If the price is weirdly high, ask someone else where to find the right boat. After that's settled, they may hustle you and your luggage on board in a hurry. The sudden rush is mostly performative. Captains want to see their sardines packed into the can so they can do a headcount and avoid stragglers. Ultimately, all that rushing can suddenly turn into hurry up and wait. How (and importantly) WHEN Do You Pay? As you're closing in on your destination or about to get off, this is the time to get your money ready. You shouldn't be asked to pay in advance. Instead, you'll pay as you're exiting the boat at your destination. Getting close to exact change is not just appreciated, consider it mandatory. Boat transit fares will range roughly from Q10 to Q25 ($1.30 - $3.25) depending on destination distance. For Q25, you'll likely reach the farthest towns on the Lake. For example: Pana to San Pedo or Pana to Santiago Atitlán. If you get charged Q25 for a short trip (because you're a foreigner), you could haggle… or carry on living your life. How Long Does It Take? A direct route to San Pedro from Pana, for example, takes approximately 30-45 minutes. Let's say you've found yourself on a boat making stops around the Lake. I've made a visual that imagines Lake Atitlán as a clock face. Tzanjuyu boats typically transit the Lake counter-clockwise, while public beach boats go the opposite way. If you look at this map and listen to the boat crew calling out stops, you'll be able orient yourself and see how many stops to your destination. Midday chop! Do You Get Seasick? Lake conditions vary! Before 1pm on a sunny day, the waters are placid. As the day progresses and hot and cool air begin to duel over the Lake, it gets a little choppy. Most of the public boats are blue and white fiberglass skiffs with a canopy roof and open sides. They sit very low on the water, which is generally supposed to help with motion sickness. Ha! Afternoons generally mean a bumpier ride. If you get seasick, this is a great time to preemptively take your Dramamine or plan for an earlier, smoother transit. Splish-Splash Conditions Another incentive for taking an earlier boat. As mentioned, the boat sides are pretty open. While your luggage may not get splashed, you have a 50-50 chance of catching a nice spritz. If you're not a fan of getting splashed, try for a middle seat. But be aware, while the boats are operated within their safe limits, you may be transiting with 10-20 fellow commuters. Life jackets should be visible. You can ask for one if you want. How Do You Get Back to Pana? Just as you did originally, you'll approach the town's public dock and ask for Pana. Someone will point you in the right direction. If you're in a smaller town, there may not be a soul in sight. Be sure to hang out on the dock if you wish to board the next boat. Often, if there's no one on the dock, eagle-eyed captains will peel off from their approach and go to the next town to save time. Typically, if you're standing there, they will spot you and stop to pick you up. But you can feel free to give a little wave in their direction if you're worried about being confused for someone taking in the view. Remember, boats run from approximately sunrise to sunset. But may stop running as early as 5:00pm. Later in the day service becomes less frequent. If it's starting to get late, odds of a guaranteed return begin to dwindle. You can always check with a hotel or restaurant near the dock to verify when the last boat comes through. If you miss the last boat, you may also be able to hail a tuk tuk driver for a ride to the nearest town. WS&T Money Tip: You will be charged more than locals to get around. This is customary. You're not being ripped off. Try to remember the power of your currency vs. the Quetzal. Prices are still very reasonable. THE TOWNS OF LAKE ATITLÁN We'll take a counter-clockwise tour around Lago Atitlán, which is typically the route followed by boats making their stops once every 30-45 minutes. These details are the result of exhaustive visiting and trekking, numerous 10-mile hikes, zippy tuk-tuk rides through mountainside passes, and enough boat rides even Magellan would need a siesta. If we've forgotten any specific details, please let us know in the comments. Atitlán Safety Generally speaking, the Guatemalan Highlands are pretty safe, especially with kids. The practical rules of the road should always be observed. We've written plenty about this. Atitlán, like most heavily touristed areas, can attract a shadier, opportunist element. (You can be mugged anywhere in the world.) But for the most part, we felt great strolling about and even taking night walks. Which reminds me, bring a flashlight or make sure your phone (with light) is fully charged. Some of the more remote towns don't have much for streetlight, and that's part of the charm. if you're going from May to October, plan accordingly to keep those kiddos happy and dry. Mosquitoes are ever-present during the warmer months and closer to the lakeside. For parents traveling with children, it's a good idea to keep a few insect repellant options. Check out our article on the subject of DEET and kids. The science still suggests no better repellant and more than half a century of research attests to its safety when properly used. Mosquito nets are also easy to travel with. During warmer months, we highly recommend one or two travel-sized fans as some lodging does not come with air conditioning. Lake Atitlán Village Map Most people start at top right in Pana PANA (PANAJACHEL) The traveler's main hub with a quick-commerce-border-town vibe. Worthy sites include the Riserva Natural Atitlán featuring hanging bridges , lake views, animals , and water sports , ziplines , and viewpoint strolls. Pana is one of the better places on the lake to reserve your fun on the water. Prices are best here for paragliding , kayaking , stand-up paddleboarding , and limited water skiing . Swimming, however, is not recommended from this part of the lake. Not far from the Riserva is one of the most popular horseback riding tours on the lake. Trev comes from an equestrian family, long ago raising and racing mostly Quarter Horses and Thoroughbreds, so this was the first time he'd seen a stable almost entirely comprised of handsome Friesians , a smaller draught horse brought from the Netherlands. Check out the fabulously-rated Fabulas Atitlán to book a trail ride around the lake. Pana actually has a pretty compelling museum, catering specifically to the underwater Maya finds. Through the history of human settlement, the Lake level has risen and fallen quite dramatically. As such, there are some fairly well preserved ruins beneath the Lake's surface. Museo Lacustre in Panajachel is dedicated to the Maya culture at Atitlán and the site of ancient Samabaj, sometimes called the Mayan Atlantis . (Once a historical island shrine and pilgrimage site, Samabaj was submerged during a massive eruption around 250 and 300 CE. The lake's drainage was blocked, filling the caldera and the valley. Entire temples were swallowed.) Also from Pana, Thursdays and Sundays, there is a shuttle that goes to famous Chichicastenango for the largest market in Guatemala . The experience is bucket list-worthy. Where to Stay in Pana Hotel Utz Jay: A beloved budget hotel tucked a couple of blocks from the Lake. Set in lush gardens with fruit trees, it offers clean, spacious rooms and even a Mayan-style sauna and hot tub. Guests love the friendly staff and quiet location close to the action but not on the noisy main street. Selina Atitlán: A trendy hostel-hotel with a social vibe and co-working space. It sits right by the Lake with a pool and dock. Great for meeting other travelers, Selina offers both dorms and private rooms, an on-site restaurant/bar, and frequent events. (Listed among the most popular hostels at the Lake. Hotel Atitlán: Upscale Spanish-colonial style hotel boasting extensive botanical gardens and an infinity pool overlooking the Lake. Its elegant rooms and lakeside restaurant make it a top pick for those seeking tranquility and volcano views right on the outskirts of town. The gardens and vistas here are often praised as spectacular. Porta Hotel Del Lago: A long-established 4-star hotel on the lakefront with modern amenities. It features a large pool, panoramic restaurant, and balconies facing the water. While a bit dated in design, its comfort, central location, and unobstructed Lake views keep it a favorite. Families appreciate the reliable service and lakeside grounds. SANTA CRUZ LA LAGUNA Getting to (and around) Santa Cruz la Laguna Approx 10 minutes by boat from Pana. Hiking trails and rural walking paths are numerous around the Lake. You can walk to neighboring villages but be prepared for a workout. Thoughts on Santa Cruz La Laguna This small, Kaqchikel village is nestled (squished?) onto the side of steep hillside along the northern end of the Lake. Volcanic vantages are phenomenal from Santa Cruz. Once upon a time, there were no roads to Santa Cruz. It used to be the only way to get there was by boat. One of the reasons we love it there is the immediate feeling of seclusion. While the majority of town remains rural, ecolodges dot the water and hillside. What you won't find in Santa Cruz are the wild nights of San Pedro or Santiago Atitlán. If you're the kind of traveler looking for quiet cultural immersion, this is a great village to spend some time in. Walking the steep streets and footpaths, taking in the best views of the volcanoes, and just generally taking it slow – that's the way to go. What to do in Santa Cruz la Laguna Other than just taking it easy, Lake-and-volcano watching, and hiking, there's a dive shop where you can take courses to tour underwater volcanic formations and ruins, all in the highest elevation, deepest Lake in Central America. Check out ATI Dive Shop . They also have a lodge and restaurant. Where to Stay in Santa Cruz La Laguna A room with a view… there's something special about waking up and looking out your window at breathtaking Lago Atitlán and its trio of volcanoes. If you're able to check out pictures, look for accommodations with a view. There are plenty to be had at reasonable rates. Some recs: La Iguana Perdida: A legendary backpacker hostel right by the dock, famous for its welcoming social vibe. Offers affordable dorms and private rooms amid tropical gardens. Known for its on-site dive shop and weekly BBQ & party nights, it's a hub for meeting other travelers (but quiets down by late evening). No Lake view from some rooms, but the common areas are lakefront. Free Cerveza: A unique glamping hostel featuring upscale tents and cabanas on the lakeshore. It's popular for its nightly "all you can eat tacos and free beer" dinners (hence the name) which create a communal atmosphere. Lounge in hammocks by day, enjoy the small plunge pool, and watch volcanoes from the waterfront deck. A fun budget choice with a bit of party spirit. Isla Verde Eco-Lodge: A mid-range boutique hotel composed of charming cabins on a lush hillside. Emphasizing sustainability, it has solar power and organic gardens. Lake views from the rooms' decks and the open-air restaurant are fantastic. Guests love the yoga studio, the farm-to-table vegetarian-friendly menu, and the tranquil ambiance blending into nature. Laguna Lodge Eco-Resort & Nature Reserve: An intimate luxury eco-resort accessible only by boat, offering six exquisite suites with indigenous décor and balconies overlooking the Lake. Expect gourmet dining, a cliffside infinity pool, and on-site hiking trails in the private reserve. Laguna Lodge is pricey but frequently cited as a top romantic and wellness retreat (massages, a yoga pavilion, and those sunrise views over the water. JAIBALITO Getting to (and around) Jaibalito 5 minutes from Santa Cruz by boat, 15 minutes from Pana by boat. Hiking trails offer access to Santa Cruz (approx. 45 min walk). Thoughts on Jaibalito Tucked between Santa Cruz and Tzununa, Jaibalito is super isolated with virtually no access apart from boat and footpath. The Tz'utujil Maya hamlet was without electric until the 1990s, which should give you some sense of how off-the-grid it is. No ATMs, no shopping, light on the internet. What to do in Jaibalito There's a fantastic, long shoreline trail here that takes you west to Tzununa. Expect about an hour walk and lovely, rural scenery. Some of the trail is a little challenging as with many of the Lake trails, due to volcanic outcropping over and around which you'll need to climb. Swimming is very refreshing from this point of the Lake. The few lodges/hotels rent kayaks, and a mid-afternoon snooze might just be the best you've ever had. The most well-known thing to do in Jaibalito also happens to be one of the most popular attractions on the entire Lake. La Casa del Mundo is a cliffside hotel (and so much more), offering gorgeous views of Lake and volcanoes. There's a day pass that gains you access to their amenities, so you don't have to be a guest. We'll discuss below. Our favorite way to access La Casa del Mundo is by the high trail, but you can get there directly by boat as they've got their own dock. Swimming here is a total must after a long hike. Where to Stay in Jaibalito Posada de Jaibalito (Hans's Place): The quintessential budget choice, this hostel/guesthouse run by a colorful expat (Hans) offers clean, super-cheap rooms and dorms (some beds for just a few dollars). It's set in a garden courtyard and also serves as the village café, dishing up hearty family-style meals (including famed German specials). The vibe is backpacker-friendly and communal – a great place to meet the handful of other travelers in town. No Lake views here, but the Posada is a stone's throw from the dock. Vulcano Lodge: A charming boutique hotel set in lush gardens just outside the village. It features a handful of cozy rooms and bungalows, each with artistic touches, set amid coffee trees and flowers. There are h ammocks for relaxing, and a highly regarded restaurant on-site serving farm-fresh dishes. Vulcano (sometimes called "El Jabalito" Lodge) is praised for its hospitality and the peaceful, nature-filled setting – an ideal mid-range retreat. Some rooms have partial Lake views through the foliage. La Casa del Mundo: "Guatemala's most magical hotel," Casa del Mundo is perched on a cliffside a short walk from Jaibalito. It has breathtaking panoramic views from every room and terrace – each of its uniquely decorated stone rooms has a balcony overlooking the Lake. Guests rave about the family-style dinners by candlelight, the cliffside hot tub, and the ability to dive straight into the lake from the property. Though not the cheapest, it's a must-stay for many (accessible via a 10-minute walk on a footpath from Jaibalito dock or by request boat). Book early. They only have 19 rooms available. Hotel y Restaurant Isla de los Sueños: A newer intimate guesthouse right in Jaibalito (name means "Island of Dreams"). With just a couple of rooms, it offers simplicity and a friendly local host. What makes it special is the rooftop terrace where you can lounge and gaze at the volcanoes. It's a budget-friendly alternative if Posada is full, providing a quiet night's sleep and home-cooked meals on request. TZUNUNA Getting to (and around) Tzununa Very limited road access, apart from the rough and steep routes leading up to the top of the caldera and the larger town of Santa Clara. Lanchas (ferries) are 5 minutes east from San Marcos, 20 minutes from Pana. Hiking trails offer access to Santa Cruz (approx. 45 min walk). Headed to a retreat? You may be in for a hike. Thoughts on Tzununa Low-key Tzununa's tiny community sprawls lazily between San Marcos and Jaibalito. The name means hummingbird, and if high above the Lake hiking from San Marcos, you'll know you've reached Tzununa when you're passing through mountainside coffee trees. In recent years, the area's farming culture and crop varieties have exploded in diversity. Tzununa is also becoming a junior San Marcos, dotted with retreats – yoga and ecolodges – but without quite the intensity of hippie vibe. The town itself is little more a collection of dense little neighborhoods, so there's not a ton to stroll and shop, aside from a few scattered eateries. But the secluded nature of Tzununa makes it a great spot to hole up at a retreat and commune with nature. Lots of emphasis on living sustainably and holistic vibes. Incidentally, Tzununa feels like the best example (on Lake Atitlán) of a community meld between locals and newer arrivals. What to do in Tzununa If you are into farming, this is a great place to take a course on permaculture and to experience a wonderful organic farming operation at Atitlán Organics . Hiking trails are among the best (and some of the steepest) on this part of the Lake with sensational panoramas and long, circuitous routes climbing and dropping through all kinds of ecological zones. For mycophiles , the Fungi Academy offers comprehensive research and residency courses in the cultivation and importance of gourmet, medicinal, and psychedelic mushrooms. The retreats here are magical without being densely packed into the mountainside. Be aware that the terrain is steep. If you're coming by boat with a lot of luggage, there are a few people offering rides with pickup trucks, but tuk-tuks are limited. Cascada Tzununa is a quaint, rock-face waterfall hike at the back of a canyon. A rough road higher up the canyon winds its way to a deeper, more secluded section of Tzununa where many dozens of hillside farms cover the canyon walls. Check out Atitlán Organics to learn about sustainable farming and volunteer. Take part in a temazcal "house of heat" indigenous sweat lodge ceremony. Experience workshops in a range of phytomedicine and natural healing techniques. The lakeside is among the quietest on Lago Atitlán, great for a paddle or swim. Some of the lakeside lodges will offer water equipment for a fee to non-guests. And like many of the other villages on the Lake, shoreline trails connect the next towns over – east to Jaibalito or west to San Marcos. In the smaller towns, the trails can be quite challenging or less frequented, so you can always inquire about passability. Where to Stay in Tzununa We've tried to include a mix of easy-to-reach and remote, but the name of the game for most lodging in Tzununa is climb. Lots of steeps hills, but worthy views! Granja Tz'ikin: A rustic permaculture farmstay hostel offering budget dorms and private huts amid gardens. Run by an Argentinian-Guatemalan family, it embodies eco-living – compost toilets, solar showers, and farm-to-table vegetarian meals. Guests can help in the garden or learn about the farm animals. It's basic but full of heart, perfect for backpackers or volunteers seeking a cultural exchange and an ultra-budget bed. El Picnic Atitlán: A boutique glamping spot known for its geodesic domes and luxury tents perched on a hillside. Each dome/tent has a deck facing the Lake for glorious sunrise views. Bathrooms are shared but upscale, and a homemade breakfast "picnic" basket is included. El Picnic's secluded setting and Instagram-worthy design make it a favorite for glampers and couples who want nature with comfort. (Access requires a short but steep walk up from the main road, adding to the sense of retreat.) Maya Moon Lodge: A lakeside eco-lodge with a relaxed, creative vibe. It features a range of options from thatched-roof bungalows to treehouse-like rooms, all with artistic touches. The lodge's open-air restaurant and bar is a community gathering spot, serving organic meals and hosting occasional live music. Volcano and Lake vistas from the dock and yoga platform are sublime. Maya Moon offers yoga classes and easy Lake access – you can paddle-board straight from their small beach. (Listed as a popular stay in Tzununa.) Lomas de Tzununá: A well-established hillside hotel & retreat center known for its panoramic views. Guests climb 350+ steps to reach it but are rewarded with one of the most spectacular outlooks on the Lake. The rooms are airy with wooden furnishings and private balconies overlooking Volcán Tolimán. There's a pool and hot tub on-site, as well as yoga and meditation spaces. Lomas offers packages for wellness retreats, and its restaurant uses produce from their garden. It's an ideal upscale choice for tranquility. SAN MARCOS LA LAGUNA Getting to (and around) San Marcos La Laguna By lancha (boat), San Marcos La Laguna is about 25 minutes from Pana. All westbound boats stop at the dock. Since travelers frequently come to San Marcos directly by way Antigua, there is a reliable mountain road used by shuttles (colectivos) that works well. But bear in mind, the village is compact. So, if you're traveling with luggage, you may have to prepare for some walking navigation. Getting to the villages east and west of San Marcos (San Pablo and Tzununa) can easily be done by tuk-tuk (clustered at the edge of town) over (mostly) dirt roads above the shoreline. Hiking to Tzununa over the mountain is challenging, but wonderful. Thoughts on San Marcos La Laguna No town on Lake Atitlán has perhaps more fully adopted the spiritual vibe than the hippie quarter in San Marcos. Nestled between San Pablo and Tzununa, and once a quiet farming village in the 60s and 70s, portions of the town near the Lake have been transformed from the dock inward. From the moment you get off the boat, you'll feel like you couldn't be farther from towns like San Pedro or Pana. Where some of the larger towns have morphed by the demands of tourism and its associated necessities, this part of San Marcos feels highly intentional. For better or worse, the feeling of external investment is also readily apparent. New Age retreats and associated shopping dominate a dock area corralled by vine-covered walkways. That's not to say San Marcos hasn't been intentional about preservation and sustainability as well. Building codes have been carefully written to keep towering resorts out and eco-conscious construction in. Noise curfews preserve the mellow vibe at night. Streets are a healthy mix of paved and unpaved, and the jungle village ambiance is ever-present. The town is a joy to walk through with lush garden walkways. When you reach the interior of San Marcos, you'll get a sense of the real Guatemalan Highlands, especially in the neighborhoods around its central park. Cars are almost non-existent and tuk-tuks are few until you reach the edge of the touristed areas. In many ways, the town is a melting pot. The New Age and Maya cultures are compatible here. That means no loud bars and nightclubs, but lots of communal spaces. Visitors and part-time residents hail from every corner of the globe. We heard numerous languages being spoken, and the cuisine offerings are diverse as well. What to do in San Marcos La Laguna Mornings are always high on my list of times to explore, but in San Marcos they're a special treat. The town's easy-going vibe means you'll have the streets, narrow pathways, and trails almost totally to yourself for a few hours after sunrise. If you've come for body, mind, and spirit, you can't miss every type of business offering release and healing practices. From Reiki , cacao ceremonies , massage , sound baths , and yoga to numerous other disciplines, you can easily fill your days with classes or decompression activities and your evenings with drum circles, music, special performances, and dance. The lakeside Tzankujil Nature Reserve is about a short walk from the main docks. Less about actual nature and more about walks, sacred Maya altars, bench viewpoints, and hiking. You'll do well to remember your bathing suit, small change for an entry fee (20Q), and plenty of sunscreen. Swimmers and water bugs will enjoy plenty of places to access the lake, including a pretty sensational 12m (40f) high diving/jumping platform! If you're going for kayaking or paddle boarding, be sure to get there early to take advantage of the placid waters. Some of the rentals will cease as the wind picks up. La Nariz del Indio (Indian Nose) is a popular, semi-challenging and fairly quick sunrise hike to the top of the mountain rock outcropping. There is a longer version (2 hours) that takes you around the high shoreline. We used the All Trails app nonstop when trekking around this area. Bear in mind, portions of the trail run through different parcels of private land. Depending on the time of day, landowners keep sections of the trail staffed and charge a small use fee. This is one of the only trails we took that required a fee, but it's so worth it. Where to Eat in San Marcos La Laguna Fresh fruit and vegetables are plentiful owing to the farms dotting the hillside, including the vast growing areas in neighboring Tzununa, which ply their bounty on and around the streets of San Marcos. Along with San Pedro, this town features probably the most comprehensive selection of eateries, from breakfast, pastry, snacks, lunch & dinner. We've tried to hit a little of everything over our time at Atitlán, but we've also tried some of the more popular spots, too. Giardino: (We go for breakfast) Vibe is garden oasis with hammocks and sunshine. Hearty breakfast sets, omelets, fresh-squeezed juices, herbal teas. A tranquil space to ease into your day, with consistently solid food. Café Florest: (We go for breakfast) Vibe is jungle hut meets Euro café. Avocado toast, muesli bowls, sourdough, and espresso drinks. Cozy, lush setting and strong coffee. Shambhala Café: (We go for breakfast and tea) Vibe is spiritual and artsy. Vegan breakfasts, smoothie bowls, Ayurvedic teas. Attached to a meditation and retreat center. Circles Café & Bakery: (We go for baked yums) Vibe is welcoming and earthy, a San Marcos institution. Wood-fired baked goods, cinnamon rolls, vegan pastries, excellent coffee. Fresh, natural, and always buzzing with travelers and locals. Moonfish Café: (We go for snacks) Vibe is minimalist, typically quiet. Iced coffees, shakshuka, sourdough grilled cheese, gluten-free options. Low-key place to work or relax, with lake views from the back. Cafe Kula Maya: (We go for drip coffee and chocolate) Vibe is eclectic, artistic energy with jungle views. Guatemalan beans, specialty lattes, chocolate drinks. Ethically sourced ingredients and a handmade feel. Comedor Konojel: (We go for inexpensive lunch) Vibe is simple, local-run project supporting nutrition in the community. Nutritious vegetarian lunches, Guatemalan dishes with a healthy twist. Proceeds go toward local families. Sababa San Marcos: (We go for lunch and snacks) Vibe is fun, Middle Eastern-inspired with colorful décor. The original location is on San Pedro, but this spot is a bit more chill. Same falafel wraps, hummus, big mezze plates, smoothies. Blind Lemon’s: (We go for a higher-end dinner treat) Vibe is classic bohemian with live music and fire pits. Grilled meats, burgers, pastas, and creative cocktails. Atmospheric courtyard and often hosts music or poetry nights. Restaurant at Lush Atitlán: (We go for fancy pantsing dinner) Vibe is upscale, eco-luxury (is that an oxymoron?) with views. Gourmet vegetarian and pescatarian dishes, tasting menus, local wines. Artisanally prepared meals in a serene garden lodge setting. Where to Stay in San Marcos La Laguna Hostels and solo-room studios abound for ultra-inexpensive stays. Beware the accommodations that bill themselves as ecolodges and end up being high-priced gimmicks. There are plenty of ways and place to stay in San Marcos, to be both part of the action or away from the maddening crowds. The tourist quarter is pretty tightly connected to the dock area, with additional hotels/lodges scattered throughout the area. As you've probably guessed from the write-up so far, walking is the name of the game so you might want to ditch the roller bag in favor of a backpack. ATI Hostel & Beach Club (formerly Hostel del Lago): Budget travelers' top choice, recently revamped. This hostel sits right on the Lake with its own little beach area and dock. It offers dorms and private rooms, free breakfast, and daily yoga classes for guests. The communal spaces – a garden, firepit, and waterfront lounge – encourage meeting others. With beautiful views of Volcán San Pedro across the water, ATI Hostel captures the quintessential San Marcos backpacker vibe (and quiets down at night for good sleep). Casa Ahua: A serene budget hostel up the hill, nestled in the forest. Staying here feels like being in a treehouse oasis. Dorm beds are single mattresses (not bunks) and there are airy private rooms, all surrounded by greenery. It's a bit removed from the Lake (no Lake views) but offers tranquility and plenty of hammocks to chill. Guests love the free hearty breakfast and the fact that it's away from the main footpaths – a quiet retreat after a day of workshops. Lush Atitlán: An artistic mid-range boutique hotel highly popular for its design and comfort. True to its name, Lush is set in a lush garden, and each room is uniquely decorated with natural materials and vibrant mosaics. Many rooms have views over the Lake and balconies. It's located just above the Lake shore, giving it a peaceful ambiance yet it's only a minute from cafes. Couples and solo travelers alike praise Lush's attention to detail, from comfortable beds to the complimentary coffee delivered each morning on your patio. Kula Maya Boutique Hotel & Spa: A newer upscale option right on the waterfront. Kula Maya offers chic, modern suites with huge windows facing the volcanoes, plus a spa that offers massages and temazcal (Maya sauna). The property has an infinity plunge pool and is only a short walk to the town center/dock. With stylish decor and on-site fine dining, it's bringing a touch of luxury to San Marcos while still blending with the village's laid-back feel. SAN PABLO LA LAGUNA Not a tourist town, San Pablo is a locals-only hamlet through which chicken buses and tuk-tuks coming from Santa Clara above pass on their way to San Marcos and San Juan. Lots of working class and farming. Well worth a stroll, and you can make the shoreline hike from San Marcos to San Juan, passing through San Pablo, a gorgeous trek of about 7km. SAN JUAN LA LAGUNA Getting to (and around) in San Juan La Laguna Just under 2km from San Pedro, connected by paved road, most travelers reach San Juan via the docks at San Pedro, before taking a tuk-tuk (5-10 min). You can reach San Juan by boat, but the stops here are less frequent and become even more infrequent as the day progresses. It's worth noting, if you're trying to get to one of these smaller towns, you may have to request them specifically. In most cases, if they're very near to larger stops, you'll have to content yourself with a trek along the shore or short tuk-tuk ride, especially if you're carrying luggage or traveling around dusk. Thoughts on San Juan La Laguna Adjacent to lovably seedy backpacker haven of San Pedro, Tz'utujil heritage is strongly represented in San Juan. The hamlet features grassy shores and market-lined walking areas. While fairly small, the town makes up for its diminutive footprint by being a lovely cultural stop. Streets are adorned with ornate decorations, from dangling ornamental clay pots and colorful umbrellas to painted sidewalks, murals, and handsome tile work throughout the city center. Residing in a box canyon carved into the westernmost end of the Lake, San Juan is relatively sleepy compared to its noisy-nighted nearby neighbor. And perhaps it's due to its San Pedro proximity that the community has tried to control its brand of tourism. Here, rather than nightspots, you'll find organic communal coffee production and a fantastic women's weaving cooperative. Nowhere on the Lake is the syncretism of Maya-Christian religious history perhaps more well-preserved than here in San Juan. The town features an impressive array of churches. If you're there on my birthday (June 24), there are lovely events celebrating… no, not me, but Saint Juan Batista , the town's patron saint and namesake. What to do in San Juan La Laguna If you've hiked into San Juan from the east as we initially did, you'll see a sudden onslaught of pedestrians heading toward you along the outskirts of town, before veering toward a steep ascent. The colorful Mirador Kaqasiiwaan offers a fantastic view overlooking the Lake. You can even see a sliver of San Pedro from here. There's plenty of artwork – sculptures, murals, painted woodwork – along a vibrant deck. Plenty of intrepid folks make their way up here for sunrise and sunset and it's a great place to meet fellow travelers or catch the occasional art installation. Tuk-Tuk rides are also available, so fret not if you're on weary legs. As mentioned, weaving and textiles are an important part of the area's Maya heritage. Workshops provide the opportunity to get a hands-on experience with growing cotton, natural dyeing, and weaving on looms that have furnished the fabrics of several generations of Tz'utujil people. Coffee cultivation tours are also popular in the area. One of the best in Lake Atitlán is pretty immersive. La Voz Que Clama en el Desierto offers a tour of bee-keeping and textiles-weaving culture, in addition to the coffee harvesting and roasting experience. The tour can be accessed from San Pedro. Tour operators will arrange to pick you up at the dock, where you'll take a short jaunt by boat to San Juan. The tour is especially cool because you get a little history of colorful San Juan La Laguna while walking the streets and learning about the communal farms of the indigenous Mayan Tz'utujiles. It's highly recommended to go during coffee harvest season December through March to get the full experience. Tours are about 100-150Q. If you prefer a more intimate, family coffee operation check out Café Las Marias here in San Juan. A much smaller operation, there's a decidedly chiller vibe. If you request it, there's also a chocolate-making process that's fascinating. Once you've begun seeing (and tasting) San Juan honey throughout town, you'll be inclined to visit the stingless Maya bees and their keepers at the Mundo de Abejas . I used to keep bees myself, and of all the honey varietals I've sampled, I've never tasted honey quite like this. Speaking of tastes, Guatemalan chocolate is divine. Bean to bar operations like the one in San Juan at the women-owned Licor Marron are a treat. And for about $5, you can learn to roast locally-grown cacao and be involved in the chocolate-making process. The Indian Nose hike is reachable from San Juan's side of the rocky outcropping. The trailhead is above the town of Santa Clara at the top of the Lake's caldera, but tour operators service San Juan if you're interested in making the pre-sunrise pilgrimage. Like many other spots on the lake, this is also a great place to swim and partake in sports-of-the-water. Where to Stay in San Juan La Laguna Eco-Hotel Mayachik': A rustic eco-lodge/hostel on the hillside above town, popular with backpackers and volunteers. It features adobe bungalows and dorms in a garden setting, with compost toilets, a yoga studio, and a vegetarian café on site. MayAchik' is run collectively and offers a temazcal (herbal sauna) and activities like weaving classes. It's very affordable and gives a taste of permaculture living – expect friendly vibes and basic comforts. Eco Hotel Uxlabil Atitlán: A lakeside eco-hotel with outstanding San Pedro volcano views. Built with traditional design in mind, Uxlabil has cozy rooms decorated with local textiles; each has a balcony or porch. The hotel is set right by the water in the quieter part of San Juan, so you can hear the waves. Guests love the included breakfasts on the terrace and the hotel's small dock – perfect for a morning swim or kayak. It's "eco-chic" yet unpretentious and employs solar power and sustainable practices. Great mid-range choice for tranquility and authenticity. Hotel Taa' Tiin : A family-run hotel a short walk uphill from the center, offering simple but comfortable rooms and a touch of local flavor. It's known for its warm hospitality – the staff often help arrange tours or a traditional Maya sauna (temazcal) for guests. Rooms are clean with hot showers, and there's a garden and rooftop with views of town. The hotel is also praised for feeling "authentically Guatemalan" and even has its own small steam room for guests, making it a unique stay in San Juan. Hotel Pa Muelle: This quaint hotel (whose name means "By the Dock") sits on the hillside just above the boat pier. It boasts well-kept gardens and several terraces with hammocks, all overlooking the Lake. Rooms are basic but very clean, and many have Lake-facing balconies. What sets Pa Muelle apart is the friendly local owners and the convenient location – steps from where you arrive by boat though elevated enough for views. It's also known for a good cup of local coffee in the morning with a vista. A solid, affordable option with a great location in town. SAN PEDRO LA LAGUNA Getting to (and around) San Pedro La Laguna Though among the farthest towns from Pana, many boats make frequent, direct trips to San Pedro due to its popularity and size (13,000 people). Rides from Pana take about 45 minutes, or 20-30 minutes from Atitlán's largest lakeside town, Santiago Atitlán. The town is also easily reachable by road. If it's your ultimate destination, you can arrange to have your shuttle take you straight here via Antigua or Guatemala City. There's even a small bus terminal. Thoughts on San Pedro La Laguna At the foot of the 3,020 m volcano bearing its name, San Pedro is a backpacker's hub for expats and wannabes alike. Near the water, the lakeshore "Gringo trail" features two main sections – one near the docks and one along the bay looking toward San Juan – with plenty of grubby-to-good eateries, hostels, cafes, and bars, bars, bars. Little of the town's history is evident in the more touristed quarters, but if you're young, looking for a lakeside party, and eager to meet people from all over the world (especially Europe and Israel), this is the spot on Lago Atitlán. One of the other perks of San Pedro is access to more of the western amenities than at almost any other destination on the Lake. Do your laundry, get a decent international meal, and learn Spanish! San Pedro's lower town charm is a hotly debated topic. It has definitely taken a turn for the seedy over the years, but maybe that is part of its allure. Fairly safe – maybe avoid a drunkenly stagger through some of the more poorly lit alleys in the wee hours – San Pedro is at its most fun after sunset. There is always something going on, from dancing to karaoke… and more. While I appreciate the tourist quarters for what they are, there's little sense of community investment in beautification. With a few notable exceptions, nightlife areas are like the room in a house that's been fully child-proofed and where the toddlers have taken over the asylum. Along particularly narrow alleyways, you may spend a healthy portion of your walk dodging robust piles of dog poop. The power went out in town during our most recent visit, and the city walks were alight in candles with folks making the best of it. The moment you get outside of the lower town into the outer edges and especially higher in San Pedro La Laguna where locals live, all that Guatemalan Highland charm is visible in abundance. What to do in San Pedro La Laguna Want to know the best way to meet people and make lifelong friends in San Pedro La Laguna (and greater Atitlán)? Book yourself into a cooking class with Anita. Around the corner from the main docks, Anita's Mayan Kitchen Cooking Class is a complete blast. Hiking Volcán San Pedro is a great challenge (3-4 hours w/ guide) through levels and levels of coffee plantations and cloud forest. As you can imagine, the views from the summit are [fill-in-your-superlative]-taking. If you're going to do it, the hike generally gets underway around 4am. Coffee cultivation tours are also popular in the area. One of the best in Lake Atitlán is pretty immersive. La Voz Que Clama en el Desierto offers a tour of bee-keeping and textiles-weaving culture, in addition to the coffee harvesting and roasting experience. The tour can be accessed from San Pedro. Tour operators will arrange to pick you up at the dock, where you'll take a short jaunt by boat to San Juan. The tour is especially cool because you get a little history of colorful San Juan La Laguna while walking the streets and learning about the communal farms of the indigenous Mayan Tz'utujiles. It's highly recommended to go during coffee harvest season December through March to get the full experience. There's plenty of stand-up paddleboarding and kayak rentals along the shore or possibly included as part of your lodging. Because this is an extremely busy area on the water, be extra cautious about where you swim. The smaller boats come in hot and it's hard to see a head bobbing in deep blue waters. Also, don't be alarmed if you're sharing the waterside with locals who've come down to gossip and wash their clothes. For a more chill experience, check out Rancho Moises . We stumbled upon this horseback tour when several riders suddenly appeared on a street just outside San Pedro's tourist quarter. And now… because serenity is not a notable element – except for the outer fringes where there are some great, chill hangs – San Pedro nightlife is the principal attraction we'll discuss below via some recs. Where to Hang & Meet People in San Pedro La Laguna Sublime Bar: Vibe is lively, friendly, and sociable. It 's probably the most popular bar in town right now. Located right on the lakeshore, Sublime hosts regular events like open mic nights, karaoke, and DJ parties. There's a dance floor, cheap cocktails, and a super social atmosphere—great for meeting fellow travelers. Fire shows, wild theme nights, and staying open late. Zoola San Pedro: Vibe is laid-back by day, party by night. This hostel/bar/restaurant has cozy floor seating, hookahs, Middle Eastern food, and a chill vibe that turns upbeat as the night wears on. Often hosts drum circles, fire dancing, and impromptu dance sessions. A slightly bohemian crowd and great shisha. Mr. Mullet's Hostel Bar: Vibe is backpacker party HQ. Even if you're not staying here, their bar is open to all and famous for its beer pong, pub quizzes, and happy hour deals. It's often the pregame spot before heading to Sublime or Zoola. Themed nights, free shots, and rowdy fun. Expect lots of Aussies, Brits, and solo travelers. Bar Mikaso (at Mikaso Hotel): Vibe is relaxed, scenic, mature crowd. If you want a drink without a hangover, Mikaso's rooftop bar is perfect. It's ideal for catching sunset over the Lake with a cocktail or glass of wine. Low-key atmosphere, great views, French crepes, and quiet company. The Alegre Pub: Vibe is cozy and casual. Tucked away off the tourist strip, this Irish-style pub has pool tables, foosball, and strong drinks. It's quieter than Sublime but still social—great for chatting with locals and long-term expats. Craft beer (rare in San Pedro!), good jukebox music, and pub quizzes. Where to Eat in San Pedro La Laguna This is one of the more happening towns, so there are many, many options for food and café. Some are downright terrible with excellent marketing. Some are downright delicious with terrible marketing. Some are easily overlooked. Some look great when you show up but you're unsure. Good news! We've done the sorting to make things a bit easier. Bonus for good Israeli food, since we don't often find it. And don't worry. These aren't just our picks, even though we've got excellent taste Idea Connection: (We Go For: Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner) Chill garden café, hot spot for digi-nomad types. Big healthy breakfasts (smoothie bowls, omelets, avocado toast), French press coffee, and peaceful vibes. Gorgeous courtyard, Wi-Fi, vegan/vegetarian options. Cozy, creative dishes on a budget. Falafel burger, veggie curries, large smoothies. Affordable, well-portioned, flavorful meals in a decent atmosphere. The Fifth Dimension: (We Go For: Breakfast): Peaceful, tucked-away vegetarian spot. Banana pancakes, creative egg dishes, fresh juice blends. Holistic vibe, kind staff, and spiritual touches like crystal water and chill music. El Barrio: (We go For: Sunday Brunch/Special Event) Social and festive. Huge portions, bottomless coffee, American-style breakfast (eggs, hashbrowns, bacon, funky pancakes). Affordable and tasty with a fun, community brunch vibe. If you're in town on Sunday, this place will put the tiger back in your tank. I'm still not 100% sure what that means. But my dad used to say it, so I think it applies. Café Cristalinas: (We go For: Drip Coffee) For the adventurous, a tranquil roastery café in the local part of town. Locally grown and roasted coffee, hand-poured brews, cold brew, and chocolate drinks. Family-run, educational about the coffee process, often includes a mini coffee tasting or farm connection. Hard to dispute the claims of "best coffee in town". Sublime Café: (We go for: Everything) Lakefront with comfy seating and blazin' Wi-Fi. Cappuccinos, fresh bakery items, chocolate banana bread. A great place to stare right down into the Lake with your java in hand. Kind of a see-and-be-seen sort of place. Café Atitlán: (We go For: Coffee/Snack) Hidden gem with a nice view. Guatemalan beans, espresso drinks, grilled sandwiches. Sometimes quiet, artsy feel and decent value. Comedor Elenita (We Go For: Breakfast/Lunch) No-frills, local favorite for Guatemalan food. Essentially a set menu (desayuno típico, almuerzo), soup and main dish for under Q25 ($3). Authentic, hearty portions, family-run spot. Sometimes a line but fast-moving. Sababa Restaurant: (We go For: All Day) Stylish and modern with a lakeside view. Middle Eastern–inspired fare, epic shakshuka, cocktails and craft beer. Nice setting, elevated flavors, rooftop tables. But also, eerily fun to spot contenders for worst hangover. Zoola Restaurant: (We go For: All Day) Cozy lounge with low tables and cushions, Israeli/vegetarian menu. Shakshuka, hummus platters, curries, soups, big mezze spreads. Unique ambiance, firepits, and excellent food for sharing. Where to Stay in San Pedro La Laguna We'll divide these into two classes: For those who can sleep through the noise and for those who need solitude and quiet time. Mr. Mullet's Hostel: Arguably the most famous party hostel on Lake Atitlán. Mr. Mullet's has become an institution for backpackers. It offers dorms and a few privates at rock-bottom prices, free breakfast, and an on-site bar that hosts themed parties (the legendary Pub Quiz and Beer Pong nights). Socializing is guaranteed – it's loud and lively, not for light sleepers. However, many solo travelers love it for its friendly atmosphere and easy ability to make friends. The location is central in the action (just off the main strip). If you're up for fun, this is your spot. Mikaso Hotel: A pleasant budget hotel at the quieter end of town (by the Santiago dock). Mikaso is set right on the water and features a rooftop terrace with panoramic views and even a couple of Jacuzzi tubs for guests. Rooms range from dorms to private studios with kitchens, all clean and simple. It's known for strong Wi-Fi (fiber optic) and being digital-nomad friendly. The on-site French café serves tasty crepes and coffee. Mikaso is perfect for those who want a peaceful stay in San Pedro – you can sleep well but still be 10 minutes' walk from the nightlife. Plus, you can swim or kayak directly from their small dock (and watch stunning sunsets). Sababa Resort – A popular mid-range hotel and hostel hybrid, Sababa stands out for its gorgeous design and amenities. It's 5 minutes from the main dock yet tucked into a lakeside hill, giving it sweeping views of town and Lake. Sababa's signature feature is its fabulous pool with a rope swing and sun beds, framed by boho-chic décor – extremely photogenic and fun. They have dorms (in stylish minimal design, around $30) and private rooms, plus include a big breakfast. Morning yoga sessions, lakeside hammocks, and an on-site restaurant make it a place you may not want to leave. Sababa manages to cater to backpackers and couples alike, and it consistently ranks as one of San Pedro's best stays (it's often fully booked due to high demand). Casa Lobo Bungalows: A boutique eco-property offering a tranquil escape from the bustle. Located on the outskirts (in the coffee hills about 10–15 min walk or short tuk-tuk from center), Casa Lobo features just three luxurious bungalows and a couple of apartments, all hand-painted and uniquely furnished. Each bungalow has a king or queen bed, kitchenette, and private patio – ideal for couples or families seeking comfort and privacy. The property boasts an inviting pool with panoramic views and even a sauna in the lush garden. Guests report that waking up to birds and picking fruit in the garden feels a world away from downtown. Casa Lobo is perfect if you want San Pedro's convenience but a peaceful haven at day's end. Hotel Casa Don Pedro: Great value with a turquoise pool and jacuzzi near the Santiago docks. Hotel Sak'cari El Amanecer: Lakeside mid-range hotel known for lovely gardens and views, plus a lakeside hot tub. SANTIAGO ATITLÁN Getting to (and around) Santiago Atitlán You can get here by boat or road. If you're coming from Guatemala City and/or Antigua, road is fastest (3.5 hours). Because of that, boats from Pana are actually less frequent than one might imagine. It's far more convenient to access the city via it's connection to the main highway. The city is very hilly, and roads are narrow, so once you're there, you'll see more tuk-tuks than anything. Negotiate the fare in advance. Maximon! Our Thoughts on Santiago Atitlán Really cool, bustling, working-class town. This is the biggest (city) on the Lake, with its population of 50k mas o menos. Super compact, and while not especially touristy, there are numerous sites of interest if you're keen on Guatemalan culture, especially that of Maya history and its often fraught relationship with what came after. For orienting yourself on the Lake, Santiago Atitlán located on the far southern shore, tucked halfway into a deep bay between the San Pedro and Tolimán volcanoes. The town is mostly Tz'utujil Maya with a wild history. In fact, pre-colonially this area was the capital of the Tz'utujil kingdom. Some serious battles have been fought here, not just during the Spanish conquest, but with Kaqchikel forces as well. Right up to 1990, the area has seen its share of strife. This is the site of the Santiago Atitlán massacre occurred here, marking a huge turning point (and unlikely expulsion of the army garrison) with respect to the military's role in Guatemala and its relationship with the indigenous people. What to do in Santiago Atitlán This is a great place to visit if you want to find great Guatemala-Maya artisan crafts. Way better than the touristy mass-produced stuff you can find in more heavily touristed areas. The woodwork and textiles are varied and incredibly worth the chaos of the tight little city to stop in and see. Fridays and Saturdays are the best day to visit SA's market. It's not on the level of the Chichi market but is a great alternative when you're staying on the Lake. Tons of fruits, vegetables, meats… tons of beautiful flowers everywhere… vibrant huipiles ("wee-peel") – the traditional tunic worn by indigenous women, along with their purple-striped skirts. Santiago Atitlán is also the (current) home of Maximón, the folk saint shrine revered by the local Maya. I say current because, per custom, his location will rotate with different regional caretakers. Naturally, given the historical importance of the area to the Maya, it just had to be given special import by the Spanish. As such, you will find one of the oldest Catholic churches around (1547) Iglesia Parroquial Santiago. Little known fact, there's a tomb of an American priest who was beloved in the community and martyred in 1981. With its close proximity to two volcanoes, the super ambitious can arrange summit hikes with guides. For the birder in your life – we all have them or become them – the Posada de Santiago hotel organizes birding walks. The area is replete with hummingbird species. The traditional textile manufacturing is a special treat, which I've saved for last. There are many cooperatives popping up around the country, and the Atitlán chapter is wonderful. Check out Cooperativa Mujeres de la Tierra if you'd like to arrange a viewing and tour, demonstration or classes. The handmade fabrics are becoming increasingly subsumed by machine work, so it's well worth your time to get a look at the real thing. What to Eat in Santiago Atitlán A good question and worthy quest if you're looking for authentic Guatemalan Highland street fare . And where there's a market, there's awesome street food. Pescaíto Frito (fried fish) and atol (hot corn smoothie) can be found in and around the market. Fresh fruit is everywhere. Massive, stuffed chuchitos (think tamales) and rellenitos are among my personal favorites, washed down with an elote atol. Where to Stay in Santiago Atitlán While most travelers will do the day-trip thing to Santiago, if you're planning a stay-over to get your culture on, there are a couple of decent places to stay conveniently. Posada de Santiago: A semi-renowned boutique hotel featuring stone cottages on the Lake's edge. This posada is frequently highlighted by guidebooks for its charm and comfort. The cottages have fireplaces, tasteful rustic décor, and volcano or garden views. The lush grounds include a pool, hot tub, and lakeside gazebo. The on-site restaurant is excellent, serving both local and international dishes (and famous pies). It's slightly out of the town center (about 1 km), which affords tranquility. Many guests call this their favorite stay on the Lake for its peaceful ambiance and hospitality. (It's also where you can learn a lot about local culture – the American owner is deeply involved in the community.) Hotel & Restaurante Bambu: A beautiful lakefront hotel set in tropical gardens on the outskirts of town (near Panabaj). Often just called Hotel Bambu, it offers thatched-roof bungalows and rooms with traditional art and private patios. The property has a swimming pool with volcano views and a lakeside pier. Guests love the serene setting away from the busy center (it's about 5 minutes by tuk-tuk), the lakefront hammocks, and the on-site crafts shop. The restaurant specializes in local fish and organic veggies from their garden. It's a top choice for those who want comfort and nature – as one reviewer said, "a piece of paradise...with outstanding views." Hotel Tiosh Abaj: A larger local hotel resort located along the lakeshore just east of town. Tiosh Abaj has a range of rooms from standard to suites, many with Lake views, set amid landscaped grounds. It features an expansive outdoor pool (with a waterslide popular with kids), a sauna/steam room and a small private beach area. The architecture incorporates hand-crafted stone and wood, giving it character. While it's a bit dated in parts, it's very family-friendly and even hosts events like weddings. The on-site restaurant and bar make it a convenient all-in-one option. "Relaxing retreat with Lake Atitlán views" aptly describes it – a place to unwind with modern comforts and still be a quick tuk-tuk ride from the town's sights. SAN LUCAS TOLIMÁN Getting to (and around) San Lucas Tolimán Roads are the best way in and out of San Lucas Tolimán. The Pacific highway (CA-2) has a turn-off that goes directly toward the Lake and the town. It's less than 3 hours drive from Guatemala City. Daily chicken buses travel via Escuintla to San Lucas out of the city and/or Antigua. If you're coming from another destination on the Lake, there isn't a regular schedule from Pana or elsewhere. Hiring a private boat to get there is straightforward and not too expensive. Tuk-tuks can be found in San Lucas but are not nearly as common as elsewhere. But you won't necessarily need one. The place is perfect for a walk-about. However, if you're planning to visit one of the local fincas that offer coffee tours, you will have to arrange a ride. Some of the fincas offer pickups, so inquire when you book. Our Thoughts on San Lucas Tolimán We've come all the way around to the far southeast corner of Lago Atitlán. This side of the Lake gets skipped in favor of the more popular destinations on the opposite side of the Lake, but at the base of Tolimán volcano, San Lucas is unique. Since it lies on a flatter plain, it was something of an agricultural hub. Unfortunately, much of the coffee growing and roasting has moved on, but there are still some estates and old re-purposed processing plants in town. In addition to be predominately Kaqchikel, there is a non-indigenous ladino minority who call San Lucas home. The town is largely quiet, with an undeveloped waterfront. Lots of folks tending fields of corn and onions. What's unique about San Lucas is that people are especially friendly, even for Lake Atitlán. That really saying something in super-hospitable Guatemala. What to do in San Lucas Tolimán Bring your small denominations because we're leaving the world of ATMs and Tap-to-Pay behind. There is a lovely natural hike located a few kilometers outside the town proper. Tzantizotz Nature Reserve is supervised by Laguna Lodge Eco-Boutique Resort. The reserve's trails are well-tended. You may not see any of the bats for which the place is named, but there are really neat rock formations, a host of interesting ecological zones and mini-forests unlike anywhere else on the Lake, and as always, some spectacular viewpoints. Mirador Rey Tepepul is one of the better viewpoints, giving you a wide panorama of the southern side of the Llake. Finca Coffee Tours are few, but among the best on the Lake. Check out Finca Tolimán, among others. One of the biggest treats if you just so happen to be visiting in October is San Lucas's celebration of Festival Patronal . There are traditional dances and fairs, and you might get to see a Maya folk performance of Dance of the Conquest . There is hardly any better way to find yourself immersed fully in the well-preserved and beautiful cultural history of the Guatemalan Highlands. Gorgeous outfits and lots of happy, friendly folks. Several of Lago Atitlán's villages are known for organic, sustainable farming cooperatives but only one hosts a school dedicated to Highlands permaculture. The school, the Mesoamerican Institute of Permaculture , is open to the public for tours and exploration. Its mission is devoted to promoting food security (the awesome term is food sovereignty ) and cultivation independence for local Guatemalans. I can hardly think of a concern more worthy of a special visit to San Lucas Tolimán. Where to Stay in San Lucas Tolimán Hotel Tolimán: The principal hotel in town, this family-run hotel is set on what used to be an old coffee finca's grounds. Rooms are rustic yet comfortable, some in the converted historic buildings (with high ceilings and wooden beams). The hotel's standout features are its extensive gardens and lake-view pool – a serene environment often mentioned by guests. They grow organic vegetables used in their restaurant, which serves excellent local and international fare. There's a small dock and free kayaks for guests to explore the calm end of the Lake. Hotel Tolimán also actively supports local community projects, which enhances its warm reputation. It's often praised as a "hidden gem" where you can truly unwind, enjoy volcano vistas, and savor freshly brewed local coffee on the terrace. Hotel y Restaurante Tz'utujil: A simple lakeside hotel right in town (near the main dock). It offers basic but clean rooms, some with balconies peeking at the Lake. The attached restaurant is one of the few in town catering somewhat to visitors – it serves tasty grilled fish and has cold beers, popular with passing NGO workers or travelers. While not luxurious, it's convenient and friendly. Notably, it's listed on Expedia as a popular option alongside Hotel Tolimán and Hotel Iquitiu. Choose this if you want an economical stay in the center, walking distance to everything. Hotel Iquitiu: A newer small hotel (opened in recent years) that has become a top pick in San Lucas for those who find it. Rooms are modern and well-furnished by local standards, some with A/C and TVs which is uncommon around the Lake. The hotel is a couple of blocks from the park, offering quiet at night. What sets Iquitiu apart is the service – reviews note the staff go above and beyond (arranging coffee tours, accommodating late check-ins). There's also a temazcal available for guests (they advertise aromatherapy steam baths). It's considered "the best service in San Lucas Tolimán" by some. This is a great mid-range choice with local flavor and comfort. Casa Qatzij Guest House: A budget guesthouse/hostel catering to backpackers or volunteers. Casa Qatzij is essentially a large house near the center that offers private rooms and dorm beds at very low cost. It has a communal kitchen, a garden with hammocks, and a rooftop terrace with volcano views. The vibe is homely – travelers might stay here while working on projects in town. Don't expect hotel amenities, but you can expect a communal feel and helpful hosts (the project was founded in 2020 to support various types of travelers, including families and digital nomads). If you're traveling on a shoestring and want to meet locals or missionaries, this is the place. Plus, its terrace is a wonderful spot to watch Volcán Atitlán's cone in the sunrise. Oh my god, we did it. We covered the Lake. We've properly experienced the Guatemalan Highlands at Lake Atitlán. The great thing about this guide is that you can take a few weeks and conquer it, or even better, revisit the region again and again. There is so much to see and do; the cultural immersion is outstanding; the tourist vibe is warm and inviting; the geography is otherworldly! Naturally, if we've overlooked something or if you want to share one of your favorite spots on the Lake, please do. All you have to do is mention Atitlán in conversation and eyes mist over with fondness. There's no place like it. But don’t stop here… check out our guides for trips in the United States and beyond for endless adventure inspiration! Wanna Make Your Activities Even Better? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- Flash Trip: 3 Magical Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled
King Swan of Lake Bled Slovenia is a storybook land of crystalline lakes, alpine peaks, and charming towns. As with most great stops, we ended up there kind of by accident. We had just finished a wonderful but very crowded visit to Venice, Italy and were planning to head to Croatia, when I learned that there’s a super easy shuttle from the Venice airport right to Ljubljana. We didn’t have a set itinerary, so why not! We were soon delighted by the unexpected country, which has cobblestoney cafés in Ljubljana, an epic cave system, many water features, and a low-key excellent wine culture. Here we are in front of Ljubljana's famed Art Nouveau "Vurnik House"! With far fewer tourists than its neighbors (looking at you, Croatia and Italy), Slovenia has a unique mix of Balkan, Germanic, and Italian culture. Check out our Essential Guide to Slovenia for a full overview of the country’s history, language, and more! If you have just a few days to spend in the country, this Flash Trip: 3 Magical Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled will provide a delightful introduction to the country. If you’d like to spend more time exploring, check out our other itinerary: 7 Days in Slovenia: Eastern Europe's Magical Hidden Gem ! For more ideas on where to visit in Slovenia, check out our top destinations in the country. If you’re traveling with kids, we also have mega-guides on kid travel (everything from flight hacks to jet lag to our favorite travel gear). FLASH TRIP LJUBLJANA AND LAKE BLED INDEX Jump To: When to Go to Slovenia Arrival Information and Getting Around Slovenia Where to Stay in Ljubljana What to Eat in Ljubljana Your Magical 3-Day Itinerary Day 1: Ljubljana's Old Town and Castle Day 2: Lake Bled Day 3: Ljubljana's Riverwalk and Museums Slovenia with Kids When to Go to Slovenia For a full breakdown of Slovenia’s seasons, see our Essential Guide . But the TL;DR is that there’s no bad time to visit Slovenia. You can expect the usual warmer weather and bigger crowds in the summer, and for the country to slow way down in the winter – except if you visit a ski area. Arriving in Ljubljana By Plane: You’ll arrive at the small, easy Ljubljana Airport (aka Brnik, aka Jože Pučnik), about 14 miles outside of the city. Hop on a shared shuttle for around €12/person, for a 30 minute ride into town (ask about door-to-door service). Taxis are expensive and not really worth it. Uber is also active in Ljubljana, though it’ll actually just connect you with a local taxi driver. Worth checking the prices if you have kiddos or a lot of stuff! Well, hello, Slovenian duck. Or should I say qwačk? By Rental Car: If you’re traveling with kids or just like to have more control over your itinerary, we always recommend renting a car. If you arrive in Slovenia and rent a car just for your time in-country, it’s very straightforward – most of the rental agencies have lots at the airport and downtown. Slovenia has nice roads and an easy pace, so you’ll find driving around the country a breeze. We recommend waiting until you’re getting ready to leave Ljubljana to rent your car, though, as much of the center of the city is car-free. If you would like to grab the car upon arrival, check with your hotel about parking. There are two central parking lots in Congress Square (underground) and near the National University Library (NUK II) where you’ll likely leave your car during your time in Ljubljana. There is some metered street parking downtown, indicated by painted blue lines. There’s also cheaper parking along the river south of downtown, south of the St. James bridge. Fill up gas on Tivolska Cesta, just west of the train station. WS&T Travel Tip: You absolutely need a toll sticker to drive on Slovenia’s highways. The sticker is called a vinjeta (veen-YEH-tah), which you can pay for by the week (€15) or by the month (€30). If you rent a car in Slovenia, make sure it comes with the sticker. If you drive in from another country, purchase one right away at a gas station, post office, or market. You can also buy one as you approach the border, or you can buy one online here: If you don’t have one, you will get a big fine. If you are interested in renting a car to travel between countries in the region, make sure that the rental car company will allow you to travel to the countries on your list. Generally, if you’re traveling between EU countries you should be fine. Make sure your vehicle has its registration card and proof of insurance, also potentially called a “cross border card.” See our Essential Guide for more on intercountry travel, and see T’s article for a breakdown of the impossibly vague International Driver’s License (and a good laugh). By Bus: The bus station is a tiny building in the middle of a median in front of the train station. FYI for when you’re leaving town, there’s no real waiting area so you’ll kind of be chilling on the sidewalk, though there are vending machines inside. We recommend getting around the country by bus, as the travel times are usually faster than the train. In the case of Lake Bled, the bus has a much more convenient stop in town than the train. Book bus tickets online or in the kiosks inside the bus stations. Flixbus does its own thing, so you’ll need to book those tickets separately online. Flixbus does international destinations like Croatia and Austria too. WS&T Travel Tip: If you're traveling with kids, navigating buses with a car seat can be tricky. Flixbuses are supposed to have seatbelts, and we've heard that parents have successfully used car seats onboard. You can always babywear: baby facing outward, with the seatbelt around you but not the baby is safest. Otherwise, it's a gamble whether other bus companies will have seatbelts; you can try asking at the station before you purchase tickets but make sure you have a plan B. By Train:The train station is also right in the middle of town and has pretty easy connections to many major destinations in Europe and around Slovenia. By Shared Shuttle Service:If you’re on a flexible schedule, check out a company called GoOpti, which offers rides in a shared minibus. Book through their website, and then the day before you’ll receive exact timing based on the needs of the other passengers. It can be a great, cheap way to get around. Getting Around Ljubljana Ljubljana is super walkable, and we actually walked everywhere including to/from the bus station. Depending on your needs, you can also use Uber – which connects to local taxi drivers. Be aware that jumping in a taxi from the train station or other touristed area may lead to higher fares. If you’re into biking, rent a bike from TI or register online for a city biking program called BicikeLJ. Super fun and easy! Finally, Ljubljana has a fleet of little shuttles called Kavalirs which you can wave down and ride for free. Look for the cute green electric carts. Where to Stay in Ljubljana The city is small enough that you can’t really go wrong, though you’ll likely be happier if you stay in a central location so it’s easy to walk everywhere. Our Hotel Recommendations in Ljubljana: Hotel Lev: Slightly outside the city center, this sleek, modern hotel has solid amenities (including a gym) and a nice breakfast buffet for a great price. B&B Hotel Ljubljana Park: Clean, easy hotel with a pretty good breakfast, a short walk from the Dragon bridge. Vander Urbani Resort: Splurge pick! Urban oasis nestled right on the riverfront, with a pool. There are also many options that are more like little apartments for rent on both hotels.com and Airbnb. Where to Eat in Ljubljana: Check out our Essential Guide to Slovenia for an overview of the most typical Slovenian dishes you'll find in the country - very helpful for your first time ordering food! Mixed grill at Bašċaršija for the win Baščaršija: This was our first stop in Slovenia, and we weren’t disappointed by the big mixed grill meat/pepper sauce situation. Delicious! EK Bistro : Can’t-miss-it brunch spot. Figovec: Delicious Slovenian spot favored by locals. You’ll want to take a happy nap after your meal. Supernatural: For something completely different… we took a break from Balkan food for a great lunch at this central spot. We had huevos rancheros and pork spare ribs – go figure! Gostilna na Gradu : White tablecloth Slovenian fare up at the castle; one of the more delicious local options you’ll find in town. Along the graffitied street of Trubarjeva Cesta , you’ll find a range of budget options from pizza to Asian noodles. We found a Mediterranean spot with delicious falafels and went twice. Can't get enough of the outdoor market! WS&T Healthy Options: You can’t go wrong with a fresh picnic from the farmer’s market. Load up on veggies and fresh fruits to counteract the heavier Balkan stews and dumplings. We also enjoyed a meal at Güjžina , which is a vegan Slovenian restaurant. Surprisingly yummy! Okay, now let the itinerary begin! Flash Trip: 3 Magical Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled Itinerary Day 1: Ljubljana Welcome to Ljubljana! We were totally charmed by this lovely little city, which is very easily walkable. You can see all the major sights in a full day or a more leisurely day and a half, though we could easily have spent more time sitting in cafés or wandering the riverbank. It’s definitely a more relaxed pace of both tourism and life here compared to neighboring Italy, and you won’t see the same kind of grand buildings and bucket-list historic sights. But we really enjoyed everything we saw and did in Ljubljana! WS&T Tip: Most museums are closed on Mondays, and the city slows way down on Sundays and in August in general. As you begin your exploration of Ljubljana, you’ll find that you'll slow your pace to a stroll through this compact city. Make sure you spend at least one of your meal or break times along the river embankment between the Triple Bridge and the Cobbler Bridge, sipping on an espresso, glass of wine, or tucking into a Slovenian stew. Start off your exploration of Ljubljana in Prešeren Square (aka Prešernov Trg), the heart of the small city. The square is named after Slovenia’s favorite poet (and author of the National Anthem), France Prešeren: God’s blessing on all nations Who long and work for that bright day When o’er earth’s habitations No war, no strife shall hold its sway Who long to see That all men free No more shall foes, but neighbours be! Directly in front of you, you’ll see Ljubljana’s famed Triple Bridge (Tromostovje; you’ll recognize the word “Most” – bridge – if you’ve traveled in other Eastern European countries), designed by Slovenia’s top architect and Ljubljana visionary, Jože Plečnik – more on him everywhere. Just down the street, you’ll see the art deco Hauptmann House – sole survivor in this area of a big earthquake in 1985 – and a large scale-model of the city center. The glass awning’ed building is the Galerija Emporium , a high-end mall worth peeking in to see the grand staircase. Keep looking up as you wander down Miklošičeva Cesta – there’s architectural gems everywhere. On the East side of the river, you’ll find the wonderful Riverside Market , an outdoor farmer’s market bringing together farmers and small vendors from around the country. We bought fruit, coffee, and oddly a whole head of Romanesco to munch on as we wandered about. You can find souvenirs along the riverside colonnade (another Plečnik design) as well as several cute restaurants. E + Bronze Bishops At the end of the souvenir stalls, you’ll find the Small Market Square , in which you’ll find the market hall , where the local food vending continues. Here you’ll also spot the St. Nicholas Cathedral , where you enter through a very eye-catching side door with a series of sculpted bishops. The exit takes you through the main bronze door, a true artistic accomplishment which tells Slovenia’s story in sculptural form. The cathedral has slightly odd hours, so if it’s not open, come back later! Emerging at the opposite end of the square to the East, you’ll enter the Main Market Square and spot the iconic Dragon Bridge . Dragons have long been a totem of Ljubljana, and you can admire this Art Nouveau representation. From the Main Market Square, you can take a funicular ride to the Ljubljana Castle for about €6 round trip. The funicular runs every 10 minutes while the castle is open, and takes a blink-and-you-miss it 60 seconds to reach its destination. The castle is a modern-ish replica of a much-iterated historical structure, and definitely one of the less interesting European castles we’ve seen. But there are great views and some interesting additional attractions up here, including the Slovenian History Exhibition, a “Virtual Castle” animated film, and the intriguing Museum of Puppetry. All hail an Art Nouveau dragon! We recommend timing this excursion during lunchtime and dining on traditional Slovenian cuisine at the delicious Gostilna na Gradu . Back down by the river, you’ll enter the pedestrian zone of Ljubljana’s Old Town. Check out the Fountain of the Three Carniolian Rivers in the Town Square, then window shop (or real-shop) along the delightful Mesti Trg Old Town Shopping area. You’ll find all kinds of traditional Slovenian products, from tea to salt to handicrafts. Eventually you’ll reach Gornji Trg square, from where you can loop around and walk along the riverfront. Check out Plečnik designs: Cobblers’ Bridge , National and University Library , the Gradaščica River embankments and more. In the Auersperg Palace, you can dive deep into the history of the city at the City Museum of Ljubljana , which was quite well done. A bit south of the city center (15 minutes on foot), you’ll find Jože Plečnik’s House , a perfectly-preserved historical gem where you can see where the city’s famed architect did all of his work. If the city’s architecture and style interest you, you may want to start with a visit here, which will help contextualize the city and give you extra insight for your wanderings. Apparently all Slovenians dress like this when the tourists leave. Slightly west of the city center (about 10 minutes on foot), you should definitely visit the Serbian Orthodox Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius . Amid the many, many Catholic and Protestant churches and structures in Europe, you don’t get to see too many Orthodox churches, and they are fascinating. If you’re into art and/or history, you can also explore the Museum of Modern Art , the National Gallery , and the Contemporary History Museum . We decided to check out the Slovenian Ethnographic Museum , which was an unexpected treat, with great exhibits on Slovenian people, customs, and traditions. Another fun stop is the Nebotičnik (Skyscraper), once the tallest building in Europe! It’s an Art Deco confection, and you can ride the elevator up for a free view. Keep an eye out for Roman ruins dotted around the city and be amazed at Ancient Rome’s reach! Day 2: Lake Bled Yes, you will take this photo a million times. The next day, grab an early, then head to the bus station (or your rental car) to begin the journey to Lake Bled. Lake Bled is an accessible yet romantic alpine resort town, which is both very popular and very laid-back. The pace is slow, the views are lovely, and the best thing to do is wander around the lake. Make sure that if you’re doing this trip during the peak summer tourist season, you book ahead to avoid major price hikes. We were traveling in late September and had no problem booking cheaper accommodations and restaurants last minute, but things really book up in the summer. Depending on the timing of your travel, you can either do Lake Bled as a long day trip, or you can spend one night in Bled and return back to Ljubljana the next morning. Getting from Ljubljana to Lake Bled If you’re going by car, you’ll have an easy 45-minute drive: no muss, no fuss. If you’re going by bus, grab a cheap ticket here . Buses run approximately every hour, and the journey will take you less than 90 minutes. You’ll arrive right in the center of the little town of Bled, so you’ll most likely be able to walk to your hotel. In the town of Bled, you’ll find the twisty streets of a small village, and a commercial center with a grocery store, ATM, and a bunch of big hotels. You’ll never be far from Lake Bled itself, which is the town’s main attraction. Where to Stay in Lake Bled: The area is so small that you can’t really go wrong; check the walk time from the hotel to the lake and to Bled town to see how central it is. There are quite a few “pensions” – cute B&B-type places to stay – and you’ll save some money by booking directly. Closer to the Old Town, you can try Apartments Brunko Bled. We had good luck booking an apartment-like room through Airbnb. Where to Eat in Lake Bled: We didn’t have any issues eating at these restaurants last-minute in late September, but we’ve heard that you’ll need reservations pretty much everywhere at the height of tourist summer. Art Bar : While we heard this is a lovely spot to get an evening drink, we actually came here for breakfast both mornings we were here. The omelets were delish! The Old Cellar : We really enjoyed our meal at this homey-yet-upscale spot with modern takes on Slovenian classics. We especially liked the “porcini cappuccino.” Restaurant & Wine Bar Murka: Another nice Slovenian choice, this one with more Italian influences. Oštarija Peglez'n: Big skillets to share at this Slovenian/Mediterranean spot. What to Do in Lake Bled: Duh, see the lake! Approaching the lake walk No but really, the lake is the main attraction and has a whole host of fun activities for your first day in town. We ended up doing the full lake walk every day we were there, just because we liked it so much. Lake Walk: Stroll the 6 kilometer perimeter of the lake and enjoy the many serene views and local swans. Make sure you head all the way down to the lakefront before beginning your walk, as there is a path further uphill. You can visit the island in the middle of the lake via one of Bled’s iconic pletna boats . Rent one in front of the Grand Hotel Toplice or at various other spots around the lake. €15/person round trip for a 25-minute journey and about 30 minutes to visit the island. Once there, you can wander for free, grab a Slovenian nut cake at the Potičnica café, and pay €12 to visit the island’s church. Note that last time we were there, there were no life jackets available so we recommend skipping if you have a little one who can’t swim yet. If you’d like a little exercise, rent a rowboat or stand-up paddleboard at various spots, including Pension Pletna in Milno. You can also go for a swim by the swimming pool complex. If you want a bit of thrill (during summer months only) try the Luge ride on Mount Straža! Boaty bliss Bled Castle: Fairly strenuous 20-minute climb from the lakefront, or you can drive up. This isn’t the most awe-inspiring castle you’ll see in Eastern Europe, but it was interesting, with some fun exhibits. The best thing about the castle is the gorgeous views of the lake. After you’ve had your fill of lake activities, make sure you treat yourself to Lake Bled’s signature cream cake (Blejska kremšnita or kremna rezina), sold at many bakeries around town. Grab a glass of Slovenian wine at the Vinoteka Zdravljica or a pint-and-a-football-match at Bled Pub or Devil. If you're heading back to Ljubljana tonight, make your way to the bus station or your rental car. Otherwise, enjoy your evening in this peaceful oasis! Day 3: A Relaxed Farewell to Ljubljana If you ended up back in Ljubljana last night, grab a nice breakfast and coffee this morning at EK Bistro or Art Bar if you stayed in Lake Bled. Take today to explore a little further into Ljubljana, as there are many lovely sights to see beyond the obvious! Grab a snack from the farmer's market and stroll the riverwalk, then hit up one of the museums in town! Slovenia with Kids Slovenia hits the sweet spot for family travel: it’s safe, easy to get around, full of natural beauty, and packed with fun stuff for kids. In Ljubljana, check out the interactive Minicity , where kids can role-play different grown-up jobs, or the small but charming Ljubljana Zoo . The Ljubljana Castle has a kiddo scavenger hunt that ends with a little prize from “Friderik the Castle Rat.” Love me a castle rat… If you need to burn off some big kid energy, Atlantis Water Park has fun slides and splash zones, and WOOP! has trampolines, go-karts, bowling, and more. Near Lake Bled, there’s a Dino Park nearby with life-sized replicas. And for something totally different, check out the Pohorje Treetop Walk near Maribor, where a wide wooden path winds through the forest canopy, ending with a giant slide. We hope you loved your time in Slovenia as much as we did! If you're eager for more and/or want to add on activities and sights to this Flash Trip, check out our complete 7-Day itinerary! If you're on to other destinations, check out our Flash Trips to Prague and Kraków ! Wanna Make 3 Days Go Even More Smoothly? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- 7 Days in Slovenia: Eastern Europe’s Magical Getaway
I swear, it really looks like this. Slovenia is a tranquil, charming, quietly cosmopolitan country that’ll feel like an oasis in a very popular corner of Europe. As with most great stops, we ended up there kind of by accident. We had just finished a wonderful but very crowded visit to Venice, Italy and were planning to head to Croatia, when I learned that there’s a super easy shuttle from the Venice airport right to Ljubljana. We didn’t have a set itinerary, so why not! We were soon delighted by the unexpected country, which has cobblestoney cafés in Ljubljana, an epic cave system, many water features, and a low-key excellent wine culture. Here we are in front of Ljubljana's famed Art Nouveau "Vurnik House"! With far fewer tourists than its neighbors (looking at you, Croatia and Italy), Slovenia has a unique mix of Balkan, Germanic, and Italian culture. Check out our Essential Guide to Slovenia for a full overview of the country’s history, language, and more! We have an excellent 7-Days in Slovenia itinerary here, which can be extended if you want to stay overnight in the Julian Alps or explore more corners of the country. If you’re just passing through, check out our Flash Trip: 3 Delightful Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled ! If you’re traveling with kids, we also have mega-guides on kid travel (everything from flight hacks to jet lag to our favorite travel gear). 7 Days in Slovenia Itinerary Quick Peek Jump To: When to Go to Slovenia Arrival Information and Getting Around Slovenia Days 1-3: Ljubljana (3 Nights) Day 2: Underground Cave Day Trip Days 3-6: Lake Bled (3 Nights) Day 5: Optional Day Trip through the Julian Alps Day 6: Piran (1 Night) Day 7: Return to Ljubljana Slovenia with Kids Exploring Slovenian Wine When to Go to Slovenia For a full breakdown of Slovenia’s seasons, see our Essential Guide . But the TL;DR is that there’s no bad time to visit Slovenia. You can expect the usual warmer weather and bigger crowds in the summer, and for the country to slow way down in the winter – except if you visit a ski area. Arriving in Ljubljana and Getting Around Slovenia By Plane: You’ll arrive at the small, easy Ljubljana Airport (aka Brnik, aka Jože Pučnik), about 14 miles outside of the city. Hop on a shared shuttle for around €12/person, for a 30 minute ride into town (ask about door-to-door service). Taxis are expensive and not really worth it. Uber is also active in Ljubljana, though it’ll actually just connect you with a local taxi driver. Worth checking the prices if you have kiddos or a lot of stuff! Well, hello, Slovenian duck. Or should I say qwačk? By Rental Car: If you’re traveling with kids or just like to have more control over your itinerary, we always recommend renting a car. If you arrive in Slovenia and rent a car just for your time in-country, it’s very straightforward – most of the rental agencies have lots at the airport and downtown. Slovenia has nice roads and an easy pace, so you’ll find driving around the country a breeze. We recommend waiting until you’re getting ready to leave Ljubljana to rent your car, though, as much of the center of the city is car-free. If you would like to grab the car upon arrival, check with your hotel about parking. There are two central parking lots in Congress Square (underground) and near the National University Library (NUK II) where you’ll likely leave your car during your time in Ljubljana. There is some metered street parking downtown, indicated by painted blue lines. There’s also cheaper parking along the river south of downtown, south of the St. James bridge. Fill up gas on Tivolska Cesta, just west of the train station. WS&T Travel Tip: You absolutely need a toll sticker to drive on Slovenia’s highways. The sticker is called a vinjeta (veen-YEH-tah), which you can pay for by the week (€15) or by the month (€30). If you rent a car in Slovenia, make sure it comes with the sticker. If you drive in from another country, purchase one right away at a gas station, post office, or market. You can also buy one as you approach the border, or you can buy one online here: If you don’t have one, you will get a big fine. If you are interested in renting a car to travel between countries in the region, make sure that the rental car company will allow you to travel to the countries on your list. Generally, if you’re traveling between EU countries you should be fine. Make sure your vehicle has its registration card and proof of insurance, also potentially called a “cross border card.” See our Essential Guide for more on intercountry travel, and see T’s article for a breakdown of the impossibly vague International Driver’s License (and a good laugh). By Bus: The bus station is a tiny building in the middle of a median in front of the train station. FYI for when you’re leaving town, there’s no real waiting area so you’ll kind of be chilling on the sidewalk, though there are vending machines inside. We recommend getting around the country by bus, as the travel times are usually faster than the train. In the case of Lake Bled, the bus has a much more convenient stop in town than the train. Book bus tickets online or in the kiosks inside the bus stations. Flixbus does its own thing, so you’ll need to book those tickets separately online. Flixbus does international destinations like Croatia and Austria too. WS&T Travel Tip: If you're traveling with kids, navigating buses with a car seat can be tricky. Flixbuses are supposed to have seatbelts, and we've heard that parents have successfully used car seats onboard. You can always babywear: baby facing outward, with the seatbelt around you but not the baby is safest. Otherwise, it's a gamble whether other bus companies will have seatbelts; you can try asking at the station before you purchase tickets but make sure you have a plan B. By Train: The train station is also right in the middle of town and has pretty easy connections to many major destinations in Europe and around Slovenia. By Shared Shuttle Service: If you’re on a flexible schedule, check out a company called GoOpti, which offers rides in a shared minibus. Book through their website, and then the day before you’ll receive exact timing based on the needs of the other passengers. It can be a great, cheap way to get around. Okay, let the itinerary begin! Days 1-3: Ljubljana (3 Nights) Welcome to Ljubljana! We were totally charmed by this lovely little city, which is very easily walkable. You can see all the major sights in a full day or a more leisurely day and a half, though we could easily have spent more time sitting in cafés or wandering the riverbank. It’s definitely a more relaxed pace of both tourism and life here compared to neighboring Italy, and you won’t see the same kind of grand buildings and bucket-list historic sights. But we really enjoyed everything we saw and did in Ljubljana! WS&T Tip: Most museums are closed on Mondays, and the city slows way down on Sundays and in August in general. Getting Around the City: Ljubljana is super walkable, and we actually walked everywhere including to/from the bus station. Depending on your needs, you can also use Uber – which connects to local taxi drivers. Be aware that jumping in a taxi from the train station or other touristed area may lead to higher fares. If you’re into biking, rent a bike from TI or register online for a city biking program called BicikeLJ. Super fun and easy! Finally, Ljubljana has a fleet of little shuttles called Kavalirs which you can wave down and ride for free. Look for the cute green electric carts. Where to Stay in Ljubljana: The city is small enough that you can’t really go wrong, though you’ll likely be happier if you stay in a central location so it’s easy to walk everywhere. Our Hotel Recommendations in Ljubljana: Hotel Lev: Slightly outside the city center, this sleek, modern hotel has solid amenities (including a gym) and a nice breakfast buffet for a great price. B&B Hotel Ljubljana Park: Clean, easy hotel with a pretty good breakfast, a short walk from the Dragon bridge. Vander Urbani Resort: Splurge pick! Urban oasis nestled right on the riverfront, with a pool. There are also many options that are more like little apartments for rent on both hotels.com and Airbnb. Where to Eat in Ljubljana: Mixed grill at Bašċaršija for the win Baščaršija: This was our first stop in Slovenia, and we weren’t disappointed by the big mixed grill meat/pepper sauce situation. Delicious! EK Bistro : Can’t-miss-it brunch spot. Figovec: Delicious Slovenian spot favored by locals. You’ll want to take a happy nap after your meal. Supernatural: For something completely different… we took a break from Balkan food for a great lunch at this central spot. We had huevos rancheros and pork spare ribs – go figure! Gostilna na Gradu : White tablecloth Slovenian fare up at the castle; one of the more delicious local options you’ll find in town. Along the graffitied street of Trubarjeva Cesta , you’ll find a range of budget options from pizza to Asian noodles. We found a Mediterranean spot with delicious falafels and went twice. Can't get enough of the outdoor market! WS&T Healthy Options: You can’t go wrong with a fresh picnic from the farmer’s market. Load up on veggies and fresh fruits to counteract the heavier Balkan stews and dumplings. We also enjoyed a meal at Güjžina , which is a vegan Slovenian restaurant. Surprisingly yummy! What to Do in Ljubljana: Day 1 As you begin your exploration of Ljubljana, you’ll find that everything is very walkable in this compact city. Make sure you spend at least one of your meal or break times along the river embankment between the Triple Bridge and the Cobbler Bridge, sipping on an espresso, glass of wine, or tucking into a Slovenian stew. Start off your exploration of Ljubljana in Prešeren Square (aka Prešernov Trg), the heart of the small city. The square is named after Slovenia’s favorite poet (and author of the National Anthem), France Prešeren: God’s blessing on all nations Who long and work for that bright day When o’er earth’s habitations No war, no strife shall hold its sway Who long to see That all men free No more shall foes, but neighbours be! Directly in front of you, you’ll see Ljubljana’s famed Triple Bridge (Tromostovje; you’ll recognize the word “Most” – bridge – if you’ve traveled in other Eastern European countries), designed by Slovenia’s top architect and Ljubljana visionary, Jože Plečnik – more on him everywhere. Just down the street, you’ll see the art deco Hauptmann House – sole survivor in this area of a big earthquake in 1985 – and a large scale-model of the city center. The glass awning’ed building is the Galerija Emporium , a high-end mall worth peeking in to see the grand staircase. Keep looking up as you wander down Miklošičeva Cesta – there’s architectural gems everywhere. On the East side of the river, you’ll find the wonderful Riverside Market , an outdoor farmer’s market bringing together farmers and small vendors from around the country. We bought fruit, coffee, and oddly a whole head of Romanesco to munch on as we wandered about. You can find souvenirs along the riverside colonnade (another Plečnik design) as well as several cute restaurants. E + Bronze Bishops At the end of the souvenir stalls, you’ll find the Small Market Square , in which you’ll find the market hall , where the local food vending continues. Here you’ll also spot the St. Nicholas Cathedral , where you enter through a very eye-catching side door with a series of sculpted bishops. The exit takes you through the main bronze door, a true artistic accomplishment which tells Slovenia’s story in sculptural form. The cathedral has slightly odd hours, so if it’s not open, come back later! Emerging at the opposite end of the square to the East, you’ll enter the Main Market Square and spot the iconic Dragon Bridge . Dragons have long been a totem of Ljubljana, and you can admire this Art Nouveau representation. From the Main Market Square, you can take a funicular ride to the Ljubljana Castle for about €6 round trip. The funicular runs every 10 minutes while the castle is open, and takes a blink-and-you-miss it 60 seconds to reach its destination. The castle is a modern-ish replica of a much-iterated historical structure, and definitely one of the less interesting European castles we’ve seen. But there are great views and some interesting additional attractions up here, including the Slovenian History Exhibition, a “Virtual Castle” animated film, and the intriguing Museum of Puppetry. All hail an Art Nouveau dragon! We recommend timing this excursion during lunchtime and dining on traditional Slovenian cuisine at the delicious Gostilna na Gradu . Back down by the river, you’ll enter the pedestrian zone of Ljubljana’s Old Town. Check out the Fountain of the Three Carniolian Rivers in the Town Square, then window shop (or real-shop) along the delightful Mesti Trg Old Town Shopping area. You’ll find all kinds of traditional Slovenian products, from tea to salt to handicrafts. Eventually you’ll reach Gornji Trg square, from where you can loop around and walk along the riverfront. Check out Plečnik designs: Cobblers’ Bridge , National and University Library , the Gradaščica River embankments and more. In the Auersperg Palace, you can dive deep into the history of the city at the City Museum of Ljubljana , which was quite well done. A bit south of the city center (15 minutes on foot), you’ll find Jože Plečnik’s House , a perfectly-preserved historical gem where you can see where the city’s famed architect did all of his work. If the city’s architecture and style interest you, you may want to start with a visit here, which will help contextualize the city and give you extra insight for your wanderings. Apparently all Slovenians dress like this when the tourists leave. Slightly west of the city center (about 10 minutes on foot), you should definitely visit the Serbian Orthodox Church of Saints Cyril and Methodius . Amid the many, many Catholic and Protestant churches and structures in Europe, you don’t get to see too many Orthodox churches, and they are fascinating. If you’re into art and/or history, you can also explore the Museum of Modern Art , the National Gallery , and the Contemporary History Museum . We decided to check out the Slovenian Ethnographic Museum , which was an unexpected treat, with great exhibits on Slovenian people, customs, and traditions. Another fun stop is the Nebotičnik (Skyscraper), once the tallest building in Europe! It’s an Art Deco confection, and you can ride the elevator up for a free view. Keep an eye out for Roman ruins dotted around the city and be amazed at Ancient Rome’s reach! Day 2: Day Trip to the Caves This is the only spot they let us take photos, lest you tumble into the ravine... Day 2 is dawning, and it’s time to take a day trip to one (or both!) of Slovenia’s famed caves: truly some of the most incredible cave systems in the world. Both are located in the Karst region, about an hour’s drive south of Ljubljana. There are two main cave visits, which are each located about a 45-minute drive south of Ljubljana (though the journey on public transit takes longer). The caves are also about 25 minutes apart from each other. You have a couple of options for your day trip: 1. Visit Škocjan Caves for a cave tour 2. Visit Postojna Caves for a cave tour 3. Visit both cave sites: this is only recommended if you have your own vehicle (or have booked a driver) as traveling between the sites on foot or with public transit is challenging 4. Tack on a non-cave side trip from either cave site. From Škocjan, you can visit Lipica and check out the Lipizzaner stallions, while nearby Postojna you’ll find the Predjama castle. Again, it’ll be much easier to add on one of these side trips if you have your own wheels. 5. Visit any combination of these sites on a guided day tour from Ljubljana. There are a bunch of companies providing such tours, so you can easily find a good option through a service like Viator or Get Your Guide. We’re not too into guided fun unless it’s unavoidable, so we decided to go on our own. For this day trip, we wanted to try out the public transit option and were up for a more strenuous visit, so we took the bus to visit the Škocjan Caves only. We wish we could have seen both caving systems, but we had a great day. So, Should You Visit the Škocjan Caves or the Postojna Caves? Both are very impressive, so you really can’t go wrong, but they do offer slightly different experiences. Here are the main differences: Škocjan Caves UNESCO World Heritage Site with a colossal underground canyon Less commercialized; dramatic and raw natural setting Tour length : 2 hours Walking : 1.5–2 km with stairs, inclines, and uneven paths Difficulty : Moderate. Unlike Postojna, there is no train; this is a full walking tour. There is definitely some climbing required, though if you’re in decent shape it’s totally fine. Cost : Around €24 for adults (discounts for kids, students, families) Smaller groups Postojna Caves Slovenia’s most popular and developed cave system Highly accessible with a mix of train ride and walking Tour length : 1.5 hours Walking : 1.5 km on foot, plus 3.7 km by underground electric train Difficulty : Easy. Suitable for all ages, including young children and seniors Cost : Around €29.50 for adults (combo tickets with Predjama Castle available) Well-lit and designed for high visitor volume Visiting Škocjan Caves: We were so impressed by the Škocjan Caves, which you visit with a moderately challenging walking tour which takes you through the impressive formations and over a raging underground river. It’s wild to think about the first explorers finding this cave system and deciding that yes, it was a great idea to descend into a completely dark, underground hole just for the thrill of it all. After the tour, there was a cool little museum back in the visitor’s area depicting some of these early explorers and their gear. Then we decided to do a self-guided walk around the very Slovenian village surrounding the cave. From the cave gift shop, we got a walking map with certain sights marked along the route. We didn’t see anyone else along the way, and it was very picturesque and fun! T revealed that he has an incredible donkey call as he lured this donkey buddy across the field to say hi. Just when I thought I couldn’t love him any more… Getting to Škocjan Caves: If you are going on your own and not with a group tour, you have three options: By Rental Car: Probably the easiest way to go, especially if you want to combine this visit with Postojna, Lipica, or the Predjama Castle. See above for info about renting a car in Ljubljana. By Bus or Train: T the donkey whisperer From Ljubljana’s central bus station or next-door train station, grab a bus or train to Divača. The buses run approximately every 2-3 hours, and the ride is 1.5 hours. We made an easy online booking here . When you arrive at the Divača station, your next step will depend on the time of year. From May to October, they run 5 free shuttle buses per day from the train station – ask about this at the train station. If you’re outside of those months, there are no shuttles. We opted to walk (we were feeling very energetic that day), which took about 40 mins. Otherwise you can apparently call a local taxi and we heard about the ToyotaGO option, kind of like Uber. For the return trip, we’d looked up the bus schedule and had purchased a round trip, so we just went back to the spot where we were dropped off originally. There wasn’t much in the way of signage and we were really wondering what we were doing in the middle of nowhere in Slovenia for a second… but the bus showed up and all was well. Overall, we were ready to spend the whole day and a lot of walking on this experience and we had an awesome time. But if this sounds like a pain, we recommend either doing Postojna or renting a car. Škocjan Cave Tour Details: · €16-24 for the tour, depending on time of year · The tours depart every hour during peak season, and a little less frequently off-season. Check online for details and to pre-book. · Bathrooms by the ticket office but none underground · Lockers at ticket office · There’s a simple but pretty good café Additional Visit from Škocjan: the Lipica Stud Farm (Kobilarna Lipica) Lipizzaners for life! About a 10-minute drive from the Škocjan Caves is the Lipica Stud Farm, where you can meet the famed Lipizzaner horses in a small, up-close environment. You’ll be able to go on a tour of the farm, watch a training session, and visit a very nice little museum. On some days, you’ll get a real treat: the stallions will perform their intricate prancing maneuvers. Visiting Postojna Caves: The Postojna Caves are super impressive and I’m sure you’ll hear about the famed underground train that runs through part of the caving system. It’s also a lot more crowded, and more of a contained experience than Škocjan. If you have any mobility concerns, have small kids, or just want a more tourist-friendly experience, this is the spot! You really won’t be disappointed by either caving system. Getting to Postojna Caves: Rental Car is an easy 45-minute drive, and will provide a no-stress way to combine this with any of the other nearby sights. There is paid parking about a third of a mile away from the main entrance (look for the big tour buses). By Bus (train is possible but less convenient): There are about three buses per day from the central Ljubljana bus station which take you directly to the caves. Postojna Cave Tour Details: · €29 for the tour, or €41 for a combo ticket with the castle (including a shuttle between the two sites, which runs only during the summer months) · The tours depart every hour or half hour during peak season, and a little less frequently off-season. Check online for details and to pre-book. Additional Visit from Postojna: Predjama Castle (Predjamski Grad): About 10-15 minutes’ worth of windy road away from Postojna, you’ll find the very scenic Predjama Castle essentially mounted in a cave. The exterior is free to view, and you’ll pay about €18 to go inside. There’s not much to see inside, but you’ve come all this way… Make sure you learn the local legend of the castle! After all this touring, you’ll finally make your way back to cozy Ljubljana, which is probably starting to feel like home – even after a day. Grab drinks or dinner along the riverside and people-watch until it’s time to sleep! Day 3: Travel to Lake Bled Yes, you will take this photo a million times. The next day, grab some coffee and breakfast at EK Bistro or Oakberry, then head to the bus station (or your rental car) to begin the journey to Lake Bled. Make sure that if you’re doing this trip during the peak summer tourist season, you book ahead to avoid major price hikes. We were traveling in late September and had no problem booking cheaper accommodations last minute, but things really book up in the summer. Lake Bled is an accessible yet romantic alpine resort town, which is both very popular and very laid-back. The pace is slow, the views are lovely, and the best thing to do is wander around the lake. Getting from Ljubljana to Lake Bled If you’re going by car, you’ll have an easy 45-minute drive: no muss, no fuss. If you’re going by bus, grab a cheap ticket here . Buses run approximately every hour, and the journey will take you less than 90 minutes. You’ll arrive right in the center of the little town of Bled, so you’ll most likely be able to walk to your hotel. In the town of Bled, you’ll find the twisty streets of a small village, and a commercial center with a grocery store, ATM, and a bunch of big hotels. You’ll never be far from Lake Bled itself, which is the town’s main attraction. Where to Stay in Lake Bled: The area is so small that you can’t really go wrong; check the walk time from the hotel to the lake and to Bled town to see how central it is. There are quite a few “pensions” – cute B&B-type places to stay – and you’ll save some money by booking directly. Closer to the Old Town, you can try Apartments Brunko Bled. We had good luck booking an apartment-like room through Airbnb. Where to Eat in Lake Bled: We didn’t have any issues eating at these restaurants last-minute in late September, but we’ve heard that you’ll need reservations pretty much everywhere at the height of tourist summer. Art Bar : While we heard this is a lovely spot to get an evening drink, we actually came here for breakfast both mornings we were here. The omelets were delish! The Old Cellar : We really enjoyed our meal at this homey-yet-upscale spot with modern takes on Slovenian classics. We especially liked the “porcini cappuccino.” Restaurant & Wine Bar Murka: Another nice Slovenian choice, this one with more Italian influences. Oštarija Peglez'n: Big skillets to share at this Slovenian/Mediterranean spot. What to Do in Lake Bled: Duh, see the lake! Approaching the lake walk No but really, the lake is the main attraction and has a whole host of fun activities for your first day in town. We ended up doing the full lake walk every day we were there, just because we liked it so much. Lake Walk: Stroll the 6 kilometer perimeter of the lake and enjoy the many serene views and local swans. Make sure you head all the way down to the lakefront before beginning your walk, as there is a path further uphill. You can visit the island in the middle of the lake via one of Bled’s iconic pletna boats . Rent one in front of the Grand Hotel Toplice or at various other spots around the lake. €15/person round trip for a 25-minute journey and about 30 minutes to visit the island. Once there, you can wander for free, grab a Slovenian nut cake at the Potičnica café, and pay €12 to visit the island’s church. Note that last time we were there, there were no life jackets available so we recommend skipping if you have a little one who can’t swim yet. If you’d like a little exercise, rent a rowboat or stand-up paddleboard at various spots, including Pension Pletna in Milno. You can also go for a swim by the swimming pool complex. If you want a bit of thrill (during summer months only) try the Luge ride on Mount Straža! Boaty bliss Bled Castle: Fairly strenuous 20-minute climb from the lakefront, or you can drive up. This isn’t the most awe-inspiring castle you’ll see in Eastern Europe, but it was interesting, with some fun exhibits. The best thing about the castle is the gorgeous views of the lake. After you’ve had your fill of lake activities, make sure you treat yourself to Lake Bled’s signature cream cake (Blejska kremšnita or kremna rezina), sold at many bakeries around town. After dinner, grab a glass of Slovenian wine at the Vinoteka Zdravljica or a pint-and-a-football-match at Bled Pub or Devil. Day 4: Vintgar Gorge The only photo we have from the Gorge... Vintgar Gorge is a gorge-ous (I’m so sorry, I had to do it) one-way hike, in which you walk one-way for about two hours on boardwalks through the middle of the River Radovna… one-way. Have you noticed that I keep saying “one-way?” Well that’s because T and I are complete dummies and didn’t realize that the hike wasn’t in-and-out. We decided to drink in the views sans phones for the full hike, assuming we’d be able to snap some pics on the way back. Lo and behold, the hike spits you out at the other end and there’s no reentry. Oops. Anyway, trust us, it was beautiful. Take pictures on the way. This is a very popular sight in summertime, so book tickets online ahead of time here as it can sell out. It costs €15 for adults and €5 for kids over 3. The website also has a cute kid’s audio scavenger hunt thingy. It’s not stroller-friendly, so babywear if needed. Getting to Vintgar Gorge from Bled: Walking: Once again, we decided to go for a long stroll – about an hour each way. It was lovely countryside and we really enjoyed the walk, though it made for a long day since you had to retrace your steps from the far side of the gorge. Driving: Super easy 10-minute drive from Bled. Rent a Bike: You can rent bikes at the Tourist Information Center (TIC) in town for lovely cycle to the gorge. Shuttle Bus: You can book an easy shuttle at the Tourist Information Center (TIC) in town or at Mamut travel center. The nice thing about the shuttle is that it retrieves you closer to the gorge hike exit, so you don’t have to walk all the way back. At the End of the Gorge Hike: 'Twas a lovely hike! You’ll either follow the Green Trail or the Red Trail. Green takes you up to the Church of Sveta Katarina (Saint Catherine), a strenuous 25 minutes uphill and then about 30 minutes back down to the gorge entrance. Red is a faster but steeper walk, taking about 45 mins. Head left toward the cemetery in Blejska Dobrava, then back to the gorge entrance. In keeping with the relaxed pace of Lake Bled life, you can head back into town, hang by the lake, or grab a nap and an evening glass of wine… But, if you’re particularly into bees, you might want to visit the quaint, quite small town of Radovljica, about 15 minutes away from Bled. The Apicultural Museum will tell you everything you’ve ever wanted to know about Slovenia’s long tradition of beekeeping. Lake Bohinj If you need a little more alpine lake-age in your life, or you’d like to really get away from the crowds and relax for a day or two, consider an additional trip to Lake Bohinj. I’m not naming any names, but some people think it’s a bit boring… while others find it the perfect relaxing getaway. It’s set in the middle of the mountains inside Triglav National Park, and is very calm and feels more nature-y than Bled. You can swim, hike, rent a canoe, or just relax by the water. Getting there from Bled is about a 35-minute drive or bus ride. If you decide to go, check out the Vogel Mountain cable car, from which you can get a glorious view of the surrounding Alps. And if you’re up for a more strenuous hike, the Savica Waterfall is a hidden gem. Also, the word for waterfall in Slovenian is “slap.” That really made me laugh. I am giggling right now. Day 5: Optional Road Trip in the Julian Alps If you’re loving the relaxed pace of Lake Bled or want to check out Lake Bohinj, feel free to save this stop for your next trip to Slovenia. Otherwise, you can set out from Lake Bled for a beautiful drive through the Julian Alps. You’ll want either a rental car or a full-day taxi driver for this excursion! The Julian Alps are the height of Slovenia’s natural beauty. Centered around Triglav National Park, the region is a paradise for hikers, road-trippers, and anyone chasing some high-altitude peace and quiet. Note that summer and early fall offer the best weather for hiking and driving mountain roads (Vršič Pass is often closed due to snow in winter), so check the weather conditions through Bled’s Tourist Information Center before you head out. Stunning scenery! For this road trip, you’ll be driving along the Vršič Pass: the highest mountain road in Slovenia and one of Europe’s most scenic drives, with 50 hairpin turns winding up and over the mountains. Along the way, you can stop to stretch your legs at lookouts, visit the Russian Chapel, or hike several short trails into the surrounding peaks. On the other side of the pass lies the Soča Valley, home to the Soča River, which is famous for its turquoise color and crystal-clear rapids. If you’re in an adventuring mood, it’s the place to go for whitewater rafting, canyoning, or fly fishing, but it’s also just a lovely place for a picnic by the riverbank. Don’t miss Peričnik Waterfall, where you can walk behind the cascading water, or a stop at one of the mountain huts ( planinske koče ) for a hearty bowl of stew and a cold local beer. The drive takes about 5 hours (covering about 100 km), so if you have extra time, consider spending a night along the way. Vršič Pass Scenic Drive Details 1. Drive from Lake Bled to Kranjska Gora (45 min) Take the road toward Jesenice (via the A2 highway or local road 209). Exit toward Kranjska Gora , a charming alpine town and your last big stop before climbing the pass. Option: Stop in Zelenci Nature Reserve just outside of town—it’s a quick walk to a small spring with vivid turquoise water. 2. From Kranjska Gora, begin your ascent of the Vršič Pass (1 hour with stops) Follow signs for Vršič Pass / Trenta / Bovec . You’ll climb through 50 numbered hairpin turns (24 up, 26 down on the south side). Key Stops: Russian Chapel (Kapelica Ruski križ): Built by WWI prisoners of war who helped build the road. Viewpoints : You’ll find several pullouts with panoramic views of Mount Prisojnik and the Julian Alps. Top of the pass (1,611 m / 5,285 ft) : There’s a small parking area, a hut where you can grab tea or soup, and short trails with incredible vistas. 3. Descend into the Soča Valley (45 min) The road down is just as curvy but more wooded and lush. At the bottom, you’ll reach the village of Trenta , then follow the road along the stunning Soča River toward Bovec . Additional Options: Soča Valley : Spend time in Bovec (whitewater rafting, ziplining, or riverside relaxing). Great Soča Gorge : Short detour for a walk along crystal-clear canyon pools. Kobarid : There's an excellent WWI museum here. If you head back to Lake Bled, grab a drink by the lake for one last evening then enjoy dinner at one of the traditional Slovenian (or pizza/burger joints) in town. Get some rest because tomorrow we're off on another adventure. Day 6: Piran (1 Night) On Day 6, we’re heading to Slovenia’s Adriatic Coast. It’s a wee 47 kilometers (compared to Croatia’s 1777 kms), but it’s quite charming! Perfect way to round out your week in Slovenia. WS&T Travel Tip: If you’re loving Ljubljana or decide that a relaxed overnight in Piran isn’t necessary for you, you can always spend the night in the city and do Piran as a day trip. We have a bit of a transit day here on day 6, though if you have your own car this will be a breezy drive from Lake Bled to Piran (under 2 hours). Make sure you park your car quickly, though, because Piran is not built for cars. You’ll find a big parking garage just outside of town, where you’ll pay per hour or per day – ask your hotel if they validate. Exit from floor 1 of the garage, and just 50 yards away at the locals’ waterfront parking spot (Fornače), you’ll find a free shuttle into town. Otherwise, it’s a 15-minute walk. If you’re taking the bus, you’ll have to bus back from Bled to Ljubljana then jump on another bus to Piran. It’ll take a bit of time especially if you have to wait between buses, but they all run frequently and the bus stations are right in (each) town. You can grab some lunch in Ljubljana if you have a long wait. Piran's lovely harbor Once you arrive in Piran, you’ll likely find yourself in or near Tartini Square, the central spot in this small town. Try Art Hotel Tartini or PachaMama Pleasant Stay – both good options at either end of the price spectrum for your overnight. After checking into your hotel and depositing your luggage, it’s time for the short but sweet tour of Piran. Start at Tartini Square, where you’ll spot a sculpture of Mr. Giuseppe Tartini – a famous violinist for whom the square is named. You’ll spot Piran’s Town Hall, marked with the winged lion of St. Mark – symbol of the once incredibly powerful Republic of Venice. Check out the cute shop on the ground level of the Venetian House, the oldest preserved house on Tartini Square. Next, you’ll want to check out St. George’s Cathedral and its big ol’ bell tower, which is worth a climb if you’re up for it and the weather is good. The large port city just across the water is Trieste, Italy. If you’d like to keep exploring, you can head down a series of twisty alleys and streets to the waterfront embankment, along which you can head towards Piran’s lighthouse. Otherwise, grab a delicious gelato at Mersii, then head back to Tartini for some people watching and a well-deserved libation. Before dinner, wash off the travel day at one of several swimming options: the free, public pool right in front of the Hotel Piran (think concrete, not sand – but it’s still quite pleasant). If you have a car, pop over to Portorož, which has a nice boardwalk and sandy beach you can enjoy. Tonight, enjoy a leisurely dinner at Restaurant Neptun (a bit of a seafood splurge!) or Pri Mari . As with every tourist spot in this part of the world, you may want ot book ahead if you’re coming in peak summer tourist season. Day 7: Return to Ljubljana Your time in Slovenia is coming to an end! We were seriously sad to leave this charming country and we can’t wait to come back for more. Today, make your way back to Ljubljana either in your rental car or retracing your steps by bus. Head back to the beginning of this itinerary to find anything you may have missed in Ljubljana; now’s your chance to find a few more of Ljubljana’s hidden gems (of which there are many!). We hope you’ve enjoyed your time here as much as we did! Slovenia with Kids Slovenia hits the sweet spot for family travel: it’s safe, easy to get around, full of natural beauty, and packed with fun stuff for kids. In Ljubljana, check out the interactive Minicity , where kids can role-play different grown-up jobs, or the small but charming Ljubljana Zoo . The Ljubljana Castle has a kiddo scavenger hunt that ends with a little prize from “Friderik the Castle Rat.” Love me a castle rat… If you need to burn off some big kid energy, Atlantis Water Park has fun slides and splash zones, and WOOP! has trampolines, go-karts, bowling, and more. Near Lake Bled, there’s a Dino Park nearby with life-sized replicas. And for something totally different, check out the Pohorje Treetop Walk near Maribor, where a wide wooden path winds through the forest canopy, ending with a giant slide. Touring Slovenian Wine Regions Slovenia's famous heart-shaped vineyard One of my favorite topics! Slovenian wine is a hidden gem in the world of viticulture. With 2500 years of winemaking history and an array of microclimates, Slovenia punches well above its weight wine-wise (say that 10 times fast). Slovenia has three distinct wine regions: Primorska (Coastal Region) lies along the Italian border and enjoys a Mediterranean climate, making it ideal for bold reds and crisp, mineral-driven whites. It’s known for varietals like Rebula (Ribolla Gialla), Malvazija (Malvasia), and rich Merlots and Cabernets . The Vipava Valley is especially notable for its experimental orange wines (I love an orange wine!) and native grapes like Zelen and Pinela . Podravje (Drava Region) in eastern Slovenia is the country’s largest wine region, specializing in elegant, aromatic white wines such as Šipon (Furmint), Laški Rizling (Welschriesling), and Sauvignon Blanc . This region is also known for its excellent late-harvest and sweet wines , thanks to the cooler climate. Posavje (Sava Region) is located in the hills and valleys of southeastern Slovenia and is known for producing accessible, everyday wines. It’s home to Cviček , a unique low-alcohol and slightly sour red blend. The region also produces dry whites and sparkling wines, and many vineyards here continue to follow traditional winemaking methods. Can tell by the empty bottle that we loved this one... If you’re thinking about exploring Slovenia through its wines, you’re in for a treat. Most wineries are family-run, often tucked into beautiful hillsides where you’ll sip with the winemaker themselves. In the Primorska Coastal Region, Goriška Brda is often called “Slovenia’s Tuscany,” with rolling vineyards, terracotta rooftops, and spectacular views. It’s a great spot for elegant whites, orange wines, and reds like Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Don’t miss Movia (a pioneer of natural and orange wines), Klet Brda (the largest co-op with a lovely tasting terrace), or bold winemaker Edi Simčič . Just south of there, the Vipava Valley is quieter and more rugged, home to indigenous grape varieties like Zelen and Pinela. Burja Estate , Tilia Estate , and Lepa Vida are known for thoughtful, organic wines. If you head northeast, Jeruzalem and the Štajerska region offer gentle green hills and cool-climate whites like Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, plus sparkling and sweet wines. Stop by Puklavec Family Wines or Kogl Winery and be sure to see the famous heart-shaped vineyard road near Špičnik. Many wineries are by appointment only, so it’s a good idea to book tastings in advance. To relax and really enjoy the wine, consider staying overnight at a vineyard guesthouse—like Kmetija Štoka or Kmetija Stekar —or join a guided tour from Ljubljana or Maribor. Companies like Slovenia Wine Tours or Winestronaut offer full-day excursions with tastings and local snacks (yay!). Tastings usually cost around €10–20 and often include bites of cheese, bread, or cured meats. And wherever you go, you’ll get to try something distinctly Slovenian: Rebula in Brda, Cviček in the southeast, or a funky skin-contact white aged in clay amphorae. Oh my gosh, take me back! Our Essential Guide to Slovenia will answer lots of questions about the country in general, so make sure to check it out before or during your trip. If you’re continuing on in Europe, here are our guides to Prague and Kraków – both favorites of ours and super kid-friendly! Traveling with a Tiny Trekker? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- The Essential Guide to Slovenia: Eastern Europe’s Magical Hidden Gem
Lake Bled lookin' fly. Between the peaks of the Alps and the crystalline Adriatic Sea... Slovenia is a gem of a country country that’s long been overshadowed by the major tourist draws surrounding it (Italy & Croatia, to name two). We found the scene in Slovenia charming and very friendly, with enough sights and activities to keep us busy and an abundance of natural beauty. It’s easy to see a lot of the country in a short time (it’s a little smaller than New Jersey, with a quarter the population), but it’ll leave you wanting more. It ended up being one of our favorite stops on our last Euro-trip… and it was totally unplanned. Out on the town in Ljubljana! T and I are all about elaborate itineraries that we follow… for a while. We tend to have a plan, begin the plan, then take a major pivot at some point along the way, either because of socio-political events (e.g. a coup in Peru), unique opportunities (e.g. Argentina in the World Cup Finals), or E being a big complainer (e.g. that time it was too hot in the Yucatan). Anyway, that’s how we ended up in Slovenia. We were on a (planned) stop in Venice, Italy, and I noticed that you could take a shuttle bus to Slovenia… so we did! Read our Essential Guide to Slovenia to learn all the basics to prepare for your trip, then check out our 7-Day Guide to Slovenia , Flash Trip: 3 Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled , and our favorite places to go in Slovenia ! Your Essential Guide to Slovenia Index Jump To: Tell Me About Slovenia! When is the Best Time to Visit Slovenia? Can I Travel to Slovenia on a Budget? Can I Get By with English in Slovenia? What Are Some Basic Words and Phrases in Slovenian? How do You Travel Around Slovenia? What Are Some of the Top Sights in Slovenia? What Should I Eat and Drink in Slovenia? Tell Me About Slovenia! Stop looking at me, swan! Slovenia has long sat at the crossroads of history. First settled by Celts and Illyrians, it was then absorbed into the Roman Empire (you can still find Roman ruins in unexpected places). After Rome fell, wave after wave of new rulers came through—Slavs, Bavarians, the Holy Roman Empire, the Habsburgs. For a long time, Slovenia was essentially a scenic outpost of someone else’s empire. But after World War I, Slovenia shed its longtime rulers, the once mighty (and now very defeated) Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Slovenes joined the Serbs and Croats in forming a new kingdom, hoping to stand united against Italy’s territorial ambitions. These three peoples created the union of South Slavs: Yugoslavia. "Tito" (Josip Broz) ruled Yugoslavia from 1945 until his death in 1980. After Tito broke from Stalin in 1948, Yugoslavia was an anomaly among the communist bloc countries, but Slovenia always stood out even within Yugoslavia. Slovenia was the most industrialized and economically developed republic in the federation, with better infrastructure, stronger trade ties with Western Europe, and a more liberal cultural scene. Slovenia shares borders with Italy and Austria, so more Western goods filtered into the country during communist times, like jeans, records, magazines. Slovenes traveled abroad more freely than their southern neighbors. Their educational system was also stronger than the other Slavic nations. Vintgar Gorge In 1991, Slovenia became the first republic to break away from Yugoslavia, declaring independence with surprising swiftness and minimal conflict compared to its neighbors. Since then, Slovenia has charted its own path, joining the EU in 2004 and becoming one of the continent’s most quietly progressive, eco-friendly, and well-run countries. These days, Slovenia is a haven for nature lovers, wine drinkers, and travelers eager to explore different corners of Europe beyond Paris, Rome, and Prague (but also… go to Prague !). You can paddle through glassy green rivers, hike picture-perfect mountain trails, or enjoy a glass of wine in charming capital city Ljubljana. We so enjoyed our time in Slovenia and can’t wait to return and explore more corners of the country! When is the Best Time to Visit Slovenia? Slovene bliss Are we a broken record yet? There’s no bad time to travel, and sometimes school or work schedules dictate the trip. Here’s what you can expect Slovenia’s weather to be like at each time of the year. June–September: High Season Warm, tranquil summer is Slovenia’s busiest time, perfect for lake swims, alpine hikes, and strolls through Ljubljana’s café-lined streets. National parks are lush and lively, and the Julian Alps are lookin’ mighty fine. Expect bigger crowds in hot spots like Lake Bled, so book early and plan for popular sites to be busy. But remember, even in high season Slovenia sees way fewer tourists than other places in Europe. By comparison, in 2023 Paris saw around 48 million tourists, Rome saw 35 million, and all of Slovenia only saw 6.5 million (1.5 million of whom were locals). Temperatures: Lowlands & Cities (Ljubljana, Lake Bled): • Highs: 24–30°C (75–86°F) • Lows: 13–17°C (55–63°F) Mountains (Triglav National Park, Alpine areas): • Cooler by ~5–8°C (9–14°F) • Highs: 18–22°C (64–72°F) April–May & October: Shoulder Season Spring and fall are ideal if you want mild weather and fewer people. Wildflowers and green hills make April and May especially lovely, while October brings golden forests and grape harvests in the wine regions (Slovenia has great wine!). The weather is generally pleasant, but you’ll want a light jacket and maybe an umbrella just in case. Temperatures: Spring (April–May): • Highs: 14–22°C (57–72°F) • Lows: 5–11°C (41–52°F) Fall (October): • Highs: 13–18°C (55–64°F) • Lows: 4–9°C (39–48°F) November–March: Off Season Slovenia quiets down in winter, unless you’re into skiing. Outside the ski resorts, it’s a calm, cozy time to visit. Prices are lower, crowds are few, and a snowy castle or thermal spa visit might be just the ticket. Temperatures:Lowlands (Ljubljana, Maribor): • Highs: 2–9°C (36–48°F) • Lows: -3 to 2°C (27–36°F) Mountains & Ski Areas: • Sub-zero at night, with highs between -5 to 4°C (23–39°F) Can I Travel to Slovenia on a Budget? Will Work 4 Carrots! While prices increase all over Europe during popular summer months, we found that Slovenia was pleasantly inexpensive. It’s not quite “cheap” but definitely didn’t break the bank. Expect to spend about $60-$130 a night on lodging (that range reflects the gamut between private rooms in guesthouses and mid-range hotels), $30-$50 on food, and another $20 or so on transport and activities. Public buses and trains are affordable, and many of Slovenia’s top experiences (hiking, lakeside picnics, or wandering historic towns) are low-cost or totally free. Your money will go a long way here, especially if you avoid peak summer weekends in popular spots like Lake Bled. If you really want to have a budget-friendly, local experience, try staying at one of over 400 “tourist farms:” working farms where you can room and board, with hearty local meals included, for as little as €60/night. Can I Get By with English in Slovenia? Short answer: yes. We found English to be fairly ubiquitous in the tourist enclaves, or at least enough English to convey what we wanted to buy/eat etc. Though we didn’t stray too far into small villages during our visit where we might perhaps have had more difficulty, we found communicating in English to be no problem. What Are Some Basic Words and Phrases in Slovenian? Here's your intro to Slovenian guide! · Živjo (ZHEE-vyoh) – Hello · Dobro jutro (DOH-broh YOO-troh) – Good morning · Dober dan (DOH-behr dahn) – Good afternoon · Dober večer (DOH-behr veh-CHER) – Good evening / Good night · Adijo / Nasvidenje (ah-DEE-yoh / nah-svee-DEN-yeh) – Bye / Goodbye · Prosim (PROH-seem) – Please · Hvala (HVAH-lah) – Thank you · Ni za kaj (nee zah KAI) – You’re welcome · Oprostite / Se opravičujem (oh-PROH-stee-teh / seh oh-prah-VEE-choo-yehm) – Excuse me / Sorry · Kje je…? (kyeh yeh…?) – Where is…? · Koliko stane? (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh?) – How much does it cost? · Ne govorim slovensko (neh goh-VOH-reem slo-VEHN-skoh) – I don’t speak Slovenian · Govorite angleško? (goh-voh-REE-teh ahn-GLESH-koh?) – Do you speak English? · Voda (VOH-dah) – Water · Kava (KAH-vah) – Coffee · Pivo (PEE-voh) – Beer How do You Travel Around Slovenia? Rental Car: If you’re traveling with kids or just like to have more control over your itinerary, we always recommend renting a car. If you arrive in Slovenia and rent a car just for your time in-country, it’s very straightforward – most of the rental agencies have lots at the airport and downtown. Slovenia has nice roads and an easy pace, so you’ll find driving around the country a breeze. WS&T Travel Tip: You must get a toll sticker to drive on Slovenia’s highways. The sticker is called a vinjeta (veen-YEH-tah), which you can pay for by the week (€15) or by the month (€30). If you rent a car in Slovenia, make sure it comes with the sticker. If you drive in from another country, purchase one right away at a gas station, post office, or market. You can also buy one as you approach the border, or you can buy one online here: If you don’t have one, you will get a big fine. If you are interested in renting a car to travel between countries in the region, make sure that the rental car company will allow you to travel to the countries on your list. Generally, if you’re traveling between EU countries you should be fine. Make sure your vehicle has its registration card and proof of insurance, also potentially called a “cross border card.” Green Card There’s also a proof of vehicle insurance called a Green Card , which you might need for certain countries on your route. As of this writing, you need a Green Card for: Albania, Azerbaijan, Morocco, Moldova, North Macedonia, Tunisia, Turkey and Ukraine. Look into how you can obtain one either from your own insurance or potentially from the rental car company. You might need to call your chosen rental car company directly; info is a little scant on this piece of international bureaucracy. Some places online say that you need a green card to enter Bosnia, Serbia, and Montenegro, but most agree that you don’t need the Green Card for these countries. But, don’t worry – if you don’t have a Green Card and can’t obtain one prior to travel, you just might be required to purchase additional insurance upon entering certain countries. The Green Card reminds me of another impossibly vague piece of global admin: the International Driver’s License. Please see T’s article for a breakdown (and a good laugh). Bus, Train, and Shared Shuttle Service: Slovenia also has many options for all three of these forms of transportation. We opted out of the rental car and took the FlixBus or walked everywhere; it was easy and inexpensive. More on specific routes in our itineraries! What Are Some of the Top Sights in Slovenia? Ljubljana's iconic Dragon Bridge Ljubljana Wander Slovenia’s quiet but super charming capital city. We loved the farmer’s market, cathedrals, and restaurants. Explore the Underground • Tour the jaw-dropping Postojna Cave . • See Predjama Castle , built right into a cliffside cave. • Visit Škocjan Caves , a UNESCO World Heritage site with one of the world’s largest underground canyons. Lake Bled • Rent a rowboat or hop in a pletna (traditional boat) to reach Bled Island and its postcard-perfect church. • Walk the 6 km trail around the lake. We actually did this two days in a row, we liked it so much. • Hike up to Ojstrica or Mala Osojnica for one of Europe’s most photographed views. Smell that alpine air? Hit the Mountains • Base yourself in Lake Bohinj or Kranjska Gora for hikes in Triglav National Park , Slovenia’s crown jewel. You can even climb Mount Triglav , a Slovene rite-of-passage. • Take the cable car up Mount Vogel for panoramic alpine views and skiing in the winter. Try the Wine • Explore Goriška Brda , Slovenia’s version of Tuscany, with rolling hills and boutique wineries. • Sample crisp whites in Podravje or try the funky orange wines of the Vipava Valley . • Many tastings take place in family-run cellars where folks are wine-obsessed and very unpretetentous. Pretty Piran Visit Charming Towns and Villages • Take a trip to Ptuj , Slovenia’s oldest town, with medieval vibes and a great castle museum. • Don’t miss Piran on the coast—red rooftops, Venetian charm, and sunsets over the Adriatic. Nature Galore • Raft or zipline in the Soča Valley , known for its emerald river and epic outdoor sports. • Cycle through countryside dotted with castles, vineyards, and sleepy villages. • Swim, paddleboard, or just lay on a rock at Lake Bohinj , the peaceful cousin to Bled. Slow Down and Eat! • Take the scenic route—literally. Slovenia’s backroads are full of wildflowers, stone barns, and vineyard views. • There’s tons of great food to try, from tradtional Slovenian dishes to handmade pastas and pizzas to weirdly the best Middle Eastern I’ve had in a while. Don’t forget the wine and cheese. What Should I Eat and Drink in Slovenia? Slovenian food is a hearty yet craveable mix of Italian, German, and Balkan influences, with many twists on regional specialties and few delicacies unique to the country. Mixed Grill yes puhleeeze. You’ll find these Balkan classics frequently: Burek (BOO-rehk): A savory phyllo-dough pastry which you can find with a variety of fillings, including cheese, spinach, and meat. Very similar to spanakopita, and super popular in Slovenia and the whole region. Mixed Grill (No phonetics needed): Much meat! Many veg! This is the Balkan version of a tasty cookout, featuring meat like ćevapi (che-VAH-pee): a sausage-shaped kebab of minced lamb/beef, pljeskavica (plehs-ka-VEET-sah): the patty-shaped version, ražnijići (RAZH-nyee-chee): steak skewers, pileći (PIL-eh-chi): chicken, sudžukice : sausages, and ćufte : meatballs. These meats will come with a variety of breads and grilled onions/peppers, depending on the style. Many Slovenian dishes are also served with porridge like grains (usually buckwheat or barley). Ajvar (EYE-var): A ubiquitous condiment made of roasted sweet red peppers and eggplants. Delicious enough for me to ignore my nightshade sensitivity (oy) for the duration of the trip. You’ll also find a host of cuisines borrowed and reinterpreted, like Italian pizza, Hungarian classics like goulash, and German fare (sausages, schnitzels, strudels, and sauerkraut – oh my!). Some other Slovenian delicacies to look out for: Štruklji (SHTROOK-yee): A kind of dumpling or rolled pastry and can be either sweet or savory, boiled or baked. Traditionally stuffed with one of the following: cottage cheese (skuta), walnuts, apples, tarragon, poppy seeds, herbed cheese, or sometimes meat. Jota (YOH-tah): A thick, tangy stew made with sauerkraut or sour turnip, beans, potatoes, and often some kind of smoked meat. Pršut (prshut): Slovenian prosciutto from the Karst region. What’s Up with Slovenian Wines? One of my favorite topics! Slovenian wine is a hidden gem in the world of viticulture. With 2500 years of winemaking history and an array of microclimates, Slovenia punches well above its weight wine-wise (say that 10 times fast). Slovenia has three distinct wine regions: Primorska (Coastal Region) lies along the Italian border and enjoys a Mediterranean climate, making it ideal for bold reds and crisp, mineral-driven whites. It’s known for varietals like Rebula (Ribolla Gialla), Malvazija (Malvasia), and rich Merlots and Cabernets . The Vipava Valley is especially notable for its experimental orange wines (I love an orange wine!) and native grapes like Zelen and Pinela . Podravje (Drava Region) in eastern Slovenia is the country’s largest wine region, specializing in elegant, aromatic white wines such as Šipon (Furmint), Laški Rizling (Welschriesling), and Sauvignon Blanc . This region is also known for its excellent late-harvest and sweet wines , thanks to the cooler climate. Posavje (Sava Region) is located in the hills and valleys of southeastern Slovenia and is known for producing accessible, everyday wines. It’s home to Cviček , a unique low-alcohol and slightly sour red blend. The region also produces dry whites and sparkling wines, and many vineyards here continue to follow traditional winemaking methods. Okay, hopefully this has convinced you that Slovenia is a special place and WELL worth your time! Now, on to our detailed itineraries: 7 Unexpected Days in Slovenia , and a Flash Trip: 3 Charming Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled ! Making Memories? Click below to check out some curated picks for keeping those memories safe when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Push pins, pics, tokens OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN! Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- Top 7 Destinations in Magical Slovenia
Here we are in front of Ljubljana's famed Art Nouveau "Vurnik House"! From alpine lakes to underground caves, Slovenia has must-see sights, family-friendly adventures, wine country wanderings, jaw-dropping scenery, and a truly delightful vibe. We loved our week-long romp through this unexpected country. We spontaneously added it onto a larger Euro-trip itinerary, and were not disappointed by the sights and more relaxed pace of the country. With far fewer tourists than its neighbors (looking at you, Croatia and Italy), Slovenia has a unique mix of Balkan, Germanic, and Italian culture. Check out our Essential Guide to Slovenia for a full overview of the country’s history, language, and more! Beauteous Lake Blade If this overview of the top 7 destinations in Slovenia intrigues you, we have an excellent 7-Days in Slovenia itinerary , which can be extended if you want to stay overnight in the Julian Alps or explore more corners of the country. If you’re just passing through, check out our Flash Trip: 3 Delightful Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled ! If you’re traveling with kids, we also have mega-guides on kid travel (everything from flight hacks to jet lag to our favorite travel gear). Top 6 Destinations in Slovenia Quick Peek Jump To: Ljubljana : Charming Capital City Lake Bled : Alpine Lake Bliss Slovenia's Amazing Caves Julian Alps Seaside Piran Historic Ptuj Slovenia's Wine Regions Ljubljana: Slovenia's Charming Capital City Ljubljana felt instantly welcoming; we love a totally walkable city! At first it seemed like you could see everything in just a few hours, and honestly you can cover a lot of ground in a short time if you don’t have much time in the city. But we enjoyed a few of Ljubljana’s deeper cuts (like the Ethnographic Museum) and just strolling by the riverside or sipping a glass of delish Slovenian wine. Start in Prešeren Square, the heart of the city, where a big sculpture of Slovenia’s beloved poet watches over the bustling Triple Bridge designed by local legend Jože Plečnik. Stroll along the pretty riverfront embankments between the Triple and Cobbler’s Bridges, where cafés spill onto the sidewalks. A wander through the Riverside Market brings fresh produce, souvenirs, and a peek into daily life, with St. Nicholas Cathedral nearby showcasing its stunning bronze doors. All hail an Art Nouveau dragon! Cross to the Dragon Bridge to meet Ljubljana’s iconic green guardians before riding the funicular up to Ljubljana Castle for sweeping city views (and maybe a traditional Slovenian lunch at Gostilna na Gradu). Back in the pedestrian-only Old Town, charming squares and cobbled lanes brim with shops selling tea, salt, and handicrafts, while Plečnik’s architectural touches appear everywhere you look. Museums range from modern art to puppetry to Slovenian traditions, and you’ll even spot some ancient Roman ruins. For something different, step into the Serbian Orthodox Church, climb to the rooftop of the Art Deco Nebotičnik skyscraper for a drink with a view, or visit Plečnik’s perfectly preserved home to see where the city’s visionary architect dreamed up his designs. Lake Bled: Alpine Lake Bliss Yes, you will take this photo a million times. Lake Bled is a sparkling alpine lake crowned with a tiny church-topped island and an old castle perched high on a cliff. From Ljubljana, it’s an easy 45-minute drive or a 90 minute bus ride, which drops you right into the heart of Bled’s charming little town. Once you’ve checked into your guesthouse or lakeside pension, the best thing to do is wander about. A scenic 6-kilometer path wraps around the lake, giving you shifting views of swans gliding across emerald water and the Julian Alps in the background. We did it every day we were there! Traditional pletna boats ferry visitors to the fairytale island, where you can climb the bell tower and sample Slovenia’s traditional nut cake. More active travelers can rent a rowboat, paddleboard, or even swim in summer, while thrill-seekers can zip down the summer luge ride on nearby Mount Straža. For history and panoramic views, hike or drive up to Bled Castle, where exhibits are nice but the sweeping vistas steal the show. Between strolls and sightseeing, cozy up in a local restaurant for modern Slovenian flavors, then indulge in the town’s famed cream cake. If you’re staying a second day, Vintgar Gorge is a must: a stunning, one-way boardwalk hike along the turquoise River Radovna through mossy cliffs and waterfalls. Just remember to take your photos along the way—you won’t be walking back the same route! Slovenia's Otherworldly Caves This is the only spot they let us take photos, lest you tumble into the ravine... About an hour south of Ljubljana, you’ll find two of Europe’s most impressive cave systems: Škocjan Caves and Postojna Caves. Škocjan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a jaw-dropping underground canyon and a roaring subterranean river, explored entirely on foot along winding paths and bridges. It’s a true natural wonder which we had a great time exploring. Postojna, meanwhile, is a more accessible adventure, famous for its electric train that whisks you deep into the cave’s chambers, making it an easy and fun option for kids or anyone not keen on too much climbing. If you have your own car, you can see both in a single day and even tack on a visit to the elegant Lipizzaner horses at Lipica or the Predjama Castle, which is dramatically built right into a cliffside cave. Julian Alps The Julian Alps are the height of Slovenia’s natural beauty. Centered around Triglav National Park, the region is a paradise for hikers, road-trippers, and anyone chasing some high-altitude peace and quiet. Note that summer and early fall offer the best weather for hiking and driving mountain roads (Vršič Pass is often closed due to snow in winter), so check the weather conditions through Bled’s Tourist Information Center before you head out. Stunning scenery! Drive along the Vršič Pass: the highest mountain road in Slovenia and one of Europe’s most scenic drives, with 50 hairpin turns winding up and over the mountains. Along the way, you can stop to stretch your legs at lookouts, visit the Russian Chapel, or hike several short trails into the surrounding peaks. On the other side of the pass lies the Soča Valley, home to the Soča River, which is famous for its turquoise color and crystal-clear rapids. If you’re in an adventuring mood, it’s the place to go for whitewater rafting, canyoning, or fly fishing, but it’s also just a lovely place for a picnic by the riverbank. Don’t miss Peričnik Waterfall, where you can walk behind the cascading water, or a stop at one of the mountain huts ( planinske koče ) for a hearty bowl of stew and a cold local beer. Seaside Piran Piran's lovely harbor Piran is a tiny, terracotta-tiled town on Slovenia’s small Adriatic Coast that blends Venetian elegance with laid-back seaside charm. The medieval city walls still stand watch over the sparkling Gulf of Trieste, and climbing them rewards you with lovely views of red rooftops spilling into the turquoise sea. Life here is relaaaaxed: mornings begin with espresso by the harbor, afternoons with swims off rocky beaches or strolls along the promenade, and evenings with plates of just-caught seafood and local Malvazija wine. The Church of St. George presides over it all from its hilltop perch, offering sweeping vistas across the coast and into Croatia and Italy on a clear day. Whether you’re wandering ancient alleys, dipping into art galleries, or chowing down on some gelato (ahem, eating gelato elegantly) as sailboats drift by, Piran a tranquil counterpoint to Slovenia’s inland castles and alpine lakes. Historic Ptuj Visiting Ptuj (pronounced like pt-ooey, the spitting sound, forreal) is like stepping into a quiet corner of Europe that time forgot. Often called Slovenia’s oldest town, Ptuj has been continuously settled since the Stone Age, and its layered past shows up in everything from Roman relics to medieval streets to baroque mansions. Over the centuries, it’s been home to Celts, Romans, Slavs, Habsburgs—you name it—and each left their mark. The Ptuj Castle, perched above the red-roofed town, offers sweeping views of the Drava River. Inside, it’s packed with fascinating exhibits, including traditional musical instruments, historical weapons, and beautiful tapestries. Down in the old town, cobbled streets lead to wine cellars, cozy cafés, and one of the oldest town halls in Slovenia. It’s an easy day trip from Maribor or even Ljubljana, but it’s worth staying a bit longer to soak in the atmosphere, especially if you time your visit with the annual Kurentovanje festival, when fur-clad, bell-ringing figures parade through town in one of Europe’s most unique (and ancient) carnival traditions. Tour Slovenia's Wine Regions Slovenia's famous heart-shaped vineyard One of my favorite topics! Slovenian wine is a hidden gem in the world of viticulture. With 2500 years of winemaking history and an array of microclimates, Slovenia punches well above its weight wine-wise (say that 10 times fast). Slovenia has three distinct wine regions: Primorska (Coastal Region) lies along the Italian border and enjoys a Mediterranean climate, making it ideal for bold reds and crisp, mineral-driven whites. It’s known for varietals like Rebula (Ribolla Gialla), Malvazija (Malvasia), and rich Merlots and Cabernets . The Vipava Valley is especially notable for its experimental orange wines (I love an orange wine!) and native grapes like Zelen and Pinela . Podravje (Drava Region) in eastern Slovenia is the country’s largest wine region, specializing in elegant, aromatic white wines such as Šipon (Furmint), Laški Rizling (Welschriesling), and Sauvignon Blanc . This region is also known for its excellent late-harvest and sweet wines , thanks to the cooler climate. Posavje (Sava Region) is located in the hills and valleys of southeastern Slovenia and is known for producing accessible, everyday wines. It’s home to Cviček , a unique low-alcohol and slightly sour red blend. The region also produces dry whites and sparkling wines, and many vineyards here continue to follow traditional winemaking methods. Can tell by the empty bottle that we loved this one... If you’re thinking about exploring Slovenia through its wines, you’re in for a treat. Most wineries are family-run, often tucked into beautiful hillsides where you’ll sip with the winemaker themselves. In the Primorska Coastal Region, Goriška Brda is often called “Slovenia’s Tuscany,” with rolling vineyards, terracotta rooftops, and spectacular views. It’s a great spot for elegant whites, orange wines, and reds like Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Don’t miss Movia (a pioneer of natural and orange wines), Klet Brda (the largest co-op with a lovely tasting terrace), or bold winemaker Edi Simčič . Just south of there, the Vipava Valley is quieter and more rugged, home to indigenous grape varieties like Zelen and Pinela. Burja Estate , Tilia Estate , and Lepa Vida are known for thoughtful, organic wines. If you head northeast, Jeruzalem and the Štajerska region offer gentle green hills and cool-climate whites like Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, plus sparkling and sweet wines. Stop by Puklavec Family Wines or Kogl Winery and be sure to see the famous heart-shaped vineyard road near Špičnik. Many wineries are by appointment only, so it’s a good idea to book tastings in advance. To relax and really enjoy the wine, consider staying overnight at a vineyard guesthouse—like Kmetija Štoka or Kmetija Stekar —or join a guided tour from Ljubljana or Maribor. Companies like Slovenia Wine Tours or Winestronaut offer full-day excursions with tastings and local snacks (yay!). Tastings usually cost around €10–20 and often include bites of cheese, bread, or cured meats. And wherever you go, you’ll get to try something distinctly Slovenian: Rebula in Brda, Cviček in the southeast, or a funky skin-contact white aged in clay amphorae. Oh my gosh, take me back! Our Essential Guide to Slovenia will answer lots of questions about the country in general, so make sure to check it out before or during your trip. Use our 7-Days in Slovenia itinerary , which can be extended if you want to stay overnight in the Julian Alps or explore more corners of the country. If you’re just passing through, check out our Flash Trip: 3 Delightful Days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled ! If you’re continuing on in Europe, here are our guides to Prague and Kraków – both favorites of ours and super kid-friendly! Ready for your Slovenian Road Trip? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- Tips for Car Rentals in Colombia
Renting a car in Colombia is straightforward – there’s just one minor inconvenience: the paperwork can take up to 35 minutes . After a flight, that can feel long, but in our experience, the rental agents are universally warm and hospitable. Seriously, they’re all so nice! So, how do you rent a car in Colombia? In this article, you'll find all the nitty gritty details about the actual car rental process, as well as answers to your other questions: Which car rental company should I choose? Should I get car insurance on my international rental? What should I know about driving in Colombia? What's it like to rent a car in different cities? We cover Bogotá, Medellín, Cartagena, and small airports. Documentation & Paperwork Each driver must be physically present with their passport and driver’s license. As U.S. license holders, we did not need an international driver’s license in Colombia, but many countries do recommend it. Check out our article on the quirks of international driver permits for more details. Once you’ve navigated the paperwork, you have two main strategies for getting the most out of your Colombian car rental: 1. Mix Driving and Flying Flights between Colombian cities are frequent and inexpensive , even at the last minute. One option is to rent a car to explore the surrounding areas of one destination, then return the car before flying to your next stop. This approach saves time on long journeys while still giving you the freedom to roam off the beaten path. 2. Opt for a One-Way Road Trip If you love a good road trip, consider a one-way rental . Rates are often affordable, and you can drop off the car at another hub. Example : We once drove from Bogotá to Villa de Leyva, then continued on Route 62 to Medellín. Check out our favorite itinerary to make this a high-value experience. Which Car Rental Company Should I Choose? Besides major international agencies (Enterprise, Budget, National, Avis, etc.), you’ll see many smaller companies with rock-bottom prices. We’ve had bad luck with some of these “cheapy” companies in the past because they: Are inconveniently located and require extra steps like hard-to-find shuttle buses. Offer lower-quality vehicles. Have bad customer service. Make it difficult to change your plans or report an issue. Final price may be higher. We’ve found it’s worth spending a little extra to book with a well-known rental agency , and we recommend booking directly on that agency’s website for maximum flexibility and customer service. He's barely moving. Everyone is flying. Look out! In Colombia, we chose National Car Rental . We made several last-minute adjustments online, got great in-person customer service, and had no complaints about the vehicles. Interestingly, National in Colombia was priced on par with other big-name rentals (unlike in the U.S., where it can be more premium). We’ve also heard good things about Localiza , a Colombian car rental agency. Whichever agency you choose, double-check their office location before arrival. Smaller agencies may be off-airport, so be aware if you’ll need a shuttle bus. Should I Get Car Insurance on My Car Rental in Colombia? There are several types of car insurance for rentals, but the two main categories are: Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) : Covers damage to your rented vehicle. Liability Coverage : Covers damage to other vehicles if you cause an accident. Other coverages (like LDW for theft or windshield coverage) exist, but in Colombia we did not experience much upselling. In other countries, you might be offered every possible add-on. Use your judgment and assess your risk comfort level – we tend to be skeptical about extras like “premium roadside assistance.” Credit Card Coverage One reason I love the Chase Sapphire Reserve card ( see all our thoughts on travel credit cards here ) is that it provides rental car insurance through Assurant. Many other credit cards (Fidelity Visa, Amex Platinum, etc.) offer similar coverage, so check with your credit card for details. Important : If you rely on credit card coverage, you must decline all insurance at the rental agency. Any insurance you purchase there may invalidate your credit card’s policy. You may have to front the cost for damages, then be reimbursed by Assurant after the claim is processed. We decided we were willing to take that risk for a lower rental cost, and (knock on wood) we’ve never needed to file a car insurance claim. Before our trip, we visited chasecardbenefits.com to request a “Letter of Coverage” about our auto insurance policy and brought it with us, just in case we needed to prove our coverage or reference our policy. What to Know About Driving in Colombia For a deeper dive into road conditions – including why driving at night is so heavily discouraged – check out our detailed driving in Colombia guide. You’ll also find tips for planning a stress-less road trip in this rugged but rewarding country. Road Conditions & Overtaking Steep, twisty routes are common. Local drivers often overtake aggressively, sometimes on blind corners, or perform the dreaded “double overtake” using the shoulder to pass one car already passing another. Choosing Your Driving Style Drive leisurely and risk longer travel times if you get stuck behind slow vehicles. Drive more aggressively , overtaking when it seems safe – but this demands greater caution and focus. Even a 200–400 km drive can wear you out faster than you’d expect on straighter highways elsewhere. It’s not uncommon for Colombians or other travelers to warn that your road trip itinerary is overly ambitious. Current Road Upgrades There’s been massive investment in recent years, so many roads have improved, but Colombia is a big country split by three branches of the Andes , so there’s still a lot of work to be done. Expect enormous potholes. Be prepared to "share" the road with trucks and numerous motorcycles. Watch out for the occasional cow crossing! Geologically unstable mountain roads mean sudden drops in pavement Mountain passes go abruptly from paved to single-car width dirt trails. Tips for Renting a Car in Different Colombian Cities Renting a Car in Bogotá To rent a car in Bogotá: From the International Arrivals hall , head to the far left. (If you’re coming from the city, enter the International Arrivals hall and turn right.) You’ll see small booths for each major car rental agency. Talk to the agent, who will take your info and call for a shuttle. The agent kindly walked me upstairs to the shuttle, which took me to an off-site parking lot where each rental agency has an office. At the rental office, I handed over my passport , license , and credit card , discussed insurance (see above), and signed a lot of paperwork. I provided my first hotel’s address for my stay in Colombia. Pico y Placa in Bogotá We also discussed the vehicle’s pico y placa (license plate restriction) . The agency didn’t have a vehicle with the “right” license plate numbers for my travel days, so I paid a small extra fee for a day pass to get out of pico y placa restrictions. Bogotá is one of the only places in Colombia where you can pay your way out of these restrictions. Finally, we inspected the car and checked the safety kit in the trunk. Every Colombian car is required to have tools, safety vests, and a small fire extinguisher. This whole process took about 40 minutes , even though there was no line. The agents were extremely friendly, and I got to practice my Spanish. If you don’t speak Spanish, a translation app will come in handy! To return the car in Bogotá, drop it off at the same rental parking lot; they’ll shuttle you back to the airport – much faster! Renting a Car in Cartagena After exiting past baggage claim, turn left to find a few outdoor car rental offices. If you don’t see your specific agency, ask another agency for directions. Some have offices in a separate parking lot. We easily found the National Car Rental booth just outside. The office was tiny, so only one person could fit inside. T stayed outside with AJ while I (E) did the paperwork, which was again voluminous but accompanied by excellent customer service. They let me know about Cartagena’s pico y placa and which days I’d need to drive. We confirmed the license plate on my rental would work for those days.Then we walked to a nearby car rental lot to pick up our car – super easy, no extra shuttle needed! To return the vehicle, we parked in roughly the same spot in the same lot and walked right into the airport. Returning a Car in Pereira (or Other Small Airports) When we rented our car in Bogotá, we did a one-way rental to Pereira to avoid backtracking on our road trip. Since we were returning the car on a Sunday , the booking process noted we might be returning after-hours. The rental office said they’d send me instructions, but I never got an email. So, a few days before returning, I called the office and explained. They confirmed my return time , which needed to be exact so someone could come in specifically to receive the car. They sent a handy video showing exactly where to drop off the car at the airport. This was incredibly helpful! On the day of return, we followed the instructions, and I went into the arrival hall to find the agent. She did a quick inspection, and we were all set. Don’t let this or any of our other driving articles discourage you from renting a vehicle. It’s a great way to see the country. Just be prepared for some of the more challenging time behind the wheel than you may have previously experienced. And check out flights! They’re really reasonable and great for letting you cover a lot of the country in a shorter time. We can’t recommend enough mixing the two. Wanna Make That Roadtrip Even More Smooth? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- Google Street View: Our Fave Road Condition Travel Trick
A very lonely, amazing person guiding one-way traffic. Don't forget to tip. This half-hour stretch of Colombia's Route 62 in Santander features room for a single vehicle at a time, swimming pool-sized potholes, and mud. Question: How can I determine road conditions and decide what kind of vehicle to rent before my trip? This trick works best for the GENERAL condition of roads along your route . Prior to our trip to Colombia, I could not get a straight answer about the two major routes dissecting the country's mid-section. Forum advice was 5-10 years old. Given the speed at which investment in new Colombian roads is advancing, everything I learned turned out to be woefully outdated. And honestly, any advice I give about roads will be the same in short order. Though, expect small stretches through rugged mountain passes to be reliably unreliable for a long time yet. This is where our travel trick utilizing Google Street View really earns its keep. Our Hero Travel Trick for Roadways: Google Street View If you're lucky enough to be checking an area where one of their camera cars has passed within the last year, provides on-the-ground imagery to take the mystery out of your driving. This is great for deciding which kind of vehicle to rent. And since different vehicle sizes mean big price differences, that's key info. In much of Europe, streets can be so tight that having a hyper-compact vehicle can be a life-saver. Whereas, driving through rural areas in South America without a lot of infrastructure, big rainy seasons, and/or unstable geology might demand a vehicle with 4WD or, at the very least, more clearance. Luckily, this entrepreneurial guy was just around the corner Plus, you never know if the road you've followed for three hours is suddenly going to end with a precarious drop-off and... In Costa Rica, that's exactly what happened. Just after dark, we were driving along a well-maintained dirt road with a speed limit of 80km/hr (50mph) and suddenly... the road disappears. SCREEEECH! Some places don't have an agreement permitting Google Street View cars to drive their interior roads. (Looking at you, Costa Rica). We were surprised that Costa Rica was seriously light on image data, while Colombia's waaaay rougher roads were very well-mapped, especially through areas that were arguably more challenging to navigate than Costa Rica. Now, you're certainly not going to use this trick to spot check an entire country. But if you know you're going someplace that's pretty isolated, information is scant, and rumors abound of the inconsistency of the roads, it's a great idea to drop in from on-high (via Google Maps) and take a closer look. Step-by-Step Guide to Checking Your Route on Google Maps To use Google Street View for what I like to call "spot-checking my route", open up the Google Maps app on your device. This is a bit easier on a laptop or desktop computer, but we'll assume you're already on the road. Once you've got Google Maps open, locate a rural route you're planning to drive. In the image here, you'll see a portion of Route 62, which cuts across Colombia's three branches of the Andes that dissect the country like a giant claw mark. There are several things I could focus on, among them: river crossings and rugged mountain terrain. You might even wish to catch a glimpse of the sort of tiny towns dotting the map along your route. In terms of terrain, let's say I'd like to spot-check the road conditions along some of the more rugged mountain passes. To focus my search, I'm going to toggle layers and select terrain. In the image, you can see the layer button highlighted. Toggled, you can now identify the darkly shaded greens that indicate rugged mountain areas. On my device, I'll zoom in on those darker green areas along my route. I will zoom in close enough to be able to tap the route itself, highlighted in blue. This drops a pin, and if you're close enough to the road in question, an image should appear in the bottom left corner, indicating Google Street View. If there's no image, Google's camera cars may not yet have mapped this area. Click on the image in the bottom left corner. This takes you into Google Street View. For the uninitiated, GSV comprises photos taken every few seconds from a 360-degree camera system mounted on top of a specifically outfitted car, whose driver has one job: drive around the country. What this means for you is the ability to literally move through connected photographs and navigate along a given route. Not only can you see the road, but you'll be able to peek in every direction with about as much clarity as you might from the interior of your rental car. Crucially, there's one more very important piece of information you'll want to determine before taking these images as gospel for route-planning: the image date. Not to be confused with the Google image copyright top-center. The route photo's date, as well as an archive of historical photos taken by GSV from this location, can be accessed at the bottom of the screen. For my purposes, an image date of March 2024 is pretty helpful. No, I can't see what mayhem the latest rainy season hath wrought. But I can get a general idea of what I'm up against. In the image to the right, I can see that at least part of the mountain pass has pretty great roads. After a bit more spot-checking, I discovered that there were only a few areas that should concern me. We drove through most recently in the rainy season, and some landslide-prone areas were clear, but had yet to receive a fresh gravel/paving treatment. As a result, they were glorified mud trails, featuring huge puddles. The road narrowed down to a single "lane", and a pair of flaggers stood on opposite ends of the single-route pass accepting tips for keeping in radio contact and letting cars pass. Ultimately, you've got to assess your appetite for risk. Sure, there's an outside chance you drive for three hours only to find your road rendered completely impassable due to a landslide. That's the nature of the trekking into the unknown. If you take the risk, you may as well plan for the unexpected. Having to turn around isn't fun, but it's just the way it goes sometimes. Some more GSVs from our drive. By no means the worst driving conditions we've experienced. But thanks to these images, we opted for an SUV rental with good clearance. About 85% of the time, we didn't need it. But the cost was ultimately worth it for the few times we needed to roll up our cuffs. Notably, in Costa Rica, (where Google Street View is super limited, to date) we rented the most useless SUV ever. Not only were the tires made of paper, the engine was gutless. After a few close calls, we were forced to modify our route. Next time we go, we're getting a car with high-clearance, mud tires, and a SNORKEL! Technically, these are roads... appetite for risk <<< analyzing >>> Wanna Make the Roadtrip Smoother Than a Smoothie? Click below to check out curated portable snack options for traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- Five Best Day Trips from Oaxaca City
Although you could spend your entire trip eating your way around Oaxaca City, there are incredible sites all within an easy day-trip of the Zócalo! Explore ancient Indigenous archeology, a really, really big tree, and learn how to cook like a Oaxacan elder. Read on for our favorite day trips from Oaxaca City, and don't forget to check out our full foodie guide , favorite restaurants , 7-day itinerary , and 3-day flash trip guide ! Monte Alban Monte Alban is one of the region’s most exciting ancient Indigenous sites – and a bit of a sleeper hit compared to its very well-known cousins like Chichén Itzá. The Zapotec city of Monte Alban was founded around 500 BCE, and was excavated and restored in the 1930s. It’s located on a gorgeous hilltop where you can take in sweeping views of the valley and admire the sheer scale of structures. WS&T Tip: The sun can be intense and there’s not much shade, so bring plenty of water, snacks, and sun protection. In fact, the site is enormous, so you may want to pack a picnic if you plan to explore the whole thing. When you arrive at Monte Alban, you’ll stand in line for a ticket and then you can climb up to the site to begin your tour. At the entrance, there’s also a souvenir shop and museum , which is small but has some important treasures found during the site’s excavation. If you’re really interested in the history of the site, you can hire a guide at the entrance. There isn’t much signage once you’re inside. How do you get to Monte Alban? Rental Car: If you have a rental car, you can drive right up to the site’s parking lot. Taxi or Rideshare: Uber is currently banned in Oaxaca, so use the rideshare app Didi or hail a local taxi for an easy and inexpensive trip to Monte Alban. They’ll drop you off at the parking lot. Again, if you have a kiddo you’ll need to deal with the car seat situation – and Monte Alban is not stroller-friendly. We haven’t tried this, but you could ask the ticket booth folks to hold onto it, possibly for a fee. Hire a Driver: Less cost efficient but more convenient, you can book a driver for a half day or a full day (and combine with another site). Leave the car seat and kid supplies in the car while you explore. Ask at your hotel, or check out Turismo El Convento de Oaxaca or Descubre Oaxaca . How do I get back to Oaxaca City from Monte Alban? Bus: If you took a taxi or Didi to get to Monte Alban, you can easily return on a public shuttle bus. You buy a paper ticket from a vendor in the parking lot, then chill until the next bus arrives and hop on. They seem to leave every hour, or every 30 mins on weekends. Walking: If you’re up for an adventure, you can take a 2-hour downhill walk through the outskirts of Oaxaca – passing through some slum areas – back into the city center. Árbol de Tule Located about 13 km east of the city, the small village of Santa Maria del Tule is famous for its absolutely enormous Montezuma cypress tree, known simple as Tule. It is incredibly large and impressive, at least 36 meters around and weighing a shocking 500 tons. It’s over 2000 years old and makes a compelling case for being the widest tree in the world. Tule is sacred to the Zapotec people, and your kids will have fun picking out the animal shapes hidden in the branches which have earned Tule its nickname: Tree of Life . It is definitely worth a visit! How Do You Get to the Árbol de Tule? Rental Car: If you have a rental car, this will be an easy (if trafficky) trip. Park on the edge of town and walk up to the tree. Taxi or Rideshare: Use the rideshare app Didi or skip the middleman and hail a taxi. This will be one of the easiest options for your day trip, you just might have to bring your stroller/car seat combo for the trip. The good news is that the town of Santa Maria del Tule is fairly stroller-friendly. Hire a Driver: Less cost efficient but more convenient, you can book a driver for a half day or a full day (and combine with another site). Leave the car seat and kid supplies in the car while you explore. Ask at your hotel, or check out Turismo El Convento de Oaxaca or Descubre Oaxaca . Bus : If you’re solo or have older kids, flag down a local bus on Niños Héroes near the intersection with Boulevard José Vasconcelos, one block east of the baseball stadium. The front of the bus will say “Tule” and the driver will be able confirm. Buses are cash-only, so keep some pesos handy. At the time of writing, the cost is around $8 pesos per ride. Rent a Bike: If you’re up for an adventure, you can rent bikes and cycle the 13 kilometers (around 8 miles) to Tule. You can get an inexpensive bike rental at Zona Bici or Bicicletas Pedro Martinez (which also offers guided bike tours). Some sites claim that it’s an easy, no-stress ride, but we found it to be somewhat challenging: first, navigating the city from the bike rental shop to the highway required full attention, then there were some stretches along the highway where you were sharing the road with traffic. For most of the trip, however, you’re on a nice wide bike path right in the middle of the highway. And the ride is straight and flat for most of the way. We found it to be a vigorous experience; doable but definitely on the harder side, depending on your cycling skill. How do you visit the Árbol de Tule? Once you arrive in Santa Maria, you can’t miss the gigantic tree in the middle of the central square. You can get pretty close for free, but if you want to enter the gate and walk around the tree, you’ll pay a small fee (about MXN 15). It’s open from 8am-8pm . What else is there to do around the Árbol de Tule? If you want to spend the day in Santa Maria, start with a stroll through the Mercado de Artesanías , where you’ll find a collection of colorful textiles, souvenirs, clothing, bags, and more. It’s a little tacky, but you never know what you might find… Next, treat your taste buds at Mercado Antojitos , a lively food hall filled with budget-friendly eats and drinks. Ready for a bit of nature? Head out to La Calera del Tule , a nearby hiking area just outside town. The trail leads to a beautiful scenic viewpoint. On your way back, take a peaceful pause at Los Cinco Sabinos , a charming garden featuring a group of Montezuma cypress trees. They might not be giants like the big guy, but they’re still a lovely and tranquil spot to relax. Wrap up your day with a mezcal experience —you can visit El Sabor de Oaxaca bar right in town for a tasting. Take a Oaxacan Cooking Class Oaxaca is a food paradise, so we were very interested in peeking behind the curtain and taking a Oaxacan cooking class. There are several great options, but w e signed up for El Sabor Zapoteco , a wonderful cooking class run by Reyna, the Indigenous Zapotec chef extraordinaire who lives in a small village just outside the city called Teotitlán del Valle. We met the shuttle bus at a designated pickup spot (easily walkable in town), then drove to Reyna’s lovely home, past arid landscapes and field after field of mezcal, for an introduction to our menu for the day: sopa de frijol , mole amarillo , fried squash blossoms, and a traditional dessert. After that, Reyna took our small group to the local farmer’s market, where we got to shop for the day’s ingredients (and pick up a few beautiful souvenirs from the people who actually made them). Back at Reyna’s extensive outdoor kitchen, we roasted chiles, fried squash blossoms, and learned how to make mole the old-fashioned way: grinding everything on a metate or grinding stone which was deeply grooved and passed down for generations. We were… not good at it, but it was fun to try! Afterwards we enjoyed the best part: feasting on our several-course meal, with a side of mezcal to wash it all down. Reyna even has a cute little souvenir shop at her house, where I snagged the embossed metal napkin rings in my picture. If you’d like to book this class, check out their site here – we don’t get a kickback, we just loved the experience! 4: Hierve el Agua Explore this incredible calcified rock formation that looks like a gushing waterfall. Afterwards, you can check out the stunning, well-preserved Indigenous burial site at Mitla, which is about a 45-minute drive from Hierve el Agua. Despite the name, which means "Boil the Water," the water isn’t hot—it’s a refreshing 72°F—but it does bubble up from underground thanks to natural spring pressure. Important Note: Check with your hotel or a tourism agent before heading to Hierve el Agua; in the past few years they’ve had issues with over-tourism, so they’ve limited how many visitors can check the place out each day. At the time of writing, that limit is 200 visitors per day. As a result, it may be easiest to see Hierve el Agua with a tour… but over here at WS&T we’re not that excited about group fun unless absolutely necessary, so consider booking a driver for the day. Admission is about MXN 50, and parking is about MXN 100. The park is open from 7am to 5pm, and we highly recommend arriving early. What Should I Bring to Hierve el Agua? Sunscreen! It is often quite hot at the site, which has very minimal shade, so plan accordingly. Water! Hierve del Agua sits at 5000 feet elevation, so you'll need to stay hydrated. Hiking shoes or good sandals Bathing suit + towel if you'd like to swim Consider water-safe shoes if you swim How far is it from Oaxaca City to Hierve el Agua? Hierve el Agua is located in the town of San Isidro Roaguía, about 70 km from Oaxaca City. It takes about 1 hour and 25 mintues-2 hours to drive there, depending on traffic and road conditions. How do you get to Hierve del Agua? Tour: A tour can be a stress-free way to visit Hierve, though you'll be beholden to the group itinerary for the day. If you book a tour, you’ll likely also stop at Mitla and one or more mezcalerias along the way. Rental Car : This would be a great day for a car rental so you can see both Hierve el Agua and Mitla stress-free. Taxi or Rideshare: Use the rideshare app Didi or hail a local taxi for an easy and inexpensive trip to Monte Alban. They’ll drop you off at the parking lot. Again, if you have a kiddo you’ll need to deal with the car seat situation – and neither site is very stroller-friendly. Hire a Driver: Less cost efficient but more convenient, you can book a driver for a half day or a full day (for both sites). Leave the car seat and kid supplies in the car while you explore. Ask at your hotel, or check out Turismo El Convento de Oaxaca or Descubre Oaxaca . What Do You Do at Hierve del Agua? The short trail to the pools is a bit steep but worth it, with sweeping views of the Sierra Madre del Sur and giant blooming agave stalks popping up here and there. Along the way, you’ll pass stalls selling snacks, cold drinks, beer, micheladas, and piña loca—a mezcal cocktail served inside a pineapple and topped with chamoy, chile, and lime. If you’d like to hike to a different view of the two petrified falls, the longer trail takes about 40 minutes each way. The hike is about 1.6 miles with a 623-foot elevation gain. It’s not too hard, and there are spots to rest along the way. It's a kid-friendly hike. You’ll get an up-close view of both the 98-foot Cascada Grande and 39-foot Cascada Chica, formed over thousands of years by mineral-rich water that left behind frozen-in-time rock formations. Afterwards, enjoy your piña loca or go for a dip! Be careful at the edges of the pools, which can be slippery. You might want to wear water-safe shoes, epsecially for kid-feet. As always, be respectful of the site, which has experienced vandalism in the past! Mitla Mitla was a sacred site to the Zapotec people before the year 1000—a place where they held important religious ceremonies and buried their elite. The name Mitla comes from the Nahuatl word Mictlán , which means “Place of the Dead.” Later on, when the Zapotecs started to lose power , the Mixtecs came in and began burying their own royalty there. Today, the site is decorated with jaw-dropping stone mosaics that are among the most intricate and well-preserved in the country. Mitla itself is a fairly uninspiring town, although we did enjoy wandering around the central square. There also happened to be a lively outdoor market in progress when we were there, which was great. It’s a half day trip, so you can combine with Herve del Agua especially if you have a car or book a driver for the day. How far is Mitla from Oaxaca City? Mitla is about 46 km or a 1-hour drive from Oaxaca City, depending on traffic. How do I get to Mitla? Rental Car : If you have a rental car, you can drive to the edge of town, then walk up to the Mitla site at the top of the hill. Taxi or Rideshare : Use Didi or a local taxi for an easy and inexpensive trip. Again, if you have a kiddo you’ll need to deal with the car seat situation – Mitla is not really stroller-friendly. Hire a Driver: Less cost efficient but more convenient, you can book a driver for a half day or a full day (for both sites). Leave the car seat and kid supplies in the car while you explore. Ask at your hotel, or check out Turismo El Convento de Oaxaca or Descubre Oaxaca . Bus : We had a more time consuming but super easy bus ride to Mitla. We went to the Oaxaca Bus Station ( located here at Central de Abasto, 68090 Oaxaca, Mexico). Look for a bus with a large “Mitla” sign in the window or ask for help locating the Mitla bus. There is no set bus schedule, but buses leave frequently, sometimes as often as every 15-20 minutes. We waited about 40 minutes for the bus. In Mitla, you can have lunch at a few different spots including Restaurante Doña Chica or Yalnadoo . If you have more time in Oaxaca, check out our 7-day guide and our 3-day Flash Trip guides for even more to do in this incredible city! Wanna Make Your Day Trips Even Better? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- 7 Days in Colombia: Bogotá & Beyond
Welcome to our 7-day dive into one of the most vibrant and biodiverse countries in the world! Whether you're chasing mountains, sipping world-class coffee, or embracing some beach time, our itineraries are designed with flexibility in mind. When Eve was in her backpacking days, her itineraries were loosely based on gut instinct and guidebook vibes – and they (almost) always worked out. But as parents, we know how important it is to have a plan. This guide blends structure with the freedom to customize, ensuring your family adventure hits all the right notes. If you're wondering whether Colombia is safe , when to go, how to rent a car, what the roads are like, or how to get around, check out our Colombia Travel Overview . Got more than 7 days for Colombia? Lucky you! Check out our 10-Day Guide or consider spending extra time on the Caribbean coast (hello, beach time – check out our guide to Cartagena and the North . For now, let’s dive into an unforgettable 7-day route through this incredible country. 7-DAY COLOMBIA ITINERARY - QUICK PEEK Days 1–3: Bogotá (2 Nights) Day 3: Zipaquirá + Villa de Leyva Days 3–6: Villa de Levya (3 Nights) Optional Day Trip to Tunja Day 6: Return to Bogotá (1 Night) Day 7: Travel Home (& start planning your next trip!) Day 1: Arrive in Bogotá Welcome to Bogotá! The first thing you’ll notice in Bogotá – besides the sheer mountain backdrop – is the altitude. Sitting at 8,661 feet (2,640 meters) between the Río Bogotá and the Cerro de Monserrate mountain ridge, this city literally takes your breath away. The Compass app on your phone is a fun way to track altitude on the go! The next thing you’ll notice? The weather. Bogotá’s high-altitude location makes for wet, chilly days. Pack layers and a waterproof jacket – and maybe adjust your expectations if you’re dreaming of tropical climes. Though metro residents tend to be slightly more businesslike than Colombians outside Bogotá, the city’s vibrant personality makes it well worth a couple days’ exploration. Most visitors fly into El Dorado International Airport, a clean and modern hub just 14 km (8.6 miles) from downtown. With only two terminals, it’s easy to navigate – even with a stroller and overtired kiddos in tow. Still, plan to take it easy on the first day to adjust to the jet lag and altitude. Getting Cash and Transportation Money : We grab some Colombian Pesos from an airport ATM (best rates) or use the currency exchange counter if we’ve brought cash. WS&T Money Tip: Use your travel credit card for points. Our rec. And an ATM card w/ fee reimbursement. (Some Argentine ATMs charged $6-10 USD, so thank you, Fidelity!) Getting To Your Hotel: Taxi : Find the yellow Imperial Taxi booth in the arrivals hall. Fare: ~$40,000 COP ($9.25 USD). WS&T Money Tip: We always confirm the price upfront and check if they accept cards. Uber : Reliable and affordable. Double-check your pickup location in the app. Pickup is a short walk from the terminal tax stands. Didi : Another ride-hailing app that works well here. Car Rental : Unless you’re heading out of Bogotá right away, skip the immediate car rental – the city center and most points of interest are very walkable. Public Transport : Bogotá’s TransMilenio bus system is pretty dope (you can’t miss the distinctive red buses), but the airport route involves multiple transfers. Not ideal after a long flight solo or with kids. If you want to try it, d ownload the TransMi app for route planning and purchase a rechargeable Tullave card at the kiosk in the airport arrival hall. Yeah, I said dope. We didn’t have a problem seat-belting our car seat into the Uber, but make sure you check that the driver has the rear seat belts accessible before loading up all your luggage. People tend to be lax about using rear seat belts in Colombia, so sometimes the driver needs to dig them out of the seat for you. If you do want to rent a car, proceed to the appropriate car rental desk. They’re incredibly helpful and will organize an easy shuttle to the rental lot. Here are our tips for renting a vehicle in Colombia. Where to Stay in Bogotá For short visits, we recommend staying in La Candelaria , Bogotá’s oldest and most picturesque neighborhood. It’s packed with colorful colonial homes and quirky vibes. Most of the city’s main attractions are also walkable from this neighborhood. Without kids, you can immerse yourself in nightlife central, Zona Rosa. Downtown itself can seem a bit seedy but is another option. Our Hotel Recommendations: Hotel Casa Deco : We loved this art deco-themed hotel with a super central location and welcoming staff. The only downside was the big staircase, but the staff helped us with our luggage and allowed us to keep our stroller and car seat behind the front desk. Breakfast included. WS&T Foodie Tip: The best “aromática”, Colombia’s signature spiced tea, is available in the lobby of Hotel Casa Deco. We're not sure why. . . The Orchids : Boutique hotel w/ cozy touches and good location, breakfast included. Airbnb : Always a great option, especially if you prefer to cook or prepare kids’ meals while on the road. Lots of great choices in La Candelaria! Day 2: Explore Bogotá WS&T General Tips for Bogotá: Acclimation : Take it slow on Day 1—hydrate and avoid strenuous activity. Stroller vs. Baby-Wearing : Bogotá’s cobblestones and hilly streets make strollers tricky. Baby-wearing is often easier. Weather : Layers are your best friend. Bring your rain jacket! For your full day in Bogotá, we recommend some key highlights: · Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) : A dazzling collection of pre-Hispanic gold artifacts—over 55,000 pieces! The whole museum focuses on pre-Hispanic uses of gold for worship, adornment, tools, and everything in between. Kids will love the shiny displays and interactive exhibits. If you walk to the museum, you’ll get to check out the slightly seedy but super lively and interesting city center along the way. · Plaza de Bolívar : The city’s grand central square, anchored by a statue of Simón Bolívar and surrounded by architectural gems. You'll want to learn more about the famous, complicated man whose name you’ll find everywhere in the region. · Catedral Primada de Colombia : A stunning colonial cathedral with rich history just off the central square. · Cementerio Central : Hop in an Uber or taxi to the north end of town, where Colombia’s main cemetery – dating from 1836 – holds an enthralling mix of tombs, monuments, and statues. Plus, it’s the perfect place to dodge impossible questions from your kids about life and death! (KIDDING). Where to Eat in Bogotá Check out our cheat sheet on Colombian cuisine for a food-obsessed overview of the country's flavors, staples, and signature dishes. Bogotá’s food scene is as diverse as its climate. La Candelaria offers some excellent options: Sharing dinner with Bolívar · La Puerta Falsa: Just a block away from the Plaza de Bolivar, find this tightly packedinstitution selling the delicious (extremely large/heavy) classic Colombian tamales along with a range of other specialties. We got ours to-go, grabbed a delicious herbal aromático (with or without rum) and enjoyed both al fresco. · Prudencia: Delicious, relatively inexpensive set-course meals you can enjoy between 12pm-5pm on Wednesdays through Sundays. Everything made from scratch. Make a reservation on their website. · Sant Just: Cozy French restaurant with great food and great prices. · If you or your kids have a sweet tooth, check out the dessert mecca called Crepes & Waffles. If you’re craving a taste of home (or dealing with picky eaters!) try La Hamurguesería . · Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao: This fruit market is off the beaten path and will require a special trip, but it is a fun place to explore with the kids in the morning and enjoy a traditional breakfast at one of the market stalls. · Restaurante Doña Elvira: In the Palermo neighborhood, this old-school institution is simple but rich with Colombian culinary history. Where Can I Eat Healthy Food in Bogotá? We know that especially when traveling with kids, sometimes your body needs a bit of recovery from traditional, rich cuisine. At WS&T, we love trying local delicacies, but we also love mixing in some vegetables from time to time! Try Quinua y Amaranto for fresh, vegetarian set lunches. Day 3: Zipaquirá to Villa de Leyva (Big Travel Day!) On the morning of Day 3, you’ll be feeling well-rested and totally adjusted to the altitude. Your kids will have slept peacefully for 12 straight hours, and you and your partner will have enjoyed a Club Colombia cerveza on the balcony and gazed into each other’s eyes in the shadow of the Cerro de Monserrate before spooning all night. Or not. Either way, it’s time to hit the road for one of Colombia’s most unique and fun sites: the Zipaquirá Salt Cathedral. The world’s only underground cathedral was carved out of an ancient salt mine active since the pre-Hispanic era. Salt (sal in Spanish) was actually the first currency in the region, hence the term for salary: “salario.” Try the 90-minute guided tour, with a few add-on options. Consider the “ruta minero” where you and the kids can pretend to be miners for 30 minutes – more fun than it sounds! You can buy tickets online in advance. Kid-Friendly Details : Baby-wearing is the way to go – strollers aren’t allowed. But tread carefully. There are some strenuous portions of the walk. But it’s nice and dark, so if you’re lucky maybe baby will nap! Getting to Zipaquirá The Salt Cathedral is about 90 minutes (55 km) from Bogotá’s city center. You’ve got options: 1. Rent a Car : Check out our article on renting a car in Bogotá (and Colombia, at large). You’ll want to choose this option if you’re planning on driving yourself for the rest of the road trip. We definitely recommend this option! 2. Hire a Driver : If you’re planning to stick with our itinerary and visit beautiful Villa de Leyva after the cathedral, book your driver for the full day. They can wait while you explore the cathedral and drive you to your next destination. If you're skipping Villa de Leyva, make sure to arrange for your driver to wait for you during your tour and return you to Bogotá – maybe with a stop for lunch. Check out Viator or Mi Elegido VIP (note: Spanish-only website) to book drivers. 3. Public Transport : TransMilenio buses and regional trains can get you there, but the process involves multiple transfers. E took the bus in her backpacking days, but perhaps not ideal with kids in tow. Lunch Stop: Zipaquirá Town Zipaquirá itself is a charming town with colorful streets and a picturesque plaza. It’s the perfect place for a relaxed lunch after your Salt Cathedral tour. Keep an eye out for local specialties like ajiaco (a hearty soup with chicken, potatoes, and corn). Days 3-6: Villa de Leyva (3 Nights) After your tour of Zipaquirá, continue north to Villa de Leyva , a stunningly preserved colonial town about 4 hours from Bogotá (or 3 hours from Zipaquirá). The journey itself is part of the charm. On our way north, we made a quick detour in the charming town of Ubaté – a perfect spot to stretch our legs and give AJ a break from the car seat. Ubaté is known for its striking Basilica del Santo Cristo de Ubaté , which towers over a handful of cozy restaurants and cafés. We decided to check out Tamales Ladino , and to our delight, it turned out to be a true family affair: the friendly hosts set a table right in their living room, and one of the women even offered to hold AJ while we devoured their massive, banana leaf-wrapped tamales. It was such a sweet moment of Colombian hospitality – and exactly the kind of unexpected gem that makes road trips memorable. Villa de Leyva Highlights : We loved our sojourn in this picturesque town where beautiful colonial architecture is on grand display. Start off in the obligatory Plaza Mayor , which is actually the biggest plaza in the country! Then check out one of the quirky local museums: Casa Museo Luis Alberto Acuña , the Museo del Carmen , the Casa de Antonio Ricaurte, or the Casa Museo de Antonio Nariño . If you’ve got dino-crazed toddlers, then Museo del Fósil . Outside of town you’ll also find the Estación Astronómica Muisca , an archeological site and solar observatory dating back to the Muisca days around 100 AD. Just a simple, unassuming weekend home... Make sure you hit up the one-of-a-kind Casa Terracota , located a very short drive just outside of town. Built by brilliantly weird architect Ocatvio Mendoza, the Gaudi-esque structure was supposed to be his personal residence… but he got sick of gawkers peeking in on him as he stepped out of the shower, so he decamped to Bogotá and turned his amazing two-story home into a museum. Where to Stay in Villa de Leyva : The town is very walkable, so be sure to stay within a comfortable distance of the Plaza Mayor. If you have a car, you can stay just outside the center for easier parking. MVP HOTEL RECOMMENDATION: · Hotel Casa Real Villa de Leyva: Feel like royalty for the price of a nice motel! This hotel had impeccable service, a great breakfast spread and simple evening restaurant, and NO JOKE the best shower we’ve ever had in our lives. OTHER GREAT HOTEL OPTIONS: · Hotel La Posada de San Antonio : A boutique option filled with eclectic art and furniture. · Hotel El Giro : Slightly pricier option a little further out of town, but with well-appointed mountainside vibes and both adult and kids’ pools. Where to Eat in Villa de Leyva : · Zarina : Delicious Mediterranean spot run by a very kind couple. A rather rare chance for a veggie-forward meal in meat-loving Colombia! The berenja was to die for. This is also our healthy pick for Villa de Leyva. · Casa San Pedro : For pasta lovers, don’t miss their tableside fettuccini alfredo mixed in a giant parmesan wheel. · Emell’s Bakery : A dessert haven perfect for post-plaza strolling. At almost any local restaurant, ask about the specialty “ajiaco:” a thick, corn-based soup with chicken and potatoes which typically comes as a set meal with a bunch of toppings to add to the soup, along with juice and dessert. DAY TRIP OPTION: TUNJA (CLICK TO EXPAND!) Villa de Leyva is a beautiful yet slow-paced spot, so if you’ve seen everything you want to see in town, consider doing a day trip to nearby Tunja, located about an hour’s drive away. You can also easily fit in Tunja on your way back to Bogotá, especially if you opt for 2 nights in Villa de Levya and an extra added night back in Bogotá. Up to you! At first glance, Tunja is a bit of a “meh” town; kind of a grubby transit byway. But it has hidden gems, including some of the country’s best-preserved colonial homes and churches! Head to the (what else?!) Plaza de Bolívar , where you’ll find a big statue of Simón himself and the towering cathedral. Opposite the cathedral is the Casa del Fundador , an interesting historical peek into Colombia’s colonial past. Around the corner you can visit the Casa de Don Juan de Vargas (beware the odd opening hours), which boasts impressive frescoes. The churches are a major highlight of Tunja, but unfortunately most only open during Mass on Sundays. If the timing works out for your trip, try to schedule a visit here on Sunday morning where you can peek into the Iglesia de Santo Domingo , the Iglesia y Convento de Santa Clara la Real , or the main cathedral . If you’re interested, you could even attend a service. If not, make sure you’re dressed appropriately and quietly take a look from the back! Afterwards, grab some empanadas for the road at Empanadas Típicas del Valle or a set meal ( comida corriente ) from Son y Sabor . Day 6: Return to Bogotá Take the drive back to Bogotá (about 3.5 hours + 20 minutes with a visit to Tunja), making sure to leave enough time to enjoy the craziness of the roads . Back in Bogotá, you may have to head right to the airport or an airport hotel. If you have one more night, take in a niche museum like the Museo Botero , Casa de Moneda , or Museo Militar . Or you can wander the streets, enjoying the aromático vendors and craftspeople in this vibrant, chilly city. If you’ve reached the end of your trip and decided to call out of work for an extra week, check out our other itineraries! Wanna Make 7 Days Go Even More Smoothly? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- How to Stay Safe While Traveling Abroad
Stop Telling Travelers: "Use Common Sense." It's Not Helping Anybody. There are few things more irksome on internet travel threads than fellow travelers advising people to “use common sense” when OP has asked advice about traveling safely. The phrase “use common sense” is thrown around so often that it ultimately sounds smug and dismissive, especially when it comes to something as nuanced as personal safety. While “common sense” may be shorthand for “be alert, be cautious, stay aware,” it neglects the realities of individual backgrounds, experiences, and biases. And it totally overlooks something that’s crucial to how we experience travel: our personal appetite for risk. Nor is risk evenly distributed. Solo female travelers, LGBTQ+ travelers, people of color, even (and especially) those with disabilities all face unique situations. Telling someone to “just use your common sense” serves only to erase these and other very real differences between explorers. Thanks /u/ mytravelempathyneedsanupgrade Moreover, shouldn't each destination warrant a more case-by-case explanation? Maybe it’s time for the phrase “use common sense” to be stricken from travel guidance altogether – it does no one any favors. What is true is that travelers need to have a personal safety toolbox , equipped at all times, and honed to enhance personal safety without compromising one’s enjoyment of adventure. Read on to learn how we actually stay safe while traveling, without sacrificing your sense of adventure. Like, say, the in-law's house during Thanksgiving? An Anecdote for Context Diego grew up in Medellín, Colombia circa 1991. Sally has never been outside her hometown of Westport, Connecticut. At first glance, we might assume Sally is the ill-equipped traveler when it comes to safety, since she’s never left her bubble. And sure, in the absence of life experience outside Westport, she might be a tad naïve about potential dangers in another city. But Diego, despite growing up in one of the most notoriously dangerous cities of the early ’90s, might have his own blind spots thanks to a major glitch in human programming. Cuzco, amid riot police & attempted self-coup Human nature is tricky. We tend to habituate, even to high-stress conditions, and become desensitized to extreme situations we deal with regularly. Diego may know how to duck a hail of bullets, but complacency can sneak up on anybody and get us in trouble. Meanwhile, Sally, though inexperienced, might be hyper-aware of everything that could go wrong. From personal experience, the more I backpacked and stayed in hostels, the more comfortable I got. Which wasn’t necessarily a good thing for staying vigilant. I’ve met plenty of people who’ve had things stolen in hostel dorms. Still, I personally chose to take the risk rather than getting a cheap hotel for the chance to meet unforgettable travelers and make lasting connections. I’d secure my valuables as best I could and weigh the cost-benefit trade-off. Taking that risk wasn’t inherently foolish, just as avoiding it isn’t inherently over-cautious. It’s down to personal preference, not a nebulous "common sense". Of course, now that I’m married with a baby in tow, I have no desire to meet anybody new ever again. (Just kidding.) But to that point, actually: Nowadays, my decision-making doesn’t just affect me, it directly impacts the people I’m traveling with. The Traveler’s Toolbox: Some Tools for Staying Safe So, let's get practical about how to actually stay safe while traveling. When I think about what helps me stay safe on the road, I like to picture a hard-won, well-stocked toolbox that I can reach into whenever I need. Some tools are more literal – like a physical printed photocopy of my passport – but many are intangible mindsets and habits I’ve picked up over time. Instead of run-of-the-mill advice like, Don't Go There At Night, Look Over Your Shoulder at the ATM, Don't Follow Shady People on Treks, here are some favorite tools with a bit more nuance. Properly applied in case-by-case travel scenarios, they really help. 1. Appetite for Risk This is the measuring tape in my toolbox. I gauge how much I’m willing to take on and how far I’m willing to go. It’s a mental barometer of sorts. Only individuals know their own risk tolerance. Why It Matters: This is crucial to know where to draw the line between I’m trying to get out of my comfort zone and I’m about to have zero control over this situation . 2. Situational Awareness & Cultural Competence This is the flashlight in my toolbox. I use this to shine a light on (and adapt to) local norms. Why it Matters #1 : On the one hand, am I naturally loud, boisterous, and high-energy? There’s a place and time for that. There’s also a time to be chill, to shut up, and take in the surroundings. It’s remarkable how “eyes open, mouth closed” has proven effective in so many situations. Why it Matters #2 : Standing out doesn’t automatically equal danger, but it calls for more vigilance and flexibility in how I’m moving through unfamiliar settings. That may sound like ‘duh’, but it’s not as intuitive as we always think. 3. Informed Decision-Making This is the compass – it guides me, but I still had to learn how to read it first. Why it Matters #1 : Before I head to any radically new place, I read up on traveler forums, safety advisories, and personal blogs. Facts plus anecdotes help me understand what’s hype versus what’s real. It’s just not for safety! The money I’ve saved over the years thanks to good research is enough to finance a trip all by itself. Why it Matters #2 : Sometimes the best decisions are spur-of-the-moment, like deciding when and how to find an exit route before a march turns violent, or picking a new bus route at the station when Plan A falls through. The more you’ve read and prepared, the easier that snap decision gets. 4. Emergency Plan Reservoir Every toolbox needs a stash of backup supplies – your “just in case” resources. Why it Matters #1 : I memorize a few emergency phrases in the local language – “I need help,” “Call the police,” "Where's your favorite taco spot?", “Where is the hospital?” Why it Matters #2 : I think through what I’d do if my phone died, or if I got separated from my travel companions, or if I lost my wallet. This “reservoir” of possibilities keeps me prepared, should anything go sideways. WS&T Travel Tip: If you're with a group/family, don't designate one person to hold all the important stuff (phone, money, etc.). If that person is separated, the others are SOL. At the End of the Trip Risk tolerance shifts over time. I think it’s smart to check out your toolbox from time to time, if not simply to reassess your evolving priorities, then to make sure you haven’t become lax in your personal safety habits. The goal here isn’t to terrify anyone into missing out on life-changing adventures – it’s to encourage informed exploration. By acknowledging that risk tolerance varies from person to person, and that “common sense” can’t possibly account for everyone’s unique backgrounds, experiences, and identities, we get to have a richer conversation about travel safety. Here's a special call-to-arms for people with a wealth of travel experience : Travel represents a bridge of mutually beneficial cultural enrichment. Beyond simply feeding our souls, travel chips away at divisions between people and fosters respect, understanding, and cooperation. Inversely, isolation begets fear, otherism, and xenophobia... (you know what comes next). If cultural exchange makes better humans, we have a responsibility to take the time to help new travelers more safely explore their world. If you’ve got some tips and tools in your own traveler’s toolbox that you’d like to share, please leave a comment. Have a healthy respect for your personal safety without letting it overshadow genuine cultural immersion. The more you understand about yourself – and the places you visit – the more you’ll realize you can navigate new environments confidently, respectfully, and frankly, smarter. And that, I believe, is a whole lot more useful than being told to just “use common sense.” Now that you've gotten our practical advice for how to travel safely, I highly recommend our article on adapting to a seriously nerve-wracking situation... Checkpoints, Police Bribes & Shakedowns. Stuck in Peru, amidst the former president's attempted self-coup. Safe Traveler Gear? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.