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  • Waze vs. Google Maps vs. Maps.me

    Let me out. I'm walking. The Best Navigation Apps for Roadtripping & Tips for Making the Most of Your Tech When you’re on the road in a foreign country – perhaps juggling a shaky international data plan and uncertain terrain – navigational apps can make or break your trip. So, who wins in the Waze vs. Google Maps vs. Maps.me competition? We like to superpower our route by using both Waze and Google Maps  in tandem, and supplementing with Maps.me for specific needs.   Why? Because all three apps have strengths and weaknesses. But if used properly, they can be combined to form a hard-to-beat team. Is it a pain in the bagel? Not once you get the system down. Plus, it could mean the difference between an impassable route or traffic jam, and smooth sailing. To keep this article concise, I won’t address every pro and con of these apps, just the ones related to your travel needs, like inconsistent cell signal or when roaming cost is a factor. Even if you’re intimately familiar with these three apps, there might be some new insights. So, read on! WS&T Travel Tip: So, unless we really need it, we try to avoid our $10/day Verizon Travel Pass for cell signal. Depending on the country, it’s not even that useful once you get into rural areas with limited reception. Instead, just before setting out, we use Waze’s best function (real-time data) to check the route we’re about to take. Scanning the route for road work, speed trap cameras, detours, accidents, etc., is so helpful. Sure, you can’t memorize all the obstacles, and yes, things change over the course of a drive, but you’ll get sense enough to be prepared. Plus, if there’s a major slowdown, Waze might just give you an idea of when you should leave or offer a revised route. But of course, the fastest route is not always the best. The Lowdown: Waze vs. Google Maps vs. Maps.me Waze: Real-Time Traffic Hero PROS User-Sourced Updates : Waze thrives on real-time information submitted by its community. Traffic jams, accidents, speed traps, road closures, and police sightings get flagged quickly. CONS No Offline Mode : You need an internet connection. If you’re traveling abroad without a reliable data plan or a local SIM, you could lose navigation the moment your signal drops. Doesn’t matter if you started the nav before leaving the cozy embrace of Wi-Fi. Battery Drain : Because it’s constantly updating in real time, Waze can be more taxing on your phone’s battery. Google Maps: The Offline Marvel PROS Offline Maps : A game-changer if you have limited data or unreliable connectivity. Download entire regions in advance via Wi-Fi, and you’ll still get turn-by-turn directions without an internet connection. Extensive Global Coverage : Google’s mapping database is enormous, covering even smaller towns and rural routes in many countries. Street View & Satellite Imagery : Handy for visualizing your destination, spotting landmarks, or checking road conditions ahead of time. Read our article about how we determine road conditions  using Street View. CONS Less Dynamic Traffic Updates : While Google Maps does feature live traffic, it’s not always as immediate or granular as Waze’s user-based reporting. Limited Community Interaction : Waze’s core advantage is real-time, crowd-sourced alerts. Google Maps depends more on aggregated data, so it can be less detailed about random incidents like speed traps or potholes. These two women are doing the Lord's work. That's a tip jar she's holding. You know what to do. Alas, the problem of being able to get information about businesses and points of interest is sorely limited without cell service. Google’s Offline Maps can take up a lot of space. That’s why they offer only bare-bones navigation.   So, we keep a third option available. Maps.me: Offline, But with Business Listings Maps.me allows us to download offline maps. The file sizes are certainly bigger because this app stores more information about businesses and points of interest, often including hours of operation. So, why not use Maps.me for all your navigation? Ah, yes: PROS Complete Offline Functionality : You can download entire countries or regions without a cell signal. Business & POI Details : Maps.me often includes interesting points of interest and smaller businesses that may not appear on Google Maps. OpenStreetMap Base : Because it’s built on OpenStreetMap data, community corrections and updates can be very fast. CONS Large File Sizes : High-detail offline maps can be huge, so download via Wi-Fi  before your trip. Navigation Isn’t Always Perfect : The routing engine can be quirky, leading to questionable detours or slower routes in some areas. We’ve had complete screw-ups in several instances inside of cities and towns. It’s actually better with walking directions in offline mode than it is for driving to some destinations. Perhaps on longer straightaway routes, you’d be in great shape. But its granular navigation has caused us to make circles several miles from our ultimate destination.   Other Apps Worth Noting for Roadtrip Navigation OsmAnd : Another OpenStreetMap-based app offering robust offline features, detailed hiking/biking trails, and customizable map layers. Great for adventure travelers but can have a steeper learning curve. Sygic : Premium offline maps, real-time traffic (with a data plan), and advanced lane guidance. Generally well-suited for road trips, but some features require in-app purchases. Apple Maps : Recently added offline functionality (on iOS 17+), and it integrates seamlessly with Apple devices. Still catching up in some regions and lacks the crowd-sourced updates you’d get with Waze. Which App Is Right for You? If You Have a Solid Data Plan Waze : Fantastic for dense urban areas, real-time updates, and active communities. Google Maps (online) : Great for exploring restaurants, user reviews, and thorough place details. If You’re Data-Conscious or Offline Often Google Maps (offline) : Download your maps in advance for reliable voice-guided navigation. Maps.me / OsmAnd : Perfect when you need to know about a business or point of interest in offline mode . WS&T Travel Tips: Download Before Departure : Regardless of which app you choose, download necessary maps on Wi-Fi. Data can be painfully slow or expensive on the road. Carry a Power Bank : Waze, Google Maps, and GPS usage in general will drain your battery faster than usual, especially if you have your screen on for navigation. Check Local Community : Some countries have robust Waze communities; others rely on local apps or prefer Google Maps. Do a quick forum search before your trip.   How to Download Offline Maps in Google Maps Roadtrip navigation apps have under-the-hood features that really make them useful in situations where signal is spotty. The process for downloading offline maps in Maps.me is really straightforward, so we won’t be going into that here. But if you’re trying to do this in Google Maps for the first time, it’s not as easy to figure out. So, here’s a quick tute for your phone! Open Google Maps : Make sure you’re connected to Wi-Fi and logged into your Google account. Access the Menu : Tap your profile icon  (or initial) in the top-right corner. Select “Offline maps” : A new screen will appear with options for managing your downloaded areas. Choose “Select Your Own Map” : You’ll see a rectangular selection area. Zoom in or out and move the frame so it covers the region you plan to visit. The app will display the approximate file size  of the download. Tap “Download” : The map data will begin downloading. Download speeds vary based on your connection and the size of the area. Optional: Set Updates & Preferences : From the “Offline maps” screen, tap the gear icon  (Settings) to choose if you want updates to occur automatically over Wi-Fi or if you want the app to auto-delete maps after a certain period. WS&T Tip: Make sure you choose your download regions carefully. Navigation will work unless you route to a location outside the grid you’ve selected for download and saving. If it’s even slightly outside the grid, the rest of the navigation can fail. Got other navigation apps you swear by?  Let us know—our goal is to keep travelers informed about the best ways to stay on course no matter where the road leads. Trying to Stay Dry on That Journey?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • How Can I Maximize My Time in a City? Our Favorite WS&T Travel Hack.

    How can I maximize time in a city when I'm traveling? We've all been there. You’re in a brand new city. You only have a few days to see and eat everything on your list. But you have no idea where anything is, or how to be efficient… so you lose valuable time backtracking, or miss out on a great lunch spot because you didn’t realize it was right around the corner from that museum. We can’t remember exactly which one of us came up with this idea, but it was a, wait for it... game-changer . WS&T has a great solution for you! We started using this tool when we visited Oaxaca City, and E got very stressed  about how were going to eat every single thing in the city in a week. Make a Google Saved Places List! This is our favorite, quick and easy way to maximize time in a city or country. While researching a city’s food and attractions, we’ll look up each and every place we aspire to visit on Google Maps, then save it to a list we make specific to our upcoming trip. That way, when we’re exploring a city, our saved pins will populate all over the map and we’ll be able to see what’s close by at any given time. If you have a ton to eat and see, you can make different lists for food and attractions, or even different lists for breakfast/lunch and dinner. For foodies, source food spots from your favorite food blogs like Eater, The Infatuation, Food & Wine  – or your favorite recommender, WS&T. You absolutely can't go wrong. You can also change the pins for each list to any emoji you want! My Costa Rica map is now covered in tiny shooting stars. We’ve even started using them at home and in domestic cities so we can really easily find great places to eat nearby. Step-by-Step Guide to Making a Google Saved Places List To start your own Google List, open your Google Maps app and look up the first place you want to save. One of E's fave taco spots in Los Angeles. And yes, she should probably charge her phone. Slide the oblong bubbles that start with “Directions” over to the left until you find “Save.”  When you click on Save, a screen will appear saying “Save to list” and you’ll click “+New list.” In this next page, you can name your list (“Colombia Eats!”) and put in a description. You can also click the little smiley face to change the pin icon.  If you want to share with you partner, click below to make the list “Shared.” Once you’ve created your list, you can add anything and everything to it using the same steps. Don't forget to start by searching the destination (eatery, museum etc) in the main Google Maps search bar, then save it to your list. You can't add things from within the list. To find your list, head to the main screen of your Google Maps app and click on the little label that says “You” on the bottom. There you’ll find all of your saved lists. You can also create a new list, but you won't be able to add to it from within the list (follow steps above for adding destinations). From here, you can also click the three dots on the right to “share list” with your partner or change the settings on your lists. As you make your way around the city, you can easily see what spots are nearby. Zoom in to navigate. Zoom out to admire. It really makes logistics and planning for the day a breeze. Now, to magically expand a stomach for the day... the search continues. When you get really into it, your maps will look like this! While you're here, check out our 7-day guide to Oaxaca and our favorite Oaxacan restaurants for all these picks! What About Those Other Tiny Trekkers?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • Who Was Simón Bolívar? Latin America’s Liberator, Dreamer—and Tragic Hero

    As we traveled through Colombia, we noticed that almost every town had a “Plaza Bolívar” in its center, where tree-lined paths radiated from a bronze statue of the revolutionary leader. Portrait of Bolívar by José Gil de Castro. Dope epaulettes. Given the ubiquity and apparent veneration of the man, we were surprised to learn that Bolívar died in disgrace at his friend’s house on the Caribbean Coast, his dreams of a united “Gran Colombia” dashed. We wanted to know: who was this man whose face is etched on money, statues in every plaza you stroll through, and the collective imagination of a whole region? We decided to do some research. Simón Bolívar didn’t just lead armies; he tried to reshape an entire continent. Latin America is still wrestling with the questions he raised over 200 years ago. Let’s dive into the saga of Simón Bolívar—the legend, the liberator, and, ultimately, the lonely visionary. Who Was Simón Bolívar? Born With a Silver Spoon—Fire in His Soul Born in 1783 into one of the wealthiest families in colonial Venezuela, Simón Bolívar could easily have led a life of luxury. But tragedy struck twice: by the time Bolívar turned 9, both of his parents had died. He was sent to live with relatives, and as a teenager traveled to Europe to continue his education. This trip changed everything. Down with the monarchy à la Française During his time in Europe, Bolívar was deeply influenced by the French Revolution’s ideals of liberty, equality, and fraternity, which challenged had recently – and violently – overturned the entrenched monarchy. He saw Napoleon’s invasion of Spain as evidence that empires could fall and that the iron-fisted Spanish crown was vulnerable. Exposure to Enlightenment ideas further convinced Bolívar that Latin America could achieve its own independence. He saw Latin America as one united people, destined to throw off their oppressors. Bolívar made a solemn vow in Rome: he would not rest until Latin America was free from Spanish rule. Bolívar’s World Under the Yoke of Spain Around 1800, when Simón Bolívar first traveled to Europe, Latin America remained under the heavy grip of Spanish colonial rule, though signs of unrest were growing. Since the late 15th century, when Spain first claimed the “New World” for the crown, the region had suffered centuries of exploitation and brutality. Indigenous populations were decimated through violence, forced labor systems like the encomienda , and diseases brought by Europeans. Charles IV poses on stolen gold Spain extracted vast natural wealth from Latin America—especially silver and gold—totaling hundreds of billions of dollars in today’s money. This stolen wealth enriched the empire while leaving local communities impoverished. The social hierarchy was rigid and racially stratified, with peninsulares (Spaniards born in Spain) at the top, Creoles below them, and Indigenous and African-descended peoples at the bottom, often subjected to forced labor, slavery, and systemic violence. These injustices bred deep resentment among Creoles, who were denied political power despite their economic influence, and among the wider population that bore the brunt of colonial oppression. As Enlightenment ideals and revolutionary movements spread across the Atlantic, Latin Americans increasingly began to envision a future free from Spanish domination. The Sword of the South When Bolívar returned to Venezuela from exile in 1811, his dream of liberating Latin America seemed well-nigh impossible. The Spanish Crown wasn’t going to give up its colonies without a tremendous fight, and Latin America was a chaotic patchwork of royalist strongholds, rebellious juntas, and war-weary civilians. But Bolívar was singularly, obsessively focused on his mission. The man and his horse, immortalized What followed was a grueling, decade-long military campaign against the Spanish. Bolívar didn’t lead from the rear—he was on horseback, crossing rivers, sleeping rough in the Andes, and rallying troops who were often poorly equipped, unpaid, and wildly outnumbered. His army was a mix of freed slaves, Indigenous fighters, Afro-Venezuelans, European adventurers, and former Spanish soldiers. Enthusiastic, but also volatile and hard to unify. One of the boldest military moves of his career came in 1819: the legendary crossing of the Andes to liberate New Granada (modern-day Colombia). Bolívar and his army faced snow-covered mountain passes, high altitude sickness, and near-starvation—yet Bolívar pulled it off with tactical genius and pure force of will. You have to imagine that the Spanish were asking themselves, who was this Simón Bolívar, an orphaned man who came out of nowhere to lead an army against an unbeatable empire? After the decisive Battle of Boyacá, Bogotá fell, and Bolívar’s legend exploded across the continent. By the early 1820s, Bolívar had helped liberate: • Venezuela , his homeland and the launchpad for his revolution. • Colombia , after stunning victories against Spanish forces. • Ecuador , with a little help from another independence icon, Antonio José de Sucre. • Panama , then part of the Viceroyalty of New Granada. • Peru , which he and Sucre freed after bloody campaigns and political wrangling. • Bolivia , which became an independent republic in 1825—named in his honor, no less. Bolívar even drafted its first constitution. Each victory wasn’t just a military triumph—it was a seismic political event. People began to call Bolívar “ El Libertador ”—The Liberator. And yet, the battle for unity had only just begun. One Continent, One Dream: Gran Colombia "Gran Colombia" in 1840 Bolívar wasn’t just dreaming of individually liberated countries. He envisioned a united Latin America: a powerful federation to resist foreign domination and internal chaos. He called it Gran Colombia , stretching from modern-day Colombia to northern Peru. It was bold, beautiful—and a logistical nightmare. Regional rivalries, elite power struggles, and differing visions fractured the union. From Liberator to Dictator Bolívar became President of Gran Colombia in 1819, after the liberation of New Granada (Colombia), while at the same time holding overlapping leadership roles in Peru and later Bolivia (where he briefly served as President). By the mid-1820s, Bolívar was essentially a head of state across multiple republics, directly or indirectly—a unifying figure, but also a centralizing one, which sparked tensions. By the late 1820s, Bolívar had reached the peak of his power—but also the brink of collapse. After years of war, the grand experiment of Gran Colombia was starting to unravel. Local leaders wanted autonomy, elites distrusted Bolívar’s centralizing vision, and tensions between federalists and centralists turned volatile. On top of that, economic hardship, regional rivalries, and old resentments bubbled over. Then came 1828. Bolívar stepped down from the presidency in hopes of ushering in a more democratic system. He called for a constitutional convention in Ocaña, but it quickly fell into chaos. Federalists pushed for decentralization; Bolívar’s supporters wanted to preserve a strong central government. When negotiations broke down, Bolívar saw no way forward but to seize control to preserve the fragile union. In August 1828, he declared himself dictator of Gran Colombia through a decree—justified, in his eyes, as a temporary measure to save the republic from anarchy. But the move shocked many, even those who once revered him. The backlash was swift. His inner circle thinned. Political opponents condemned the power grab. And just two months later, in September 1828, an assassination attempt nearly killed him. He narrowly escaped death thanks to the quick thinking of his lover, Manuela Sáenz, who helped him flee through a window—earning her the nickname “the liberator of the Liberator.” From that point on, Bolívar’s image was tarnished. People saw him as a new incarnation of the very tyranny he claimed to abhor. By 1830, exhausted, disillusioned, and sick, Bolívar resigned the presidency and left public life. His dream of a united Latin America lay in pieces, and the republics he helped create moved on without him. A Lonely End We visited the room where Bolívar died at the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino Sick with tuberculosis and broken in spirit, Bolívar died in exile at the age of 47 in Santa Marta, Colombia. His final words? “If nature opposes us, we will fight against her and make her obey.” From Disgrace to Immortality: Bolívar’s Image Reborn Though Simón Bolívar died in 1830 disillusioned and disgraced, his image was gradually reborn as Latin America searched for unifying symbols and foundational myths. In the years that followed, governments and historians reframed him not as a failed autocrat, but as a visionary whose dream of independence and unity had simply been too ambitious for his time. His military triumphs overshadowed the political turmoil of his final years, and monuments, cities, and schools began to bear his name. By the 20th century, Bolívar had become a symbol claimed across the political spectrum—from nationalist movements to socialist revolutions. His legacy was invoked by everyone from presidents to poets, and today, he stands as a larger-than-life figure: not just a liberator of nations, but a lasting emblem of Latin American identity and independence. Why Bolívar Still Matters Today Sharing a meal with Bolívar in Bogotá Simón Bolívar’s legacy isn’t just bronze statues and city names. His influence pulses through Latin American politics, culture, and identity to this day. His vision of a united Latin America still inspires regional integration efforts like Mercosur and CELAC—but achieving lasting unity remains elusive. Leaders like Venezuela’s Hugo Chávez wrapped their policies in Bolívar’s name, calling their agendas the Bolivarian Revolution. Others use his image to rally nationalism or critique imperialism. Bolívar’s fight for liberty remains iconic—but so does his slide into authoritarianism. His life invites reflection on what happens when the human propensity to grab power and egalitarian ideals collide. The Final Word Simón Bolívar was a liberator, a visionary, and—like all great historical figures—a deeply complex person. He rose to almost mythic status only to be cast aside by the very people he fought for. And yet, his legacy lives on: not just in statues and speeches, but in the ongoing struggle for identity, justice, and unity across Latin America. If you're in Colombia or planning a trip there, you're in the right place! If you're wondering whether Colombia is safe , when to go, how to rent a car, what the roads are like, or how to get around, check out our Colombia Travel Overview . Here's our 10-day ultimate trip guide , or you can focus on one or two destinations, like Bogotá  or the Zona Cafetera . Consider spending extra time on the Caribbean coast (hello, beach time)! Check out our flash trip guide to Cartagena  or our road trip along the Caribbean Coast . On A History Tour?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials

  • Packing Checklist for Baby/Toddler

    What should I pack for my baby? Packing for a trip with a baby feels a little like moving to another country – but don’t worry, here’s a battle-tested checklist you can adapt to meet your needs. This may feel like a lot, but this list comes to you directly from people who are carry-on loyalists. We typically get travel sizes wherever possible. If we can avoid checking a bag, you can too! Join our mailing list and we’ll send you a handy dandy printable version! Need an interactive mobile-friendly packing checklist for your phone? We've got you covered. Plus, every item on the packing list below comes to you directly from our vetted travel product picks. We've waded through thousands of products and curated three choices: Our Pick, a Frugal Pick, and a Luxe Pick. Everything from travel cribs, seat extenders, adventure wear, keepsakes, travel changing gear, and all-weather travel attire -- we've got it. Check it out here. Let's Take Only the Essentials for a Clutter-Free Baby Packing Checklist! The Admin Zone Baby’s Passport Copy of Birth Certificate Transport MVPs Baby Carrier or Wrap Stroller Car Seat Clothing: Pack for Every Spit-Up Scenario Onesies and all-in-one outfits (enough for half your trip, plus extras) Socks or booties Sweater or fleece for colder weather Sun hat for warmer weather Pajamas (2-3 pairs) Swaddle or sleep sack (2) Water diaper or swimsuit (if applicable) Pro tip: Bring a top change for yourself  on the flight. Trust me on this one. Diaper Duty Diapers (pack for several days; buy more on arrival) Wipes Fold-up changing pad Diaper rash cream “Satellite Diaper Bag” for quick changes Disposable “doggy” diaper bags for odor control Feeding Supplies Breastfeeding : Nursing cover or scarf Optional: Travel pump, parts, and bottles (if needed) Formula Feeding : Formula dispenser or pre-portioned bottles Thermos/cooler, if needed Portable sterilizer or dish soap Microwave sterilizer bag Portable mini-UV sterilizer Solids : Pouches/purees Lots of snacks Bib Silicone baby set: spoon, plate, cup Face wipes Portable booster seat (if needed) Comfort: Pacifiers Pacifier holder Favorite stuffed animal Blanket (warm) Lightweight blanket for sun Portable stroller fan for heat   Sleep Solutions: Travel crib or Pack ‘n Play (if needed) Mattress sheet Portable white noise machine Baby’s favorite blanket or stuffed animal Baby Monitor (if needed) Health and Hygiene Baby soap/shampoo Sponge or washcloth Baby Towel (if necessary) Child-safe sunscreen (6+ months old) Thermometer Nail clippers or baby nail file Infant Tylenol (just in case) Snot sucker (the real one is essential) Small first aid kit Vitamin D (if prescribed) Other Prescriptions LifeVac (if desired) Mylicon (or related gas treatment) Infant Tylenol Mini First Aid Kit Insect Repellent Mosquito net (for stroller + bed) Entertainment (a.k.a. Distraction Arsenal) A few favorite toys A couple of new toys for novelty Suction spinners, Velcro, or painter’s tape A couple of small books Travel-Specific Extras Portable booster seat for restaurants Inflatable toddler bed (if your baby is older) AirTags or luggage trackers for gate-checked items WS&T Top Packing Tip:  While you’re packing, make sure everything has a special spot, whether that’s a certain pocket or a certain way you stick it in your bag. It will be SO helpful both to quickly repack before check-out time and to find things on the go. The hardest part is getting your partner to stick with the system… initial research indicates possible effectiveness using Oreo bribery. Will report back with long-term results.    Do I need to travel with my baby’s birth certificate? Most airlines say they “may” check your baby’s birth certificate. We have never actually had anyone look at it, but we always have a copy of her birth certificate with our travel documents – just in case. This is especially important if you’re traveling alone with your child. So, you've got the baby packing checklist to get the little ones organized. Be sure to check out our logistical guides for making your travel adventures less-stress and more magical! Got the List but Still Need the Gear? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • Touring the Caribbean Coast: Cartagena to Santa Marta

    The Craziest Road Trip in the Country? Here's a Serious Contender. If you begin your Colombian journey in Bogotá, traveling to the Caribbean Coast and Cartagena can feel like be transported into a completely different world. Much of Colombia is framed by three sweeping branches of the Andean Mountains, where rolling countryside is dotted with sprawling ranches and tiny farms. To say nothing of the towering volcanoes and foggy mountain passes. Life feels quieter, the vibe more laid back. Even Bogotá, with its brisk metropolitan pace feels more like the working-class cities with which most of us are familiar. But as you make your way to the north, the vibe shifts entirely. The heat and humidity wrap around you, and the Afro-Caribbean culture paints the streets with music, vibrant colors, and an irresistible energy. Ready to dive into Colombia’s tropical side? Check out our WS&T Flash Trip: 3 Days in Cartagena  guide first. If you can’t get enough of that sea air, coconut fish stew, and edge-of-the-continent excitement, read on for some of our recommended stops along Colombia’s Caribbean Coast! IN THIS ARTICLE YOU'LL FIND... When to Visit Road Trip Routes Top Destinations on the Caribbean Coast Beach Options Minca Tips Practicals for the Caribbean Coast (Cartagena to Santa Marta) Weather : Tropical and humid. Pack sunscreen (kids 6 mos and up), water, and lightweight clothing. Driving : Roads can be wild, so stay cautious and follow local traffic habits. Safety : Stick to main routes and avoid driving after dark. Kids : Many locations aren’t stroller-friendly, but locals are very accommodating to families. It's completely second nature in this culture. When to Visit the Caribbean Coast Like most of Colombia, the Caribbean Coast goes through a rainy season. We found that even during rainy season, thunderstorms tend to occur once a day (like a big storm in the afternoon) and didn’t put much of a damper on our trip – perfect for a family siesta time! How to Visit the Caribbean Coast As always, we love a good road trip at WS&T, and the freedom of a rental car is unbeatable, especially on a stretch of Caribbean coast from Cartagena to Santa Marta. Renting a car offers freedom of movement and an easy place to feed your baby, as well as a one-of-a-kind view of the country you drive through. Road Trip Options Cartagena to Santa Marta : Take Route 90A to Barranquilla and then Route 90 to Santa Marta. This 4.5-hour journey will restock your supply of wild driving stories (more on that later).   One-Way Drive : Fly into Santa Marta, rent a car, and drive west to Cartagena. This avoids repeating the same drive. WS&T Tip: Rental companies should warn you how seriously this part of the country takes its speed limits. Locals say the same thing. Speed cameras are every 10-15km. Pay attention to the truckers who drive the route day in and day out. Sudden braking isn’t random. Why Is This Road Trip the Craziest in Colombia? The Cartagena-Santa Marta route is not for the faint of heart. Speed Traps Galore : Some cameras are real; others are either decoys or non-functioning early models.   Truck Shenanigans : Local truck drivers speed, brake hard at cameras, and even double-pass (yes, they’ll overtake each other using the shoulder). Stay alert and do not play follow-the-leader .    Time-Honored Police Bribery: Unless you’re better at blending in than us in a rental car, odds are 50/50 you’ll be pulled over for "speeding" and shaken down for a few dollars. Read our story about this, and get tips for staying cool and negotiating your way through your standard traffic stop in Colombia. Unforgettable Sights : Thousands of Great Egrets in the mangroves. Towns where time seems to have stood still. Stretches of roadway with water on both sides. Beautiful geography and pockets of intense poverty. Special mention goes to the roadside performers. We discovered some novel ways of earning a living! In one town, the roadway was filled with groups of young men dancing in wacky drag (think wigs, coconut bras, polyester dresses) who would literally block your car from continuing until you paid them. We were so entertained that we paid one group, but when we saw that about 5 more groups lay ahead, we followed the truckers’ lead and began slaloming around them. You Haven't Talked Me Out of This Road Trip. Okay, let's get into it! Top Destinations on Colombia's Caribbean Coast Barranquilla Barranquilla might not charm at first glance, but its Carnival in March is legendary. Most of the year, it’s a very hot, staid city without a great deal to attract visitors – though there are some great food stops, which makes the city a decent stopping point on your drive.   Quick Stops : Paseo Bolivar’s bustling market stalls Iglesia de San Nicolás de Tolentino Museo Romántico (quirky and open Thurs-Sun, 1 PM-6 PM) WS&T Tip:  The city center area attractions (museums and food stalls) are in a densely trafficked area. Parking is very hit-and-miss, and driving gets thoroughly congested to the point that you can easily get stuck behind trucks loading and unloading. We advise finding parking outside this district and walking. Where to Eat in Barranquilla : Barranquilla offers a mouth-watering mix of Indigenous, Caribbean, Middle Eastern (especially Lebanese), and Spanish influences in its cuisine. Arabe Gourmet : Our healthy pick. Lebanese cuisine! Narcobollo : Don’t miss the bollo costeño buns Cucayo : A colorful spot for local fare Manuel Restaurante : Upscale dining with Colombian-European fusion Check out our cheat sheet on Colombian cuisine  for a food-obsessed overview of the country's flavors, staples, and signature dishes. Santa Marta Continuing across the coast, you’ll next hit Colombia’s oldest city, Santa Marta. It’s a charming port city with a cobblestoned old town. We felt like it was on the upswing and could become a major destination. In any case, it’s a great base for exploring the surrounding attractions, like Minca and the Parque Nacional Tayrona.   Navigating the city is a bit confusing, even by GPS. Port traffic has a huge impact on layout, so you might feel like you’re making a strange loop through portions of your route. Where to Stay in Santa Marta : If you stay in or near the Centro Histórico, Santa Marta is quite walkable. Parking is abundant. Beautiful colonial era buildings are sandwiched by modern high rises and hotels. Casa Carolina : A boutique hotel with a pool and on-site dining Alko Hotel Cotona : Modern, with breakfast included Airbnb options are plentiful, especially in the Centro Histórico Where to Eat in Santa Marta : Lulo : Great breakfast spot. Don’t miss the “ranchera” arepa Ouzo : Pricier Greek and Caribbean fusion with excellent pizza Restaurante Lamart : A Seafood stew to die for La Canoa Café Cultural : Massive paninis and sumptuous sea bass What to Do in Santa Marta : Wander the lively Centro Histórico  for a collision of street vendors, ruins of colonial-era mansions, and pounding music Catedral de Santa Marta Museo del Oro Tairona  offers a small but vibrant collection of gold and other indigenous artifacts, housed in the beautifully converted historic Customs House. About 6 km outside of Santa Marta, you'll find a unique attraction: Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino , Simon Bolívar’s final home The bedroom where Simon Bolívar died. This place was remarkably interesting. The rambling hacienda was home to Spanish doctor Pedro Alejandrino, who offered sanctuary to Simon Bolívar in 1830. Bolivar – now the hero of the people whose name adorns every plaza from Cartagena to Cali – was then sick, disillusioned, and hated by the very people he sought to unite (and rule over, hence the about-face). Bolívar ended up dying in this hacienda, which is now essentially frozen in time.  The large grounds house the hacienda outbuildings – which are being reclaimed by the jungle – and the better-preserved main house. The grounds are dotted with astonishing giant green and orange iguanas – make sure to say hi. In the back of the property, you’ll also find a very large art museum dedicated to modern South American visual artists, along with a towering stone memorial. We really enjoyed road tripping to the audio book Magdalena  by Wade Davis . If you want to learn more about the fascinating life of Simon Bolívar, check out our article on his life and legacy .  If you want a truly deep dive, check out Bolívar  by Marie Arana for more about this fascinatingly complex man. Beach Options If you really want a beach fix, check out the city’s favorite beach resort of El Rodadero . It’s filled with local families and vendors and not exactly relaxing, but it is a great way to get some sand between your toes and feel like a local. Playa Blanca  is much more relaxing – and beautiful. It’s also quite popular, so arrive early and grab yourself a cabana and a papaya juice. Parque Nacional Tayrona 45-minutes outside of Santa Marta lies the beautiful coastal wilderness of the Parque Nacional Tayrona.  It’s famous for its beautiful beaches and protected marine paradise. You can visit several beaches and/or hike within the park. You tend to access the park via the land entrance at El Zaíno OR by boat, usually from Taganga. Tips for Visiting : Arrive early: Visitor numbers are capped at 6,900 daily. Bring cash: Entry fees are COP 68,500 (high season) or COP 57,500 (low season). Check closure dates: The park typically closes for a month in January or February. Vaccinate: Proof of a yellow fever vaccine may be required. E had a small reaction to her Yellow Fever vaccine, while T didn’t. These vaccines are surprisingly expensive. To learn more, check out our article on Travel Immunizations . WS&T Tip: Want an easier option? Many hotels in Santa Marta, like Casa Carolina, organize boat trips to the park. Ciudad Perdida Another major excursion in this part of Colombia is the 5-day trek to the Ciudad Perdida, or Lost City. We weren’t ready for this with baby yet, but we know some adventuresome families who have done this guided trip with kiddos! The Caribbean Coast’s Mountainous Gem: Minca Just 45-minutes south of the stifling coastal climate lies mountainy Minca, an oasis nestled alongside a small, lively river. With tons of birds and backpacker-friendly eateries, the little town boasts nearby coffee farms, swimming holes and waterfalls, and a pleasant respite from the heat. Note: all of these destinations can be accessed by motorcycle taxi (available in the center of town) but if you have kids, you likely won’t want to choose this option since they don’t provide helmets. Top Five Things to do in Minca AJ makes another friend at the Lazy Cat 1. Enjoy a Great Meal The Lazy Cat:  A Minca institution with a tranquil terrace and genuinely good food. This was one of the many restaurants where our server actually asked to hold AJ while we ate – and managed to get her to stop being fussy in a heartbeat! Duni:  Another great spot for a delicious, healthy meal. La Miga:  An excellent French bakery with delicious pastries and breads. 2. Visit Pozo Azul Overview:  One of Minca’s lovely waterfalls, featuring a gorgeous natural pool surrounded by thick forest. Getting There: Hike:  An easy 2-mile (3.25 km) walk from Minca. Drive:  A bumpy road leads to a designated parking area, followed by a 15-minute walk to the falls. What to Do: Swim in the shallower lower basin (kid-friendly!) or cross the river and climb a rocky path for about 10 minutes to reach the deeper upper basin. Continue another 15 minutes on the same path to find a more hidden pool. This one doesn’t have its own waterfall, but it’s usually far less crowded. 3. Las Cascadas de Marinka (Marinka Waterfalls) Overview:  A more adventurous waterfall experience a few kilometers north of Minca. Hike Details: It’s about 2.5 miles (4 km) from the center of Minca, starting just east of the bridge. Walk down Carrera 5a (passing Minca’s white church) until you reach the unpaved Cerro Kennedy Oriente road. Follow this for roughly 3.5 km. At the fork with the big Marinka sign, head left and climb uphill briefly—you’re there! Facilities & Fees: Admission is COP 10,000 per person, which includes access to bathrooms/locker rooms and hammocks. There’s a lower pool and an upper pool to explore, plus an on-site restaurant. Can get crowded in peak season, so arrive early! 4. Hacienda La Victoria Overview:  A picturesque coffee farm just outside Minca. Getting There: Hike for about 2 hours or drive. Depending on the season, you might need to park before reaching the finca and walk the last stretch of rough road. If it’s extremely muddy, you can book a 4x4 in town. What to Expect: English-language coffee tours (COP 25,000) last about an hour and cover the entire coffee-making process. Relax afterward with a coffee and snack at the on-site Victoria café. 5. Soak in the Local Atmosphere Craft Shops & Souvenirs:  Minca’s little town center has a handful of craft shops where you can pick up souvenirs. Relax at Your Jungle Hostel:  Sometimes the best part is simply hanging out at your hostel, enjoying the views and the laid-back vibe. Where to Stay in Minca Accommodations in Minca tend to be fairly rustic, popular among backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts. Also note that roads outside the main town can be quite rough—practically off-roading. We drove a mini-SUV (shoutout Renault Logan!) and managed fine on the muddy roads by taking it slow. Locals do it in small sedans, so it’s definitely doable, but be prepared. You can also visit Minca on a day trip from Santa Marta. But if you’d like to stay overnight, here are a few options: Chunuu Hostal y Glamping Minca The photos make it look pretty crazy. A fun, quirky hostel with multi-bed rooms. In the off-season, it’s pretty quiet. That’s when we went. But in high season, this seems like an ideal place to connect with travelers and swap stories. Rooms are spread over a terraced hillside, just over a beautiful clear-water creek. It’s a twisty, bumpy ride from Minca’s town center, so keep your map open and look out for the small Chunuu signs. Rio Elemento Ecolodge Simple and friendly, closer to the town center. Has a pool—perfect for a hot day! Masaya Casas Viejas A stunning property offering tours and activities directly on-site. Has a pool and modern-cozy rooms. About 30 minutes from Minca by car and might be inaccessible by standard vehicle depending on the season. Contact them for road conditions. You may need to park in Minca and take a 4x4. WHERE TO NEXT? We hope you’ve enjoyed your trip down the weird and wonderful Caribbean Coast! Looking for more Colombian adventures? Check out our guides to Bogotá , Medellín , and beyond! Beating the Heat in the Tropics?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • Visit Minca: Colombia's Mountainous Gem

    AJ makes a friend at the Lazy Cat The Caribbean Coast’s Quirky Getaway: Minca Just 45-minutes south of the stifling coastal climate lies mountainy Minca, an oasis nestled alongside a small, lively river. With tons of birds and backpacker-friendly eateries, the little town boasts nearby coffee farms, swimming holes and waterfalls, and a pleasant respite from the heat. Note: all of these destinations can be accessed by motorcycle taxi (available in the center of town) but if you have kids, you likely won’t want to choose this option since they don’t provide helmets. Top Five Things For Your Visit to Minca, Colombia 1. Enjoy a Great Meal The Lazy Cat:  A Minca institution with a tranquil terrace and genuinely good food. This was one of the many restaurants where our server actually asked to hold AJ while we ate – and managed to get her to stop being fussy in a heartbeat! Duni:  Another great spot for a delicious, healthy meal. La Miga:  An excellent French bakery with delicious pastries and breads. 2. Visit Pozo Azul Overview:  One of Minca’s lovely waterfalls, featuring a gorgeous natural pool surrounded by thick forest. Getting There: Hike:  An easy 2-mile (3.25 km) walk from Minca. Drive:  A bumpy road leads to a designated parking area, followed by a 15-minute walk to the falls. What to Do: Swim in the shallower lower basin (kid-friendly!) or cross the river and climb a rocky path for about 10 minutes to reach the deeper upper basin. Continue another 15 minutes on the same path to find a more hidden pool. This one doesn’t have its own waterfall, but it’s usually far less crowded. 3. Las Cascadas de Marinka (Marinka Waterfalls) Overview:  A more adventurous waterfall experience a few kilometers north of Minca. Hike Details: It’s about 2.5 miles (4 km) from the center of Minca, starting just east of the bridge. Walk down Carrera 5a (passing Minca’s white church) until you reach the unpaved Cerro Kennedy Oriente road. Follow this for roughly 3.5 km. At the fork with the big Marinka sign, head left and climb uphill briefly—you’re there! Facilities & Fees: Admission is COP 10,000 per person, which includes access to bathrooms/locker rooms and hammocks. There’s a lower pool and an upper pool to explore, plus an on-site restaurant. Can get crowded in peak season, so arrive early! 4. Hacienda La Victoria Overview:  A picturesque coffee farm just outside Minca. Getting There: Hike for about 2 hours or drive. Depending on the season, you might need to park before reaching the finca and walk the last stretch of rough road. If it’s extremely muddy, you can book a 4x4 in town. What to Expect: English-language coffee tours (COP 25,000) last about an hour and cover the entire coffee-making process. Relax afterward with a coffee and snack at the on-site Victoria café. 5. Soak in the Local Atmosphere Craft Shops & Souvenirs:  Minca’s little town center has a handful of craft shops where you can pick up souvenirs. Relax at Your Jungle Hostel:  Sometimes the best part is simply hanging out at your hostel, enjoying the views and the laid-back vibe. Where to Stay in Minca Sure, you could make this a day trip. But to truly take in the vibe and make the most of your visit to Minca, Colombia we recommend holing up for a night. Accommodations in Minca tend to be fairly rustic, popular among backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts. Also note that roads outside the main town can be quite rough—practically off-roading. We drove a mini-SUV (shoutout Renault Logan!) and managed fine on the muddy roads by taking it slow. Locals do it in small sedans, so it’s definitely doable, but be prepared. You can also visit Minca on a day trip from Santa Marta. But if you’d like to stay overnight, here are a few options: Chunuu Hostal y Glamping Minca The photos make it look pretty crazy. A fun, quirky hostel with multi-bed rooms. In the off-season, it’s pretty quiet. That’s when we went. But in high season, this seems like an ideal place to connect with travelers and swap stories. Rooms are spread over a terraced hillside, just over a beautiful clear-water creek. It’s a twisty, bumpy ride from Minca’s town center, so keep your map open and look out for the small Chunuu signs. Rio Elemento Ecolodge Simple and friendly, closer to the town center. Has a pool—perfect for a hot day! Masaya Casas Viejas A stunning property offering tours and activities directly on-site. Has a pool and modern-cozy rooms. About 30 minutes from Minca by car and might be inaccessible by standard vehicle depending on the season. Contact them for road conditions. You may need to park in Minca and take a 4x4. WHERE TO NEXT? Learn more about the weird and wonderful Caribbean Coast , or spend three great days in Cartagena ! Looking for more Colombian adventures? Check out our guides to   Bogotá , Medellín , and beyond! Beating the Heat with a Mountain Retreat?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • The Best Places to Eat in Oaxaca City

    LET'S EAT! This is one of our favorite topics because Oaxacan food is just so good. Make sure you eat at every possible opportunity to maximize how many dishes you can try! Quick Guide to Oaxacan Flavors Want a quick snapshot of what makes Oaxacan food unforgettable? Here’s your go-to cheat sheet: Mole  – Rich, complex sauces made with chiles, nuts, and sometimes chocolate. Oaxaca boasts an amazing variety (way more than the classic 7 moles you’ll hear about!). Tlayudas  – Oaxaca’s answer to pizza: a giant, crispy tortilla piled with beans, cheese, and meats. Memelas  – Thick, chewy corn cakes topped with lard, beans, and cheese—simple, yet incredibly satisfying. Tetelas  – Triangular masa pockets stuffed with beans and cheese, then grilled to perfection. Chapulines  – Crunchy, spiced grasshoppers that add an extra pop of flavor and texture. Try them! Tasajo & Cecina  – Thin cuts of air-dried beef and marinated pork, grilled for smoky goodness. Barbacoa  – Slow-roasted meat (often goat or lamb) cooked underground for maximum tenderness. Caldo de Res  – A hearty beef soup with chiles and fresh vegetables. Tejate  – A frothy, ancient cacao and maize drink, known as “the drink of the gods.” Mezcal  – The smoky, complex spirit of Oaxaca, made from roasted agave and sipped slowly to savor every note. If you're wondering what on earth all of these dishes are, or you want to know more (so much more!) head over to our deep dive on Oaxacan cuisine to learn about all the incredible things you’re about to taste. And if you're wondering how on earth you're going to eat all of this with a baby or toddler in tow, read this ! IN THIS ARTICLE YOU'LL FIND... Best Breakfasts and Cafés Must-See Mercados Best Street Food Best Lunch and Dinner Best Bars Best Places to Eat in Oaxaca: Breakfasts and Cafés So, let's say you're down to your final day and you'd like to go out with a bang. What are the absolute best breakfast spots in Oaxaca? (Notice I couldn't pick one). LA ATOLERIA MASEA: Atol is a traditional Mesoamerican beverage made from corn masa, water, and spices, often sweetened with sugar or piloncillo. Grab a pastry from next door and sample a variety of flavors from the bubbling terracotta pots at cozy La Atoleria.  LAS CHIMOLERAS: Super creative takes on chilaquiles , with great veg options. EL TENDAJON: Pancakes. Need we say more? Check out the lunch/dinner section to see this delicious restaurant again! ANCESTRAL COCINA TRADICIONAL: Ancestral serves up local favorites you won’t find just anywhere—like tetelas , delicious triangle-shaped tortilla pockets stuffed with black beans, quesillo, and your choice of meat or veggies. Tucked away in Xochimilco, Ancestral feels like a little oasis. CHEPICHE CAFÉ: Try Mexican breakfast staples or American classics at this yummy spot. A.M. SIEMPRE CAFÉ: This cozy, creative spot serves up poached eggs in chapulín sauce, goat cheese omelets, homemade avocado toast, or bagels served six ways. So good. PAN:AM OAXACA: Pan:Am has two locations—one near Santo Domingo Church in the city center and a larger one in Reforma to the northeast. Their breakfast and lunch menu puts a creative twist on Mexican classics, like huevos divorciados  made with nopales . Sandwiches also highlight traditional flavors, like house-roasted pork leg in adobo on sourdough, alongside options like a hummus and veggie sandwich (with an optional bacon add-on for a fun twist). Each meal comes with a choice of potatoes or a house salad. CAFÉ BRÚJULA: There are several locations of this excellent coffee spot which boasts dope sugar cookies, great smoothies, and many pastries. BOULENC: You’ll feel very sophisticated in this delicious bakery/café. Great coffee, yummy pastries, and delicious sandwiches and salads. So many bread things! You’ll love it. RUPESTRE PAN Y CAFÉ: This spot has one of Xochimilco’s coziest patios, complete with a massive, shady ciruela tree. Order a coffee and dig into their daily hotcakes or a classic like salsa de huevos with tostadas for dipping—or go all in with a plate of chilaquiles! Must-See Mercados MERCADO ORGANICO LA COSECHA: The street is where the action is , making food markets like this some of the best places to eat in Oaxaca. Perfect spot for a laid-back, lively breakfast. With around ten food stalls to choose from, you can mix and match dishes or go full tapas-style with friends. Expect all the Oaxacan breakfast favorites—chilaquiles, tamales, memelas, and, of course, rich, traditional hot chocolate. BENITO JUÁREZ MARKET: This is one of the best spots in the city to find tejate , a favorite drink of Oaxacans which is made from dried mamey seeds. It’s slightly sweet and foamy with a melony taste; it’s a must-try. Each tejate  maker in the market is working from a generations’-old recipe, so sample a few!Another great stop in Benito Juárez Market is Casilda’s. The family’s aguas frescas  stand has been a Mercado Benito Juárez staple for over a century, serving classic horchata and refreshing chilacayota juice made from seasonal squash. Their horchata comes with melon chunks and pecans, with other tasty versions featuring guava, chia, or peach. The best flavors sell out fast, so be sure to stop by before noon! The famous "pasillo de humo" MERCADO 20 DE NOVIEMBRE: In the “ pasillo de humo ” (Smoke Alley) of the 20 de Noviembre market, you’ll find butchers alongside big, fragrant grills. You choose your meat selection and then the stall owners prepare it for you to order. Enjoy your carne asada  or chorizo  with a variety of salsas, guacamole, and roasted veggies. Sprinkle some chapulines  on top for extra crunch! Fun fact: the 20th of November marks the anniversary of the start of the Mexican Revolution in 1910. Best Street Food You’d be hard-pressed to find a bad  meal in Oaxaca, especially in the various markets and outdoor stalls that pepper the city. Wander around sampling a taco here, a memela  there, and you might just find that hidden gem. Here were some of the best (our favorites) street food spots in Oaxaca: Love at first bite MERCADO DE LA MERCED: This was our first stop when we arrived in Oaxaca ready to eat. We loved the mole tamales at Lety’s Tamales and the big traditional meals at Fonda Florecita . MEMELAS DOÑA VALE: In the heart of Oaxaca’s Abastos Market, Memelas Doña Vale is a bright blue stand serving some of the city’s most famous memelas. Doña Vale’s handmade corn tortillas, with their signature pinched edges, hold a variety of toppings, but the real stars are her two incredible salsas—one smoky and dark with chile morita, the other a bold mix of red tomato and green chile. Grab a few memelas and add grilled tasajo, eggs, or pork ribs for the full experience. MEMELES SAN AGUSTIN: This was another incredible spot for memeles. E could have eaten her weight in these little delights – similar to arepas  and piled with beans, cheese, meat, or whatever you choose. TACOS ROY: Everything we tried here was delicious, but they specialize in tacos al vapor . TACOS DE COMAL PLAZA DEL CARMEN: This is an institution! The hours are unpredictable, but if you manage to hit this spot while it’s open, you won’t be disappointed. Try the empanadas de amarillo  and tacos de chile relleno , all cooked on the traditional Oaxacan clay comal. CHEFINITA: Chefinita, named after its founder Josefina, is famous for its rich pozole , served alongside crispy tostadas with guacamole. The menu also features tasty pork tacos and tostadas, plus a legendary (extra spicy) salsa kept in a purple container. Open from dusk until early morning, it’s the perfect late-night stop after a mezcal-filled night. TACOS DE CARMEN: Arrive early to indulge in a tlayuda, taco, quesadilla, memela, or anything else corn-and-meat-based. They also have some nice veggie options here, like mushroom quesadillas or zucchini flower tacos.  TORTAS LA HORMIGA: Right on the corner of Jardin Conzatti, you’ll find these loaded tortas with any fillings you can imagine, including breakfast versions. We love the pickled veggies on top too. Picnic in the park! EL LECHONITO DE ORO: Stand in line for a suckling pig torta (ask for crunchy chicharrón on top!) add some green salsa and enjoy! Then go take a nap. CANGREBURGUER: If you want a not-so-healthy but wild and delish street meal, try the hamburguesa  here. Somehow the burger comes with cheese, a hot dog (!), ham, pineapple, L&T, and jalapeño peppers. ¡Buena suerte! Where to Go for Lunch or Dinner We have reordered our Best List for Lunch & Dinner no less than ten times. Every time we try to set it in stone, a savory memory comes bubbling to the surface and completely upsets the candied apple cart. Thank God for digital ink. So, here they are: the definitive best (our favorites) lunch and dinner joints in Oaxaca. LEVADURA DE OLLA: We came for dinner and loved it so much, we returned for lunch. Everything is a gorgeous blend of traditional, heritage dishes with innovative flair. We loved the tamales and shrimp guava mole, but we could have ordered anything on the menu and been so happy. TLAYUDAS DOÑA FLAVIA: There are great tlayudas  to be had all over town, but here you can enjoy a colorful atmosphere while munching on an extra-large “Oaxacan calzone.” Be brave and try the chapulines  option! Mole is Life! RESTAURANTE CORONITA: This is the lobby restaurant for the Hotel Coronita, whose faded beauty feels nostalgic. Beware the odd hours – they close early so we ended up coming for lunch. The star of the menu here is the “seven mole tasting,” an absolute treat which brings you around Oaxaca via seven of its most distinctive moles. From the spicy sweetness of the fruit-forward moles to the rich, dark chocolaty goodness of the mole negro , this will be a true experience. Come very hungry! EL TENDAJON: Enjoy a classy dinner at this simple yet sophisticated spot. In typical Oaxaca City fashion, the chef gives a modern spin to timeless dishes. Try the octopus carnitas tacos and a michelada ! TERRAZA ISTMO: This adorable spot is the rooftop restaurant of the Hotel Casa Abuela Maria. Here, you can enjoy traditional Oaxacan dishes with cute décor and a great view. We loved the granachas , molotes de plátano , and sopa de guías , all specialties of the Isthmus region of Oaxaca. The cocktails are delicious too! TACO SIRENO: For a more casual, hip meal, try the fresh seafood at Taco Sireno. We loved the oysters (paired with a michelada , of course), aguachile de camarón , scallop tostada, and the very decadent house specialty: shrimp grilled cheese. CRIOLLO: It’s worth a trip outside the city center to this modern “food lab” from two of Oaxaca’s most badass chefs. Criollo is a cozy Oaxacan restaurant in a beautiful colonial mansion with a big courtyard. The six-course menu changes daily but always features classic Oaxacan flavors. Dishes like tamales, tostadas, moles, and stuffed chiles are made with a fresh, modern touch and served with great Mexican wine, mezcal, and craft beer. NIEVES LA OAXAQUEÑA: This is a true classic, and a favorite among Oaxacans who often celebrate birthdays, graduations, or family events here. You eat classic dishes around a big central courtyard, where we were lucky enough to see a traditional dance performance during dinner. One of the traditional dances involved a young man dancing around a woman as she elaborately laid an egg... Favorite Bars in Oaxaca City I don't know about you, but vibe and ambiance make everything taste better. There's no easy way to pick favorite bars and nightspots in Oaxaca. Something new is always popping up, and the classics stick with you like aged rum poured over freshly muddled fruits. Alas, we've homed in on our current favorites. What are the best (our favorites) bars and nightspots in Oaxaca? Let's shake 'em out... SELVA: Selva  means jungle, and stepping into this cocktail bar above Los Danzantes restaurant feels like entering another world. The vibe is lush and immersive, with a menu inspired by local Oaxacan ingredients traditionally used for healing. Expect bold aromas, rich flavors, and plenty of mezcal-forward cocktails. MEZCALERIA IN SITU: Ulises Torrentera’s mezcal library is the spot to taste and learn about Oaxaca’s signature spirit. With over 180 mezcals, you might even catch Ulises himself pouring and sharing his expertise. This tiny gem on bustling Morelos Street is just a short walk from downtown hotels—grab a tasting, a bottle, or just sip a glass à la carte! Rang in Christmas at the Floreria! FLORERIA MACARENA: This spot is a true hidden gem – a flower shop by day and a tiny, vibey cocktail bar by night. We loved our carefully crafted cocktails and Shazamed like every song they played! MEZCALOTECA: Mezcaloteca is like a mezcal library, offering curated tastings led by passionate experts. They’ll walk you through some rare and classic mezcals, giving you a deeper appreciation for Mexico’s beloved spirit. Definitely book ahead and consider the prix fixe tasting to sample a flight of different mezcals. Great way to either kick off or finish up your evening! You can't miss this teal façade! SABINA SABE: A favorite among locals and visitors alike, Sabina Sabe is more than just a mezcal bar—it’s a full experience. This stylish yet laid-back spot offers an impressive selection of mezcals, from small-batch rarities to well-loved classics. Their cocktail game is just as strong, with creative mezcal-based drinks that highlight local ingredients. Their food menu is a delight too! QUIOTE MESCALERIA:  Just off walkable Calle José López Álvarez, you’ll find Quiote (up on the second floor). This is another hidden gem for mezcal lovers where the owners have curated an impressive collection of high-quality, small-batch mezcals to savor. We got personalized recs at El Hijuelo EL HIJUELO:  A tiny mezcaleria in the heart of Centro, El Hijuelo keeps things intimate with just a handful of seats, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in expertise. The team here knows their mezcal inside and out, pouring some truly exceptional selections. If you're looking for a low-key spot with top-notch pours, this is it. SOBRIO BY MEZCAL SPEAKEASY: Also in Centro, Sobrio brings a bit more energy to the mezcal scene. It’s a mezcaleria-meets-bar with a lively atmosphere, often featuring live music. If you’re in the mood for great drinks with a little more buzz, this is the spot. ARCHIVO MAGUEY AT LIQUEN: For a late-night mezcal experience, head to Archivo Maguey on the first floor of Liquen. Their pour menu is organized by flavor profiles—think lactic, fruity, sour, and more—featuring selections from across Oaxaca and the Mixteca region.  Time to Enjoy Oaxaca City! Check out our 7-day guide to an incredible week in Oaxaca, as well as our list of best day trips from the city. Let us know where you eat! Wanna Eat with Ease?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials

  • A Food Lover's Guide to Oaxacan Cuisine

    Oaxaca: A Food Lover’s Paradise Oaxaca is a Gastro-Wonder of the World, rivaling India and Thailand for our favorite food destinations, so we came hungry . E made an elaborate plan to have at least five meals at different restaurants or stalls per day, maximizing our ability to sample everything from delectable street tacos to tejate to high-end mole tastings. To make sure you don’t miss any of our culinary picks, use our favorite travel hack ! We’re food nerds, so we’re going to take you on a deep dive into the culinary treasures you’ll find when you explore Oaxaca. If you’re too hungry to read all this, skip ahead to our restaurant picks ! And don't forget to check out our 7-day guide to the city , and our 3-day Flash Trip guide ! The Heart of Oaxacan Cuisine: A Food Lover's Guide Oaxaca is home to more than half of Mexico’s indigenous language speakers. The state is dominated by the Zapotecs, but each different group and community contributes to a cuisine rich in tradition, flavor, and history. From smoky moles  to crispy tlayudas  to that burning sip of mezcal , Oaxaca is an adventure waiting to be savored.  The state’s unique microclimates yield an incredible variety of chiles, herbs, and corn, forming the foundation of its dishes. Oaxaca is famous for chocolate, mole , and mezcal , but you’ll find even more deliciousness the more you explore. Read on to dive into the flavors of: Corn and Masa Creations The Power of Oaxacan Chiles All Things Mole Meat and Fish Stews and Soups Salsas and Snacks Sweets and Drinks Mezcal Corn & Masa Creations Love at first bite Corn is king in Oaxaca, and its influence is everywhere: Tlayudas  – Giant, crispy tortillas topped with beans, cheese, and meats. Memelas  – Thick corn cakes slathered with asiento (pork fat) and topped with cheese. Tetelas  – Triangular masa pockets filled with beans and cheese. Totopos  – Crunchy Zapotec tortillas baked in clay ovens. Empanadas de Amarillo  – Corn turnovers stuffed with mole amarillo and shredded chicken. Tamales Oaxaqueños  – Wrapped in banana leaves, these tamales are filled with rich mole and tender meat. The Power of Oaxacan Chiles If there’s one ingredient that defines Oaxacan cuisine, it’s chiles. Oaxaca boasts an impressive variety of chiles, each bringing a unique depth of flavor to its dishes. Some are smoky, some fruity, and others pack a serious punch. Pasilla Oaxaqueño  – The king of smokiness! This dried and smoked chile is a must-have for many salsas and moles, lending a deep, earthy heat. Chilhuacle  – The secret weapon of mole! This rare chile comes in three colors (red, yellow, and black) and is essential for creating the region’s most beloved sauces. Costeño  – A bright and fiery chile that adds a kick to soups and stews. Guajillo  – A staple in many Oaxacan kitchens, its mild heat and slightly sweet flavor make it perfect for marinades and adobos. Tusta  – A rare chile found in the Mixteca region, bringing an intense smokiness to traditional dishes. Oaxacan cooks know how to coax every bit of flavor from these chiles, whether they’re toasting them on a comal, blending them into complex sauces, or stuffing them with cheese and meats. We love spicy food with deep flavors - not just spicy for spicy's sake! Mole Mole Mole Mole (aka E’s favorite thing to eat!) The delicious 7 mole tasting at the Restaurant Coronita Dubbed “the land of seven moles,” Oaxaca is famous for these complex, chile-based sauces. The full mole experience should be required eating for food lovers and Oaxaca de Juárez is its Mecca. There are way  more than seven to try! Each mole is a reflection of regional ingredients and culinary artistry, and there are huge variations across the state. E could seriously spend the rest of her days eating various moles  all over Oaxaca. If T & AJ lose her, that’s where they’ll look first. Mole Negro  – Deep, rich, and chocolatey. Mole Coloradito  – A touch sweeter with hints of tomato and spice. Mole Amarillo  – A bright, turmeric-tinted delight. Mole Verde  – Herbaceous and fresh, bursting with green chiles and herbs. Manchamanteles  – Fruity and slightly spicy, featuring pineapple and plantains. Mole Chichilo  – Smoky with a beefy depth. Mole Rojo  – A bold, balanced blend of chiles and spices. Unique Proteins & Resourceful Cooking Oaxaca is known for its creative use of ingredients, from meats to insects (trust us, they’re actually delish!): Tasajo  – Air-dried beef, often grilled. Cecina  – Marinated, thin-cut pork, sometimes coated in chile paste. Chorizo Oaxaqueño  – Spicy, vinegary sausage packed with flavor. Chapulines  – Crunchy, seasoned grasshoppers, a beloved snack. Dried Shrimp  – A staple ingredient used year-round in various dishes. Barbacoa  – Slow-cooked, pit-roasted meat, typically goat or lamb, seasoned with aromatic herbs and chiles. Chiles Rellenos  – Large chiles stuffed with cheese, meat, or seafood, then battered and fried. Stews, Soups, & Everyday Eats While moles steal the spotlight, Oaxacans also love comforting stews and hearty soups: Caldo de Res  – Beef soup with vegetables and chiles. Chileajo  – Slow-cooked meat infused with garlic and chiles. Segueza  – A pre-Hispanic stew made with toasted corn and rabbit. Pipians  – Nutty, seed-based sauces often paired with vegetables or beans. Estofado  – A fragrant, spice-laden stew typically served at celebrations. Salsas & Snacks E: "Wait, I need to take a pic!" T: "Oops..." No Oaxacan meal is complete without salsas and antojitos (street snacks): Salsas  – Made with everything from smoky pasilla chiles to ground insects. Also known as what makes Mexican cuisine one of the most flavorful and complex in the world. Pambazos  – Sandwiches stuffed with chorizo and potatoes. Garnachas  – Small masa bites topped with shredded meat and salsa. Molotes  – Fried masa dumplings filled with potatoes and chorizo. Sweets & Drinks Oaxaca satisfies sweet cravings with local desserts and beverages steeped in tradition: Nieve de Limón  – Refreshing lime sorbet. Agua de Chilacayote  – A sweet pumpkin drink with cinnamon and piloncillo. Tejate  – A pre-Hispanic cacao and maize drink, known as “the drink of the gods.” Atol – A traditional Mesoamerican beverage made from corn masa, water, and spices, often sweetened with sugar or piloncillo. Thick, warm, and comforting, it’s a staple in many Latin American households, especially during cooler months or festive occasions. Variations of atol can include flavors like vanilla, cinnamon, chocolate (as in champurrado), and even fruits like pineapple or plantains. This beloved drink dates back to pre-Columbian times, when it was an essential source of nourishment for indigenous communities. Mezcal: Oaxaca’s Liquid Treasure No trip to Oaxaca is complete without a sip (at least!) of mezcal. E is not a huge fan of mezcal back in the States – a little too smoky for her taste. But in Oaxaca, there is just so much variety and so much craftsmanship that she easily found mezcals she loved. This smoky, complex spirit is deeply woven into Oaxacan culture, from everyday gatherings to sacred celebrations. Unlike tequila, which is made exclusively from blue agave, mezcal can be crafted from a variety of agave species, each lending its own distinct flavor profile. The process of making mezcal is as much an art as it is a tradition. Agave hearts, or piñas, are slow-roasted in underground pits, giving mezcal its signature smoky taste. After roasting, the softened agave is crushed, fermented, and distilled in small batches, often using copper or clay stills. The beauty of mezcal lies in its variety. From the bold, earthy notes of  Tobalá  to the floral, citrusy brightness of  Espadín , there’s a mezcal for every palate. Some of the rarest mezcals come from wild agave species which take decades to mature. Traditionally, mezcal is sipped slowly, not shot back, and often enjoyed with slices of orange and a dusting of sal de gusano (worm salt – yum!). Whether you prefer it neat or in a cocktail, mezcal is a must-try when experiencing Oaxaca’s culinary landscape. Experience Oaxaca, One Bite at a Time Oh my gosh, enough talking! We hope you've found this food lovers guide to Oaxaca useful. But seriously, let’s eat! Check out our guide to the best spots to chow down in Oaxaca City , then dive into our 7-day itinerary to make the most out of the city! What About Those Other Tiny Trekkers?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • Looking for the Ultimate Foodie Guide to Colombia Cuisine?

    How a Pair of Foodies Ate Their Way Through Colombia While Colombia  isn’t quite as well-known for its cuisine as other Latin American countries like Peru  or (my personal MVP) Mexico , there is plenty of variety and deliciousness to keep you happy throughout your trip! Colombian food tends to be hearty, deceptively simple, and comforting—often served in family-style, shareable portions. Even at a roadside restaurant, you might feel like you wandered into someone’s living room. Sometimes you actually do wander into someone’s living room, like the delicious tamale experience we had at Tamales Ladino . The owner literally set up a table in their front room and held AJ while we ate. It was awesome! From no-frills, roadside sancocho  or ajiaco  soups to banana-leaf-wrapped tamales and thin-fried meats paired with mouthwatering plantains, Colombian cuisine has something for everyone. And if you’re into one-of-a-kind fried snacks, look for pandebono  (yucca dough cheese bread), aborrajados  (batter-fried sweet plantains stuffed with cheese), and of course arepas —hands down one of the best things to eat at 6 AM. Head north to the Caribbean Coast to experience tropical flavors like coconut, seafood, and tons of fresh fruit. Regardless of where you go, portion sizes are generous. Colombian food is all about deep, earthy flavors  and hearty ingredients—grilled meats, slow-cooked stews, and carbs galore! It’s rarely spicy, but you can always add a dash of ají criollo  (a mild, tangy sauce of onions, tomatoes, cilantro, and local ají peppers) if you crave some heat. Breakfast – E’s Favorite Meal T knows that his day can go completely off the rails if E doesn’t get breakfast soon after waking up. In Colombia, if you’re starting your day right, nothing beats a bandeja paisa  platter—piled high with chorizo, eggs, black pudding, red beans, plantains, avocado, arepas, and rice. Sometimes it includes grilled beef or even more black pudding. It’s always spiced to perfection, deliciously greasy, and you might need a nap afterward…but it’s totally worth it! Arepas, Empanadas, and More No Colombian meal is complete without some starchy goodness . Amasijos  are traditional breads made without yeast—a blend of European baking techniques and native flatbreads like the arepa. Depending on the type, amasijos can be soft and puffy or firm and flat, and are often fried, grilled, or pan-seared. More, please Arepas  are the country’s beloved corn cake—grilled, fried, or baked, served plain or stuffed with cheese, eggs, or meats. You’ll find countless varieties across Colombia, from the slightly sweet arepas boyacenses  to the cheesy, pancake-like arepas de choclo . Other must-try bites include: Almojábanas  – Light, spongy cheese bread that pairs perfectly with hot chocolate. Empanadas  – Crispy, golden pockets stuffed with beef, chicken, potatoes, or cheese. Pandebonos  – Chewy, slightly sweet cheese rolls made with cassava flour. E loves these! She once devoured some right on the street, then hopped back in line for more. WS&T Foodie Tip: Always eat your amasijos warm! You’ll see bakery stands everywhere offering fresh batches throughout the day. Cheese, Please! Colombians put cheese everywhere : baked into breads, stuffed into arepas, and even floating in hot chocolate—yes, really! Chocolate santafereño  is a rich, frothy cocoa served with slices of mild white cheese for dunking. Don’t knock it till you try it. (E was a yes, T had to pass.) Soups To Travel For Colombians take their soups seriously. In Bogotá’s cool mountain climate, a steaming bowl of ajiaco  is the perfect comfort food: a hearty chicken soup with three types of potatoes, corn, and the aromatic herb guasca , topped with cream, capers, and avocado. Another classic is sancocho , a rich stew loaded with meat, plantains, yuca, and corn—slow-cooked to perfection. Fruit Like You’ve Never Seen Before Thanks to its tropical climate, Colombia overflows with fresh fruits —many of which you won’t find anywhere else. Juicy, juicy mangoes Check out local markets for colorful varieties like: Lulo  – Tangy, citrusy flavor. Guanábana  – Sweet and creamy, a bit like banana crossed with pineapple. Feijoa  – Pineapple-guava goodness. Try salpicón , a refreshing fruit cocktail with pineapple, watermelon, papaya, and banana, often topped with ice cream or (yes, again) grated cheese! Tamales and Other Leaf-Wrapped Foods Expect to see a lot  of tamales  and envueltos  wrapped in palm leaves, plantain leaves, or corn husks. These can be filled with meat or fish and a starchy mix of corn masa, cassava, or rice. You’ll even find sweets like bocadillos  and alfandoque  (sticky molasses candy) wrapped up snugly. Because who doesn’t like their meal (or dessert) served all cozy? Grilled Meats & Weekend Feasts Weekends in Colombia are for asado —grilled meats with arepas, fried plantains, corn on the cob, and crispy cassava on the side. Families flock to countryside restaurants called piqueteaderos  for chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), and sizzling cuts of beef or pork. If you’re up for an epic foodie experience, try a day trip from Bogotá to a local favorite like Andrés Carne de Res , where you’ll find a lively combo of feasting, music, and dancing. Street Snacks & Quick Bites When you’re on the go, Colombia’s street-food  culture never disappoints. Don’t be too wary—popular street stalls often have higher turnover than many sit-down places, so they’re usually a safe bet. Let the locals lead the way. We start our kid off slowly to give them time to adjust, then dig in! Keep an eye out for: Mazorca  – Grilled corn on the cob, slathered in butter and salt. Papas rellenas  – Deep-fried mashed potato balls stuffed with meat and rice. Obleas  – Thin wafer cookies spread with arequipe (Colombian caramel), often topped with jam, coconut, or chocolate. You'll find arequipe all over the place -- in candies, syrups, latte flavors... it's delicious! Drinks to Try Beyond coffee, Colombians have their own cherished beverages: Aguardiente  – An anise-flavored liquor, often sipped straight or mixed into a warm canelazo  (a spiced, cinnamon-infused drink). Refajo  – A blend of beer and sweet soda, a party favorite. Aguas aromáticas  – Herbal teas found on nearly every menu. Tomate de árbol  juice – A tangy, slightly sweet fruit juice. Trust us: aromáticas  are so good—don’t skip them! Colombian Cuisine Is Having a Moment Exciting changes are sweeping Colombia’s food scene, especially in Bogotá , Medellín , Cali , and Barranquilla . A new generation of chefs is embracing local ingredients  and honoring traditional cooking techniques while adding creative twists. Rather than relying on global trends, they’re exploring the country’s immense biodiversity—showcasing native tubers, tropical fruits, and wild herbs. The result? A fresh take on Colombian classics that feels both rooted in tradition and delightfully modern. For a long time, many Colombians viewed their homegrown dishes as too humble for “fine dining.” Now, these innovative chefs are proving otherwise—spotlighting the nation’s culinary heritage, celebrating its unique flavors, and redefining Colombian cuisine  on the global stage. Food Guide to Colombia Takeaway: Eat Like a Local! Ultimately, Colombian cuisine is all about gathering with family and friends , sharing hearty meals, and exploring new tastes together. So head to the markets, chat with friendly vendors, and don’t be afraid to sample something unexpected! Whether it’s your first tamale or your tenth empanada, every bite holds a piece of Colombia’s warm, vibrant soul. ¡Buen provecho! Enjoy every delicious moment of your culinary journey through Colombia. If you liked our food guide to Colombia, you will absolutely dine out on some of our other food guides . Let's eat! And What About Those Little Eaters?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • All-Oaxaca: Fun Facts, Great Books, & Compelling Movies

    Before I travel to a new destination – or revisit a favorite – I love to load up on interesting information, especially from a local perspective. Reading books and watching movies about a place gives you new eyes with which to absorb your own travel experiences. I love recognizing the things I’ve read about when I’m on the ground, especially when it leads to great conversations with locals. I’m also a sucker for fun facts. So, here’s a brief list of all-Oaxaca fun facts, insightful reads, and unforgettable films to check out before your visit to Oaxaca! All-Oaxaca Fun Facts 🐰  Every December 23rd , Oaxaca City hosts the Night of the Radishes ( Noche de Rábanos ), where artisans carve oversized radishes into intricate scenes, ranging from nativity displays to fantastical creatures. 🧚  María Sabina , a renowned Mazatec curandera (healer), introduced the world to the ceremonial use of hallucinogenic mushrooms. Her practices attracted celebrities in the 1960s — including John Lennon, Mick Jagger, and Bob Dylan. 🦋  Oaxaca is home to 16 officially recognized indigenous groups , each with its own language, customs, and rich history — including the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. 🍔  Oaxacans have an unexpected love for mayonnaise. Supermarkets often dedicate entire aisles to it, and it’s commonly used on street foods like esquites (corn cups), hot dogs, and hamburgers. Books All About Oaxaca Hormigas rojas (Red Ants) by Pergentino José Hormigas Rojas ( Red Ants ) is the first-ever English translation of Sierra Zapotec fiction. Written by Pergentino José, a writer and former teacher from Oaxaca, the stories spotlight Indigenous culture, language, and life—often blending dreamlike storytelling with harsh social realities. Rooted in oral tradition, some stories were originally written in Sierra Zapotec, José’s mother tongue. His characters navigate loss, violence, and marginalization, especially in changing rural communities. Zapotec storytelling emphasizes atmosphere, emotion, and the blurred lines between the real and the sacred, echoing a deep, ancestral connection to the natural world. With themes of cultural survival and spiritual disconnection, Red Ants gives English readers a rare and moving glimpse into the world of Zapotec storytelling and resistance. Oaxaca Journal by Oliver Sacks Part naturalist’s notebook, part travel diary, Oaxaca Journal is a gentle, curious, and delightfully meandering account of Oliver Sacks’ trip to southern Mexico with a group of fern enthusiasts. With his signature warmth and keen observational eye, Sacks brings to life the vibrant streets of Oaxaca, the lush landscapes, and the rich tapestry of pre-Columbian culture. As much about human connection and wonder as it is about botany, the book captures fleeting moments of joy and discovery. Sacks is full of curiosity, insight, and deep appreciation for the natural world. It feels like a conversation with an old friend… who’s super into ferns. Oaxaca Resurgent by A.S. Dillingham Oaxaca Resurgent dives into how Indigenous communities in one of Mexico’s most rebellious regions helped shape politics throughout the 20th century. Using declassified government documents and fieldwork, A. S. Dillingham tells the story of how Indigenous people worked both within and against the system—democratizing teachers’ unions and pushing for bilingual education. The book follows the lives of anthropologists, union leaders, and activists, especially during the radical energy of the 1960s. By highlighting Indigenous anticolonial efforts, it sheds light on the roots of modern multiculturalism and offers key context for movements like Oaxaca’s 2006 uprising. It’s eye-opening and deeply relevant. Must-Watch Oaxacan Films 📺  The Secret of the River (2024) Created by Alberto Barrera Tyszka This is a Mexican drama series that follows two boys, Manuel and Erik, whose friendship is forged by a tragic event they witness in their small Oaxacan village. As adults, they reunite to confront their shared past, exploring themes of identity, culture, and acceptance within the context of Zapotec traditions and the muxe community. 8 episodes on Netflix. 🎥 Muxes (2016) Directed by Ivan Olita Highlighting the unique culture of the Zapotec people of Oaxaca, Mexico, this groundbreaking HBO documentary chronicles the lives of those who identify as muxes, a widely recognized third gender. 🎥 Moronga (2017) Directed by John Dickie If you want to get a little weird... or actually, a lot weird, check out this visually engrossing feature by a Oaxacan filmmaker in which a crazed Marine stumbles through the Day of the Dead celebrations in Oaxaca, only to get caught up in a violent crime involving a young woman. Described by the filmmaker as an "absurdist Western." Rent on Vimeo here . Let these stories enrich your trip – Colombia is a place best experienced with open eyes, ears, and heart. Got That Audiobook Queued Up for the Roadtrip?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • Do I Really Need an International Driver License? (And How To Get It)

    Do I Really Need an International Driver License? (And How to Get It) An International Driving Permit (IDP) is…an absolute enigma. That’s the kindest way I can put it. The rules and regulations governing this thing are murkier than a Floridian swamp at low tide. Do a quick internet search, and you’ll find a thousand different answers about who requires it, who “honors” it, and who will absolutely, under no circumstances, never allow you to drive in their country without it – until they randomly do. I’m sitting here looking at my IDP right now. According to Wikipedia, the International Driving Permit is “a document that translates your identifying information into different languages.” What? No, it doesn’t. First of all, it’s more than just a document. It’s a booklet . But unless there’s a tiny wizard lying in wait inside, no translating is being performed. Secondly, my “identifying information” was penciled in by the clerk at the authorized IDP office. IN ENGLISH.   Sigh… Cutting to the Chase The best advice I can offer for cutting through all the ambiguity? If online buzz from travelers suggests that you need an IDP for a certain destination, just get it.  Depending on where you live, the process is mostly very simple and cheap. AS LONG AS YOU GET IT IN ADVANCE. WS&T Travel Tip:  Don’t wait until you’re already abroad—it will be annoying. If you’re not able to walk into an authorized office in person, the quoted wait time can be 5–7 weeks. Which makes this next bit of information hilarious. Wait for it… If you live somewhere with a AAA (Triple A) Office , you can get your IDP in the time it takes the clerk to snap your picture and hit PRINT . How Much Does an International Driving Permit Cost? In the US, the IDP costs $20  – hmm, maybe I should become an “approved” vendor… What Authorized Agents Provide IDPs? (United States) As alluded to above, AAA  is probably the most well-known and legitimate authorized vendor. If you perform an internet search, it seems like everyone and their second cousin can send you one, which only makes you further question the legitimacy of an “official” IDP. Is There an Exam? This is your first giveaway that the IDP is a bit silly: there is no exam.  You simply fill out the form, present your current driver license, and pay the fee . Yes, your current driver license... letting that sink in. They take your picture and paste it into a booklet filled with unimportant information. No, I’m sorry. That’s not fair to say. It’s not just unimportant – the information contained within is USELESS. Completely useless. How Long Is It Good For? In the US, the IDP is good for only one year . Because printer ink costs money, folks. (Contrast that with an Arizona Driver License, which doesn’t expire for 50 years.) Inconsistencies? Yes, Please! How about some examples? Vietnam Vietnam does not allow tourists to use either  an IDP or their own driver license. The process for getting a driver license as a tourist in Vietnam is nonexistent. According to the IDP, you’ll “exchange the IDP for a Vietnamese driver license.” Not only does that not make sense, it’s also wildly inaccurate. Brazil and Uruguay They claim to require an IDP, though the truth of whether travelers are actually asked to produce one seems completely arbitrary. The Balkans Several Balkan countries claim to require it. Some travelers have been asked about it when driving across borders; some have not. We didn’t have any trouble, but then again, we weren’t stopped. What Form Is Needed to Process an IDP? Okay, “process” is a strong word. But here’s a link to the form if you live in the US, so your life is easier: AAA IDP Form Bottom Line So, do I need an international driver license? If you've indulged my rant this far, get the IDP if it seems  like you need the IDP. Not  because you actually  need the IDP, but because you might  be required to have an IDP to magically translate your driver license into... an IDP. If travelers report driving in a country where your license is not recognized  (or “recognized but not honored”), definitely snag the IDP. But also, if you even think  you might need it – just get it. You certainly wouldn’t want to wait sixteen years for yours to process. Who can even say whether your zeal for adventure could withstand such a wait? And lastly, don’t forget Force Majeure . Oh, wow. Never forget Force Majeure. You never know when you’ll need that fancy French phrase (and your IDP). Safe travels!   Want to Make that Roadtrip a Little Smoother?  Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Clutch nap in the rental car? These fans are travel-size tiny, which makes me a big fan. Get it..? never mind. Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

  • What's It Like to Drive in Colombia?

    Challenge Level:  4 out of 5 Colombia’s road network is modernizing at an impressive rate, making it challenging to keep up with ever-changing conditions. While many highways are fully paved and well-maintained, we still encounter routes where a vehicle with good ground clearance  is recommended. For most travelers, a standard SUV or crossover should be enough—four-wheel drive isn’t strictly necessary unless you’re venturing deep into rugged areas. But if you’re picturing calm, orderly lanes, think again. Colombian roads are lively, to say the least. Quick Takeaways Road tripping is tiring  – don’t overestimate how far you can travel in a day. Limit nighttime driving  – it’s not just a suggestion; it can be downright dangerous. GPS time estimates are misleading  – plan to add about an hour+ to the time. Infrastructure is evolving fast  – new highways and expressways pop up all the time. Use Google Street View  – spot-check road conditions before you go. So, what's it really like to drive in Colombia? Here's everything we learned. Let's Start with the Infamous “Double Overtake” Imagine a huge bus passing a line of traffic on a two-lane highway, only to have another car pass the bus using the shoulder  AT THE SAME TIME . Welcome to driving in Colombia. Similarly, you’ll see vehicles decked out in flashy lights and neon strips . These aren’t just for show—they help drivers stand out thanks to all the risky maneuvers constantly being undertaken. I like to think it's a bit like the concept of aposematism in nature, where bright colors warn predators to stay away. Here, the message is basically, “Let’s avoid a head-on collision, shall we?” Metaphor Alert Navigating a Colombian city by car can feel like you’re a single fish swimming in a massive school. Motorcycles and scooters weave around you in a rushing, flowing mass. While it might sound chaotic, your best bet is to flow with the traffic. Don't try to weave or jerk the steering wheel. These people are so accustomed to this style of driving, just let them navigate around you. If you’ve driven in parts of Asia, you might find this familiar, but if not, prepare for a steep learning curve. Outside the Cities Outside metropolitan areas, roads range from a few wide-open expressways with gorgeous mountain views to plentiful slow, winding stretches that hug Colombia’s three Andean ranges: Occidental, Central, and Oriental. These towering mountains leave few straightaways, but that’s slowly changing thanks to major investments in new expressways that literally reshape Colombia’s geography. Despite these improvements, you’ll inevitably hit traffic jams whenever a single slow-moving truck clogs a narrow two-lane road. In these moments, you’ll quickly see Colombian drivers push the limits of passing on curves, hills, or with oncoming traffic. Thrilling—or terrifying—hardly covers it. “Learn by Doing”? Not Always the Best Plan It’s easy to pick up local habits—like passing a long line of cars  in one fell swoop. One risky scenario: you assume the driver ahead has a clear view, so you follow them into the oncoming lane…only to have them abruptly cut in. That's when you realize there’s a semi-truck barreling your way . Sometimes you’ll get lucky, and the oncoming vehicle swerves onto the shoulder. Sometimes you won’t. Resist the urge  to copy local maneuvers until you can calculate the risk yourself. When we lived in Manhattan, one of the local pastimes was watching crowds of pedestrians at a crosswalk, eyes glued to their phones, suddenly step off the curb under the mistaken belief they had a walk signal—simply because a few other daring souls had decided to cross through gaps in oncoming traffic. Why Driving at Night Might be Nuts Colombia’s scenic roads by day can become treacherous at night . Common hazards include: Poorly lit or missing road markings  just outside city limits. Unlit motorcycles  and vehicles with faulty or nonexistent headlights/taillights. Nonstop livestock  wandering onto unfenced roads. Sharp, unmarked hairpin curves  with minimal signage. Pavement that absorbs headlights , making it feel like driving through a black hole. If you must drive after dark (maybe you miscalculated your travel time or hit unexpected delays), take it slow . Many locals drive with their hazard lights on for added visibility, and you might want to do the same. Route Info: Medellín to Salento Routes 25, 60 South, 25B, 25, 29, and 50  are mostly smooth and quickly improving . Expect some temporary detours  due to ongoing construction, but most vehicles should be able to handle this route without issue. Route Info: Cartagena to Santa Marta (Magdalena) Route 90  might be one of the most exhilarating  (and sometimes scary) drives in Colombia: Excellent pavement  covers about 90% of the route. Single-lane sections  with wide shoulders invite drivers to treat the shoulder like a passing lane. And they will at high rates of speed! Speed cameras  abound every 10–15 km, and even being 1 km over the limit can get you a ticket. Use Waze to know where to find them. You can also learn to spot the new cameras (the old ones are still out there, too, making it all very confusing) Sudden brake lights are another signal that you're about to encounter a speed camera. Police presence  is high. Expect checkpoints and possible stops—especially if you look like a tourist. Shakedowns  can be an issue here; consult our full article  on what to do if this happens to you. Route Info: Villa de Leyva to Medellín, Routes 60 & 62 Rather than backtracking through Bogotá, we traveled this 400 km cross-country route. Is it worth it? These lesser-known routes sometimes feature partly paved roads, stretches of expressway, and rougher dirt/mud sections in mountainous areas. On the whole, this is one of those routes that's been vastly upgraded in a short amount of time, but there's still some areas that provide some steeled nerves. Especially around Santander from approx. Jordan Alto through Landazuri, the road gets pretty muddy and pot-holed with a single lane passing through swimming-pool sized puddles. While you might spend an hour navigating this area, especially when there are others vehicles, it's not a particularly long stretch of bad road. Of note, there are often flaggers working these sections. These people stand out in these super remote areas on opposing sides of a single-lane stretch, from dawn to dusk, helping people safely navigate. They are often carrying a small bucket for gratuities, so I'd recommend having some pesos on hand to tip them. We try to rely on forums to get a sense of roads, but some references online might be five or ten years old, which is ancient history for Colombia’s rapidly changing infrastructure. One tactic I love is accessing Google Street View  through Google Maps (noting the image date on the bottom right!) to confirm the current state of the road with spot checks along my route. How to Check Road Conditions Use Google Maps & Street View Plot your route, then click on specific segments  to see actual road photos. Check the image capture date  (shown at the bottom). The more recent, the better. Check out our article about how to use this awesome travel trick . Try Waze (Before You Embark) In Colombia, Waze is king  for real-time traffic, construction updates, and even identifying speed cameras or roadblocks. Every local uses it. Keep in mind it relies on cell signal. Forums and Travel Threads Look for recent posts. Anything older than a year might be outdated, given how quickly roads are upgraded. Moreover, the rainy season and frequent geological instability throughout the Andes can drastically change road conditions with no warning. Colombia’s roads can be both breathtaking  and challenging . Keep your plans flexible, drive defensively, and double-check road conditions  before hitting the highway. As always, if you have any updated information  about popular routes or personal driving experiences in Colombia, drop us a line. We’d love to keep our community informed and safe on the road. Need the Essential Gear to Make Your Roadtrip a Safe One? Click below to check out some great options for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP  For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.

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