Search Results
65 results found with an empty search
- Is it Safe to Visit & Travel Colombia?
This is one of the most important questions families will ask before embarking on a trip solo or with kids. Especially given Colombia's challenging (recent) history, we got this question a lot before our latest trip, when we visited Colombia with AJ, who was five months old at the time. Although there are some unsafe sections of the country, we believe Colombia is incredibly improved from its dark days in the 1980s-90s and is a wonderful place to visit with your family or on your own. There were a couple of times we felt a bit unsafe - both on the Caribbean Coast - but overall it's safe to visit and travel through Colombia. We also recommend you read our cheeky post on general travel safety ! We’ve both agreed that we’d be hard-pressed to think of a country we’ve visited where people were more excited about striking up a conversation just to have a chat with AJ. Certainly, some of the enthusiasm is novelty, but plenty of it is simply the love of children that is seemingly universal in Colombia. On one drive, we stopped in a small town to find an unmarked tamale shop that ended up being a woman’s house. She fixed us two of the most delicious tamales we’ve had and insisted on holding AJ while we enjoyed them. Everywhere we went, mothers with big families spoke wistfully about how much they missed holding a baby. I must say she’s one heck of an ice breaker when you’re on the road! So, is it really safe to visit and travel in Colombia? We say yes! AJ at 9300 ft, making friends In covering roughly 1,700 km (1,000 mi) in a rental vehicle, the times felt unsafe were both on the Caribbean Coast, where we experienced an uncomfortable police shakedown (that was more of a nuisance than an actual danger) and the driving itself. But I will get into that in our post on Driving in Colombia . Everywhere else that we went - including Bogotá, the city of Cartagena, Medellín, and the Zona Cafetera, people were warm and friendly. Police and military presence were notable, and cities we visited felt safe. Dissecting Colombia East & West – Routes 60 and 62 On one trip, we drove from Bogotá to Villa de Leyva, a popular daytrip and/or overnight expedition. From Villa de Leyva, we needed to get to Medellin for the next leg of our journey, but didn’t want to backtrack. We did a lot of debating, since Route 60 and Route 62 cross over the spine of some pretty rugged terrain. There just wasn’t a great deal of up-to-date information from travelers who’d made this voyage by vehicle. Everything I could find was several years old. Where this is potentially problematic is in the fact that Colombia’s roadways are being modernized at breakneck speed, thanks to enormous international investments. In the end, it seemed like Route 62, leaving to the north of Villa de Leyva, was the better choice. When in doubt, a great way to determine the safety and condition of the roads is to pop into Google Maps and see if they’ve dispatched one of their Street View vehicles to photograph your route recently. Any street imagery from the last year can be super helpful, given the speed at which Colombian infrastructure is evolving. Mind you, it’s a bit tedious peeking down stretches of roadway to check conditions, but extremely helpful if information is limited. It can also go a long way in helping you decide which kind of vehicle to rent. For more details about actual conditions of Colombia roads and routes, see our post on driving in Colombia. Halloween in Salento, Col? I mean, c'mon! We did drive through some areas in Medellin, in particular near the city center’s museums and plazas, where life looked decidedly unkind to segments of the population. Some of the blocks where items are scrapped and sold are about as rough as what you’d encounter driving through Skid Row in Los Angeles, while only a block or two away, families, tourists, and businesspeople on lunch breaks are relaxing in a beautiful plaza surrounded by chubby Botero sculptures. Like most places, petty crime statistics tend to be higher in cities. However, adjusted for day versus night, I think you’ll agree the odds are higher after hours. That being said, every city has neighborhoods that remain pretty safe and are well patrolled even after dark. In both Medellin and Bogotá, we felt plenty comfortable walking some of the more touristed areas where nightlife consisted of a mix of families and tourists. Generally Safer Zones in Colombia’s Larger Metro Areas Here's a brief glimpse of our favorite places in Colombia’s bigger cities: 1. Bogotá: Chapinero & Zona G – Trendy, upscale spots known for great restaurants, cafes, and nightlife. Generally safe, but good to be alert after dark. Usaquén – A charming, historic district with cobblestone streets, a popular Sunday flea market, and a relaxed vibe. Zona T & Parque de la 93 – Modern, bustling areas where many international tourists stay. They’re pretty well-patrolled by police. 2. Medellín: El Poblado – Arguably the most popular neighborhood for visitors, with vibrant nightlife, cafes, and restaurants. El Poblado’s main tourist hub (Parque Lleras) stays busy. Laureles – A calmer residential area than El Poblado, known for tree-lined streets, local eateries, and fewer crowds, making it a favorite among longer-term travelers and digital nomad types. 3. Cartagena: The Walled City (Centro Histórico) – A UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its colonial architecture, plazas, and pastel-hued streets. Tourism police are present, and the area is relatively secure. Bocagrande – Cartagena’s modern district with high-rise hotels and a beachside promenade. Typically safe, though watch out for pickpockets on the beach. Areas to Avoid or Exercise Extreme Caution While the US State Department can seem to us to be a little intense about their advisories, it's wise to pay attention to their no-go zones (marked red on the state department website) . Check the State Dept website for the latest updates before your trip, but for now, the following are some places avoid in your next itinerary: 1. Remote Border Regions Border Areas with Venezuela (e.g., around Cúcuta) – Historically, these regions have experienced smuggling, organized crime, and occasional unrest. Southwestern Borders (e.g., near Tumaco) – Some remote towns have a higher presence of illegal armed groups and narcotrafficking. If you need to travel there, stay informed through reliable local sources. 2. Rural Zones with Known Guerrilla Activity Some pockets in Cauca , Putumayo , and Arauca still experience sporadic unrest tied to illegal armed groups and coca cultivation. While the overall security situation in Colombia has vastly improved, certain areas remain risky. 3. The Darién Gap Though technically on the border with Panama, this dense jungle is notoriously dangerous due to smuggling routes, harsh terrain, and minimal state presence. It’s strongly advised to avoid overland crossings here. Need the Essential Gear to Make Your Trip a Safe One? Click below to check out some great options for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- Pico y Placa: Driving Restrictions in Colombian Cities
Must-Know Driving Restrictions in Colombia “Pico y Placa” (literally “Peak and Plate”) is a traffic-control measure implemented in many Colombian cities to help manage congestion and reduce pollution. What Exactly Is Pico y Placa? Under Pico y Placa, vehicles with certain ending digits on their license plate are restricted from driving during specified hours on particular days of the week. Each city’s rules can differ – sometimes significantly – so it’s important for travelers planning to rent a car to verify the local regulations. Most importantly, the restricted numbers change approximately every six months. That means it’s important to get the most up-to-date information you can. Your rental agency clerk should give you the lowdown and help you pick the right vehicle based on the timing of your trip, but if your Spanish isn’t great, this guide is helpful in knowing what to ask and how to be prepared in case your plans change. Jump ahead to learn exactly what to do at the car rental agency . For our own trips, we did our best to get vehicles for which the P&P restriction had just passed. If you’re sticking around in a city for more than a week, or driving through another city on a road trip, be aware. Most cities do not offer a workaround. In our experience, only Bogotá let us pay for an exemption. You can speak to your car rental agent about this. Below is an overview to help you understand where Pico y Placa operates, how it’s applied, and what it may mean for you. Where Pico y Placa is Commonly Enforced Bogotá Medellín (and much of the Valle de Aburrá metro area) Cali Bucaramanga Pasto Other mid-sized cities may also have variations of Pico y Placa, though the schedules and enforcement can be less rigorous than in the biggest cities. How Pico y Placa Works License Plate Restrictions Vehicles are restricted based on the last digit (or sometimes last two digits) of the license plate. For example, if Monday is designated for plates ending in 1 or 2, then on Mondays those vehicles cannot drive in restricted zones during Pico y Placa hours. Restricted Hours Typically on weekdays , Monday through Friday. The time window often spans rush-hour periods (e.g., 6:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. in many cities), though exact times vary and can include midday hours in some locations. Weekends are generally exempt, except during special events (like large civic happenings) or temporary modifications. Geographic Scope Typically applies in the urban core – key avenues, business districts, and crowded zones. In large metropolitan areas (e.g., Bogotá, Medellín metro area), it can extend quite widely across the city. Enforcement Traffic police and automated cameras monitor compliance. Fines for violations can be significant, and repeated infractions may lead to impoundment of the vehicle. Rotations and Updates Cities often rotate which plate numbers are restricted on which days every 6 months or year. Check official city websites or local news to confirm the current rotation. Websites to Help You “Pico y Placa” information can be sourced on a few of these sites. Bogotá Cartagena Medellín Cali City-by-City Snapshot Bogotá General Hours: Currently 6:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. (subject to change). Restrictions by Plate Number: Often follows a rotation Exceptions & Alternatives: Pico y Placa Solidario: Residents (and in some cases, visitors) can pay for an exemption, valid for a set period. Carpool Exemptions: Certain rules allow exemptions if traveling with a specified minimum number of occupants. Medellín (Valle de Aburrá Metropolitan Area) General Hours: Often 5:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. or 7:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. on weekdays (exact hours can shift). Restrictions: Rotate every 6 months. The city publishes a schedule—e.g., “Monday: plates ending in 0, 1,” etc. Geographic Scope: Includes Medellín proper plus neighboring municipalities in the Aburrá Valley (Bello, Itagüí, Envigado, etc.)—each municipality coordinates with the others so the Pico y Placa applies across much of the region. Cali General Hours: Commonly from 6:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., weekdays. Restrictions: Based on the last digit of the plate, with a schedule published by the city government. Important to Note: Cali’s traffic authority regularly updates the restrictions, sometimes varying routes or times, so always verify the latest news. Other Cities Bucaramanga, Pasto, and more : They also have Pico y Placa policies, typically with similar weekday restrictions. Hours and plate rotations differ—always confirm specifics with local transit websites or by inquiring with your rental car agency. Tips for Travelers Renting a Car Check Your Plate : Ask the rental agent about Pico y Placa and your plate number. Try to get a vehicle whose restriction has just passed. They can tell you which days (and times) you must avoid driving. Plan Around Restrictions : If your sightseeing plans include driving across town during peak hours, be sure to confirm if your vehicle is restricted on that day. If it is, consider: Adjusting your travel schedule to drive before or after the restricted window. Using public transportation, taxis, or rideshare services (Uber, Didi, Cabify, etc.) on your restricted day. Keep Up with Changes : Local governments can introduce temporary suspensions or changes (for holidays, special events, or environmental emergencies). If you’re in Colombia for an extended stay, follow local news or check the local Secretaría de Movilidad website. Possible Exemptions : In Bogotá , you may pay for a “Pico y Placa Solidario” pass. Carpooling with multiple passengers is sometimes permitted as an exemption, but the rules vary. Some rental car companies, in coordination with local authorities, can guide you on any official exemptions – but don’t assume a rental car is automatically exempt; it almost never is. Fines and Penalties : Violations can be expensive. A typical penalty might exceed $100 USD , and in worst-case scenarios, the car may be impounded. It’s not worth the risk –plan accordingly. Good luck on your Colombian adventure -- we hope you feel like a Pico y Placa authority after reading this! Wanna Be Even More Travel Compliant? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- The Ultimate Valle de Cocora Hike
Our Favorite Way to Experience the Valle de Cocora The biggest attraction near Salento, Valle de Cocora is located a scenic 30-minute drive from the village. If you want to know how to get yourself to the beautiful Zona Cafetera in the first place, check out our itinerary ! The Valle is the home of the epically tall and skinny wax palms – and served as the inspiration for the magical valley in Disney’s Encanto. (Until recently, T had never seen the movie so we watched it there; yes, we had the soundtrack stuck in their heads for the rest of the trip – and no, we don’t talk about Bruno ). Whether you opt for a shorter “mirador” hike or tackle the full loop, you’re in for an unforgettable experience. Keep in mind that this region sits at very high altitude —between 8,500 to 9,300 feet (2,600–2,800 m)—so pace yourself if you’re not used to hiking in thinner air. You have two main options to make this the ultimate Cocora hike : the shorter mirador hike or the full loop. See below for the details on both options. The Shorter “Mirador” (Lookout) Hike Starting Point: Restaurante Juan B Jaramillo (paid parking available, plus a post-hike trout meal). Route Details: After parking, walk up the road and stay left as the path leads you over a small river. You’ll enter the Bosque de Palmas and begin a steady ascent to Mirador 1 and Mirador 2 . Enjoy viewing platforms, wax palm photo ops, and even a drink stop along the way. You can choose to do this section as a loop or an out-and-back – both are beautiful options. Distance & Elevation: Approximately 3 miles (4.8 km) round-trip, with 940 ft (286 m) of elevation gain. Optional Activity: Horse rentals are available at the base if you prefer to ride up to the Bosque. Ultimate Cocora Hike Experience: Do The Full Valle Loop For the more adventurous (and those with enough time), you can complete the entire valley loop in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Read on for all the details on our counterclockwise experience. Don't forget to bring cash for the entrance fees! Deets below. WS&T Travel Tip: This long hike is not for the faint of heart – the distance, elevation, one-person-at-a-time cable bridges, muddy spots, and altitude are demanding. Our Experience We chose to hike counterclockwise and found it both stunning and challenging. It ended up being one of the most beautiful hikes we’ve ever done – even though we had a 15-pound baby in tow, and one of us was recovering from a stomach bug! Our AllTrails recording showed 8.5 miles (13.7 km) with about 2,500 ft (762 m) of elevation gain, at an average elevation of 9,000 ft (2,743 m). Total time: About 5.5 hours , including the Acaime detour (hummingbird sanctuary with life-affirming chocolate y queso -- yup, hot chocolate and cheese!). ALL THE NITTY GRITTY DETAILS ON THE VALLE DE COCORA HIKE 1. Gear & Footwear Check Conditions: If it’s rainy, the trail can be quite muddy. Footwear: Hiking boots are best, but if you only have sneakers, make sure they have good traction. (You can rent mud boots at the trailhead for a small fee, but they may be uncomfortable for the full loop.) Clothing: Wear long pants and carry a rain jacket if the forecast calls for wet weather. We went during the rainy season, but no rain. Go figure. 2. Water & Snacks Bring plenty of water (and snacks if you’re doing the full loop). More altitude, more water. 3. Entrance Fees & Cash The trail crosses private property, so you’ll need to pay several entrance fees in cash : Bosque de Palmas: 20,000 COP/person Acaime (Hummingbird sanctuary): 20,000 COP/person (optional detour) Finca El Portón: 6,000 COP/person (Babies are free!) Clockwise vs. Counterclockwise You can tackle the full loop clockwise or counterclockwise. Here’s why it matters : Clockwise Pros: You’ll enjoy the Bosque de Palmas early on; if you decide it’s too tough, you can easily turn back. You avoid the steep climb from the Acaime hummingbird sanctuary to Finca La Montaña. Cons: You’ll face a longer, steeper descent toward the end, which can be tough on the knees. Tip: If you choose clockwise, just continue from Mirador #2 rather than retracing your steps. Counterclockwise (Our Experience) We decided to do the full loop counterclockwise – and it was absolutely stunning, possibly the most beautiful hike we’ve ever done. It was also quite challenging: Carrying Baby AJ: E carried our 15-pound baby the entire way. Post-Bug Fatigue: T was recovering from a nasty vomiting bug (but refused to miss the hike). Result: Slightly insane? Maybe. Worth it? Absolutely! Why We Loved Counterclockwise Gradual Overall Gradient: Although there is a steep climb in the middle, the rest of the hike feels more manageable. Safer (with a Baby): We felt more comfortable dealing with a challenging uphill mid-hike rather than a steep downhill, especially with a baby in tow. Big Finish: We ended at the iconic Bosque de Palmas . Despite the crowds (some people dressed as if heading to a country club in espadrilles!), we had the satisfaction of having completed the entire epic loop. We couldn’t help feeling a little smug—hauling a baby and pushing through altitude while onlookers snapped photos in their weekend best. Key Takeaways for Each Route Clockwise: See the best views early; risk a steep descent. Counterclockwise: Save the big palm forest for last; face a tough uphill section in the middle. Either Way: Bring plenty of water and cash for entrance fees, and prepare for muddy conditions. Our Counterclockwise Route Start: After parking, walk up the road and stay right , passing through a blue entrance gate . Park Info Booth: You’ll encounter a park employee who may advise you on the difficulty of the trail (especially if you’re carrying a baby!). We smiled politely in the face of his skepticism. Trout Hatchery (Las Truchas): Option to pay 5,000 COP to feed the trout. Suspension Bridges: Cross a potentially muddy or rocky area, then take each single-file bouncing suspension bridge slowly. Finca El Portón: Pay your first entrance fee , then continue gently uphill through scenic fields dotted with cows. Forest Section: The trail becomes steeper here, with more suspension bridges and an optional detour to a small waterfall. Acaime Hummingbird Sanctuary (Optional Detour): Turn right at the sign for Acaime (La Casa de Colibris). Expect a 90–120 minute round-trip detour with a steep ascent. At Acaime, enjoy watching hummingbirds at feeders and sip hot chocolate with fresh cheese (unusual but delicious). Afterward, retrace your steps to the main trail. All work in the sanctuary halted as the mess kitchen ladies, busy with their steaming chocolate pots, took turns holding AJ and snapping pictures. Finca La Montaña: Continue up a steep section of switchbacks to the highest point of the trail. Finca La Esperanza: About 30 minutes later, pay your last entrance fee here at a tiny hut and fence break, and buy a cold drink (or even a postcard) if you’d like. Bosque de Palmas: Finally, descend gradually into the iconic wax palm forest. The second half of the hike is easier on the lungs but harder on the knees! Finish: Return to the main road, your car, and celebrate with a well-deserved trout lunch. Final Thoughts We wrestled with the decision to tackle the hike while carrying AJ, but in the end our wanderlust – and stubbornness – won out. The trek was undeniably tough, but there was only one moment when E felt truly anxious: navigating a short rocky stream crossing. T went ahead to help guide her across the big flat stones step by step, ensuring AJ stayed safe the entire time. If any of this sounds unappealing – we get it! We recommend doing just the Bosque de Palmas portion for the stunning views. Wanna Get the Most Out of That Hike? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- 7 Days in Colombia - Medellín & Zona Cafetera
Who doesn't love big letters? Welcome to our 7-day dive into one of the most vibrant and biodiverse countries in the world! This itinerary begins in Medellín – a city that has emerged from its violent past with a burst of energy, enthusiasm, and true lust for life. People from Medellín (aka paisas ) are thrilled to be able to live their lives and better their city; Medellín is truly a Cinderella story. Just a few hours south, you’ll find enough incredible coffee fincas and eye-popping mountain scenery to keep you busy for days. When Eve was in her backpacking days, her itineraries were loosely based on gut instinct and guidebook vibes – and they (almost) always worked out. But as parents, we know how important it is to have a plan. This guide blends structure with the freedom to customize, ensuring your family adventure hits all the right notes. If you're wondering whether Colombia is safe , when to go, how to rent a car, what the roads are like, or how to get around, check out our Colombia Travel Overview . Got more than 7 days for Colombia? Lucky you! Check out our 10-day Guide or consider spending extra time on the Caribbean coast (hello, beach time) – check out our guide to Cartagena and the North . For now, let’s dive into an unforgettable 7-day route through this incredible country. 7-DAY COLOMBIA ITINERARY: QUICK PEEK Days 1-4: Medellín (3 Nights) Day Trip to Guatapé Day 4: Travel to the Zona Cafetera Days 4-7: Zona Cafetera (3 Nights) Salento and the Valle de Cocora Day 7: Return to Medellín (1 Night or Travel Home - & start planning your next trip!) Day 1: Arrive in Medellín Welcome to Medellín! For many people, Medellín is synonymous with the terrible violence associated with Escobar’s reign of terror – for good reason as Medellín was for a time the murder capital of the world. We want to stress how incredible this city’s turnaround has been. After Escobar’s cartel was pushed out and the country’s leadership struck a deal with FARC, Medellín’s most creative minds got together to conceive of a fresh start. Everywhere we got the sense that people are so happy to have their city back after living under siege for so long. That’s not to say there aren’t still some parts of the city recovering, and of course there is widespread poverty. Check out our practical tips for staying safe(r ) wherever you travel. Suffice it to say, we felt safe and happy to wander around with AJ and explore Medellín’s many cultural offerings. It’s a truly special city and hopefully it will only continue to grow and thrive. The warm, spring-like weather year-round is a major bonus (pack light layers), and the city’s welcoming energy will leave a lasting impression on your family. Getting to Medellín You may be able to find a direct flight into Medellín, otherwise you can change planes in Bogotá. There are tons of flights heading between these airports every day. Main Airport : Most flights land at José María Córdova Airport, about 30–40 minutes from the city center. Smaller Airport : Some budget airlines, like EasyFly and Satena, operate out of Olaya Herrera Airport, much closer to downtown. Getting Cash: Money : We grab some Colombian Pesos from an airport ATM (best rates) or use the currency exchange counter if we’ve brought cash. WS&T Money Tip: Travel credit card for points. Our rec. And a card w/ fee reimbursement for the ATM. (Some Argentine ATMs charged $6-10 USD, so thank you, Fidelity!) Getting to Your Hotel Taxi : Use the official white taxis with blue stripes. WS&T Money Tip: Find out the price beforehand and ask if they take credit cards. Otherwise, make sure you have enough cash on hand. Uber : Reliable and affordable. Double-check your pickup location in the app. Pickup is a short walk from the terminal taxi stands. Didi : Another ride-hailing app that works well here. Car Rental : Available at both airports. From the main airport, head over to baggage claim and exit the airport, then turn left to find the car rental center. See our full guide to renting a car in Colombia for details. If you want to rent a car, make sure your hotel has parking and be prepared to deal with some fairly significant city traffic, especially during rush hours. You can also wait to rent a car until you’re heading out of town. The city’s metro transit system is fantastic. If you decide to wait on the car rental, you can rent a car from a rental location in the city center (check out Enterprise, Sixt, or Localiza’s downtown locations) on your way out of town. We did a one-way rental, so we were able to return the car in Pereira, minimizing backtracking. WS&T Travel Tip: Don’t forget Pico y Placa. Congestion driving restrictions can prevent you from driving on certain days. Learn more in our article covering the subject . Where to Stay in Medellín We recommend the El Poblado neighborhood, an upmarket spot which – while outside the main tourist attraction area downtown – makes for a pleasant, slightly exurban stay. Some areas are nightlife-central, but overall, it was a good spot for families. Top Hotel Picks for Family Stays : Hotel Poblado Plaza : We enjoyed our stay at this fairly simple hotel in El Poblado. Great/easy parking and really yummy breakfast (so many veggies!). Diez Hotel Categoria Colombia: Well-decorated, funky hotel with amenities like a spa, rooftop terrace, and multiple restaurants on site. Airbnb Options : Plenty of family-friendly rentals are available in El Poblado, including options with kitchens and laundry facilities. Getting Around Medellín If you have your own rental car, you can brave the traffic and roundabouts – it’s not bad, just takes patience and attention, like driving in any major city. If you’re not used to having thousands of motorcycles and scooters flow around you like speeding schools of metal fish, you may want to choose one of our other recommendations. Medellín’s public transportation system is one of the best in South America, with multiple ways to explore: Metro : Clean, efficient, and affordable. You’ll need a Cívica card, which can be purchased at metro stations. Keep cash on hand for the ticket counter clerk in case the machines aren’t working (a lesson we learned the hard way). The nearest ATM was in a mall five minutes away. Metrocable (Cable Cars) : A highlight of the city, these aerial cable cars connect hillside neighborhoods to the metro system and offer breathtaking views. Uber/Didi : Best for convenience and flexibility when traveling with kids. What to Do in Medellín Medellín is packed with cultural attractions, unique neighborhoods, and family-friendly spots: City Center Highlights The city center holds the majority of the museums and churches to see in Medellín, while also being home to some truly sketchy streets. We drove down one in particular where suddenly the green, clean urban landscape turned into a scrap-metal den for the down-and-out. We live in LA, and honestly it felt fairly similar to streets around downtown Los Angeles and Skid Row. It was more jarring than anything else; people looked like they were doing their best to get by and not trying to bother anyone. Through the middle of this chaotic scene, we also saw a well-dressed woman walking her pristinely groomed fluffy dog. So, keep your wits about you (and maybe take a different street if you’re walking) but don’t stress too much. When you arrive, we recommend starting your mini-tour at the Plaza Botero . Medellín (and indeed, much of Colombia) is very proud of Fernando Botero, the sculptor and painter whose very distinctive rotund subjects are unmistakable. In fact, you’ve most likely seen his work before even if you didn’t realize it. Think very chubby children and notables, very chubby dogs and cats, very chubby fruit, very chubby everything. Strange fellow, but quite likeable! Plaza Botero : Home to 23 oversized bronze sculptures by Fernando Botero, gifted to his hometown. Museo de Antioquia : Adjacent to the plaza, a total unsung gem of a museum. We loved its mix of international art, lesser-known Botero works, and modern exhibits. It’s super well-curated, and all the works are displayed in an airy Art Deco building that’s a work of art itself. Grab a latté and a pastry in the cute coffee shop on the bottom floor before you leave. Nearby: Ermita de la Veracruz, the Catedral Metropolitana (built with 1.2 million bricks), the Parque Berrío , the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria , and the Parque San Antonio . A Bit North of City Center (but well worth it): Jardín Botánico : An oasis amid the concrete jungle, the lush Jardín Botánico which boasts a major collection of plants and orchids in particular. Note: check out our recommended book s ; there’s a great section in Magdelena about this spot. If you’re looking for something toddler or kid-friendly, check out the very fun, interactive Parque Explora nearby. Cable Cars and Comuna 13 Medellín’s “metrocable” or cable car system is rightly praised as one of the city’s great, new innovations. The cable car system connects the populous hillside barrios with the main city, linking people to the workforce who were previously cut off by geography. Cable Cars : Ride the K and J lines to see the city from above. Comuna 13 Tour : Once one of Medellín’s most dangerous neighborhoods, Comuna 13 is now a vibrant hub of street art and community pride. Join a local-guided tour to learn about its inspiring transformation. Parque Arví : This nature reserve is located at the very end of the long metrocable L line, and honestly the breathtaking journey is more than half the fun. How to Get to Parque Arví We took the metro from the Poblado station to Acevedo, then took the metrocable K line three stops to Santo Domingo, where we finally caught the L line. You ride this all the way through the communas and over an incongruous, beautiful forest to the end of the line: Parque Arví. Before going, we read that some visitors find the park a little underwhelming and it’s true; this isn’t the most incredible nature reserve you’ll ever visit. But to us, that was beside the point. The journey was so unique and fun, and we loved how much pride the staff took in the Arví. All of the nature walks were kid-friendly, and there were two different spots to get drinks and lunch (we had a really good hamburger). All in all, a unique and different way to explore the city! Additional Family-Friendly Sites in Medellín Parque Explora : An interactive science park with an aquarium and hands-on exhibits, perfect for kids. Pueblito Paisa : A charming replica of a traditional Antioquian village with stunning city views. Where to Eat in Medellín Check out our cheat sheet on Colombian cuisine for a food-obsessed overview of the country's flavors, staples, and signature dishes. In El Poblado Pergamino Café: Good coffee and Colombian twists on breakfast and brunch classics. Ajiacos y Mondongos: Get your traditional feasting on at this cheap, high-quality spot. Mondongo is tripe soup… some love it, some hate it. If you’re a mondongo lover, you’ve got to visit Mondongo’s restaurant – for obvious reasons. Il Forno: Satisfy your Italian craving with nice pizza and pasta. Carmen: If you can manage with the kids, this upscale restaurant is innovative and delicious. We’re a little traumatized by it because it was the site of AJ’s biggest meltdown to date, but the food was still yummy! Book ahead. Náufrago Bar: This rooftop bar boasts delicious, creative cocktails and a beautiful view of the city. We came up early with AJ to enjoy a drink and watch the sun set before the cool kids arrived. S ambombi Bistro Local: Gorgeous and creative Colombian cuisine. Book ahead. La Chagra: Creative pick focusing on indigenous ingredients and traditional recipes reimagined for a modern city. WS&T Bratpacker Tip: Early dinners are less stressful with kids! Check out our deep dive into navigating restaurants with fussy kids. In the City Center Hacienda Junín : Great place to try classic Colombian dishes in a relaxed environment. Beware the stairs for strollers, but the staff kindly helps out! Hatoviejo : Another excellent option offering a similar respite from the hubbub of the center. WS&T Healthier Food Picks: Try Hummus Fusión for Mediterranean or Azai Praia Lovers via Primavera for gluten free/vegan options. Day 3: Day Trip to Guatapé After spending the day in Medellín, you might be hooked and want to keep exploring. But if you’re ready to get outside the city, consider a day trip to Guatapé , a colorful lakeside town about 2 hours from Medellín. Guatapé is a gem of a small town located about two hours from Medellín. You can either drive your rental car or you can easily organize transport from your hotel or find a driver service (e.g. on Viator). It’s a popular day-trip, so getting there should be straightforward. Keep in mind that it can get crowded on weekends. If you’re feeling ambitious, you can take a 2-hour bus from Medellín’s north station. Guatapé looks like a picture postcard (that’s Olde English for Insta-worthy) with its colorfully painted “ zócalos ” or house panels. Wandering the town will provide no shortage of lovely views and picture spots. Check out the beautiful central Parque Principal, then head east on the Calle del Comercio (Calle 31). You’ll take the stairs across from #29-9 to the Plazoleta de los Zócalos and enjoy the painted houses all the way to the waterfront. Calle de Recuerdo (Carretera 28) is also a good street to walk down. The Lake: You can take a 3-hour tour of the lake (afternoons during the week, anytime on weekends) by heading to the waterfront, where there will be a range of companies hawking their cruises. Lake View Hostel also offers a lake tour with a stop at the mostly-submerged El Peñon church. The Rock: The 200-meter Piedra del Peñol towers over Guatapé. It’s a wild sight from the ground, but the adventuresome can climb 649 stairs for an incredible all-around view of the city. If you decide to wear baby up the Rock, you’re a rock… star. Healthy, delicious food options are plentiful in this town: La Fogata, Guatacrep’, and Pizzeria de Luigi are some great choices. Highlights : Piedra del Peñol : Climb the 649 steps of this massive rock for jaw-dropping views. The Town : Known for its vibrant zócalos (decorative house panels) and charming streets. The Lake : Take a boat tour to see the submerged El Peñon church. What’s Next? On Day 4, you’ll leave from Medellín and head to the stunning Zona Cafetera, Colombia’s coffee-growing heartland. Days 4–7: Zona Cafetera – Colombia’s Coffee Triangle (3 Nights) Welcome to the Zona Cafetera , a lush, green paradise and Colombia’s “Coffee Triangle,” surrounding the towns of Manizales, Pereira, and Salento where the majority of Colombia’s famous coffee is grown. It has a great mix of outdoor activities, delicious food (hello trout!), and generally excellent vibes. Getting to the Zona Cafetera from Medellín For travelers seeking flexibility and freedom, renting a car in Medellín is an excellent way to explore Colombia’s famed coffee region. Be sure to check out our comprehensive guide to renting a car in Colombia for tips on driving regulations, insurance options, and more. You can pick up your rental right at the airport or opt for a convenient city-center location. We chose a one-way rental ourselves, dropping the car off in Pereira before catching a flight back to Bogotá—an easy way to avoid unnecessary backtracking. Depending on your final destination, the drive from Medellín to the Zona Cafetera can take several hours. Manizales is about four hours from El Poblado, while Salento is roughly five. Road conditions are generally good, with newly constructed expressways helping you navigate the mountainous terrain with ease. When we last drove in December 2024, a few temporary detours did funnel us onto single-lane roads, but the ongoing improvements suggest an even smoother ride in the very near future. If you prefer not to drive, there are frequent flights from Medellín to Pereira, Armenia, or Manizales, the three main cities in the region. Where to Stay in Zona Cafetera We highly recommend finding a coffee finca to either visit or spend the night. We spent the night at the lovely Hacienda Venecia , a beautiful spot with incredible plant and bird life and a host of different activities. You pay a little extra to include your meals (many of these fincas are far from any other food options) and you can choose from a range of different activities and tours around the property, like coffee tours and tastings (with the option to have the tours in English). Fun for kids and non-coffee drinkers too. Tours explore the country’s history and cultivation of premium coffee, demonstrate the harvest process, and ultimately culminate in a brewing experience. You don’t have to be an adult to enjoy the beautiful nature in which these gorgeous places are nestled. Hacienda Venecia (Outside Manizales) : A stunning coffee farm with guided tours, birdwatching, and delicious communal meal events. The perfect mix of relaxation and education! Hacienda Guayabal (South Chinchiná) : A smaller coffee farm offering hands-on tours and rustic charm. Hotel el Ocaso (Salento) : A boutique option with breathtaking nature views and family-friendly amenities. Another worthy side trip is the Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados . Check out Páramo Trek or Adeguidas Caldas for information on organizing a guide. Explore Salento and the Valle de Cocora Salento is a small, walkable, and colorful town that feels like it’s been plucked straight from a storybook and perched on a hilltop. Wander through the vibrant streets, enjoy trout cooked a dozen ways (yes, a dozen), and take in the mountain views. Willy Jeeps : Hop into one of the iconic jeeps in Salento’s main plaza for fun rides all over the region. Valle de Cocora Hike : This breathtaking valley is home to Colombia’s national tree, the towering wax palm. Choose between the shorter 3-mile mirador hike or the full 8.5-mile loop (detailed tips below) that’s not for the faint of heart. Where to Stay in Salento Stay within walking distance of the plaza and you can’t go wrong. We stayed at this very cool Airbnb right at the edge of town – and a block from the best chocolate T thinks he’s ever had – where we got beautiful, green mountain views while still being in the city. We were also in Salento during Halloween and let me tell you – watching the costumed local kids trick or treat around town was just about the cutest thing ever. Everything You Need to Know about the Valle de Cocora Hike The biggest attraction near Salento, Valle de Cocora is located about a 30-minute picturesque drive from the village. The Valle is the home of the epically tall and skinny wax palms – and the inspiration for the valley in Disney’s Encanto . Whether you opt for a shorter “mirador” hike or tackle the full loop, you’re in for an unforgettable experience. Keep in mind that this region sits at high altitude—between 8,500 to 9,300 feet (2,600–2,800 m)—so pace yourself if you’re not used to hiking in thinner air. The long hike is not for the faint of heart – the combination of distance, elevation, one-person-at-a-time cable bridges, occasional muddy spots, and altitude can be demanding. If you're up for it, check out our super detailed guide to everything you need to know about the Valle de Cocora hike! If you read that and think, "NO WAY ARE WE DOING THAT HIKE. ARE YOU CRAZY? WHAT ELSE CAN WE DO?" Here are some other options: Nature Reserves and Bird-watching Zona Cafetera is a haven for nature lovers. Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados : A stunning national park featuring snow-capped peaks and lush páramo landscapes. Guided tours are a must for safety. Reserva Río Blanco (Manizales) : Ideal for birdwatching, with a chance to spot toucans, hummingbirds, and more. Top Eats in Salento: The region’s culinary offerings are just as impressive as its landscapes. Trout is the local specialty, often served with fried plantains and rice. Los Amigos : Simple but delicious trout dishes. Bernabé : A cozy spot with an eclectic menu and great coffee. La Eliana : Curry and international dishes with a Colombian twist. Optional Adventure: Hot Springs in Santa Rosa de Cabal If you’re looking to unwind, visit the cloudy Termales thermal hot springs in Santa Rosa de Cabal . Surrounded by a towering waterfall and lush greenery, it’s about 14km from Pereira. What’s Next? On Day 7, you’ll head back to Medellín for one more night or to begin your journey home. Or, if you’re lucky enough to have extra time, consider extending your trip to Cartagena or the Caribbean Coast . Wanna Make 7 Days Go Even More Smoothly? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Pics, Push Pins, Tokens OR IT DIDN'T HAPPEN! Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.
- All-Colombia: Fun Facts, Great Books, & Compelling Movies
Before I travel to a new destination – or revisit a favorite – I love to load up on interesting information, especially from a local perspective. Reading books and watching movies about a place gives you new eyes with which to absorb your own travel experiences. I love recognizing the things I’ve read about when I’m on the ground, especially when it leads to great conversations with locals. I’m also a sucker for fun facts. So, here’s a brief list of All-Colombia fun facts, insightful reads, and unforgettable films to check out before your visit to Colombia! All-Colombia Fun Facts 🇨🇴 Colombia has the most bird species of any country in the world. 🏙 Medellín – once a violent hotspot – was named the “Most Innovative City in the World” in 2013 by the Urban Land Institute. 🧬 The country is home to 102 different indigenous groups . 🎶 By law, the national anthem plays twice a day on the radio. ¡Viva Colombia! All-Colombia Books Living to Tell the Tale by Gabriel García Márquez Gabo is a legendary Colombian author, as beloved by the people of his home country as he is vaunted worldwide for his pioneering magical realism. Western readers sometimes struggle with this literary style, which can feel at odds with realism, but don’t overthink it – just let the story wash over you. If and when you dive into Marquez’s classics like 100 Years of Solitude or Love in the Time of Cholera , remember two things: no, you’re not supposed to remember every single character’s name and backstory – just let the tale wash over you! Second, magical realism is about evoking a sense of reality in all its absurdities and perspectives; the magic allows for reality to be splintered, chaotic, painful, and beautiful. Living to Tell the Tale is Gabo’s memoir and an intimate portrait of the man behind the masterpieces. It’s especially powerful to read while wandering the places he writes about. Magdalena: River of Dreams by Wade Davis A heartfelt tribute to Colombia and its epic river, this book is part travelogue, part history, and entirely engrossing. Wade Davis, a veteran journalist, captures the heartbreak and resilience of the Colombian people. We listened to the audiobook during our road trip – it was moving, eye-opening, and unforgettable. Blending memoir, history, and vivid storytelling, Davis traces the river’s journey through its three major sections, meeting the people who live along its banks and capturing their resilience and dreams. Through poetic writing and striking photography, he presents an inspiring narrative of hope and transformation, challenging stereotypes and revealing Colombia’s rich, complex identity. December Breeze by Marvel Moreno Set in Barranquilla on the Caribbean coast during the 1950s and '60s, this novel explores the lives of upper-class women confronting the strict rules of a patriarchal society. Marvel Moreno vividly captures their resistance against social expectations and double standards, painting a rich and often heartbreaking picture of gender, freedom, and identity in mid-century Colombia. Moreno’s most famous work, December Breeze was a finalist for the Plaza y Janés International Literary Prize in 1985 and won the Grinzane-Cavour Prize in 1989. It was praised as one of the best works of the post-boom era, according to journalist Plinio Apuleyo Mendoza. The novel helped cement her place among influential Latin American women writers. Must-Watch Colombian Films 🎥 Embrace of the Serpent (2015) Directed by Ciro Guerra A lyrical and haunting black-and-white film that follows Karamakate, an Amazonian shaman, as he journeys with two scientists across decades. Based on real journals, it explores first contact, betrayal, and friendship through a poetic lens. Visually stunning and spiritually profound. 🎥 La Estrategia del Caracol (The Strategy of the Snail) (1993) Directed by Sergio Cabrera This acerbic, often hilarious satire follows tenants in Bogotá resisting illegal eviction. Their ingenious plan to outwit a powerful landlord becomes a sharp commentary on corruption, resistance, and community. The film won international awards and remains a beloved Colombian classic. 🎥 María Full of Grace (2004) Directed by Joshua Marston This gripping drama tells the story of María, a young woman who becomes a drug mule in a desperate attempt to escape poverty. Catalina Sandino Moreno’s performance earned her the Silver Bear for Best Actress in Berlin and an Academy Award nomination—the first ever for a Colombian actress. Let these stories enrich your trip – Colombia is a place best experienced with open eyes, ears, and heart. Got That Audiobook Queued Up for the Roadtrip? Click below to check out some curated picks for making life easier when traveling with (and without) small children. Visit GEAR UP For More Outstanding Travel Essentials Copyright © WS&T. All rights reserved.






